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Random Restarts

St_Vitruvius
By St_Vitruvius
in Troubleshooting
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Hi

 

I've been trying to troubleshoot and fix this issue for a week now and I'm in need of help.

 

Short story is:

It reboots at random, different games, apps, situations.

 

I've managed to play ex. Rocket League, Starcraft 2, Killing Floor 2 for hours without issues, then suddenly it restarts. Sometimes minutes into the game, sometimes when leaving the game.

 

I'm out of ideas and need a bit of help. Step-by-step, a diagnostics tool to download or whatever gets the job done.

The long story:

After running without any issues in the fall and over the winter, I had the system dismantled to exchange a cracked reservoir. After filling and loop testing for almost 48 hours using an old PSU outside the case, I had it running flawlessly for a week or so.

 

Then on Saturday night, Feb. 24th, the screen suddenly, without any warning or error message, turned black - as if the PC was off. The monitor went into "Standby".

 

I believed it to a crash on the pc and hit the restart button. And then all hell broke loose: Boot - Monitor still in standby - hit the restart - repeat. Booting up in Safety Mode I was told nothing could be done due to what sounded like an MBR error. I then formatted and reinstalled windows.

 

The restart is like hitting the main power switch - you sometimes hear a small "click" and the the whole thing turns off and restarts.

 

Since then, I've had random restarts all over, both under load, when idle and during boot, and have tried the following:

  • Reseating 24-pin power cable.
  • A clean reinstall on a freshly formatted drive.
  • Memory test - using Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool (No errors reported)
  • Pulling the log from Windows returns an "error code 41" - which tells me nothing.
  • Disabling "automatic restart" to get a BSOD doesn't give me anything - the PC still turns off without displaying an error.
  • Running FURMARK to test if GPU Temp was the issue - a 40 min run resulted in a temp. of ~55 *c or so
  • Cinnebench runs fine. Highest temp. seen on the CPU is 70 *C  EDIT: 63 *C on hottest core. As of 042315ZFEB18.
  • Heaven Benchmark crashes immediately when starting the test.

 

My initial theory was a driver issue - i don't believe that anymore, as I've done a complete clean reinstall

Then I thought it might a faulty PSU cable - But that doesn't make sense, as it has been running perfectly for almost 4 months

 

I'm left with: 

Faulty PSU - but why then does it happen at random and not ALWAYS when under load? 

Faulty mobo - It could be a broken capacitor somewhere on the mobo - but how to test it?

 

Does Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Sincerely

St_Vitruvius

 

System Specs:
OS: Win 10 Home, v. 1709, build 16299.248
Mobo: GA-X58A-UD9, BIOS version F6
CPU: Intel i7-980X
GPU: GTX 780 Ti, EVGA Hydro Copper Dual Classified
RAM: 24 GB, 2 sets of Corsair Vengeance Black DDR3 1600Mhz 3x4GB (CMZ12GX3M3A1600C9)
Soundcard: ASUS Phoebus
USB 3.0 Card: SST-EC04-E
PSU: 1000 W Seasonic Platinum
HHD: 2 x SEAGATE Barracuda XT 7200.12 2TBHDD SATA, RAID0
SSD: 2 x INTEL Postville 80GB SATA SSD 2,5", RAID0


Fan Control compoments connected via USB: (Restart also happens when not connected to mobo)
Aquaero 6 LT
Aquaero 5 LT
Farbwerk
Aquacomputer D5 Pump, Aquabus version
All connected via Splitty7 USB HUB
EDIT:
All cables are custom

RADs for CPU: 480 mm Alphacool NexXxoS XT45

RADs for GPU: 240 mm Alphacool NexXxoS XT45, 480 mm + 360 mm Alphacool NexXxoS ST30

 

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3 minutes ago, ToastedVivid said:

That seems like an overheating problem. Il assume you have a custom loop on your cpu only and if everything looks fine then make sure your pump is OK. I'm also assuming that these restarts are like sudden black screens and not a windows BSOD.

