How is my build?

[AssassinUni]

Hey I'm planning to build my next pc so I planned what I wanted on pcpartpicker and this is my build.

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TRhCm8

I am planning to play 1080p with medium to high graphics on a budget of max USD1500. Is this build good enough or I can get better hardware? Thanks a bunch!

[Mira Yurizaki]

With that you'll easily kill any game on 1080p at max settings. But you should wait for the GTX 1070 or see how the RX 480 does.

[rm -rf]

7 minutes ago, AssassinUni said:

Hey I'm planning to build my next pc so I planned what I wanted on pcpartpicker and this is my build.

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TRhCm8

I am planning to play 1080p with medium to high graphics on a budget of max USD1500. Is this build good enough or I can get better hardware? Thanks a bunch!

Firstly, welcome to the forums.

You can find a cheaper version of Windows 10 in other places.

I think yous should get a larger monitor.

For now much money you can upgrade your 1TB to 2TB.

I think that you should go for 2x8 instead of 4x4 in RAM, for future upgrade ability.

That computer will very easily run 1080p on high for any AAA game, and 1440p max for the popular games like League and CS:GO.

[Herman Mcpootis]

buy your OS from kinguin/reddit for $20-30 USD if you wanna save some money. went with a 1440p monitor since your budget is enough for it, wait for the gtx 1070 in a day or two and get that instead.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
CPU Cooler: LEPA AquaChanger 240 103.6 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($59.99 @ Newegg) 
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($82.98 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($49.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($153.95 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($54.80 @ Amazon) 
Case: Corsair Graphite Series 230T Black ATX Mid Tower Case  ($54.99 @ Micro Center) 
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($54.99 @ NCIX US) 
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer  ($13.89 @ OutletPC) 
Monitor: Acer G257HU smidpx 25.0" 60Hz Monitor  ($259.99 @ B&H) 
Other: GTX 1070 ($380.00)
Total: $1399.56
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-10 01:08 EDT-0400

[AssassinUni]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far! I'm new to building a PC and I don't know a lot of things about it. For the OS, the ones at Kinguin are OEM, is there a difference with the one I put on the list? For my monitor, I have a space constrain at home and would not want a monitor that is too big. For me, 24" is enough for me but if there are better options, feel free to put it here. Thanks once again!

[Herman Mcpootis]

9 minutes ago, AssassinUni said:

Thanks for all the suggestions so far! I'm new to building a PC and I don't know a lot of things about it. For the OS, the ones at Kinguin are OEM, is there a difference with the one I put on the list? For my monitor, I have a space constrain at home and would not want a monitor that is too big. For me, 24" is enough for me but if there are better options, feel free to put it here. Thanks once again!

There are retail keys that don't cost much more and are reusable after a motheroard change, go wih those instead if possible. The OEM keys are locked to the mobo after each use, and you'll have to get a new windows key after replacing it. The asus vx24ah is at 24' and is still 1440p, you can consider that for the monitor.

[Zyndo]

11 minutes ago, AssassinUni said:

Thanks for all the suggestions so far! I'm new to building a PC and I don't know a lot of things about it.

Since you're new, do you intend to overclock? you could save alot of money by not going Z170, i5-6600k, and liquid cooler. Or you could spend about the same amount of cash and go H170, i7-6700, and air cooler. Gaming performance would basically be the same, it would be a lot less hassle if you're not big into overclocking, and would benefit more from multi-threaded applications (if you ever ran into those).

Don't let that discourage you from overclocking though. If you want to try your hand at it, that can certainly be a lot of fun too. If you want that K skew and liquid cooling, I support that 100%. I'm worried that since you said you're new to computers, you may not full appreciate or understand what the Z170 and k skew is for, and don't want you to be wasting your money on something you wouldn't use.

if you DO intend to overclock, hermans build suggestion is pretty solid. good parts (although I'm not familiar with that liquid cooler). Definitely agree with him about the GPU selection. get a 1070 over a 980. its a better card than the 980 for a lower price.

