Jump to content

CPU cooler upgrade question

VaPaL
Go to solution Solved by iRileyx,

Noctua are one of the biggest companies when it comes to air cooling, so its safe to presume that they'll provide(rather, sell) mounting brackets for any new sockets if needed.
 

I also wouldn't push 1.45v let alone 1.5v or anything above, if you're having to push that high voltage you've lost the silicon lottery. It'll also lower the lifespan by quite a few years depending how often you run it at that voltage and not to mention at 1.5volts the temperatures will be stupid high, even with that Noctua cooler.

I current have a Xigmatek Dark Knight II CPU cooler and I'm capable of running my i5-6600k @4,7GHz 1,35v within 85°C while during a stress test with AIDA64 with every box checked. With Prime95 I get 100°C and some thermal throttling.

image.jpeg.df638e83f1a740106e08306d4f7b486d.jpeg

I tried 4,8GHz 1,40v but the system were unstable and while it run I got higher temps (100°C on AIDA64).

I'm want to upgrade to a Noctua NH-D15. I found tests showing temperatures 10°C lower on the Noctua NH-D14 than the Xigmatek Dark Knight Night Hawk, so I should expect similar results.

 

My questions are:

-I plan to replace my CPU in 2019/2020, what are the odds of the Noctua been compatible with the next socket? I know that nobody knows the exact answer, but what should a expect?

-If I was lucky with my CPU, maybe I can go to 4,8GHz 1,45V with the Noctua, but, giving sufficient cooling, can I go over 1,5V safely? if I can maitain my temps lower than 100°C, any voltage is safe?

 

Thanks a lot!

 

 

MoBo                           ASUS TUF GAMING X570 Plus/Br
CPU                             AMD Ryzen 5 3600x
CPU Cooler                 AMD Wraith Spire
Memory                       2x Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 3200MHz C16
SSD                             Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
SSD                             Kingston SSDNow V300 120GB
HDD                            Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200RPM
Video Card                  EVGA nVidia GeForce RTX 2070 Super KO Gaming
Case                           Corsair Carbide 600Q
PSU                            Corsair CX750M
Optical Drive               ASUS DVD RW
OS                              Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Keyboard                    Corsair K70 LUX Cherry MX Brown
Mouse                         Corsair Sabre RGB
Speakers                     JBL Peebles
Monitor                        LG 23MP55HQ 1080P 60Hz 5ms 23"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

The higher the voltage the more harmful for cpu. So i wouldnt run a cpu at 1.5v for long.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would not recommend changing the cooler and spending that much (NH-D15 is not that cheap) to get a few MHz more. 

I'd rather focus on changing the thermal paste to some better, improving the airflow inside the case and maybe even delid the CPU. 

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Noctua are one of the biggest companies when it comes to air cooling, so its safe to presume that they'll provide(rather, sell) mounting brackets for any new sockets if needed.
 

I also wouldn't push 1.45v let alone 1.5v or anything above, if you're having to push that high voltage you've lost the silicon lottery. It'll also lower the lifespan by quite a few years depending how often you run it at that voltage and not to mention at 1.5volts the temperatures will be stupid high, even with that Noctua cooler.

PC - CPU Ryzen 5 1600 - GPU Power Color Radeon 5700XT- Motherboard Gigabyte GA-AB350 Gaming - RAM 16GB Corsair Vengeance RGB - Storage 525GB Crucial MX300 SSD + 120GB Kingston SSD   PSU Corsair CX750M - Cooling Stock - Case White NZXT S340

 

Peripherals - Mouse Logitech G502 Wireless - Keyboard Logitech G915 TKL  Headset Razer Kraken Pro V2's - Displays 2x Acer 24" GF246(1080p, 75hz, Freesync) Steering Wheel & Pedals Logitech G29 & Shifter

 

         

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty sure 1.4/1.5 volts is in LN2 territory. If you need to push the voltage that high, you lost the silicone lottery. Putting the voltage that high will also shorten the life of your CPU

PC Specs:

CPU: Intel i9 12900K

CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro H150i Elite Capellix

Mother Board: MSI z690 carbon WiFi

RAM: TeamSport Elite DDR5 2x16 4800mhz

Storage: 2TB Samsung 970 Plus NVMe, 240 SanDisk SSD Plus, Crucial MX300 750GB SSD

GPU: Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 1080 

Case: Corsair Crystal 460X

PSU: Cosrair RM850X 80+ Gold

OS: Windows 11 Home

Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU 27" 1440p @ 165hz

Keyboard: Razer Black Widow Chroma

Mouse: Logitech G502

Sound: Sony MDR 1000x Headphones, Blue Snowball Microphone

 

Laptop Specs:

Gigabyte Aorus 15G

CPU: Intel i7 10875H

RAM: 16gb DDR4

Storage: 512gb NVMe, 1TB Crucial MX300 SATA SSD

GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070 Max-Q

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I see, I will keep my OC as it stands then. Thanks for the input!