I thought as well first. But the copper tubes doesn't get too hot to touch and the temps reported by HardwareMonitor is no way near 85 *C.

And it sometimes happen on the first boot - when the system is cold.

 

I'm using a dual custom loop - Pumps are both running - I'm seeing coolant flowing through both RES.

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23 minutes ago, ToastedVivid said:

That seems like an overheating problem. Il assume you have a custom loop on your cpu only and if everything looks fine then make sure your pump is OK. I'm also assuming that these restarts are like sudden black screens and not a windows BSOD.

Assuming it's overheating, how could I best check it? Prime, IntelBurn Test or something else? What monitoring software could I use to create a txt file or similar containing timestamps and temp. readings?

 

Besides draining, pulling off the block, reapplying thermal paste, filling up the loop?

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20 hours ago, St_Vitruvius said:

Assuming it's overheating, how could I best check it? Prime, IntelBurn Test or something else? What monitoring software could I use to create a txt file or similar containing timestamps and temp. readings?

 

Besides draining, pulling off the block, reapplying thermal paste, filling up the loop?

IF it is overheating which it may not be, then AIDA 64 is great for testing it. You can run a stress test on your CPU and get temperatures for it that are very accurate. I would love to know what parts of your system are actually in the loop just so I have more of n idea what its like.

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5 hours ago, ToastedVivid said:

IF it is overheating which it may not be, then AIDA 64 is great for testing it. You can run a stress test on your CPU and get temperatures for it that are very accurate. I would love to know what parts of your system are actually in the loop just so I have more of n idea what its like.

Well.. I'm not sure it's temps either.. But it's worth a shot - if it works, it's one of the cheaper fixes.. And besides.. I think maybe a a processor temp after running Cinnebench 2 times in a row of 63 *C on a custom loop, with a 480 mm RAD, sounds a bit high. When all components are on stock settings - no OC.. Or is that just me?

The loops are configured like this:
CPU Loop:

Bitspower Z-tube res and pump -> EK Waterblock for North/South Bridge -> EK Monarch Waterblock for RAM -> EK Supremacy Evo CPU Block ->  EK Waterblock for Mobo VRAM -> 480 mm RAD, 45 mm thick -> Res

GPU Loop: 

Bitspower Z-tube res and pump -> 280 mm RAD, 45 mm thick -> 360 mm RAD, 30 mm thick -> 480 mm RAD, 30 mm thick -> EK Full Cover Block for GPU -> Res

 

All radiators have NF-F12 fans

 

EDIT:
I've now spoken with Intel and run their Processor Diagnostics Tool.. It passed. 
I'm waiting for response from Gigabyte to see if they have a program I can diagnose the Mobo with.

I'm trying to get hold of a PSU to test if that's the issue. My backup plan is to visit my best friend, who I gave my old mobo (ga-x58a-ud7) along with a spare 1K W PSU, 12 GB of 2255 MHz Kingston RAM and a cheap CPU I got from ebay. Then we'll start testing EVERYTHING the good old fashion way: one thing at a  time!

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Posted

https://gyazo.com/0239c05f3ec3c2a06c197304ceecf920

 

I looked on Intel ARK to see the max temperature for the 980x and that is it, so if your hitting 63 degrees then you should probably be fine, mabye at worst you will thermal throttle.

I read over your issue again to refresh my mind so il tell you how I understand it so if im wrong you can tell me. So you were just on your computer and it turned off, with your monitor saying no signal and the PC wouldn't turn back on again.

If you want to eliminate the PSU then you can buy a PSU tester really cheaply that checks the voltages from 24 pin and 8 pin. The motherboard is a bit trickier to blame, but if it was a capacitor or something that blew up because of an overclock or whatever then take the heatsink off around the CPU and try and turn it on and just feel if any get really hot. They will more than likely be your prime suspect but if none get especially hot then also install something that can check the temperatures of the capacitors to see if they are overheating and causing any restarts. You can dodge this a bit by putting a case fan right against the capacitors to make sure they are cooled properly and see how it goes.