[Manage My Cables]

14 minutes ago, herman mcpootis said:

There are retail keys that don't cost much more and are reusable after a motheroard change, go wih those instead if possible. The OEM keys are locked to the mobo after each use, and you'll have to get a new windows key after replacing it. The asus vx24ah is at 24' and is still 1440p, you can consider that for the monitor.

OEM keys aren't locked to the mobo i've use the same OEM key on about 4 computers.

[AssassinUni]

3 minutes ago, Zyndo said:

Since you're new, do you intend to overclock? you could save alot of money by not going Z170, i5-6600k, and liquid cooler. Or you could spend about the same amount of cash and go H170, i7-6700, and air cooler. Gaming performance would basically be the same, it would be a lot less hassle if you're not big into overclocking, and would benefit more from multi-threaded applications (if you ever ran into those).

Don't let that discourage you from overclocking though. If you want to try your hand at it, that can certainly be a lot of fun too. If you want that K skew and liquid cooling, I support that 100%. I'm worried that since you said you're new to computers, you may not full appreciate or understand what the Z170 and k skew is for, and don't want you to be wasting your money on something you wouldn't use.

if you DO intend to overclock, hermans build suggestion is pretty solid. good parts (although I'm not familiar with that liquid cooler). Definitely agree with him about the GPU selection. get a 1070 over a 980. its a better card than the 980 for a lower price.

Oh okay thanks guys! I am new to all these and I was not planning to overclock the cpu. I don't understand what k skew is for and might not want liquid cooling. Other than that, his build is quite decent and thanks for your suggestions!

[Herman Mcpootis]

14 minutes ago, AssassinUni said:

Oh okay thanks guys! I am new to all these and I was not planning to overclock the cpu. I don't understand what k skew is for and might not want liquid cooling. Other than that, his build is quite decent and thanks for your suggestions!

If you really don't want to overclock, downgrade the z170 and i5 6600k to a b150/h170 and i5 6500, and either use the stock cooler or replace it with the 212 evo, and use that for something else.

[Zyndo]

"K skew" refers to an unlocked intel chip. Unlocked chips mean that their base settings can be adjusted by the user to force it to run faster than the manufacturers original specifications. For example an i7-6700 is set to 3.4 GHz base clock, and up to 4.0 Boost clock. It will always run within these frequencies. I have a i7 6700k and I can tell mine to run at as high as 4.6GHz (before it becomes unstable). Many other people have gotten theirs to 4.7, 4.8 or even above 5.0 GHz (although you usually need advanced cooling methods to reach above 5.0GHz). The way you go about doing this is somewhat simple, but if you're not interested in doing that, then no problem.

Chips that don't have a K at the end of their name don't have this feature enabled which is fine for the majority of users and gamers.

So if we take the 376.97 that herman allocated for his CPU, cooler, and motherboard, we can get the following:

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/ywdxyc

Slightly more money, much better (potential) performance since you would be leaving performance untouched on your 6600k. If you don't to spend that much money on those parts, you could also go for an i5-6500, or i5-6600 instead of that i7. i7's are typically quite overkill for gaming purposes.

[stconquest]

2 hours ago, AssassinUni said:

Hey I'm planning to build my next pc so I planned what I wanted on pcpartpicker and this is my build.

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TRhCm8

I am planning to play 1080p with medium to high graphics on a budget of max USD1500. Is this build good enough or I can get better hardware? Thanks a bunch!

I know you are unfamiliar with parts, so I will try not to sound too harsh.

 

CPU/Motherboard - Your CPU/motherboard selection is not that great.  The Z87 motherboard is old and was designed to work with original Haswell CPUs (i5 4670K and i7 4770K).  There is even a small chance that the bios has not been updated and the PC would not even post.  It would not even recognize the 4790K as a CPU if this is the case.

 

By going with Haswell you are missing out on key performance features like high speed DDR4 RAM. 

 

RAM - You have selected 4 sticks of low capacity RAM for a platform that only support dual channels.  You are not only putting extra stress on the memory controller but losing a bit of performance simply for having low capacity 4GB sticks.

 

SSD - A bit too small for the money.  You can get a decent 240GB SSD for that price.

