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Best of luck to you. It's gotta be a software issue

Maybe another usb port from another cluster (cpu, chipset, frontpanel)? I dunno. Motherboards and windows can be weird sometimes.

I believe the Tesoro Gram Spectrum Agile series qualify as low profile mechanical. It has media control, lighting and macros. My only problem with these is that they don't use cherry switches.

Is the firmware up to date? mine is at 103.1.10

Out of these: Coolermaster or Corsair. I've had CM mechanical keyboards for around 4 years now. They are indestructible (I managed to tear off a capacitor from the back of the pcb (with a strong punch), but it was easy to fix lol).

The 502 has more buttons which are very useful in everything, gaming and work (5 more inputs compare to 403). Its scroll wheel has a little rattle side to side. It has very nice, crisp scroll clicks tho. Easy to click, too. I try to avoid long scrolling sprees with it because it feels metallic and more fragile than the rubbery scroll wheels of most other mice. That's why infinity scroll is there! It is easier to lift, thanks to the design of the right side. You can see this on the bottom photo on logitech's site. The bottom edge goes under the right button -kind of-, so your fingers can't slip off when lifting the mouse. All the extra buttons are perfectly positioned for me. They are easy to use. (my hand is about 18x10cm LxW) I don't use the weights, however they seem to be with quite tight tolerances, I'd say it's so that the magnetic cover isn't needed to hold them inside. (I got the 502 after returning a 403 because of the scroll wheel. I base my knowledge of the 403 based on the one I returned and the 603, which I own.) The 403 is lighter, and both of its main buttons are concave, which assist in lifting the mouse. The overall shape isn't "lifting friendly". The rubber coating on it isn't as helpful as it is on the 502 either. The scroll wheel feels weird on these (403 and 603), it has a sizable dead zone between each scroll click. The clicks are quite rubbery, soft and gradual, tho it is perfectly noticeable when a scroll step is registered. This dead zone and softness make it a bit harder to click in. This is why I returned the 403. (The 603 is very similar, but I got used to it because I had to have a lightspeed mouse.) The side buttons are easy to find, much larger and not as sharp as on the 502. I don't prefer either, they're all comfortable to me. The trap door on the 403 is a smart solution, though the single weight provides less customizability. At least the left button is concave on both, which is absolutely neccesary for precision imo. I use both with palm or fingertip grip, depending on the situation. The cable is good on both, though it's not amazingly flexible. It tends to hold its shape. I've been rubbing the 502's cable on the edge of my desk for about 2 years now, and it did fray a little though it's only superficial, aesthetic. Both scroll wheels are somewhat flawed, but totally acceptable and usable. Performance-wise both are excellent. Very short liftoff distance, and perfect tracking. Crisp button clicks on the main and secondary buttons as well. I ended up with both (kind of), and I like to switch 'em up from time to time. Though the wireless nature of the 603 is a godsend. I believe the 403 and 603 are quite close in price. Check them out, maybe? If I had to pick one tho, I'd choose the 502. It's overall a more serious piece.

Do you have the latest LGS? Maybe clean the registry (with something like wise registry cleaner. Just don't "defragment" your registry if you have an ssd). In my system lgs always stops after a while with a G603 in low power mode. I have like 50 profiles, and the mentioned 1 problem..

What happens without the LGS? Have you tried it in a pc that has never had LGS?

I have a G603 and it's great. Practically anything with the logitech hero/lightspeed sensor is great.

Not even in/on the HDD cage?

I'd say 3 in the front, 1 rear, 1 or 2 top. I have a define arc midi r2 which has similar possibilities (except its bottom slot is useful). I tried practically everything with that. The 3 front are obvious. They look good, and they create airflow all over the case. In my opinion leaving the rear spot empty looks worse than a rear+top combo, especially if only 1 of them would be lit. It also helps with horizontal airflow, pulling the air all the way above the mobo (possibly causing better vrm cooling). A fan in the middle top slot is quite useless, because it sucks the fresh air from the top front fan and removes it right away. I suggest slowing it down so it creates negligible flow compared to the others (starting voltage or pwm, and leaving it there).

Stronger airflow from the front could help that. I found in my case that if there isn't any horizontal airflow over the graphics card a hot air pocket can form there. Gpu temp dropped 10C in my inwin 303 after I installed a fan that creates horizontal airflow. The 303 has vertical airflow design, though it doesn't quite work. I had a strong exhaust in the rear (NB eloop), and the card's temp kept rising, while the exhausted air wasn't getting warmer. Creating horizontal airflow was the solution. Put another fan on the back of the radiator (as pull) so air from it flows over the card. That should boost the air just enough to clear the hot air pocket.