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11 hours ago, ToastedVivid said:

 

I looked on Intel ARK to see the max temperature for the 980x and that is it, so if your hitting 63 degrees then you should probably be fine, mabye at worst you will thermal throttle.

I've just finished a 2.5 hour Prime95 stress test. 

 

Temps reached 80 *C on the hottest core, running the fans at 25 %. 

 

After a bit Fan curve tweaking I had the temps stable at 70 *C on 80 % fan power. 

 

It ran perfectly without throtling at any time.. 

 

This is consistent with what I've found others reporting on overcklockers and Tom's.. They report throtling when hitting 100 *C.. Not that I'd care to have my cpu running that high, though.. 

 

I've not had any crashes to today.. Last one was yesterday, at 052015ZFEB18, on first boot of the day.. 

 

What would be a good tool to test the PSU? I've never heard of those before.. 

 

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Update: 
I've been trying to turn the pc on today, but it has been completely unable to power on! 

After hitting the power switch, the fans, leds and pumps begin to spin. But after app. ½ sec. it shuts off EDIT: - then turns on-off, on off.. ect

 

Trying to clear the cmos doesn't do anything.

 

I'm now leaning mostly towards this being a faulty motherboard.

 

Different posts on Toms ect. mentions reseating GPU and RAM. But as they haven't been moved I do not expect these to be the reason.

 

It just makes no sense that hardware that have been assembled and working should suddenly become loose..

 

Way ahead: 
Buy a PSU tester and check PSU, just to make sure
Reseat EVERYTHING, just to make sure

Edited by St_Vitruvius
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I am Having the same issue. At first it I would press the power button, and lights would flash on, then off. Pushing the power button would do nothing, but holding the power button for 5 sec, would shut the system off. You would hear the PSU click, like it was turned off. ??? I reseated the Memory...nothing, took out the CMOS battery.....nothing, so My friend suggested that I unplug the PSU and hold the power button for 30 sec. it didn't work, so I plugged the PSU back in, and tried it, then It booted up to repair the CMOS or BIOS (I forget which one). Now it will turn on, but it still randomly goes dark, like a crash with no errors. I'm getting the same errors in event viewer, but nothing helpful.

Curently I am updating drivers to see if that is the issue, but I highly doubt it.

Info:

Computer:
      Computer Type                                     ACPI x64-based PC
      Operating System                                  Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate
      OS Service Pack                                   Service Pack 1 Motherboard:
      CPU Type                                             QuadCore Intel Core i7-4770K, 3700 MHz (37 x 100)
      Motherboard Name                                  Gigabyte GA-Z87X-HD3  (2 PCI, 3 PCI-E x1, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Video, Gigabit LAN)
      Motherboard Chipset                               Intel Lynx Point Z87, Intel Haswell
     System Memory    32650 MB  (DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM)
     DIMM1: PNY 8GBH2X04F1AA28-15    8 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM  (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz)  (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz)  (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz)           (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz)  (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz)  (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)
     DIMM2: PNY 8GBH2X04F1AA28-15    8 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM  (9-9-9-24 @ 800 MHz)  (8-8-8-22 @ 711 MHz)  (7-7-7-19 @ 622 MHz)  (6-6-6-         16 @ 533 MHz)
     DIMM3: PNY 8GBH2X04F1AA28-15    8 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM  (11-11-11-28 @ 800 MHz)  (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz)  (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz)          (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz)  (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz)  (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)
    DIMM4: PNY 8GBH2X04F1AA28-15    8 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM  (9-9-9-24 @ 800 MHz)  (8-8-8-22 @ 711 MHz)  (7-7-7-19 @ 622 MHz)  (6-6-6-        16 @ 533 MHz)

      BIOS Type                                              AMI (08/25/2014)
      Communication Port                                Communications Port (COM1)
      Communication Port                                Printer Port (LPT1)