 

GPU - Okay.  I am being nice here... not the best of choices.  A GTX 980 right now is a complete waste of money.  You also have a blower style cooler selected, another bad choice.  Blower coolers are loud and do a much worse job when compared to an aftermarket "open air" cooler.

 

The GTX 980 will be outperformed by the new GPUs at a lower cost.  The $400 GTX 1070 will blow it out of the water and the $200-$230 RX 480 will near the GTX 980's performance.

 

PSU - That is a very low end power supply for a $1500 build.

 

Price - You specify you have a budget of $1500.  Your build is $1444 after $120 in mail in rebates.  To buy your PC you need $1560.  That is the real cost of the PC you posted.

 

 

Example build:

 

A $1600 build that you can cut down to $1500 in a few ways.  I left roughly $400 for a GTX 1070:

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($338.99 @ SuperBiiz)  <<Drop to a 6600K (-$100)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler  ($56.60 @ Amazon)  <<Drop to a Cryorig H7 (-$20)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($69.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($87.69 @ Amazon)  <<Drop to a ADATA SP550 (-$30)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($46.89 @ Amazon)  <<Leave this out for the initial build ($-47).  You can easily add more storage as you need it.
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case  ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer  ($14.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full - USB 32/64-bit  ($108.99 @ SuperBiiz)  <<Drop to OEM license or grab a grey market key for Kinguin or Reddit (-$25 to -$75)
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)  <<Front Intake
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)  <<Front Intake
Monitor: Acer G257HU smidpx 25.0" 60Hz Monitor  ($259.99 @ B&H)  <<Drop to an IPS 60Hz, 1080p monitor (this one here is IPS, 60Hz, 1440p) (-$125)
Total: $1214.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-10 02:52 EDT-0400

 

Note:  If you do drop to a IPS, 60Hz, 1080p monitor, you should wait for the release of the RX 480 on June 29th.

 

You should have some questions, ask them.

 

What I would recommend to get the cost to $1500:

 

 

$1100 + a $400 GTX 1070

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($297.99 @ Amazon)  <<Boosts to 4GHz
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler  ($35.00)  <<Link at bottom
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($82.98 @ Newegg)  <<This is simply to allow for the faster RAM, $80 is a good deal
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($69.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($87.69 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case  ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer  ($14.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer G257HU smidpx 25.0" 60Hz Monitor  ($259.99 @ B&H)
Total: $1081.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-10 03:12 EDT-0400

 

Link the the Cryorig H7:  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF2DZ6565

 
 

 

[AssassinUni]

31 minutes ago, stconquest said:

I know you are unfamiliar with parts, so I will try not to sound too harsh.

 

CPU/Motherboard - Your CPU/motherboard selection is not that great.  The Z87 motherboard is old and was designed to work with original Haswell CPUs (i5 4670K and i7 4770K).  There is even a small chance that the bios has not been updated and the PC would not even post.  It would not even recognize the 4790K as a CPU if this is the case.

 

By going with Haswell you are missing out on key performance features like high speed DDR4 RAM. 

 

RAM - You have selected 4 sticks of low capacity RAM for a platform that only support dual channels.  You are not only putting extra stress on the memory controller but losing a bit of performance simply for having low capacity 4GB sticks.

 

SSD - A bit too small for the money.  You can get a decent 240GB SSD for that price.

 

GPU - Okay.  I am being nice here... not the best of choices.  A GTX 980 right now is a complete waste of money.  You also have a blower style cooler selected, another bad choice.  Blower coolers are loud and do a much worse job when compared to an aftermarket "open air" cooler.

 

The GTX 980 will be outperformed by the new GPUs at a lower cost.  The $400 GTX 1070 will blow it out of the water and the $200-$230 RX 480 will near the GTX 980's performance.

 

PSU - That is a very low end power supply for a $1500 build.

 

Price - You specify you have a budget of $1500.  Your build is $1444 after $120 in mail in rebates.  To buy your PC you need $1560.  That is the real cost of the PC you posted.

