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I am building a gaming PC for which i have selected the following components:-

1. Ryzen 5 1600 OC at 3.9 GHz

2. Cooler Master MasterAir MA410M TUF

3. MSI B450 Tomahawk

4. Cooler Master Lite 5 RGB with stock case fans

5. Seagate Barracuda 1 TB Hard Disk

6. Nvidia Geforce GTX Galax 1080 EX OC @ 1911MHz

7. Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 MHz 2*8GB 

8. My Full HD 100 Hz TV

9. Arctic 5 Silver Thermal Paste

10. Iron Man Funko POP figure

11. Corsair VS 550W PSU

Please tell me how will these components go together, the OS will be Win 8.1(Recovery from my Laptop)

And also comment which combo will be better, R5 2600x with 1070 Ti FE OR R5 1600 with 1080 EXOC.

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5 minutes ago, suteerth1 said:

Cooler Master MasterAir MA410M TUF

Cooler is overpriced AF and is unlikely to do better than the $25 options

 

The case has no airflow 100% do not buy, get a Fractal Design Focus G instead.


You can install windows 10 for free without a key and it will work fine.

 

What's your monitor resolution/refresh rate and what's your budget/country?

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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12 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

Cooler is overpriced AF and is unlikely to do better than the $25 options

 

The case has no airflow 100% do not buy, get a Fractal Design Focus G instead.


You can install windows 10 for free without a key and it will work fine.

 

What's your monitor resolution/refresh rate and what's your budget/country?

The cooler and its price seem fair, its an RGB cooler with a built in thermal sensor complete with thermal RGB effects and likely the pipes are better than what could be found on a $25 solution, albeit probably not super noticeable. I would suggest a Be Quiet! Pure Rock for less than $40

 

As for the case, I agree that airflow might be an issue especially for hardware as powerful as what OP plans to install

 

And as for Windows 10, you can do this with any version of Windows (albeit for windows 7 you would need to spoof a key to continue installation and I can't remember if the same holds true for windows 8) but the user would not be able to personalize their system, I don't think Windows 10 has a Grace period like Windows 7 and 8 do. It's doable, in fact I do it myself for some systems, and as long as OP doesn't mind the default accents and the generic windows wallpaper then its completely fine

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

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1 minute ago, suteerth1 said:

India's my country and everything is under my budget, ill change the case though to Cooler Master Box K500L, however  which cpu and gpu combo is better?

Personally I would go for the 2600X with the 1070 Ti. However unless you have plans for those extra two cores, then the 1600X and 1080 would be better

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

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Last time i checked you cant salvage womdows keys from other devices unless it is specifically a non-oem key. A laptop more or less allways runs with an OEM-key that is tied to the motherboard.

 

Also windows 8 support is dropping off

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3 minutes ago, suteerth1 said:

It is only a 1600 not the one with X, i am really confused between the two, which one should i go for, please explain with reasons.

Higher base and boost clock

Ryzen 5 1600 base/boost: 3.2GHz/3.6GHz

Ryzen 5 1600x base/boost: 3.6GHz/4.0GHz

 

Higher TDP

R5 1600: 65W

R5 1600X: 95W

 

1600X does not come with a cooler whereas 1600X does (which should not be a concern if you already plan to get a third party cooler)

 

Other than that no real difference, 1600X will perform better though of course

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

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1 minute ago, Vengeance1020 said:

Higher base and boost clock

Ryzen 5 1600 base/boost: 3.2GHz/3.6GHz

Ryzen 5 1600x base/boost: 3.6GHz/4.0GHz

 

Higher TDP

R5 1600: 65W

R5 1600X: 95W

 

1600X does not come with a cooler whereas 1600X does (which should not be a concern if you already plan to get a third party cooler)

 

Other than that no real difference, 1600X will perform better though of course

I have a choice between a 1600 Non X and a 2600X(Not 1600X)

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1 minute ago, suteerth1 said:

I have an MS account to which my windows is linked, as long as i will use my account on my new PC, i shouldnt run into any problems right?

As long as the previous system had a microsoft account linked to the license key, then you could run activation troubleshooter on the new system and select that you have made a significant hardware change and then select your old system from the list to reactivate

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

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Just now, Vengeance1020 said:

As long as the previous system had a microsoft account linked to the license key, then you could run activation troubleshooter on the new system and select that you have made a significant hardware change and then select your old system from the list to reactivate

Exactly what ill do! Thx!

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1 minute ago, suteerth1 said:

I have a choice between a 1600 Non X and a 2600X(Not 1600X)

2600X base/boost: 3.6GHz/4.2GHz

TDP: 95W

Comes with Wraith Spire

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

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Just now, suteerth1 said:

So are u telling me to go with the 2600X and 1070 Ti Founder's Edition?

depending on if you want CPU performance or need more GPU performance. Most games place more load on the GPU or can be level. You might be better off with the 1080 and 1600 and OC the 1600

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

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6 minutes ago, suteerth1 said:

I have an MS account to which my windows is linked, as long as i will use my account on my new PC, i shouldnt run into any problems right?

