Power button not working right

[Triggerfish]

My computer worked 100% and it still does work but lately when i turned on my computer by pressing the power button it only turns on the rgb but doesn't send signal to screen so then i have to press again to turn it off and again to turn it back on and then it gives signal to the monitor and i don't know why it is but it didn't normally do that it only started doing it this last 3 days 

[OddOod]

Specs?

 

[Robchil]

1 hour ago, Triggerfish said:

My computer worked 100% and it still does work but lately when i turned on my computer by pressing the power button it only turns on the rgb but doesn't send signal to screen so then i have to press again to turn it off and again to turn it back on and then it gives signal to the monitor and i don't know why it is but it didn't normally do that it only started doing it this last 3 days 

..... so your power button IS working.. 

what did you do 3-4 days ago that can have changed this?. 

have you had windows updates? 

have you installed drivers? 

did you change something physically to the system? 

 

[Cramig88]

Is there a q-code thing on the motherboard?  Some have them, I think it should be standard for all motherboards.

If not does it “beep beep” or something on POST?

have you taken it apart or replaced/added anything?  I assume not

try resetting the bios first. Many boards have a flashback button, just bop it when it’s off and plugged in. Lights will go off and seconds later turn on again (my button is illuminated)

if no button *sigh* look for the circle battery in there. It’s in the motherboard, use a pokey to pop it out. It’ll be a squeeze but it’s possible. Wait I dono five minutes with power going to motherboard on

then shove your hand in there, slice it up on the pokey soldering points and give it a shot

from there, pray. It’s the easiest fix should it work

 

if not?  Here we go!

Since the rgb is working, somewhat of a good sign. Means your board is getting power, but maybe not enough anymore to the cpu or otherwise. Possible but not likely as they’re warranty is typically ten years. Many replace their devices before then

 unfortunately I’d say the most direct solution would be to strip her down. Start with the easiest and work down. 4 sticks of ram?  Just use two and try A (one empty in between), no good?  Try B. Then try the other sticks and take out the inserted pair. 
still no good?  Leave the ram how it is (2 sticks) and take out the GPU. Assuming your motherboard has onboard, it’ll default to that.

Hopefully that’ll get her to POST and all that goodness. Well, somewhat hopefully…. Gpus are expensive but it might be a good excuse for an upgrade?

now that there’s room in the case to fiddle around, check the connections. If your cpu has an empty slot next to it, no harm in running another - it’s basically there for auxiliary power, cpu needs more it’ll get it. Less strain on the existing cable too. Then just leave it in there, no reason not to

you can skip messing with the hard drive(s) and or NVMe - you’ll post regardless. Hopefully it does and if there’s an issue with a drive (again, wouldn’t keep it from posting let alone the bios popping up) it’ll say so. All pc’s do a SMART test to ensure they’re ok. Although BIOS is usually set to “short” by default. Still, it’ll throw an error or warning

if your onboard output still isn’t popping anything up try unplugging anything from the system - specifically USB. Some reason my pc will behave like yours if I have my usb plugged in upon post. Not sure why, funny enough it has all my BIOS backups on there. Perhaps I should move the data to a different stick…

if we’re *still* a no go, assuming all cables have been double checked (monitor) use another pc/laptop/console to verify the monitor is happy. Heck, while you’re at it might as well swap inputs too - couldn’t hurt. Change input on monitor also. Just to rule out the monitor as problematic, isn’t likely but it’s possible like anything else.

still dead in the water?  Well now ya got two options left and neither are much fun. Do whatever ya like first

-replace the cpu or use a donor. Just make sure to pull off the clear plastic on the cpu first, it happens lol

-replace the power supply, too much wattage is never a problem, too little, errrr not good. At least they’re cheap, roughly 80 bucks for 800w-1000w depending on brand and such. Also since your pc is a skeleton by now, if you’d like, unplug any SATA drives and take out the motherboard. Bench it with the same steps presuming all is good. That’s your choice, just keep in mind sometimes mounting screws are hidden or hard to find. Hidden I mean, under a NVMe or under the heat sink for the NVMe. Don’t yank the thing out, might have missed a screw. If not, pull the board gently towards the front of the case - the IO panel on the back serves 2 purposes. It’s a fun place to plug stuff in, keyboard etc, and it also supports the board in times like these. At least just enough to shove the screws back in later

still no go?  Yikes. Yet again ensure everything’s plugged into the board and power supply completely - the cords click when all is well

dont forget the gpu, or pci slot, has a little f*king tab that locks the device in place. I’d your looking at it with the back to the left and front to the right, that little guy will be on the right parallel to the pci slot. I get a small screwdriver, follow the lane from left to right and when it stops there’s that little guy. Give him a little poke and it should click, some do some don’t, regardless you’ll feel it “give” as in the pokey tool has tension and boop, suddenly your pokey goes in maybe a quarter inch?  I’m not good with estimating that, might be less. Once it’s unlatched you’ll know. A flashlight helps too. Personally I use a small one since I don’t have three arms and hands. Easier than sucking on a mag light while you’re looking around for that stupid thing.  And the obvious, unscrew it from the case lol. Then just pull it outta the socket with a little force. It’ll give, if not the latch is still holding it. Don’t force it!