 

 

Example build:

 

A $1600 build that you can cut down to $1500 in a few ways.  I left roughly $400 for a GTX 1070:

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($338.99 @ SuperBiiz)  <<Drop to a 6600K (-$100)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler  ($56.60 @ Amazon)  <<Drop to a Cryorig H7 (-$20)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($69.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($87.69 @ Amazon)  <<Drop to a ADATA SP550 (-$30)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($46.89 @ Amazon)  <<Leave this out for the initial build ($-47).  You can easily add more storage as you need it.
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case  ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer  ($14.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full - USB 32/64-bit  ($108.99 @ SuperBiiz)  <<Drop to OEM license or grab a grey market key for Kinguin or Reddit (-$25 to -$75)
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)  <<Front Intake
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)  <<Front Intake
Monitor: Acer G257HU smidpx 25.0" 60Hz Monitor  ($259.99 @ B&H)  <<Drop to an IPS 60Hz, 1080p monitor (this one here is IPS, 60Hz, 1440p) (-$125)
Total: $1214.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-10 02:52 EDT-0400

 

Note:  If you do drop to a IPS, 60Hz, 1080p monitor, you should wait for the release of the RX 480 on June 29th.

 

You should have some questions, ask them.

 

What I would recommend to get the cost to $1500:

 

  Reveal hidden contents

$1100 + a $400 GTX 1070

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($297.99 @ Amazon)  <<Boosts to 4GHz
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler  ($35.00)  <<Link at bottom
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($82.98 @ Newegg)  <<This is simply to allow for the faster RAM, $80 is a good deal
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($69.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($87.69 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case  ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer  ($14.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer G257HU smidpx 25.0" 60Hz Monitor  ($259.99 @ B&H)
Total: $1081.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-10 03:12 EDT-0400

 

Link the the Cryorig H7:  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF2DZ6565

 
 

 

I see. Thanks for the feedback! Now onto another question and don't mind me for being very unfamiliar with everything, but what is the difference between a mid tower case and a full tower case in terms of future upgrading?

[stconquest]

14 minutes ago, AssassinUni said:

I see. Thanks for the feedback! Now onto another question and don't mind me for being very unfamiliar with everything, but what is the difference between a mid tower case and a full tower case in terms of future upgrading?

That depends on the mid or full tower.  The Enthoo Pro M is not a small case.  It will look empty with the parts I selected actually.  Phanteks makes some of the best cases at some of the lowest prices.

 

@AssassinUni

 

I guess what I am trying to say is that you can't really compare cases based on whether they are mid or full towers.  Cases should be compared model vs model. 

 

What are you planning to add/change in the future?

[AssassinUni]

19 minutes ago, stconquest said:

That depends on the mid or full tower.  The Enthoo Pro M is not a small case.  It will look empty with the parts I selected actually.  Phanteks makes some of the best cases at some of the lowest prices.

 

@AssassinUni

 

I guess what I am trying to say is that you can't really compare cases based on whether they are mid or full towers.  Cases should be compared model vs model. 

 

What are you planning to add/change in the future?

I am planning to change the graphics card in the next few years when games need a more powerful graphics card

[stconquest]

1 minute ago, AssassinUni said:

I am planning to change the graphics card in the next few years when games need a more powerful gpu

You don't really need a full tower for that.  Is there anything else?

[AssassinUni]

1 minute ago, stconquest said:

You don't really need a full tower for that.  Is there anything else?

Maybe the cpu and/or motherboard in the future

[stconquest]

1 minute ago, AssassinUni said:

Maybe the cpu and/or motherboard in the future

Now if you wanted to change to an E-ATX (Extended ATX) motherboard, that could be a reason to get a bigger case.  If you were going to have like 10 hard drives in a case a full tower will feel less congested.  Maybe if you were doing massive custom water cooling loops, with dual reservoirs and thick rads, a full tower would be a good idea.

 

 

[AssassinUni]

56 minutes ago, stconquest said:

Now if you wanted to change to an E-ATX (Extended ATX) motherboard, that could be a reason to get a bigger case.  If you were going to have like 10 hard drives in a case a full tower will feel less congested.  Maybe if you were doing massive custom water cooling loops, with dual reservoirs and thick rads, a full tower would be a good idea.

 

 

Okay noted. Thanks for the explanation!

[stconquest]

37 minutes ago, AssassinUni said:

Okay noted. Thanks for the explanation!

