LTT Precision Driver

[IfRotten]

decided to finally ask for help here

 

bought the precision driver when it first came out and when I got it it would not spin more than 2-3 seconds.

asked support and got canned answer from i think AI about spinning it until it's fixed. fine, did that a bunch but it got worse and started to sound like scraping

asked again and got no answer from anyone except the canned one from before. gave up since I already have trouble talking with people.

today found it again and decided to take it apart since it was broken anyway and found that the bearing was not attached to anything?

it's held to the shaft with the screw but it's freewheeling both on the inner shaft and the black outer piece

on the picture you can see the outer piece is scratched where it was rubbing against the inner piece

 

My question is, is the bearing supposed to be loose? could I fix it by using loctite on it?

any help is appreciated

[manikyath]

14 minutes ago, IfRotten said:

asked support and got canned answer from i think AI

did you read said answer at all? the first response is *always* the 'fist line bot' giving you a canned answer that most closely fits your question (heck.. something LLM's may be good at for once?), then sorts your ticket into categories for the actual human support people to handle, and at the bottom of the e-mail it says "hey i'm a bot at any point you can just say 'i want to talk to a human' and you'll be directed to a human".

 

if you did not respond to the ticket at all past the bot response, support assumed the bot answer was your solution and the ticket auto-closed.

 

all you needed to do was reply to the bot response with "this did not work, please tell me what options are available for refunds/replacements" and you'd be on your way.. probably with one or two more e-mails at most.

 

that aside...

 

i'm gonna guess the bearing is screwed into the center shaft with what appears to be a self-tapping screw, which should be fine. and i then presume the cap side of things is supposed to be a press fit of some variety.

as long as the bearing itself spins freely, i presume it's just a matter of reassembling correctly (my guess is on the screw having been slightly loose or some tolerance being bad?)

 

i dont think the bearing is intended to be attached with a "strong mechanical bond", but it shouldnt be able to move side to side. snug is good, torque-ing it down or very tight press fits might actually deform the bearing.

[TynanTheStack]

If this hasn't been resolved already, I would suggest reaching out to support and letting them know that your issue wasn't resolved. 

 

For some of the finer details about your question: 

There may be a couple of different issues that could have occurred:

1. The bearing may have dust/dirt in it causing it to not spin adequately, if this is the case most likely support is the best avenue as we have some standard troubleshooting steps.
2. The screw may not have been tightened fully and details about this are below:

When tightened down the screw should clamp the inner race of the bearing preventing it from spinning, if that is not the case there is a defect. The screw should have some pre applied loctite that helps keep it in place once tigntened. No additional loctite is needed.

 

This is a deconstructed photo showing the bolt clamping the inner race of the bearing. (This is not how the driver is supposed to be assembled for this driver)

Correct Assembly of the driver:

The last step is to tighten the endcap down to grip the outer race of the bearing between the endcap and the bearing carrier:

The amount of space here may vary but the goal is to snug it down till the bearing is held.

 

Hopefully this helps.

Tynan

 

[Pusbucket]

On 11/6/2025 at 2:38 PM, manikyath said:

 

i'm gonna guess the bearing is screwed into the center shaft with what appears to be a self-tapping screw,

???

no self-tapping screws in that pic.

That's a standard machine screw.

If you don't know, don't guess.

[manikyath]

2 hours ago, Pusbucket said:

???

no self-tapping screws in that pic.

That's a standard machine screw.

If you don't know, don't guess.

for as sharp as the image is, the type of screw that is on OP's image is very close close to the sort used directly in plastic without pre-tapped threads, and a lack of an insert in the plastic implies that the screw is responsible for creating it's own thread.. AKA self tapping.

 

it's almost like i work in manufacturing or something...

 

i also love how you managed to misquote me for the purpose of a snarky remark:

On 11/6/2025 at 11:38 PM, manikyath said:

i'm gonna guess the bearing is screwed into the center shaft with

"from the parts provided, i assume this order of assembly"

On 11/6/2025 at 11:38 PM, manikyath said:

what appears to be a self-tapping screw

"it looks like it might be a self tapping screw, and i dont see any insert in the plastic, so based on appearances it's a self tapping screw"

 

it was an observation, described to indicate how i assume this was assembled, to give context to the paragraph where i talk about what i see could be the causes of OP's problem.

 

or.. y'know.. maybe provide your own input to a thread instead of attacking other users.

[Pusbucket]

1 hour ago, manikyath said:

for as sharp as the image is, the type of screw that is on OP's image is very close close to the sort used directly in plastic without pre-tapped threads, and a lack of an insert in the plastic implies that the screw is responsible for creating it's own thread.. AKA self tapping.

no, you're wrong.

It's an either a 6-32 or 8-32 if ASA, or an m3 or m4 if metric, panhead machine screw.

The thread pitch and type is completely wrong for a self-tapper. 

this is a self-tapper designed for plastic;

 

From the pics provided there is no way to tell if there's an insert or not. Maybe it's black.

Also have you never seen threaded plastic parts?

 

I just retired from an assistant manager position at a hardware store after 7 years and have overall 15 years hardware retail management experience.

Maybe after you've worked for almost 50 years, you'll learn a few things. 

