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Do i need to delid?

I have a i5 3570K Ivy Bridge, overclocked to 4.4GHz at 1.145v stable.

Now my idle temps are about 50*C and after doing a bunch of reading, especially on this chip, I am wondering if I need to delid the thing and put some new thermal paste on the die?

What are your thoughts?

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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Risk:  you mess up your CPU.

 

Reward:  if you use good TIM, you might see drops in temperature by much as 10 degrees, maybe even more.

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From everything i've read on de-lidding, it sounds really sketchy and not worth the risk of ruining the cpu. In my opinion I think itd be worth it to just get a better cpu cooler, preferably water cooled if you can swing it in your system.

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not worth the risk. i wouldnt do it.

 

its probably your cpu cooler. try reapplying the thermal paste depending on how long you had it. if that doesnt work, get a new cooler

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Y'all are a bunch of chickens :P

I have an aio water cooler, it's also been pretty warm here lately so I think I may actually have to dial back my clock closer to stock speeds for the summer.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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Y'all are a bunch of chickens :P

I have an aio water cooler, it's also been pretty warm here lately so I think I may actually have to dial back my clock closer to stock speeds for the summer.

 

Want a video?  I watched one a few months back, looked pretty easy.  I have a 3570K as well.

 

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I've looked into it quite heavily actually, there's two ways I've found, the wood and hammer way and the razor way. Not sure if I wanna do it for sure or not.

Based on my stock idle temps (~40*) I think if I did do it its drop me around the 35-40 now but it's all speculation really.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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I've looked into it quite heavily actually, there's two ways I've found, the wood and hammer way and the razor way. Not sure if I wanna do it for sure or not.

Based on my stock idle temps (~40*) I think if I did do it its drop me around the 35-40 now but it's all speculation really.

 

It is kind of muggy(humid) here, 23 degrees Celcius.  My CPU temp right now is 37(package).  I am using a 212 EVO with a Lepa Vortex fan on it.  I am at stock BTW. 

 

Watching a movie and posting on LTT, two monitors.

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It is kind of muggy(humid) here, 23 degrees Celcius. My CPU temp right now is 37(package). I am using a 212 EVO with a Lepa Vortex fan on it. I am at stock BTW.

Watching a movie and posting on LTT, two monitors.

Has it been delidded?

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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Could we get some load temps? Idles are useless. Your H60 is only has a 120mm rad, too. If possible, I'd get a 240mm rad AIO. On that note, while on a 1-fan rad, I'd probably try to keep voltage below ~1.35-1.4 depending on what you're comfortable with temp-wise. 

 

But in the case you actually go through with it, I'd use the wood block & vice method. Seems safer, since you can't cut the internal VRMs. I would put something soft to catch the CPU though. All the videos I've seen just have a little piece of cardboard to keep it flying across the room, and that just worries me a bit.

Spoiler

CPU: AMD 5800X

GPU: Gigabyte Aorus 3070 Ti

SSD: WD SN850X 4TB x2

MoBo: Gigabyte Aorus Master B550

Case: Fractal Torrent

PSU: EVGA Supernova G2 750W

 

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Has it been delidded?

 

nope

 

@r-4  When I game I shut off the second monitor and turn my case fans and cooler fan up.  I rarely pass 50 degrees.  Load would probably hit 60, never tried it.

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Could we get some load temps? Idles are useless. Your H60 is only has a 120mm rad, too. If possible, I'd get a 240mm rad AIO. On that note, while on a 1-fan rad, I'd probably try to keep voltage below ~1.35-1.4 depending on what you're comfortable with temp-wise.

But in the case you actually go through with it, I'd use the wood block & vice method. Seems safer, since you can't cut the internal VRMs. I would put something soft to catch the CPU though. All the videos I've seen just have a little piece of cardboard to keep it flying across the room, and that just worries me a bit.

I can't physically fit a dual rad in my case, it's simply too small.

Load temps are about 80-85

nope

I'll have to revert back to stock and see what temps I get.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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I can't physically fit a dual rad in my case, it's simply too small.

Load temps are about 80-85

Looking at your case now, you'd probably have to take out the drive cages. Speaking as someone with a rather small case and all 4 drive slots occupied, I know that isn't really an answer to the problem, it just makes new ones. The fan grills at the top would be great if they weren't spread apart a bit more than would be acceptable. That's too bad.