    Display:
      Video Adapter                                     Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600  (1 GB)
      Video Adapter                                     Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600  (1 GB)
      Video Adapter                                     Intel(R) HD Graphics 4600  (1 GB)
      Video Adapter                                     NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080  (8 GB)
      Video Adapter                                     NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080  (8 GB)
      Video Adapter                                     NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080  (8 GB)
      Video Adapter                                     NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080  (8 GB)
      3D Accelerator                                    Intel HD Graphics 4600
      3D Accelerator                                    nVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080
      Monitor                                           Generic PnP Monitor [NoDB]

DMI:
      DMI BIOS Vendor                                   American Megatrends Inc.
      DMI BIOS Version                                  F4
      DMI System Manufacturer                           Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd.
      DMI System Product                                Z87X-HD3
      DMI System UUID                                   7402D403-35048005-4E061907-00080009
      DMI Motherboard Manufacturer                      Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd.
      DMI Motherboard Product                           Z87X-HD3
      DMI Motherboard Version                           x.x
      DMI Chassis Manufacturer                          Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd.
      DMI Chassis Type                                  Desktop Case

Restarting PC for now, to see if the driver updates help.. there were 14/15 installed.

 

Update:

Installed new memory, unplugged everything and made sure everything (fans, cpu, drives etc) were plugged in. reseated GPU, Memory changed, took out soundcard (not needed) go to boot,  lights flash and nothing...several times later, I reset the bios again and it will still not boot. I turned the switch off on the PSU (left plug in) and hit the power button, and it fired up.

Edited by BourbonCowboy
Updated system information
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  • 5 weeks later...
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On 6/3/2018 at 8:59 AM, ToastedVivid said:

If you want to eliminate the PSU then you can buy a PSU tester really cheaply that checks the voltages from 24 pin and 8 pin. 

 

So, finally got time in between exams and everything to test the PSU.

 

I got this tester, from Digiflex: https://www.fruugo.co.uk/digiflex-atx-power-supply-tester-20-24-pin-sata-lcd-diagnosticere-psu/p-12693999-25960769?language=da

 

Unfortunately, it came without ANY instructions.. 

 

I've tried putting in the 24-pin along with the 8 pin connectors for the mobo. Can anyone help me interpret the output from the tester?

 

 

 

 

DSC_0456.JPG

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2 hours ago, St_Vitruvius said:

 

So, finally got time in between exams and everything to test the PSU.

 

I got this tester, from Digiflex: https://www.fruugo.co.uk/digiflex-atx-power-supply-tester-20-24-pin-sata-lcd-diagnosticere-psu/p-12693999-25960769?language=da

 

Unfortunately, it came without ANY instructions.. 

 

I've tried putting in the 24-pin along with the 8 pin connectors for the mobo. Can anyone help me interpret the output from the tester?

 

 

 

 

DSC_0456.JPG

Not a lot of us know how to diagnose PSU's with a tester.

I have no idea on that subject, but didn't you say you were testing your loop with an older power supply?

Why not just use that old power supply to test the whole system?

If it works fine on that old power supply than there's something wrong with the new one.

If you have two PSUs, there's no need of buying a tester unless they old one couldn't handle the load of the new system... although it'll be good to have once you figure the thing out I guess.

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1 hour ago, stateofpsychosis said:

Why not just use that old power supply to test the whole system?

If it works fine on that old power supply than there's something wrong with the new one.

If you have two PSUs, there's no need of buying a tester unless they old one couldn't handle the load of the new system..

 

That's not an option.. My old PSU is VERY old, from around 1998 or so.. The main power cable is only 20 pins, not 24.. 

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33 minutes ago, St_Vitruvius said:

 

That's not an option.. My old PSU is VERY old, from around 1998 or so.. The main power cable is only 20 pins, not 24.. 

Oh, okay then.. definitely don't do that.

Hopefully the person that suggested to buy that power supply tester comments again with a bit of an explanation. If not, google is your friend or you could start another post about that specifically.