I'd suggest trying to clean the heatsink and the fan. Use compressed air, or yourself. Preferably remove the bottom of the laptop if you are comfortable with that.

If possible add an intake fan too. Otherwise you might have to run that exhaust at 100% (in order to avoid temps above 70C). I presume you don't want to turn the pc into a hair dryer.

The only LED fans I've tried are bitfenix spectre led 120mm pwms. They are moderately quiet, max speed on the ones I have is around 1700 rpm. Up until 850 rpm they are quite silent, and they have pretty good pressure. Also pretty cheap. I'd say they are bearable up to 1300rpm. If you have the cash and might compromise on the led, I recommend the noiseblocker eloops. These cost about 3 times as much as the spectres, but there's a reason. They are silent up to 1100rpm, while the spectres up to 850. So that's a lot more airflow and pressure at the same noise level. (fyi I tried both models as an exhaust, in the same case, and that's how I found these numbers for comparison) I use 1 eloop to exhaust the air from 3 spectres in my build (2 of these are pushing through a 30mm radiator). I think under load they max out at 1300 each. The eloop is much quieter like that.

Download the latest driver installer from nvidia, then use display driver uninstaller (DDU) to remove the previous driver, and after the restart, install the new driver. Also make sure you set the resolution to match the monitor's resolution.

For 60hz the i5 could work. Personally I wouldn't disgrace the 980ti with an i3. For 144hz, or running anything beside the game, I think an i7 or ryzen would be better. I can't "just play my games", I always have something open in the background, youtube or the music player. If you don't do this, the i5 should work fine. I often see my 7700k at 5G work 80-100% with the gtx 980 at 1450mhz also at 100% in Battlefield 1 (for example), pushing 120-145 fps.

I bought this Acer XF270HBbmiiprzx a few weeks ago and I love it. It is TN, so its colors suck, and you have to set the angle and height just right, otherwise the bottom is brighter than the top (or viceversa). Also be aware that you might see the pixels ingame on a 27" 1080p monitor about 55-60cm away (at least I can). I sit 65cm away from the screen, this far it's fine. 144hz is great. I recommend Acer because their shop and customer support are amazing in my country, and I love both things I bought from them. A swift 3 laptop and this monitor.

That's a neat cooler card you made. Case airflow has to be plentiful as well. Circulating the same hot air isn't useful. And there should be airflow above the pcb, too. If you have at least 2 front fans, it should be fine, though their draft over the card should be strong enough to feel with your hands. Without such airflow a hot air pocket can form above the card even if there's a strong exhaust. I think a bottom case fan would be damn near necessary. Alternatively a strong fan in the lower front position. Isn't there space for the pumpres in/on the HDD cage? In my fractal design arc midi r2 I put the pumpres onto the hdd cage at first. Then I used a 120mm pump bracket to install the combo horizontally onto the upper front fan. You can mount it horizontally, you just have to be careful not to run the pump dry. Here's my current system. InWin 303. It is supposed to have vertical airflow, though the upper compartment is too restrictive. You can see the fan on the right that creates the airflow over the graphics card. It lowered the gpu core temp by 10C by removing the hot air pocket, and aiding the Eloop in the back.

Comfort is a big part of headsets, so if at all possible, visit a store where you could try them on. I don't know if you have media markt there. Maybe an amazing smaller shop?

What happens with other headphones? Did you try switching up the connections? If the headphones are not high quality (something cheap-o chinese), their frequency range might be too narrow for the sound card. If there is a setting for impedance in the sound card's driver, try playing around with that.

As a start, plug in the fans to the cpu fan headers, and the pump into the chassis header (cha_fan). I assume there are RGB connectors on all these components, but leave them dangling. If the fans spin and you can feel/hear the pump working, take a look at the instructions on how to set up the lighting.

The Phoenix could be easier to install as well. You wouldn't have to uninstall the cpu block should you want to relocate the radiator, or change the fans on it, etc. Though it has the pump on the rad, so you need more space under or above the fan slot. Even though they are both 140mm, the kraken can fit to a more confined fan slot. (Judging by the pictures)

Fans to the CPU header with a splitter, and the pump onto any other header. Or directly to the psu. The most beneficial thing to contol is a fan. The pump can go 70-100% all the time.

I'd try reddit and ASUS support. I watched the OC3D video on these, but I don't remember him mentioning this problem. Have you set up all the applications for the cooler? Is there something in the uefi concerning onboard usb 2? This is weird tho, rog mobo and rog cooler, and it doesn't work out of the box?! what