Those load temps aren't *too* bad, but I'd back off the overclock a bit before de-lid.

Spoiler

CPU: AMD 5800X

GPU: Gigabyte Aorus 3070 Ti

SSD: WD SN850X 4TB x2

MoBo: Gigabyte Aorus Master B550

Case: Fractal Torrent

PSU: EVGA Supernova G2 750W

 

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I can't physically fit a dual rad in my case, it's simply too small.

Load temps are about 80-85

I'll have to revert back to stock and see what temps I get.

 

 

Okay, I ran Intel burn test for a few minutes.  I monitored temps, clock, and voltages using speedfan and HWMonitor.  I watched the CPU load in the Task Manager.

 

One core hit a high of 77 then levelled at 75.  The other three hovered between 66-70. 

 

I had the test set for all threads (cores).

 

I had all my 8 fans running at 100%.

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Looking at your case now, you'd probably have to take out the drive cages. Speaking as someone with a rather small case and all 4 drive slots occupied, I know that isn't really an answer to the problem, it just makes new ones. The fan grills at the top would be great if they weren't spread apart a bit more than would be acceptable. That's too bad.

Those load temps aren't *too* bad, but I'd back off the overclock a bit before de-lid.

I actually have the rad mounted in the front of the case with the fan blowing in, however I think I am going to switch that to blowing out.

I'm also going to see about cutting the metal out between the fan and the rad from the case to help remove the restriction.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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I ran it again:

ImxWwOM.jpg

Do you have turbo and all that jazz on?

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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Do you have turbo and all that jazz on?

 

The clock is 3.6GHz, I believe stock clock is 3.4GHz, so it was turbo'd.

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Yea that's turbo for sure.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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The clock is 3.6GHz, I believe stock clock is 3.4GHz, so it was turbo'd.

Went back to "stock" and I'm sitting around 40*C idle and about 70*C under an Intel Burn test package, wonder if flipping that fan around to blow out and suck the heat out of the rad would made a significant difference.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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Went back to "stock" and I'm sitting around 40*C idle and about 70*C under an Intel Burn test package, wonder if flipping that fan around to blow out and suck the heat out of the rad would made a significant difference.

 

I generally like push on a rad if I had to choose but you can actually test it...  why not.

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I generally like push on a rad if I had to choose but you can actually test it...  why not.

Like blowing into the rad? I figured it would be my best option, however with there being two drives directly on the other side of the rad I am unsure, just kinda a paint to take the front of the case off and stuff.

I may actually go grab a dremel disk and cut a notch in the drive cage or cut it out entirely and remove the platter drives and put a push/pull config on it

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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Like blowing into the rad? I figured it would be my best option, however with there being two drives directly on the other side of the rad I am unsure, just kinda a paint to take the front of the case off and stuff.

 

Yeah.  If there is any space on the edges when you pull, you lose pressure and airflow throw the fins.  With push, all the air is directed through the fins.

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Fair enough, I think it's about time I start to hack into my case. I have had this case (thermaltake V3 Black) for quite a few years and only really had sub par builds in it (P4's and C2D's) so this is really the most up to date heat pumping build I have ever had in the case and the front grill is okay for soemthing like a single fan however I think it's pretty restrictive for a rad/fan setup and should be cut out.

 

 

Yeah.  If there is any space on the edges when you pull, you lose pressure and airflow throw the fins.  With push, all the air is directed through the fins.

Motherboard: MSI G45 | CPU: Intel i7 4790K | RAM: 16GB G.Skill DDR3 | SSD: 2x Samsung 840 Evo 256GB | Graphics: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW | PSU: Corsair HX650W | Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo | Fans: 6x Corsair SP120's | Case: NZXT H440 Razer Edition | OS: Windows 10

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Fair enough, I think it's about time I start to hack into my case. I have had this case (thermaltake V3 Black) for quite a few years and only really had sub par builds in it (P4's and C2D's) so this is really the most up to date heat pumping build I have ever had in the case and the front grill is okay for soemthing like a single fan however I think it's pretty restrictive for a rad/fan setup and should be cut out.

 

It's not the worst case in the world.

 

If you want to go cheap, the Thermaltake Versa is like $33USD, so maybe $45 CDN.  The Phanteks Enthoo Pro is a superb all around case for $130.  Full tower, tons of airflow and a 6 fan hub controller.

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