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About Rosinbole

  • Title
  • Birthday October 13

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Computers xD
  • Occupation


  • CPU
    I7 6700K
  • Motherboard
    ASUS STRIX z270i
  • RAM
    16 GB Trident Z RGB
  • GPU
  • Case
    Dan Cases A4-sfx v1
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 pro 512 GB
  • PSU
    Corsair SF600
  • Display(s)
    Dell U2715H, AOC 1080p
  • Cooling
    Asetek 545lc
  • Keyboard
    CM Storm Quickfire TK
  • Mouse
    Roccat Savu
  • Sound
    Logitech... Dunno
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

901 profile views
  1. Introduction Scratch built case specifications: 7.23L excluding raised sidepanels 8.97L including raised sidepanels 100% anodized CNC milled aluminum structure - main structure will be entirely 12mm panels - inside structure will be 3mm panels 2x 4mm thick tinted tempered glass panels Entirely assembled with metric countersunk- and metric thumb-screws Hardware specifications: Custom modded Asus X470-i motherboard AMD Ryzen 7 2700x CPU 2X8GB of 3GHz G.Skill TridentZ RGB Gigabyte GTX 1070 MINI ITX OC 8GB Samsung 512GB 950 PRO M.2 NVME SSD 450W G-unique Archdaemon + unlimited brick combo as power supply Watercooling loop: Alphacool Eisbaer LT solo Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 triple 80mm X-Flow Radiator (3x) Noiseblocker NB-BlacksilentPRO PCP 4-pin PWM 80x15mm fans Exclusively low profile koolance fittings Koolance QD3 quick disconnect fitting for filling, topping off, and draining Worry not, for the build log will soon begin! Thanks to Josh of NFC for lending me his beautiful skyslot design for this project!
  2. As many others have said, buying a cnc router without any knowledge at all might not be the best place to start. Personally I've had GREAT success in using fablabs/makerspaces around my country even though it often requires me to put off a full day and travel an hour or so each way. As some also have said, if you are not interested in putting in the hours to use a cnc youself, you can contract the work out. Some places will be more expensive than others, but if your tolerances (in dimensions, these dimension plus minus X amount) arent too small, you can get away with a fairly decent price. You might even be able to find someone on one of these forums willing to do such a job for you. Best of luck!
  3. I've chosen to focus on updating the forum post on smallformfactor.net/forum. Here's the link: https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/p-s-y-c-h-e-d-e-l-i-c.9532/
  4. Well... Ehm... First off, thank you so much for the compliment! I'm not done with the excel arc yet, but it's NOT cheap. We're probably talking hundreds of USD lol... I'll update this message once I'm done with the calculations. Another thing is that this case is custom built to house an EVGA GTX 1080 FTW card with a heatkiller IV waterblock on it. No other cards except for the 1070 version with the same waterblock will fit.
  5. Updates updates! And oh boy is this going to be one of the big ones. I've been doing A LOT of work since I started the thread. Both more obvious things, but also a lot of stuff behind the scenes. Last weekend, I took a trip down to my grandparents' house to get some work done in their shop. Mainly shortening screws and making a power button. There's a couple of reasons I chose to make the power button out of steel. One of the main reasons it to not waste any of my just-big-enough-chunk-of-aluminum-rod-to-construct-the-case-feet-out-of... Also, I'm not going to paint the feet of the case like I am with the power button, and aluminum doesn't rust like steel does, so making the power button out of steel to not waste any of the before mentioned aluminum rod made a lot of sence... Untill I discovered that I didn't have any more steel rod left and I had to turn the power button out of a solid cube of steel Oh well... Here's the steel cube mounted in my small hobby lathe. And here it is again a couple of nerve wrecking minutes later. I don't have any carbide tooling for my lathe, so I'm sad to report the loss of a much appreciated member of my HSS turning tools. It turned out good, though Some more work, and I was left with this. Pretty impressed by the finish these HSS tools left without active cooling! And now I have a power button! I painted it black with some matte black spray paint, but I don't have any pictures of that process. You'll just have to trust me on that one. For the next part, It's onto shortening screws. This turned out to be a bigger challenge than I'd thought initially, because I soon realised that I couldn't just put a screw into the lathe and start turning away... *facepalm*... Some very significant part of a countersunk screw gets in the way of that This is the solution I came up with! (demonstrated with a very not countersunk screw). All in all, I'm very pleased