Also, make sure you quoted them so that they see your question ;)

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  • 4 months later...
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So.. Finally an update! And some progress!

 

I got my hands on my best friends PC, built from spare parts of my own - so same RAM type and CPU socket.

 

Considering I kept getting af mobo post error code "C1" - error on the RAM - I had it narrowed down to be the cause of either faulty RAM or a defekt on the RAM controller (or BIOS).

 

Testing with known working RAM still got me nowhere.. 

 

After trying out EVERYTHING I could imagine I was finally ready to fork out ~£350 for a replacement mobo (used, mind you..) as I believed that was the problem.

 

Then I got the idea of contacting a tech-wiz and a friend hooked me up. 

 

He swapped in his PSU, and BAM! The pc booted to the Windows Login Screen! And as soon as we use my PSU, the pc restarts.

 

After a bit of mingling around now believe it's a fault on the PSU. 

 

Next up: Waiting for a reply from Seasonic Customer Support..

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Posted

I Have similar problems to this i get no warning signs before the restarts happen and they happen pretty randomly. sometimes almost instantly after start up while just browsing the web other times it is in the middle of playing a game like wow for example. and it happens so fast off and on again that my screen doesn't have time to go into power mode. i tried to turn off the emergency reboot to try to see if that would get me an error message, but that have just seemed to make the restarts happen less frequently. i am using a custom built pc from a pc building company.

 

     
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
 

ASUS DVD Writer SDRW-08D2S-U LITE

USB 2.0, 8x DVD±R, 8x DVD±R DL, 24x CD-R, Power2Go 7, Hvit, Retail, 

 

i have added 2*8gb to this and and am using windows 10. i will try to take a look to see if the ram is properly attached and stuff when i have the time. by the way i have no idea how i can check if there is a bios update.

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On 6/9/2018 at 9:48 PM, Jevnaker said:

I Have similar problems to this i get no warning signs before the restarts happen and they happen pretty randomly. sometimes almost instantly after start up while just browsing the web other times it is in the middle of playing a game like wow for example. and it happens so fast off and on again that my screen doesn't have time to go into power mode. 

This is the exact same symptom I'm having.. 

 

First off, look at the post error indicators - two rectangular digital diodes flashing a bunch of numbers and letters. Does it halt at one particular error code? Look in the manual for your mobo to see what that code means for your board.. 

 

Try to get your hands on spare parts, or even better a full working pc with the same cpu architecture. Then slowly put one piece from your rig into the working pc and check each time if it works. That way you're narrowing your search.. It takes a while though.. 

 

I would suggest stating with the Psu, since that (so far - I'm still testing to make sure) seems to be the culprit in my case.. Next I'd check the ram for compatibility issues w mobo and defects, then force resetting the bios by holding in the power button for  ~5 sec(iirc - again check the manual or Google..) edit: We ended up going back one version of the bios - now the pc runs using a different Psu than mine.. 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted
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Time for another update... and a LOT more head scratching..

 

We REALLY thought the PSU was at fault.. It booted fine, only restarted when we told it to do etc.. 

 

Then we took out my RAM and put in a friends PC to figure out why his would only boot with 4 of 6 (and not with all 6) RAM slots filled.. And then his PC began acting strange as well..

 

We finally gave up trying to figure out what was the cause of the issue and I ended up contacting a PC repair shop and ending up paying to have professionals help me out.

 

They spent two days working on both my friends PC and mine, but in the end, they gave up - They could only give me the same diagnose as I came up with myself: Either faulty mobo, CPU or RAM.. or a combination.. (I had to pay ~£120 for that..)

 

So what to do now.. 

 

I'm thinking about getting a brand new x58 iTX mobo so I can test my RAM and CPU, if they're working. I can get that board for ~£60. 

 

If it turns out my CPU and ram is working in that board - then I know it's a dead mobo and I'll be happy to buy a used one for ~£350/$455. 

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