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Xbox Controller not working! PC

Woofly94

My controller was working fine, then I replaced the batteries, now it won't work!

 

It connects to the wireless adapter both white lights (both working), but the controller doesn't work on any games, what's going on? I've tried literally everything minus re-installing windows 10 and nothing is working!

 

The controller is always within 10 inches of the adapter and is facing directly at it

 

This is what I've tried:

 

Change adapter to 3.0 USB

Re-install drivers

Uninstall drivers - reboot PC

Reboot PC

Change batteries

Reconnect controller to adapter

Looking in game settings to change to Xbox Controller (no options anymore, like PC doesn't recognize it) 

Boot game up, then turn on controller

 

I've tried so many fixes I can't remember them all but none of them work, I've had this problem alot recently and re-installing drivers fix the problem, however this time nothing is working

 

Don't tell me to get a new controller or adapter because it's broken, it was working perfectly fine till I replaced the batteries, now no game recognises it. Like I said it's connected to the adapter

 

I've looked everywhere online and it seems nobody has this problem.

 

 

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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1 minute ago, Abyss Gaming said:

http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/wireless-controller-disconnects Maybe this could help, something may be interfering as I know somethings on my xnox my controller randomly disconects and I think its from my headset.

I've checked the whole microsoft website for help, none of them help because they're not the problem.

 

Did you read the OP? it says the adapter is always facing the controller and is within 10 inches of it, and it states the controller was working till I changed batteries, hence it could not be interference.

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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2 minutes ago, Woofly94 said:

I've checked the whole microsoft website for help, none of them help because they're not the problem.

 

Did you read the OP? it says the adapter is always facing the controller and is within 10 inches of it, and it states the controller was working till I changed batteries, hence it could not be interference.

check your device manager and check if the controller's inputs are correctly detected.

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

I've checked the whole microsoft website for help, none of them help because they're not the problem.

 

Did you read the OP? it says the adapter is always facing the controller and is within 10 inches of it, and it states the controller was working till I changed batteries, hence it could not be interference.

 

That doesnt mean it cant be interference but.. ok. Are the batteries in the right way? (lol) and if they are are they fully pushed in? DUmb question but the batteries on my xbox controller can shift around sometimes if i dont put the cover on quick enough.

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3 minutes ago, tlink said:

check your device manager and check if the controller's inputs are correctly detected.

Was first thing I did, they're working properly.

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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Just now, Woofly94 said:

Done that, they're working properly.

 

2 minutes ago, Abyss Gaming said:

That doesnt mean it cant be interference but.. ok. Are the batteries in the right way? (lol) and if they are are they fully pushed in? DUmb question but the batteries on my xbox controller can shift around sometimes if i dont put the cover on quick enough.

Yes I know how to put batteries in.

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

Was first thing I did, they're working properly.

if it detects every button correctly and every axis correctly than it isn't your controller, adapter nor your drivers. probably the game you're playing fails to interface with it, try looking in the settings of that.

 

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

 

Yes I know how to put batteries in.

 

Jeez so do i its a controller flaw omg you dont have to be a b*** about it

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1 minute ago, tlink said:

if it detects every button correctly and every axis correctly than it isn't your controller, adapter nor your drivers. probably the game you're playing fails to interface with it, try looking in the settings of that.

 

What do you mean? Device Manager doesn't show inputs if the controller is working, if it does then I haven't seen it after spending 30 minutes in Device Manager troubleshooting, I was playing the game moments before changing batteries...

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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4 minutes ago, Abyss Gaming said:

Jeez so do i its a controller flaw omg you dont have to be a b*** about it

I'm not being a *** about it, but that was a silly question you have to admit, if the batteries were not in correctly, the controller wouldnt turn on, same with if the batteries were not in properly.

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

I'm not being a *** about it, but that was a silly question you have to admit.

No it really isnt considering there are people on this forum all the time with silly fixes, plus i own the controller and have experienced these issues just with the xbox itself. Now go let someone else help you.

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3 minutes ago, Woofly94 said:

What do you mean? Device Manager doesn't show inputs if the controller is working, if it does then I haven't seen it after spending 30 minutes in Device Manager troubleshooting, I was playing the game moments before changing batteries...

sorry you're right, i meant devices and printers. heres a guide for it.

http://www.howtogeek.com/241421/how-to-calibrate-your-gaming-controller-in-windows-10/

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1 minute ago, Abyss Gaming said:

No it really isnt considering there are people on this forum all the time with silly fixes, plus i own the controller and have experienced these issues just with the xbox itself. Now go let someone else help you.