About the Noctua, I plan to also upgrade my case fans from the 2 included 140 fansto 2 Corsair ML140, but the upgrade to Noctua is intended to also be a life lasting upgrade that will handle every CPU I throw at it, make my CPU run on more confortable temps (now that improve OC is outo of question)

MoBo                           ASUS TUF GAMING X570 Plus/Br
CPU                             AMD Ryzen 5 3600x
CPU Cooler                 AMD Wraith Spire
Memory                       2x Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 3200MHz C16
SSD                             Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
SSD                             Kingston SSDNow V300 120GB
HDD                            Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200RPM
Video Card                  EVGA nVidia GeForce RTX 2070 Super KO Gaming
Case                           Corsair Carbide 600Q
PSU                            Corsair CX750M
Optical Drive               ASUS DVD RW
OS                              Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Keyboard                    Corsair K70 LUX Cherry MX Brown
Mouse                         Corsair Sabre RGB
Speakers                     JBL Peebles
Monitor                        LG 23MP55HQ 1080P 60Hz 5ms 23"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Using a great thermal paste compared to a good one gives a couple degrees lower temperature. For example, switching Arctic Cooling MX-4 with Cooler Master MasterGel Maker (nano) reduces temperatures on average by about 2°C.

Upgrading from a regular thermal paste to a great one might give about 10°C depending on the pastes compared. I've seen a bad paste (Spire Blue Frost) compared to a decent one (MX-4) give a thermal difference of about 15°C but that was in a laptop.

 

Replacing a "regular" fan of a CPU tower cooler with a fan with better pressure results also in a couple degrees lower temperatures. Going with a push-pull fan configuration on the cooler can decrease the temperatures even lower or might help keep the sound (noise) levels lower. Two 15dBA fans working together as push-pull might offer the same temperatures as a single 21 dBA fan but at much lower sound levels.

 

Delidding the CPU (and voiding the warranty) might decrease the temperatures for about ~10 degrees under load.

 

Going with a stronger cooler costs a lot. Fitting such a (huge) cooler into the case requires special care (the case should be wide enough) etc.

Consider all options. Sometimes cooling the VRM additionally (with a small fan) can also lower the CPU temperatures by 5-10 degrees.

 

Which thermal paste are you using? Have you tried using a better fan on the cooler you have? How about 1-2 additional case fans?

 

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Using a great thermal paste compared to a good one gives a couple degrees lower temperature. For example, switching Arctic Cooling MX-4 with Cooler Master MasterGel Maker (nano) reduces temperatures on average by about 2°C.

Upgrading from a regular thermal paste to a great one might give about 10°C depending on the pastes compared. I've seen a bad paste (Spire Blue Frost) compared to a decent one (MX-4) give a thermal difference of about 15°C but that was in a laptop.

 

Replacing a "regular" fan of a CPU tower cooler with a fan with better pressure results also in a couple degrees lower temperatures. Going with a push-pull fan configuration on the cooler can decrease the temperatures even lower or might help keep the sound (noise) levels lower. Two 15dBA fans working together as push-pull might offer the same temperatures as a single 21 dBA fan but at much lower sound levels.

 

Delidding the CPU (and voiding the warranty) might decrease the temperatures for about ~10 degrees under load.

 

Going with a stronger cooler costs a lot. Fitting such a (huge) cooler into the case requires special care (the case should be wide enough) etc.

Consider all options. Sometimes cooling the VRM additionally (with a small fan) can also lower the CPU temperatures by 5-10 degrees.

 

Which thermal paste are you using? Have you tried using a better fan on the cooler you have? How about 1-2 additional case fans?

 

My thermal paste is the Xigmatek PTI-G3606 (https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xigmatek-pti-g3606-thermal-grease-3g-th-000-xg.html) it's not the best one, but looks like a inbetween good and great. Yes, my plan for 2018 is cooling upgrades, my case (Corsair 600q) came with 3 Corsair AF140, I'm planing on buying more 2 ML140, but I think I'll keep 4 fans total on my case, (2 in and 2 out) cause I can't think in a good wat to put 3 in and 2 out and I would like to use neutral to positive case pressure.

It's hard to add one more fan to the CPU cooler due to its shape, the way the fan mounts is by using some elastic band that you can see in the picture and there's not much space left fore another, but I may try to put my spare fan into it, will see. But it will be sketchy.

 

The 600q is a big case, so a larger heat sink will fit for sure.

About delidding I'm not sure. I want to do, but I've never done and I'm not planning to buy a new CPU the next year (nor could I afford it without a serious changing in my planing). And there's nowhere here that I know that does it, not near or that I can't trust. But I don't know, I want to do, but I'm afraid of messing things up.

MoBo                           ASUS TUF GAMING X570 Plus/Br
CPU                             AMD Ryzen 5 3600x
CPU Cooler                 AMD Wraith Spire
Memory                       2x Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 3200MHz C16
SSD                             Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
SSD                             Kingston SSDNow V300 120GB
HDD                            Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200RPM
Video Card                  EVGA nVidia GeForce RTX 2070 Super KO Gaming
Case                           Corsair Carbide 600Q
PSU                            Corsair CX750M
Optical Drive               ASUS DVD RW
OS                              Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Keyboard                    Corsair K70 LUX Cherry MX Brown
Mouse                         Corsair Sabre RGB
Speakers                     JBL Peebles
Monitor                        LG 23MP55HQ 1080P 60Hz 5ms 23"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×