You windows is linked to the account, yes. But due to OEM-key being tied to the mobo it wont reqognise the new system. And will ask for a new key. If it was a regular non-OEM key there wouldnt be an issue, but it isnt. If you reinstalled windows on the laptop it would reqognise the key once you logged into windows

 

A win 10 OEM key can be had for 25$ from kinguin, or you can run without a key.

Edited by GoldenLag
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So what to do then?

1 minute ago, GoldenLag said:

You windows is linked to the account, yes. But due to OEM-key being tied to the mobo it wont reqognise the new system. And will ask for a new key. If it was a regular non-OEM key there wouldnt be an issue, but it isnt. If you reinstalled windows on the laptop it would reqognise the key once you logged into windows

 

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Just now, suteerth1 said:

So what to do then?

 

You would need to install windows without a key or buy a key. Windows will function without the key but you won't be able to personalize after the grace period ends, WIndows 8 and 7 will black the wallpaper and Windows 10 to my knowledge does not have a grace period

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

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36 minutes ago, Vengeance1020 said:

The cooler and its price seem fair, its an RGB cooler with a built in thermal sensor complete with thermal RGB effects and likely the pipes are better than what could be found on a $25 solution

I'm pretty sure they stuck RGB on a hyper 212 type design.

 

35 minutes ago, suteerth1 said:

Cooler Master Box K500L

At least it's better than nothing for airflow, should look for just a plain masterbox 5 black(has mesh) though, it's more open.

For the price of that cooler you could buy something that's actually better/larger.

 

and what's your monitor? if it's only 1080p 60hz you don't need that tier of GPU, an RX 570/580 or 1060 6GB would be fine for even 1080p 144hz gaming.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119352&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Cases+(Computer+Cases+-+ATX+Form)-_-N82E16811119352&gclid=CjwKCAjw_IPcBRAjEiwAl44QkZTMsxqphmAqPjUI4Tll0I2ABqbRomNZrv0F4qZjBagX7jtmAbwxqBoCISwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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1 minute ago, suteerth1 said:

So what to do then?

 

Download Win 10 without a key. Then get a key from kinguin for 25$. If you dont have the money now you can wait untill you can afford it as you can run windows without a key (though you get some inconvenienses

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But i will be using custom wallpapers.

1 minute ago, Vengeance1020 said:

 

You would need to install windows without a key or buy a key. Windows will function without the key but you won't be able to personalize after the grace period ends, WIndows 8 and 7 will black the wallpaper and Windows 10 to my knowledge does not have a grace period

 

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1 minute ago, suteerth1 said:

But i will be using custom wallpapers.

 

You can change the background in windows 10 without issue, you just get a small watermark and can't auto-hide/resize the toolbar.

I edit my posts a lot, Twitter is @LordStreetguru just don't ask PC questions there mostly...
 

Spoiler

 

What is your budget/country for your new PC?

 

what monitor resolution/refresh rate?

 

What games or other software do you need to run?

 

 

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1 minute ago, Streetguru said:

I'm pretty sure they stuck RGB on a hyper 212 type design.

 

At least it's better than nothing for airflow, should look for just a plain masterbox 5 black(has mesh) though, it's more open.

For the price of that cooler you could buy something that's actually better/larger.

 

and what's your monitor? if it's only 1080p 60hz you don't need that tier of GPU, an RX 570/580 or 1060 6GB would be fine for even 1080p 144hz gaming.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119352&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Cases+(Computer+Cases+-+ATX+Form)-_-N82E16811119352&gclid=CjwKCAjw_IPcBRAjEiwAl44QkZTMsxqphmAqPjUI4Tll0I2ABqbRomNZrv0F4qZjBagX7jtmAbwxqBoCISwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I will use my TV which is 1080P Full HD and has gaming mode along with 120Hz of refresh rate

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2 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

I'm pretty sure they stuck RGB on a hyper 212 type design.

There is a red variant

Main system "Kethlon":

Core i7 3820 - Intel Desktop Board DX79TO - 32GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM Dual channel - EVGA GTX 1050 Ti SSC - EVGA 550 B3 - PNY 120GB SSD (boot),WD Blue 1TB (Mass Storage)

See profile for full specs

 

Primary Laptop "Vengeance":

HP HDX16 1370US - Intel Core2Duo P8700 - 4GB DDR2 800MHz RAM Samsung - HGST 1TB 7200RPM (Windows 7, Linux, MacOS 10.11.6) - Nvidia GT 130M 1GB DDR2

 

Downed Laptop "Xarasky":

MacBookPro3,1 - Core2Duo T7700 - 4GB DDR2 RAM 667MHz - Nvidia 8600M GT 256MB VRAM - 640GB HDD (MacOS and Windows)

 

Testing laptop #1 "Leonard":

HP 15 F387WM - AMD A8 7410 APU - 8GB DDR3 Samsung RAM 1600MHz - AMD Radeon R5 graphics (1GB VRAM partitioned out of physical RAM) - 500GB WD Blue mobile drive

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