*sigh* assuming you’ve tried narrowing it down as such, could be the motherboard as a last resort. At that point, your call. Replace it (just make sure it’s the right socket for your cpu, intels are LGA-numbers, amd is AMsomethibg). Since it’s nice and smelly, take a good whiff and enjoy the smell of fresh board. Then bench it, shove the power lines in and try out that workhorse of a CPU. Just keep in mind where that yellow arrow is in relation to the near impossible to see one on the board. Don’t forget to plug in a fan in the “cpu fan” header, it won’t post without it. A dew builds ago I learned the hard way. Did all the steps above, wouldn’t work. What the buns?  Stripped her down to realize my dumbass forgot to plug in the fan (slaps myself)

or buy a new pc, yep…. Prices these days, sometimes it’s cheaper to get a pre built. Gotta figure a solid gpu is 800-2000 (thanks Nvidia, 4090 is nice but two grand hurts) meanwhile a new pc with a 4000 series or 3000, or amd 6700, has a very competitive price point. Personally I’d rip it out the box and get straight to watercooling. If you’re comfortable with taking off heat sinks and plastic shrouds, why not?  Once that case is closed up, no need to mess with it, books closed

should you replace the board I’d highly recommend purchasing one that has a q-code readout. That’s why it was my first question. If there’s a problem during post, that handy little guy will spit out a 2 character code. I dono 6D, 7F, making those up, you get the idea. Bust out the manual/good old google and find out what it’s complaining about

itll say anything from pci problem (maybe gpu isn’t in properly) to ram issues, even cpu fan not present. Easier than deciphering Morse code and googling - keep in mind most boards beep the same codes for the same issue, I wouldn’t know cause I only use ASUS/rog

good luck!  Keep anti static bags away from children or curious cats!  In fact save them since ya never know when you’ll have a spare part and a safe place to put it

and get a better power strip. I’ve noticed my pc acts all wonky when I’m over clocking or not. That’s dirty power, random fluctuations in voltage. Power supply usually cleans it up but for ~$30?  Worth the investment

oh and power supplies?  Seasonic, I never use anything but. Just don’t take shortcuts and NOT swap the power lines - it absolutely will not work. Also you can get (blank) cable extensions. Really cheap, extremely handy considering the cpu power is allllllll the way up there on the top left. Try “stretching” a 18 inch set of cables through the bottom and up the back and back in that stupid corner to which the case typically has the dumb ass frame covering the power input

if your motherboard power cable is all stupid (180 degree bend) and the cable is a b!tch getting thru the case, consider a 90 degree adapter. 
maybe 10 bucks or less on Amazon. It’s a lifesaver especiallly if your water cooling. It’s easier to snap out and shove your power jumper (included w the power supply) in. Especially if your OCD and your cables are all zip tied nice and tidy

Good luck buddy

make sure the power supply is flicked to on, yeah forgot that before too

oh and since PSUs last so long and are reliable, watch prices. I picked up a 1000w for like 120 I think?  Then I got a 4090 and to my surprise, a 1500w seasonic for 90 bucks!  Checked a week later, double the price. New too, not used (used is fine also, in this instance the new was cheaper than the used)

 

my rig as of now, always swapping parts lol

-crosshair 7 motherboard

-amd 5900x cpu (am4), 12/24 (cores/threads)

-64g ram, 4 DIMMS at 3600 and 16CL

-8 SSDs, all Samsung 870 (970?) evo’s or eqo?  Whatever the expensive ones

-2 nvmes, 2tb each, Kingston furies. I had the Samsung 970s but I was never informed of a firmware update that prevents all your data being wiped. Anyway kingstons had (at the time) the fastest read/write speeds on the market

-strix 4090 OC, yep the 24g sunshine of my life. It’ll smear any other card that exists - check the specs!  It’s at least double everything the 3080 has

