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If customer support won't RMA it, and 40$ to get a replacement is out of the budget, I'd highly recommend disassembling it and cleaning with picks and maybe Electrical Contact Cleaner (**not** for eyes). That would also allow you to eyeball the actual rotary encoder they're using which you could then look up on Digikey or whatever and then you can use your PCB rework station to replace it.

Correct that is all the police are going to do. Again, regardless of any police work that follow, that piece of paper is important, as its a paper trail document. Reporting to the police does NOT have the goal of getting them involved, no one is asking them to get involved. It has the goal of getting that piece of paper.

As for bypassing work restrictions? Mmmmm, that's *really* close to breaking forum rules, but if you WFH, you should be able to point your router at a pi-hole. If you're at work? You'd either have to VPN or hotspot->VPN which likely wouldn't work well

download occt and run the memory test

Have you tried MyNoise? I've been supporting them for nearly a decade https://mynoise.net/NoiseMachines/whiteNoiseGenerator.php

because Also, a USB DAC allows OP to switch without extra button presses Further, in your scenario, OP is buying not one but two extra devices, and more specialized devices at that (which pushes up the cost/quality ratio), plus having to deal with an entire phantom screen. All that as opposed to just buying a single device run of the mill device which will do everything they need Fragglerock but I hate AVRs.... My whole home audio system now consists of a pair of 6 zone dumb stereo amps and that's it. They are daisy chained and take the output from a usb DAC (I had to use that so I would stop hearing the HTPC's CPU/GPU think through the speakers). So nice, so smooth, so easy

Yes, I did install all of the correct drivers including the chipset, and I've just checked the bios, it is up-to-date Yes, I have HWInfo, I have been monitoring things with that. Example: I booted the system this morning and opened 2 windows of Chrome with 5 tabs on each with Chrome in efficiency mode. Plus VLC player playing a 720 P video file. (This is with an additional 120 mm fan blowing directly on the case through the air vents and the system is sitting on a cooling plate.) Minimum CPU temperature was 64°C with a maximum of 96.1°C. Minimum core clock was 1.36 MHz with a maximum of 4.1 MHz, averaging 3.1 MHz. iGPU minimum temperature was 60°C and a maximum of 74°C, minimum clock 200 MHz, maximum clock 1.4 MHz. The thing that concerned me the most was the Vcore, the minimum was 0.85 V but the maximum was 1.555 V which if I'm not mistaken is significantly higher than recommended, my understanding was it shouldn't be above 1.45 V. I will take a look at the tuning utility to see if that can help but it looks like, unless I am mistaken, that It's getting too much voltage and causing thermal throttling

The only moving parts are those fans, and they might have a manufacturing defect or bad bearing. Try unplugging them one at a time to narrow down which one's noisy.

Where did that chart come from? I hope that coincides with the M5 SoC, or I'm really going to be in a tough spot.

Yeah there have been some software tidbits with specific Oneplus OS'es, but nothing really all that bad. All three brands are made by the same division and tend to be great. I personally prefer Realme, due to the simplicity of OS. But that's not to say Oppo or Oneplus are any worse either.

Yeah, at this point it's a bit of mess around and find out. Though, before doing that, DO make a backup of your registry so if something goes sideways you can revert it all

No, they will ne announced only on the day of to make it harder to bunker for the bonus day

Though, that sounds like dying RAM. RAM's cheap right now, it wouldn't hurt to try a new kit. And come to think of it, most RAM comes with lifetime warranty. You could ask about an RMA

Hello there! My air cooler (model DX-9100D, bought in 2021) makes a weird noise every time I turn the computer on, but the noise stops if I simply shut down Windows and start it again. Sometimes, I have to shut it down 2 times in order for the noise to stop. I recorded a video of the noise so you can hear exactly what it sounds like. I also recorded a video of what it sounds like after the noise stops, so you can compare. Any help whatsoever would be immensely appreciated. Thank you! noise sample.mp4 after noise stops.mp4

Oppo makes OnePlus.

Generally speaking this depends on the configuration. If your IT is competent enough to capture all DNS requests then you are out luck. You should talk to them though.

I'm not sure if it's a silver bullet, but you could try to install "WinAero Tweaker" Try 'disable telemetry' (data collection for Windows) and 'Ads and unwanted apps' (and some settings with video reference as below) It is supposed for Windows Store ads, but it might be applicable for the new ads pushed from Windows 11 OS

No no, OnePlus phone are actually good, I'm talking about Oppo, Xiaomi, Realme, not OP

Where's the high-end PC? Which motherboard? Which RAM and which frequency? Which CPU cooling? Latest motherboard Bios? Latest Chipset drivers downloaded from AMD? Monitored the GPU usage? The 5900X is comparable to a 5600X when it comes to gaming, and that's a low-end CPU when it comes to trying to achieve high frame rates. It probably is a bottleneck, just like it was with my 6950XT.

I just got the Creality fabric enclosure for my Ender 3v2 to prevent failures to upcoming long 3d prints and I wonder if I must upgrade the cooling to the electronics of the printer. I use pla+ and abs at most so the temps shouldn't be too high to cause damage I hope. (I can't just take them out and leave them aside as I live in a small apartment and my girlfriend is already mad that I take a lot of space).

Yes, 7e10 is the latest portfolios in Exos family, built on the same 5-plate air-filled model. In RAID setups, drives can be replaced with another with the exact same capacity, no matter when they were manufactured nor whether they came from the exact same series/lineup/brand. I built a RAID 1 array years ago with one drive from Seagate and another from Toshiba, and it worked without issues.

You need to verify which fan. It would suck to replace the wrong one. Figure out if you have the skills and tools to replace it. Look online for a vendor that sells it; don't be fooled, Google does not have all the answers. There are a lot of vendors online that seem to be invisible.

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