[manikyath]

32 minutes ago, Pusbucket said:

I just retired from an assistant manager position at a hardware store after 7 years and have overall 15 years hardware retail management experience.

you worked in a hardware store, i deal with this sort of assembly every day. and being an assistant manager at a hardware store is ZERO credit for assembly procedures. you're basicly an assisiant manager of a supermarket having opinions on bread recipes.

 

and with some irony.. i'm nowhere near retirement, and i can put forth nearly as many years of more relevant experience. at least part of my workload has been repairs involving parts of this size for just about 10 years. what i'm saying is i know what i'm doing when i'm twisting a screw into a hole, i'm not just reading a supplier's website for determining if this screw "is in fact self tapping". screw has threads, goes in plastic parts, it's self tapping because that's how things are manufactured...

 

32 minutes ago, Pusbucket said:

It's an either a 6-32 or 8-32 if ASA, or an m3 or m4 if metric, panhead machine screw.

maybe, cant tell from the image, on screws that small the difference can be very subtile. i dont care what it is, it's irrelevant to the post, a point you clearly have missed.

 

35 minutes ago, Pusbucket said:

From the pics provided there is no way to tell if there's an insert or not. Maybe it's black.

Also have you never seen threaded plastic parts?

 

- they will not have put threading in this plastic part, that is not a sensible manufacturing step that is done. if there is an insert it will be metal and clearly visible, no factory is gonna pay extra for a colored insert on an invisible part. the insert will be brass. no brass = no insert.

- i rarely see threaded plastic parts, because plastic holds threads about as well as a slice of bread. the 'thing that is done" is either use propper self-tapping screws, or (especially on smaller bits like this) just "any old screw". plastics tend to be so soft that most screws can be "self-tapping" anyways. if you actually had any field experience you'd know this, and yet you talk with such authority.

 

43 minutes ago, Pusbucket said:

 

Maybe after you've worked for almost 50 years, you'll learn a few things. 

i've worked long enough to know that just because you're old that doesnt mean you have any authority to speak on anything, let alone things that are clearly not your field... however much you might feel like is the case.

 

and yet again, all of this is WAY beside the point, because you apparently are so insecure in your retirement that you have to argue over a misquoted line in a double paragraph actually about expected manufacturing tolerances.

 

can i recommend a hobby? there's so many great things to do out there now that you have time.. kit building, model airplanes, painting, perhaps take the mrs. out on a sunny holiday? so many better things to do than to be salty on the internet...

[Pusbucket]

48 minutes ago, manikyath said:

you worked in a hardware store, i deal with this sort of assembly every day. and being an assistant manager at a hardware store is ZERO credit for assembly procedures. you're basicly an assisiant manager of a supermarket having opinions on bread recipes.

 

and with some irony.. i'm nowhere near retirement, and i can put forth nearly as many years of more relevant experience. at least part of my workload has been repairs involving parts of this size for just about 10 years. what i'm saying is i know what i'm doing when i'm twisting a screw into a hole, i'm not just reading a supplier's website for determining if this screw "is in fact self tapping". screw has threads, goes in plastic parts, it's self tapping because that's how things are manufactured...

 

maybe, cant tell from the image, on screws that small the difference can be very subtile. i dont care what it is, it's irrelevant to the post, a point you clearly have missed.

 

- they will not have put threading in this plastic part, that is not a sensible manufacturing step that is done. if there is an insert it will be metal and clearly visible, no factory is gonna pay extra for a colored insert on an invisible part. the insert will be brass. no brass = no insert.

- i rarely see threaded plastic parts, because plastic holds threads about as well as a slice of bread. the 'thing that is done" is either use propper self-tapping screws, or (especially on smaller bits like this) just "any old screw". plastics tend to be so soft that most screws can be "self-tapping" anyways. if you actually had any field experience you'd know this, and yet you talk with such authority.

 

i've worked long enough to know that just because you're old that doesnt mean you have any authority to speak on anything, let alone things that are clearly not your field... however much you might feel like is the case.

 

and yet again, all of this is WAY beside the point, because you apparently are so insecure in your retirement that you have to argue over a misquoted line in a double paragraph actually about expected manufacturing tolerances.

 

can i recommend a hobby? there's so many great things to do out there now that you have time.. kit building, model airplanes, painting, perhaps take the mrs. out on a sunny holiday? so many better things to do than to be salty on the internet...

blah, blah, blah

what ever dude, doesn't change the fact that in this instance you are simply completely wrong. 

 

considering the time and effort you are putting into rebutting anything I post, I'm not the one with an issue about insecurity.

 

[Blasty Blosty]

15 hours ago, Pusbucket said:

blah, blah, blah

what ever dude, doesn't change the fact that in this instance you are simply completely wrong. 

 

considering the time and effort you are putting into rebutting anything I post, I'm not the one with an issue about insecurity.

 

i would laugh at your post but that means you get reputation points

[AbsoluteWoo]

On 11/25/2025 at 7:51 PM, Pusbucket said:

blah, blah, blah

what ever dude, doesn't change the fact that in this instance you are simply completely wrong. 

 

considering the time and effort you are putting into rebutting anything I post, I'm not the one with an issue about insecurity.

 

50+ years working experience and responds to someone with "blah blah blah."

 

Either you're lying and you're actually 13, or you never matured past age 13.