-amd xfx 6700 XT, 12g

-Nvidia quadro 4000 8g

Everything’s water cooled, custom loop obviously. Custom water block for the motherboard, ekwb makes it so that lead me to the crosshair board, 4090 and 6700 mono blocks

-500ml d5 (right?) pump, think it’s Corsair? Forget cause I have like 4 of em in my closet “graveyard” of parts

-silver Corsair fittings, an ungodly amount equal to the price. They ain’t cheap, plus a buncha 90s cause there’s a lotta sh!t in that case, crammed actually

-standard plastic bendy tubing. I hate that hard stuff, reconfigure your loop and ya gotta drain everything and make new lines

-1500w seasonic from Australia, platinum 80. Not sure why but the EU versions have a better sustainable wattage. Google it, true. Then of course the EU (from psu) to US cable. Not sure what gauge but the sucker is thick as my 200ft extension cables for work

-thermal take T71 case. Had a dynamic O11 but that was way too small

-2x 360mm by 60mm radiators, 2 thin 360s, a 140 slim, plus a 140x60 under my pump, maybe another I’d have to look

-14x thwrmaltake somethubg or other fans. Think they’re 2400 or 2800 rpm max. No rgb, say the least they RIP, I go 100% and my cats fur gets sucked in - kinda like a blow dryer

-all way overclocked, ram is at 2600. Had to fiddle around a lot, all cores at 4.7ghz sustained and stable at 50c. Don’t remember with the gpus, the memory is underclocked giving me more headroom for the gpu itself

oh and it’s connected to my receiver, so 5.1 surround. K70 Corsair keyboard

then I’d that wasn’t enough, a Samsung g9 and two ASUS or Msi v32 something’s. Whatever model has 120hz, not 145. The specs were better not to mention ghosting in games isn’t noticeable The pair are mounted above the G9

hey why not?  Massive g9 with an awesome curve, then two curved 32” monitors side by side right above it?  Sure!

-no RGB aside from all the water blocks as they came with it

-UV fluid, clear when off, glows when on

-2 12” strips of actual black lights, had to mod them cause they’re daisy chained now. They’re powered by molex, just stripped the wire, tossed the usb power, then trial and error with the 3 wires.  All nicely soldered and shrinked to look super clean

got a spare 6600 but no pci slots I can use. The 1x is buried under the 6700 otherwise I’d use the 1x to 16x adapter I got off Amazon

yeah 2 years in the making and cramming it all in there, finally shut the case the other day

good luck!

[Cramig88]

7 minutes ago, Cramig88 said:

Is there a q-code thing on the motherboard?  Some have them, I think it should be standard for all motherboards.

If not does it “beep beep” or something on POST?

have you taken it apart or replaced/added anything?  I assume not

try resetting the bios first. Many boards have a flashback button, just bop it when it’s off and plugged in. Lights will go off and seconds later turn on again (my button is illuminated)

if no button *sigh* look for the circle battery in there. It’s in the motherboard, use a pokey to pop it out. It’ll be a squeeze but it’s possible. Wait I dono five minutes with power going to motherboard on

then shove your hand in there, slice it up on the pokey soldering points and give it a shot

from there, pray. It’s the easiest fix should it work

 

if not?  Here we go!

Since the rgb is working, somewhat of a good sign. Means your board is getting power, but maybe not enough anymore to the cpu or otherwise. Possible but not likely as they’re warranty is typically ten years. Many replace their devices before then

 unfortunately I’d say the most direct solution would be to strip her down. Start with the easiest and work down. 4 sticks of ram?  Just use two and try A (one empty in between), no good?  Try B. Then try the other sticks and take out the inserted pair. 
still no good?  Leave the ram how it is (2 sticks) and take out the GPU. Assuming your motherboard has onboard, it’ll default to that.

Hopefully that’ll get her to POST and all that goodness. Well, somewhat hopefully…. Gpus are expensive but it might be a good excuse for an upgrade?

now that there’s room in the case to fiddle around, check the connections. If your cpu has an empty slot next to it, no harm in running another - it’s basically there for auxiliary power, cpu needs more it’ll get it. Less strain on the existing cable too. Then just leave it in there, no reason not to

you can skip messing with the hard drive(s) and or NVMe - you’ll post regardless. Hopefully it does and if there’s an issue with a drive (again, wouldn’t keep it from posting let alone the bios popping up) it’ll say so. All pc’s do a SMART test to ensure they’re ok. Although BIOS is usually set to “short” by default. Still, it’ll throw an error or warning

if your onboard output still isn’t popping anything up try unplugging anything from the system - specifically USB. Some reason my pc will behave like yours if I have my usb plugged in upon post. Not sure why, funny enough it has all my BIOS backups on there. Perhaps I should move the data to a different stick…

if we’re *still* a no go, assuming all cables have been double checked (monitor) use another pc/laptop/console to verify the monitor is happy. Heck, while you’re at it might as well swap inputs too - couldn’t hurt. Change input on monitor also. Just to rule out the monitor as problematic, isn’t likely but it’s possible like anything else.