Since this is your first build, let's try to cut cost down some more... while leaving you room to upgrade two years down the road. The main reason for this is that the 6700K is only $40 more, kind of a shame.

 

The i7 6700 will last you 5 years easily.  What you get for the extra $40 for the 6700K is a few more years on top of the non-K version.  I can easily see it lasting 7-10 years, for gaming.

 

Under $1300:

 

I dropped the monitor to a IPS, 60Hz, 1080p panel, a nice looking 23.8" one.  What this means is that you do not have to have a GTX 1070 to run games at max settings.  So instead, you can buy a $230 RX 480 and happily game for roughly two years.  At that point, you can decide to upgrade to a higher resolution (2560x1440 or even 4K - 3840x2160) and pair that monitor with a new GPU capable of running those resolutions.  You would keep the 1080p display as a second monitor. 

 

I run dual monitors, one main and one secondary.  I don't think I could go back to just one monitor.  It would feel wrong.

 

I added some mass storage.

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($338.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler  ($35.00)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($69.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($87.69 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($46.89 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case  ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer  ($14.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer R240HY bidx 23.8" 60Hz Monitor  ($131.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1041.36
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-10 05:25 EDT-0400

[AssassinUni]

52 minutes ago, stconquest said:

Since this is your first build, let's try to cut cost down some more... while leaving you room to upgrade two years down the road. The main reason for this is that the 6700K is only $40 more, kind of a shame.

 

The i7 6700 will last you 5 years easily.  What you get for the extra $40 for the 6700K is a few more years on top of the non-K version.  I can easily see it lasting 7-10 years, for gaming.

 

Under $1300:

 

I dropped the monitor to a IPS, 60Hz, 1080p panel, a nice looking 23.8" one.  What this means is that you do not have to have a GTX 1070 to run games at max settings.  So instead, you can buy a $230 RX 480 and happily game for roughly two years.  At that point, you can decide to upgrade to a higher resolution (2560x1440 or even 4K - 3840x2160) and pair that monitor with a new GPU capable of running those resolutions.  You would keep the 1080p display as a second monitor. 

 

I run dual monitors, one main and one secondary.  I don't think I could go back to just one monitor.  It would feel wrong.

 

I added some mass storage.

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($338.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler  ($35.00)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($69.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($87.69 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($46.89 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case  ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer  ($14.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($84.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Fractal Design SSR3-140-WT 56.1 CFM  140mm Fan  ($6.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer R240HY bidx 23.8" 60Hz Monitor  ($131.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1041.36
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-10 05:25 EDT-0400

Yes thanks for that. Now onto another topic. You see, I use shadowplay a lot as I record videos. I would rather opt for an nvidia card to an AMD card.

[stconquest]

6 minutes ago, AssassinUni said:

Yes thanks for that. Now onto another topic. You see, I use shadowplay a lot as I record videos. I would rather opt for an nvidia card to an AD card.

Just use OBS (Open Broadcaster Software).  It works fine for recording and streaming.  ...and it is free a.k.a. "Open".

 

https://obsproject.com/

[AssassinUni]

18 minutes ago, stconquest said:

Just use OBS (Open Broadcaster Software).  It works fine for recording and streaming.  ...and it is free a.k.a. "Open".

 

https://obsproject.com/

Okay. However, if I really want an nvidia card, not saying I hate AMD or am an nvidia fan boy, what nvidia graphics card would be a good choice?

[stconquest]

19 minutes ago, AssassinUni said:

Okay. However, if I really want an nvidia card, not saying I hate AMD or am an nvidia fan boy, what nvidia graphics card would be a good choice?

Right now you are looking at two cards:  The GTX 1070 ($400) and GTX 1080 ($650 roughly).

 

You take add $175 to the "under $1300" and go with a 1070.  Keep the 1080p monitor for now and then when you can afford it, grab a 1440p one as well.

[AssassinUni]

1 minute ago, stconquest said:

Right now you are looking at two cards:  The GTX 1070 ($400) and GTX 1080 ($650 roughly).

Alright thanks for helping! Now I get a rough idea on what I'm buying.