with the way these screws turned out. Some of you may have a much smarter solution to the problem, but this was the best solution I could come up with at the moment. Many hours later, this was the result: Now on to the CNC'ing! The first part of this project actually came to be by 3D printing. This is the piece which I've done the absolute most work on. I had to have a threaded hole very close to the edge of the print, so I printed it with a small rectangle cut out in one corner, and made a fitting replacement out of aluminum: This is the result of the 3D printed part with the aluminum thingie glued on. Now on to spray painting it! 1 hour later That actually went pretty well! I didn't sand it down to a smooth finish, and therefore, I didn't expect a smooth finish after spraypainted... I don't think you can say I was suprised when it came out like this... Oh well, It's more than good enough for a piece which isn't going to be seen. Here are all the 3D printed parts laying on my table. Don't you think we're done with the CNC'ing though. Now it's on to laser cutting! The main frame of the radiator tower with the dual 180mm rad inside is going to be made of 1.2mm steel sheet metal. Thanks to the fablab at Roskilde University in Denmark, I was able to laser cut these sheets as well as both all of the cosmetic and structural acrylic pieces for the radiator tower. What you see in this picture is the progress of the project to this day. I've gotten the Walnut for the wooden details on the case, the two big sheets of Acetal to make the bottom of each distribution plate have arrived, and mixed in with them are all the progress shown in this update. Something to be noted is that the first bit of milling in this project has occured! It's the very bottom right piece of acrylic. What you're seeing is the pump/res distrubution plate top which sits next to the motherboard. Oh yeah... This also arrived Best regards, Matias "rosinbole" Petersen.
  6. Like much else, psychedelics can be bad for both your health and your wallet. I'm sorry to inform you that this one certainly will be both for me So BEHOLD, my dear reader, this sure is going to be a wild ride. Specs: 5.505 liters in volume Built in pump and reservoir combo Full-size EVGA Geforce GTX 1080 FTW 2 custom distribution blocks AMD Ryzen 7 2700x External 360mm (dual 180mm) radiator 16 GB of G.skill Trident Z RGB Custom modded Asus x470i motherboard Samsung 512 GB 950 pro m.2 SSD G-unique 450w power system A little something about this project: First off: Since I did the rendering, I've made a couple of changes. Most importantly that I'm no longer going to make a custom monoblock for the x470i. The reason comes down to two things: Time and money. Making a custom monoblock is a huge investment of both, so the monoblock mockup which you see in the rendering won't be a reality in the finalized project... At least not for now Another QUITE important thing which I'd like to say about this project is that it's built to compete in Dreamhack's Winter 2018 modding contest in sweden (a couple of hours from where I live in Copenhagen). I can't really brag about this yet, though, because Dreamhack hasn't sent out letters of confirmation about who the chosen master class contestants are to those very same people. Enjoy!
  7. Hi guys! Long time no see, huh? Let me give you a bit of backstory: Not long after I completed my NZXT h440 mod (you can find it under build logs... I think it was called NZXT h440 elite), I sold the case to my younger brother for a bargain. Since I'd done a pretty good job of scrathing up the acrylic panel which I'd put on the case, I took it off before selling it to my brother. He's been happy with it ever since, but he recently asked me to make a new acrylic panel for him, so that's what I set out to do. The old acrylic panel was literally just a piece of acrylic which I'd screwed into some holes which I drilled and tapped in the side of the case, but I thought that I could do a better job this time... Don't know if I succeeded at that, but it's at least A LOT more user friendly now. This is the original sidepanel with a very large hole cut in it... I only left 25mm on each side, as that was how wide the double sided tape which I was gonna use was. Here is the sidepanel with the double sided tape on (it has green protective tape) And now with the acrylic mounted. I was a good brother and didn't peel the protective film off. My brother was kind enough to send me a picture of the sidepanel mounted... Aaand exactly what I feared would happen, had happened... I wasn't able to press out all of the air bubbles between the acrylic and the tape, even though it looked like I got pretty close with the film on... Anyway, he seemed happy with it. I hope that this was able to help someone. Feel free to ask any questions which come to mind, and have a great day!
  8. ...but why that old table? Everything else looks great