RenaKry

For future reference, the issue was the SSD. I swapped in another NVMe SSD of a different brand, a TeamGroup MP33, and the laptop can now successfully reboot without a “No Bootable Device” error. The Silicon Power SSD is in a different computer now and it is taking it well. I am seeing posts of Silicon Power SSDs giving other users a similar issue, so buyer beware that Silicon Power SSDs might be somewhat incompatible with your PC.

I have a laptop with an SSD that drops out after a restart, requiring me to power cycle in order to continue. I was wondering if there is a way to automate this process by having Windows always power cycle the computer after restarting, like a group or security policy that I can change. I am running Windows 11 Enterprise on a 1TB Silicon Power A60 in an Acer E5-576G. I am aware that NVMe SSDs are not officially supported on this laptop by Acer, but other than the aforementioned problem with the SSD dropping out upon restarting, Windows runs fine. It can also wake up from sleep and come out of hibernation just fine.

no, but that really depends on how close to the tv you plan on sitting

I do not dislike the new Macbook keyboards. I think it is a huge improvement over the butterfly keyboards they've used in the past. Apparently, the key travel on the current keyboards is 1mm. I would also like to add that a computer losing its ability to hibernate or sleep is, in my experience, almost always due to driver issues. It could also be incorrect BIOS settings, you should make sure S4 (hibernate) is enabled. As for drivers, another forum post recommended Snappy Driver Installer for installing and updating every conceivable driver available for your Windows computer.

TDP basically means by design, the CPU can put out a maximum of 130 watts of heat under full load with all of its limiters enabled. Overclocking will always exceed the TDP so you can expect it to put out even more heat than it was designed to, which necessitates a bigger cooler. Also, I agree that the CPU and motherboard combo is a very good value at $40CAD.

It seems that you haven't tried putting the same capacity sticks into the same channel, with 16GB in A and 8GB in B for example.

I used to run a 21:9 2560x1080 custom resolution on my big ass 16:9 1440p monitor to artificially increase my horizontal FOV.

If you are not using Bitlocker, which is a full drive encryption feature in Windows 10 Pro, you do not need to worry about the message your BIOS tells you about the recovery key.

As far as I know, any Intel wireless module will work with anything that has PCIe (plus USB for Bluetooth) and drivers for it. For example, I can buy an Intel AX200 right now and stick it in my Ryzen computer and I'll have Wi-Fi 6, just like that. Disclaimer: I don't have an AX200 but an 8260, which is Intel's last generation 802.11ac wireless module.

I am sure they mean the motherboard is indicating an error with the CPU. The OP can reseat the CPU and also inspect for missing or bent pins. Don't worry about reapplying new thermal paste for now until everything works. Also, I should mention that the 500 series chipsets do not support Zen 1 CPUs.

You may flip the switch on the back of the power supply to cut power to the system reasonably safely. Then you can go in and make sure that the power connector didn't detach from the motherboard and isn't wired incorrectly.

It is really all about priorities. Having the radiator in the front blowing freshly heated air into the case lends itself to higher GPU temperatures. The opposite would be true where the CPU would run a bit warmer if the radiator was exhausting hot air from inside the case that was cooked by the GPU, but to a lesser extent (based on my intuition anyways). If I can choose, I would go with radiator exhausting. If you can only have it at the front, it really isn't that big a deal, otherwise people wouldn't do it so often.

(The warning should only appear if your device is using an European ROM) Here is the thread you are quoting. Despite this, all of my American Android phones have the volume warning.

It is required by the EU for audio players (also applies to Android in the US) to limit volume to 85dB with a hard limit of 100dB. Without rooting, I am unaware of a universal method of disabling this warning. By the way, anything you plug into the headphone jack on an Android phone will trigger this warning, as it is obviously intended to be used with headphones.

Please post another screenshot of your MSI Afterburner window.

Click the Startup button (Windows icon with red border) on the left side of the window so that it isn't transparent. That is the toggle for applying overclock at startup. If you do NOT want to overclock on startup, simply disable "Start with Windows" in the settings or disable it in Task Manager.

You can change your power settings (Right click Windows button) to Balanced as opposed to High Performance to allow the CPU to throttle on idle.

I didn't dig too deeply, and this was on the first page of google when I looked up "10400f max tdp".

DisplayPort is the most ideal. I would save the HDMI ports for when I want to plug a console in for some reason. If you plan on using FreeSync, chances are you will need to use DP anyways. Addendum: Some monitors have FreeSync over HDMI. Do not buy these if you use Nvidia graphics, as Nvidia does not support G-Sync over HDMI. They will however work perfectly with AMD graphics.

I am not optimistic. The included heatsink is a very thin chunk of aluminum, and the 10400F is already pushing 65w. You can however simply use the included heatsink until you can afford an aftermarket heatsink. According to one source, the 10400F can top out at 134w. Through personal testing, an ancient Hyper 212 Evo can cool up to 155w continuously before thermally throttling, so any cheap aftermarket 120mm tower cooler should suffice. Disclaimer: I have never tested an Intel cooler. I don't know what the cooling capacity of it is, but it should be at least 65w, but less than 95w.

If you want a boxy looking case like the H510, I am using a Corsair 4000D Airflow. It has the same front I/O as the H510 Elite (meaning you would need the same exact adapters to use), but includes two non-RGB fans as opposed to the Elite. It is available in Black or White, just like the H510. If you must have that sweet RGB, you can either buy them separately or go up to the 4000X which has 3 front 120mm RGB fans, controller included. Otherwise, I'd go on PCPartPicker and look at other cases. It is after all an aesthetic choice and personal preference. The link already has the ATX filter enabled, so anything you see there should fit.

A 3600 should cap out at 65w, but with PBO I can get it up to about 100w. 28w is very low for a 3600. Check your power settings in Windows to make sure you are not on power saver mode. (Right click Windows or Win+X, then Power Options)

Cases with bad airflow are valid aesthetic choices, but to answer your question, you would need to either adapt the Type-C to Type-A to USB 2.0*, or Type-C to Type-A and Type-A to USB 2.0 (Amazon US links). Either way, you will need to use at least two different adapters. If you do not have a use for USB Type-C, I would suggest the former. If you do want to use Type-C, then do the latter. If you don't know, I would recommend the former. Keywords to use when shopping for these adapter are "USB Front Panel Adapter". *Note that I cannot find an adapter that adapts Type-C directly to USB 2.0, but you can simply plug adapters into other adapters and it should work just fine, sans full bandwidth. Addendum: If you have no use for Type-C at all, you can simply leave it unplugged and forgo the adapters altogether.

Yes and yes, however, the case has two USB connectors, one Type-A (of which your motherboard has) and one Type-C (of which your motherboard does not have). You would have to use adapters to have every USB port on the case to function, and at least one of them will not run at full speed.

I am not aware of any Corsair air coolers that have iCue-enabled RGB fans packed in, so the next best thing is to buy a heatsink, ditch the included fan, and put your own Corsair RGB fan on it. I hear the Noctua NH-U12S Redux is the new hot stuff these days, so I would start from there. Though, it would be a shame to toss a perfectly good Noctua fan...