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About nelsonpong

  • Title
  • Birthday 1999-03-19

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Mother's Basement
  • Interests
    Anime tiddies.
  • Biography
  • Occupation


  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-5820K 4.4 Ghz
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Fatal1ty X99 Professional Gaming i7
  • RAM
    Avexir Core Red 3x8GB 24GB (Channel A busted)
  • GPU
    EVGA Nvidia Geforce GTX 1060 SC
  • Case
    Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow Edition
  • Storage
    Samsung 960 EVO 500GB
  • PSU
    Corsair TX850
  • Display(s)
    Pixio PX329
  • Cooling
    Deepcool Captain 360 EX (dying)
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 Orion Red (O-ring Mod)
  • Mouse
    Glorious Model O
  • Sound
    ASUS Xonar Essence STX II
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro October 2018 (delayed)
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

1,197 profile views
  1. To all owners of this obscure keyboard, I am looking for the software that was included with the Creative Prodikeys PC-MIDI keyboard. Creative seems to have discontinued all support for it and that includes downloads for drivers for it. I cannot seem to find any reputable source for drivers for this particular piece of hardware. If you can source the original drivers for this keyboard, I would highly appreciate if you would share it here or in private messages. Thank you.
  2. Yes, but you should still see a watermark on the bottom right corner of your display.
  3. If it is available in your region, I would consider a Logitech G203 Prodigy, also known as the G102. It is a right-handed ambidextrous-style 5-button mouse, similar to all the mice shown in your screenshot. It is twice as expensive as the Cougar Minos X2, but the sensor in the G203 and G102 will outperform any other mouse in the budget range. If not, the Cougar Minos X2 is likely the best out of the four. I will always recommend against Redragon mice due to their poor sensor performance, however, their keyboards are very acceptable and price competitive.
  4. The main reason to do this is to upgrade the CPU from the Merom Core 2 Duo to the Penryn Core 2 Duo, which is a required piece of hardware to run macOS later than El Capitan. The older Merom does not support SSE4, which the Penryn does and is needed to run Sierra and higher, albeit unofficially. I am not entirely sure if everything is physically forward compatible with later revisions of the logic board or motherboard, which I am interested in attempting to retrofit into an older but seemingly identical chassis. Are there any possible screw holes that may not align with the chassis or a new display connector or anything that may make this endeavor an overly ambitious one? I'll also need to replace the wireless card inside the machine, but that can be sourced later once I find out that what I want to do with this MacBook Pro is even possible.
  5. I do not feel any vibration when touching the block under load, but it doesn't seem to get hot either. I've had this for probably 2 or 3 years now, and I don't think coolant will just evaporate out of a sealed closed loop system. I guess my water pump really is toast. Now, where is my old Hyper 212 Evo?
  6. IANAL, but if they dropped driver support on their cards just like that, I'd be surprised there isn't a class action lawsuit filed against them by now. Rest easy, it should be good with support for several years.
  7. I have a Deepcool Captain 360EX (the second generation red one with the longer braided hoses, not the RGB or plastic hose) cooling an overclocked i7-5820k at 1.35vcore and 1.8vin. The temps when the kit was new were good and kept my CPU well below 85C (the thermal limit that I set in the BIOS myself) under FPU loads using AIDA64 but now AIDA64 tells me the CPU is throttling between 10-20%, with CPU speeds dropping from 4.4GHz to as low as 4.0GHz according to HWMonitor. As soon as the stress test was ended, the temperature shot back down to the high-50s. This is an unrealistic load for this computer but my main concern was looking at my motherboard's POST display that was set to read CPU temps while it was idling and it was sitting steadily in the mid-50s, which is what led me to stress my computer to confirm my suspicions. For a water-cooled computer, mid-50s on idle with adaptive voltage is unacceptable, and I would like to know which part of the cooling system has failed. My money is on the pump, but something about it doesn't sit right with me. If the pump was dead, the heat would be stuck in the cold plate and the computer would crash from overheating, yet it stayed just above the hard thermal limit of 86C the whole time I was stressing the CPU with superficial throttling. I don't believe the radiator is clogged with dust nor do I think it is that hot in the room, but I could be wrong. Anyways, what do you guys think? Is it time for me to move on to custom loops or go back to good-ol' air?
  8. For around your budget of $150, I would highly recommend a wire mesh office chair. Something like a Staples Hyken or clone will likely be more comfortable than any gaming chair at the same price range. I have one myself and no more back pain or swamp ass, it's a win-win.
  9. I would personally disassemble the laptop to evacuate the inside, only if I knew how to piece it all back together afterward. Ants will not eat your laptop from the inside out but can cause a short circuit and fry something.
  10. If your issue is only Bluetooth and your laptop model does not offer Bluetooth out of the factory, it will never give you Bluetooth support over the wireless card. It is a hardware limitation with your laptop, I am afraid.
  11. This is a stopgap solution, but you may want to consider using ThrottleStop to prevent your CPU from throttling if it is, and set the Windows power plan to High Performance if you have not tried it already. Typically, when a HyperThreaded CPU is topping out at 50%, the software in question is skipping every other thread to make use of the entire core. But, evidently, your problem lies in the irregular conservative clock speeds, which is why I recommend ThrottleStop. You may also want to tell us what motherboard you are using so we can identify if it is a power delivery issue.
  12. In my experience updating BIOS, you should unzip all of the contents of the archive to the root of the USB drive, unless instructed otherwise.
  13. I could take your word on it if you own some yourself, or I can look at the Newegg prices and rating and see it doesn't really hold a candle to the Noctua redux fans, which are cheaper and are higher quality. If I want to go really cheap, I'll consider the Arctic fans. The Akasa AK-FN058 doesn't really have any advantages over the two brands as far as I can tell.
  14. Your best bet is the same exact model of RAM to retain XMP. But you do not need matching RAM for your computer to function and use all installed memory. Your BIOS will auto-configure your RAM to run at the speed of the slowest RAM installed, but as I mentioned, you can force the RAM to run at a specific clock speed, essentially overclocking them, meaning potentially less stability. You can just get one 8GB stick of RAM that closely matches your existing kit and put it in a free slot and it should in theory work just fine. Plug and play.
  15. Since all RAM have to run at the same speed and timing, it will disable XMP if you use mismatched modules, but you should be able to easily force them to run at a certain speed manually. In my experience, I was able to run triple channel mode on my quad channel motherboard by having a 2+1+1 config, all matching memory but with different capacities per channel, but your mileage may vary.