It's not a fix though? it's common sense and logic, if the batteries were not in properly it wouldn't turn on, if the batteries were loose, it wouldn't turn on, did you read OP?

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

It's not a fix though? it's common sense and logic, if the batteries were not in properly it wouldn't turn on, if the batteries were loose, it wouldn't turn on, did you read OP?

 

Image result for talk to the hand gif

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4 minutes ago, tlink said:

sorry you're right, i meant devices and printers. heres a guide for it.

http://www.howtogeek.com/241421/how-to-calibrate-your-gaming-controller-in-windows-10/

Xbox one controller doesn't show up, is that because it's not recognized? wireless adapter shows up

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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6 minutes ago, Woofly94 said:

Xbox one controller doesn't show up, is that because it's not recognized? wireless adapter shows up

try rightclickin the adapter and then game controller settings, then properties. it should show the same window as with the controller in the guide i linked. then go to the testing tab and try pressing buttons to see if they register. windows is very inconsistent with this stuff so its really trail and error with finding this stuff for me too haha

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8 minutes ago, tlink said:

try rightclickin the adapter and then game controller settings, then properties. it should show the same window as with the controller in the guide i linked. then go to the testing tab and try pressing buttons to see if they register.

Theres no game controller settings, there is a troubleshoot option, I clicked that and it said that the Xbox One Adapter does not work properly with USB 3.0 so I put it back it it's original USB 2.0 and it still says it doesn't work with USB 3.0?, I re-installed the drivers while in USB 2.0 and troubleshoot stills says it won't work with USB 3.0

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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1 minute ago, Woofly94 said:

Theres no game controller settings, there is a troubleshoot option, I clicked that and it said that the Xbox One Adapter does not work properly with USB 3.0 so I put it back it it's original USB 2.0 and it still says it doesn't work with USB 3.0?, I re-installed the drivers while in USB 2.0 and troubleshoot stills says it won't work with USB 3.0

have you used the usb extension cord that comes with the adapter? or is it directly next to usb 3.0 ports? usb3.0 can cause interference on the 2.4ghz band which is where the xbox controller and adapter communicate at. try bringing it away from possible sources of interference and see if that helps unless you already did that. whether or not that is the cause its good practice anyways :P. i honestly don't know what else could be the problem, maybe another driver reinstall for controller etc works magically now. 

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I use USB extension, I've not used it before and had no problems, there is no interference, unless the batteries(?) can give interference, I doubt it I've re-installed driver 10 times now, seems this problem isn't even on Microsoft website so I have no idea.

Gaming Rig:  Case: Modified  NZXT H440 Black/Red | Storage: 512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD & 3TB WD Black HDD | CPU: Intel Core i7 7700K | Motherboard: Z270 Sabertooth TUF Mark 1 | PSU: 1000W EVGA P2 | Graphics Card: GTX Titan X Pascal | RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 3600Mhz | Cooling: X3 RES, CoolStream XE 360 Rad, Gold EK Supremacy EVO, D5 PWM EK Pump, Ice Dragon Nano Fluid 2Litre | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120 PWM Fans 1x Corsair AF 140 | Cables: CableMod Black/Red Braided cable kit | Case Mods: Tempered Glass front panel & Tempered Glass Side Panel (Finished) 

 

Setup: Monitors: Ben XR3501 2x Acer GN246HLBbid 24 | Keyboard: K70 & K95 Vengeace RGB Cherry MX Red | Mouse: Razer Deathadder & Corsair Scimitar RGB | TV: 43" LG 4K Smart TV, 50" Samsung 4K 

 

Laptop: ASUS ZenBook UX310UA-FB097T

 

Racing Cockpit Setup  GT Omega Pro with TV stand | 52 inch Bush Smart TV | Fanatec CS v2.5 | Fanatec CSL Elite LC | Fanatec P1 & Formula Rim | Corsair Strafe Blue MX RGB

 

Racing Cockpit PC: Case: Unknown cheap case from Amazon (modified to fit GTX 1080 & Cooler) | Storage: 1TB Samsung 960 Pro | CPU: i7 7700k | Motherboard: MSI Z170 | PSU: 750W EVGA Gold | Graphics Card: GTX 1080 | RAM: HyperX Fury 32GB 2400mhz | Cooling: Hydro 100i | Fans: 4x Corsair SP120 PWN fans | Cables: Standard PSU Cables | Case Mods: Making room for GTX 1080 & Cooler.

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