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So as the title shows, MEMORY_MANAGEMENT ERROR shows up now on my pc. In a dark period of my life, I decided to do the unthinkable. I mix matched my RAM sticks. I have an i3-6100, h110m asus matx mobo, mushkin chronos 240gb ssd, 725w sentey psu, r9 390 sapphire nitro, asus dvd drive, and a samsung 8gb ddr3L stick of ram. Months ago, i added another ram stick but it was 4gb ddr3 1600mhz. Notice how i said 4gb and ddr3... Not ddr3L. Anyways I found out,  after researching online, the mobo and cpu I have absolutely cannot use ddr3 and must use ddr3L. I constantly got the bsod mentioned above. After a week of tinkering, I somehow got windows to reinstall. Enjoyed my pc ever since. Until today I got the bsod I mentioned above. I've had the pc running with only the original Samsung 8gb ddr3L since it was originally fixed but now it no longer works.   NOW I just want to buy new parts and scrap the damaged pieces ie mobo,  ram, cpu whatever it may be. My question to you kind people is "which part has been completely damaged from my simple minded ram mix match dilemma that happened a while back?" excuse me if there are many grammatical errors for I am using a phone for this post. 

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Here's the gist: your DDR3 stick is rated to be stable at 1.5V, most probably. But the motherboard is running it at 1.35V because that's the stock voltage for low-power DDR3 like the Samsung you have in there. Less voltage = less stability. It's likely that DDR3 chip isn't stable at its rated speed at that voltage.

 

I would fix it by trying to find a configuration that's stable at 1.35V. Use a lower speed like 1333 MHz (might lose a bit of performance), or use longer memory timings, then stress test (do an 8-hour run of memtest 86+).

 

Another option is to do away with that stick and run just 8GB RAM, because 8GB is still enough

We have a NEW and GLORIOUSER-ER-ER PSU Tier List Now. (dammit @LukeSavenije stop coming up with new ones)

You can check out the old one that gave joy to so many across the land here

 

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide. (Currently looking for suggestions to update it into the context of <current year> and make it its own thread)

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)

Chillinmachine: Noctua NH-C14S
Framepainting-inator: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Hybrid

Attachcorethingy: Gigabyte H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333

Computerarmor: Silverstone RL06 "Lookalike"

Rememberdoogle: 1TB HDD + 120GB TR150 + 240 SSD Plus + 1TB MX500

AdditionalPylons: Phanteks AMP! 550W (based on Seasonic GX-550)

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: Razer Viper Mini + Huion H430P drawing Tablet

Auralnterface: Sennheiser HD 6xx

Liquidrectangles: LG 27UK850-W 4K HDR

 

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10 minutes ago, Energycore said:

Here's the gist: your DDR3 stick is rated to be stable at 1.5V, most probably. But the motherboard is running it at 1.35V because that's the stock voltage for low-power DDR3 like the Samsung you have in there. Less voltage = less stability. It's likely that DDR3 chip isn't stable at its rated speed at that voltage.

 

I would fix it by trying to find a configuration that's stable at 1.35V. Use a lower speed like 1333 MHz (might lose a bit of performance), or use longer memory timings, then stress test (do an 8-hour run of memtest 86+).

 

Another option is to do away with that stick and run just 8GB RAM, because 8GB is still enough

I'm sorry for the poor wording but I've already been running it with just the original samsung ddr3l 1600mhz these past few months. There was only a period of time in the past where I had the other stick of ram installed which I took out to fix the assumed issue the first time I got the bsod (months ago) and the pc has been running well since until today. Would you still recommend that I replace just the ram and would you say the mobo is probably still good? The first time this issue appeared (in the past) I had tried almost every option for lower voltage ram as well as replaced my i5 skylake with this i3.  

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2 minutes ago, YoY0 said:

I'm sorry for the poor wording but I've already been running it with just the original samsung ddr3l 1600mhz these past few months. There was only a period of time in the past where I had the other stick of ram installed which I took out to fix the assumed issue the first time I got the bsod (months ago) and the pc has been running well since until today. Would you still recommend that I replace just the ram and would you say the mobo is probably still good? The first time this issue appeared (in the past) I had tried almost every option for lower voltage ram as well as replaced my i5 skylake with this i3.  

Oh, you're getting the BSOD with just the Samsung stick? Interesting. Just in case a RAM setting got moved around, clear your CMOS. Then see if you still get them and if you still do, time to start playing with speeds and timings.

We have a NEW and GLORIOUSER-ER-ER PSU Tier List Now. (dammit @LukeSavenije stop coming up with new ones)

You can check out the old one that gave joy to so many across the land here

 

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide. (Currently looking for suggestions to update it into the context of <current year> and make it its own thread)

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)

Chillinmachine: Noctua NH-C14S
Framepainting-inator: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Hybrid

Attachcorethingy: Gigabyte H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333

Computerarmor: Silverstone RL06 "Lookalike"

Rememberdoogle: 1TB HDD + 120GB TR150 + 240 SSD Plus + 1TB MX500

AdditionalPylons: Phanteks AMP! 550W (based on Seasonic GX-550)

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: Razer Viper Mini + Huion H430P drawing Tablet

Auralnterface: Sennheiser HD 6xx

Liquidrectangles: LG 27UK850-W 4K HDR

 

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28 minutes ago, Energycore said:

Oh, you're getting the BSOD with just the Samsung stick? Interesting. Just in case a RAM setting got moved around, clear your CMOS. Then see if you still get them and if you still do, time to start playing with speeds and timings.

I cleared the cmos.  No change. Does the second option require getting a hold of more ram sticks? 

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11 minutes ago, YoY0 said:

I cleared the cmos.  No change. Does the second option require getting a hold of more ram sticks? 

No, just go into the BIOS, set the speed to 1333, and see if anything changes.

We have a NEW and GLORIOUSER-ER-ER PSU Tier List Now. (dammit @LukeSavenije stop coming up with new ones)

You can check out the old one that gave joy to so many across the land here

 

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide. (Currently looking for suggestions to update it into the context of <current year> and make it its own thread)

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)

Chillinmachine: Noctua NH-C14S
Framepainting-inator: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Hybrid

Attachcorethingy: Gigabyte H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333

Computerarmor: Silverstone RL06 "Lookalike"

Rememberdoogle: 1TB HDD + 120GB TR150 + 240 SSD Plus + 1TB MX500

AdditionalPylons: Phanteks AMP! 550W (based on Seasonic GX-550)

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: Razer Viper Mini + Huion H430P drawing Tablet

Auralnterface: Sennheiser HD 6xx

Liquidrectangles: LG 27UK850-W 4K HDR

 

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