Replacement (need help)

[Nexqs]

Hey guys,

First time posting here, hope im doing good with rules etc... let me know if im not. Sorry for my bad english btw.

So i have a "old" pc :

       i7 2600k

       Zalman watercooled solution

      16 Gb of ram

      1080 GTX ASUS OC

      256 Go SSD

      800 W power supply

And the thing is that i keep crashing randomly (kernel power) i tried so many things found on internet, reinstall 10 times w10... and it keep crashing... RIP

(im tired with all thoses crashes multiples times like 6 - 10 times during 4h sessions).

 

So i want to replace my pc : asking you because im no longer in the new techs and stuffs.
I have arround 1800$ (complete pc with case, i7 preferable). I play  : Fortnite, PUBG, BF1...

Thx in advance for all the help guys !

 

[FuzzyLogic]

First of all, don't reinstall Windows 10 times if the problem doesn't fix itself.

 

Anyways, would a system with an i7 8700k and a Z370 motherboard be good? You can put in 16GB of DDR4 RAM and maybe a 1080 if you can find one at a sane price.

[stealth80]

No need to replace the GPU. Can you test the PSU in another system? Cause carrying that across (if its a good model) will make a better use of your budget

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor  ($339.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($147.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($189.39 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($224.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($199.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($59.79 @ OutletPC)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case  ($86.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($97.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer - Predator XB241YU 23.8" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor  ($423.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1769.41
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-02-20 17:05 EST-0500

 

You may not need Case/PSU, but includes a 1440P Gsync monitor aswell

[Nexqs]

Thx for the answers that seems like a very good config and i love the case !  I have a Corsair RM 850x PSU is that a good one ? Ill keep the 1080 as you said i think its quite enough for my usage.

 

And when i said 10 times reinstalling its a bit exagerated what i meant is that i tried to resolve to issue  from everything i found on internet about (kernel power). Maybe you can oriente me in a section that can solve my problem for over a year would be awesome !

[SliceT]

10 hours ago, stealth80 said:

No need to replace the GPU. Can you test the PSU in another system? Cause carrying that across (if its a good model) will make a better use of your budget

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor  ($339.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($147.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($189.39 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($224.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($199.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($59.79 @ OutletPC)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case  ($86.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($97.88 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer - Predator XB241YU 23.8" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor  ($423.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1769.41
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-02-20 17:05 EST-0500

 

You may not need Case/PSU, but includes a 1440P Gsync monitor aswell

 

 

Dont think he needs such over kill PSU, 600w quality PSU would do.

If he overclocks, I would recommend the Z370 Taichi instead. 

[stealth80]

12 hours ago, Nexqs said:

Thx for the answers that seems like a very good config and i love the case !  I have a Corsair RM 850x PSU is that a good one ? Ill keep the 1080 as you said i think its quite enough for my usage.

 

And when i said 10 times reinstalling its a bit exagerated what i meant is that i tried to resolve to issue  from everything i found on internet about (kernel power). Maybe you can oriente me in a section that can solve my problem for over a year would be awesome !

Yes that's a good PSU, just test it first, would be annoying to have all this arrive and then find out it was the PSU

 

10 hours ago, SliceT said:

 

 

Dont think he needs such over kill PSU, 600w quality PSU would do.

If he overclocks, I would recommend the Z370 Taichi instead. 

You think? He has a 850w now, yes 600w would be fine I agree, but it doesn't hurt to have more headroom in case of future SLI - I have a 1000w (was SLI) but mainly cause it was white haha 

[brob]

4 hours ago, stealth80 said:

Yes that's a good PSU, just test it first, would be annoying to have all this arrive and then find out it was the PSU

 

You think? He has a 850w now, yes 600w would be fine I agree, but it doesn't hurt to have more headroom in case of future SLI - I have a 1000w (was SLI) but mainly cause it was white haha 

 

Definitely try to keep the RM850 psu if it tests good.

 

It actually can hurt to have a way over capacity psu. The 80+ Bronze, Gold, and Platinum envelopes do not specify efficiency below 20% of capacity. Some psu, especially bronze units can be very inefficient outside the envelope. As a result an average gaming desktop is going to spend a fair bit of time close to the edge or outside the efficiency envelope. (An average gaming system with a GTX 1080 Ti has a max draw around 475W. This means that except for gaming the system is likely going to be drawing under 200W. Even when gaming, draw is likely rarely if ever going to go over 360W.)

