JonU

I guess he never specified that it had to be a good guess. Lol

There is one major problem I see right away and that is with the width. Server cases are designed to mount to a server rack with the width between the rails being 19 inches on center. 47cm is ~18.5 inches. Unless there is more space behind the cupboard face (which means removing the front of the cabinet), you would have to use custom cases. Also if you plan on having the graphics card installed vertically in the PCI slot like normal, it is generally recommended to use a 4u case so that you can use larger case fans. Technically, you could fit them into a 3u case, but it might limit you some on what cards can be used as well as the size of the fans. For reference 1u is 1.75 inches. A 4u case will be 7 inches (17.78cm) in height which with 4 cases would need a total of 28 inches (71.12 cm) at minimum. A 3u (5.25in or 13.335cm) case would bring the height requirement for four cases down to 53.34 cm. I think your best option would be to get some small HTPC style cases that sit horizontally and stack them. Even then you still may run into height limitations.

m.2 is a standard (kind of like PCIe slots). It originated with Next Generation Form Factor (NGFF) and if you do some digging you will find there are a few different form factors for the m.2. When you look at your m.2 SSDs, you may notice that it says the drive is m.2 2240 or 2280. The first two numbers denote the width of the card in mm, while the second two (sometime three) denote length in mm. m.2 drives can come in varying widths and lengths and still be in standard, although what your most likely to be using will be 22mm wide in one of three lengths: 40mm, 80mm, 110mm. If you're not sure what lengths the motherboard supports, you can find it on the specification list. This will also tell you how the m.2 slot interfaces with the rest of the components. Depending on how the manufacturer designed the board, it may use either a SATA port, up to PCIe 3.0 x4 lanes (i think there are a few that go even higher if you cough up the $$). This Article does a much better job explaining it than I can though.

I've been hearing about heat issues in the Node 202 in the research of been doing. Granted this is with higher TDP setups and I'm contemplating it for HTPC use. I also really like that Zaber case, but not sure if I have $200 to spend on a case for this project. I don't know much about the RVz02 to say one way or the other.

To answer the question of what is the best motheboard, you need to tell us what features you would like it to have. Any itx, mATX, ATX, or eATX board will support the components you listed. What size board do you want (itc, mATX, ATX, eATX)? How many PCIe slots do you want? Do you want support for m.2? If so, do you want SATA or PCIe m.2? Do you need wireless? how many SATA ports do you want? Does it need more than one NIC? Does it need bluetooth support? These are the kinds of questions you need to be asking yourself. Once you know what you want, you can use pcpartpicker.com to filter out motherboards that fit your wants and needs.

I would still argue that unless you are doing recordings for professional use, nobody other than a select few will notice. Even less if any assuming they are hearing it through ts or skype.

Chances are that unless you're using a balanced input (i.e. 1/4" TRS or XLR), the pre-amp on the motherboard isn't going to be the limiting factor in the microphone setup. 10kHz is way higher than the average human voice which typically falls somewhere between ~200Hz-4kHz. Unless your trying to get high quality recordings it's not really, going to be noticed in something like teamspeak or skype. It really isn't that hard to set the default playback device to your DAC if what you have the mic plugged into also provides an audio output. I currently use a Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 to plug my microphone into the computer and depending on what I'm doing, may use 1 of 3 different playback devices. It literally takes less than a minute to change what device is playing sound now that I've got the process down. If I were you (since i don't know your plans), instead of splitting the budget between a DAC and ADC; I would lump it all together and buy the best DAC I can get with that money, using the onboard mic jack.

@vetali If the owner of that shop really does by a dyno and thinks he will be able to undercut other tuners by offering cheaper tunes, I feel that he will be greatly disappointed. All it takes is one or two bad tunes and that dyno will just sit there and collect dust as word of mouth gets out that he does a crappy job at tuning cars. I would cut line and find a new place to work if it's at all possible.

You can put in a manual valve body. That is as close as you could get. That's what top fuel drag cars do. have three little levers and flick them forward in order as they blast down the track.

My opinion is as follows. The Hellcat should be the Hell Hound. if they made an high performance version that was AWD, that would be called the Hellcat. Reasoning for this: Dogs are rear wheel drive animals and cats are AWD animals .

Don't know why an audiophile would spend money on a quality pair of headphones just to plug them into a phone. While the headphones are important, relying on the DAC/amp in your phone to do a good enough job to make those headphones do what they can do is not the smartest thing to do. Why else do you think external DACs and Amps are so widely used by audiophiles? If I'm listening to music on my phone, give me the cheapest ear buds that get the job done. I've got better ways to reproduce the music than using my phone and it's built in 3.5mm jack.

The key to a good PSU is good voltage regulation and good ripple control. Being inefficient may cause you to spend more on the electricity bill and put more heat in the case, but it isn't going to cause problems to components otherwise. Article on Corsair's web site written by JonnyGuru: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2013/march/why-does-a-better-power-supply-mean-a-better-computer-experience

That blows

Just happened across this thread, here is are some pics of my current project when I first got it 4 years ago. Right now it's in the shop getting restored. In the four years I've had it; it has been in the shop a majority of the time as I slowly get the money for the shop to do the work. So far it's been stripped to a bare chassis, media blasted, rust removed, and it is currently primed and waiting for it's turn in the paint booth. I'm sticking with the original metallic blue paint and will be replacing the auto transmission with a 4 speed manual. The day I bought it, got the car and a truck bed full of parts for $2000. I've since sold off most of the spare parts and ended up only spending about $1200. The car had sat out in west Texas for 6 years before I got it, so there was a bit of work I did before getting it to the shop. I had to tear apart the carbs and get them cleaned since they were completely gummed up. The fuel tank had to be removed and cleaned of all of it's old gas that had turned into a black tar looking substance. The plugs were replaced along with the battery and once all that was done, the car started up on the second try. It ran great with no smoking or missing, which impressed me given how long it sat for. I'm hoping to have the car back early next year and I'll be sure to grab some pics next time I stop by the shop. I would have some, but I reset my phone and the pics I had taken at the shop weren't backed up anywhere.

This guy does pretty indepth reviews of power supplies, but it is probably easier to do a google search for the psu and adding the website at the end than combing through all the reviews on his site.