 

This would not be enough of a reason in my mind to discard a perfectly good high-end psu. But it should impact the choice when a new psu is being considered.

 

[stealth80]

7 hours ago, brob said:

 

Definitely try to keep the RM850 psu if it tests good.

 

It actually can hurt to have a way over capacity psu. The 80+ Bronze, Gold, and Platinum envelopes do not specify efficiency below 20% of capacity. Some psu, especially bronze units can be very inefficient outside the envelope. As a result an average gaming desktop is going to spend a fair bit of time close to the edge or outside the efficiency envelope. (An average gaming system with a GTX 1080 Ti has a max draw around 475W. This means that except for gaming the system is likely going to be drawing under 200W. Even when gaming, draw is likely rarely if ever going to go over 360W.)

 

This would not be enough of a reason in my mind to discard a perfectly good high-end psu. But it should impact the choice when a new psu is being considered.

 

I don't disagree, but I always advise to buy with SLI/CF in mind when it comes to PSU's and motherboards (if the budget allows) - People may have zero intention of using SLI, but things change and it would be pretty annoying to have to replace the PSU if you make the decision to grab an additional GPU down the line. And yes whilst max efficiency is at 80+, there is still an efficiency curve from 0 - 100% load. It may not be as efficient at lower loads vs 80%+, but it is still consuming less power that it is in that band, to be honest its a bit of a "red herring" when companies state the 80%+ efficiency thing, yes it is the most efficient there, but it doesn't mean it consumes more power outside that bracket (I'm not saying you're suggesting this) 

[SliceT]

18 hours ago, stealth80 said:

Yes that's a good PSU, just test it first, would be annoying to have all this arrive and then find out it was the PSU

 

You think? He has a 850w now, yes 600w would be fine I agree, but it doesn't hurt to have more headroom in case of future SLI - I have a 1000w (was SLI) but mainly cause it was white haha 

650W is even enough for SLI.

Check this video:

 

[stealth80]

4 hours ago, SliceT said:

650W is even enough for SLI.

Check this video:

 

Depends on the cards, CPU, water cooling etc. Not as simple as "650w is enough" 

 

1080SLI

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_1080_2_way_sli_review,4.html

 

They recommend 750w, not to say 650w wont work, but we want it in the 80 - 90% (ish depending on bronze/gold etc) power band for efficiency 

 

https://www.kitguru.net/components/graphic-cards/zardon/msi-gtx-1080-gaming-x-8g-rgb-sli-review/29/

 

400w draw here

 

https://www.techspot.com/review/1195-palit-geforce-gtx-1080-sli/page4.html

 

500w peak draw, they recommend 600 - 700w PSU here and that's on a 6700k @ 4.5hgz 

 

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/intel-coffee-lake-i7-8700k-cpu,review-34037-12.html

 

5.0ghz 8700k consumes 130w on its own

 

 

You are right a 650w would work, but it's cutting it fine imo for SLI, perfectly fine for a single card set up 

[brob]

@stealth80

 

The general trend is away from SLI. If one seriously expects to add a second gpu in a reasonably short period of time it makes sense to go with an 850W (GTX 1080) or 1000W (GTX 1080 Ti) psu. Otherwise it is simply falling into the "future proof" trap. 

 

[stealth80]

4 minutes ago, brob said:

@stealth80

 

The general trend is away from SLI. If one seriously expects to add a second gpu in a reasonably short period of time it makes sense to go with an 850W (GTX 1080) or 1000W (GTX 1080 Ti) psu. Otherwise it is simply falling into the "future proof" trap. 

 

.....I know it is, my point is the OP already has an 850w PSU, If it was me, I wouldn't wanna drop to a 650w from a 850w having already had it, OP bought 850w for a reason. I'm not disputing that 600w is perfectly fine for a single system, but if budget allows id squeeze in a 750w (were talking what $20 - 30?). I'm not saying sacrifice dual channel for the sake of an 750w PSU just in case you decide to SLI. Put it this way, I wouldn't want to spend say $90 on a 600w PSU thinking i wont SLI and then 8 months later, decide to SLI and have to spend $110 on 750w PSU in order to supply, purely to save $20 8 months previous. 

I made this mistake (sort of - I already had the HX620 from a previous build) when I built my previous system, and went SLI the following year and had to buy a new PSU