still dead in the water?  Well now ya got two options left and neither are much fun. Do whatever ya like first

-replace the cpu or use a donor. Just make sure to pull off the clear plastic on the cpu first, it happens lol

-replace the power supply, too much wattage is never a problem, too little, errrr not good. At least they’re cheap, roughly 80 bucks for 800w-1000w depending on brand and such. Also since your pc is a skeleton by now, if you’d like, unplug any SATA drives and take out the motherboard. Bench it with the same steps presuming all is good. That’s your choice, just keep in mind sometimes mounting screws are hidden or hard to find. Hidden I mean, under a NVMe or under the heat sink for the NVMe. Don’t yank the thing out, might have missed a screw. If not, pull the board gently towards the front of the case - the IO panel on the back serves 2 purposes. It’s a fun place to plug stuff in, keyboard etc, and it also supports the board in times like these. At least just enough to shove the screws back in later

still no go?  Yikes. Yet again ensure everything’s plugged into the board and power supply completely - the cords click when all is well

dont forget the gpu, or pci slot, has a little f*king tab that locks the device in place. I’d your looking at it with the back to the left and front to the right, that little guy will be on the right parallel to the pci slot. I get a small screwdriver, follow the lane from left to right and when it stops there’s that little guy. Give him a little poke and it should click, some do some don’t, regardless you’ll feel it “give” as in the pokey tool has tension and boop, suddenly your pokey goes in maybe a quarter inch?  I’m not good with estimating that, might be less. Once it’s unlatched you’ll know. A flashlight helps too. Personally I use a small one since I don’t have three arms and hands. Easier than sucking on a mag light while you’re looking around for that stupid thing.  And the obvious, unscrew it from the case lol. Then just pull it outta the socket with a little force. It’ll give, if not the latch is still holding it. Don’t force it!

*sigh* assuming you’ve tried narrowing it down as such, could be the motherboard as a last resort. At that point, your call. Replace it (just make sure it’s the right socket for your cpu, intels are LGA-numbers, amd is AMsomethibg). Since it’s nice and smelly, take a good whiff and enjoy the smell of fresh board. Then bench it, shove the power lines in and try out that workhorse of a CPU. Just keep in mind where that yellow arrow is in relation to the near impossible to see one on the board. Don’t forget to plug in a fan in the “cpu fan” header, it won’t post without it. A dew builds ago I learned the hard way. Did all the steps above, wouldn’t work. What the buns?  Stripped her down to realize my dumbass forgot to plug in the fan (slaps myself)

or buy a new pc, yep…. Prices these days, sometimes it’s cheaper to get a pre built. Gotta figure a solid gpu is 800-2000 (thanks Nvidia, 4090 is nice but two grand hurts) meanwhile a new pc with a 4000 series or 3000, or amd 6700, has a very competitive price point. Personally I’d rip it out the box and get straight to watercooling. If you’re comfortable with taking off heat sinks and plastic shrouds, why not?  Once that case is closed up, no need to mess with it, books closed

should you replace the board I’d highly recommend purchasing one that has a q-code readout. That’s why it was my first question. If there’s a problem during post, that handy little guy will spit out a 2 character code. I dono 6D, 7F, making those up, you get the idea. Bust out the manual/good old google and find out what it’s complaining about

itll say anything from pci problem (maybe gpu isn’t in properly) to ram issues, even cpu fan not present. Easier than deciphering Morse code and googling - keep in mind most boards beep the same codes for the same issue, I wouldn’t know cause I only use ASUS/rog

good luck!  Keep anti static bags away from children or curious cats!  In fact save them since ya never know when you’ll have a spare part and a safe place to put it

and get a better power strip. I’ve noticed my pc acts all wonky when I’m over clocking or not. That’s dirty power, random fluctuations in voltage. Power supply usually cleans it up but for ~$30?  Worth the investment

oh and power supplies?  Seasonic, I never use anything but. Just don’t take shortcuts and NOT swap the power lines - it absolutely will not work. Also you can get (blank) cable extensions. Really cheap, extremely handy considering the cpu power is allllllll the way up there on the top left. Try “stretching” a 18 inch set of cables through the bottom and up the back and back in that stupid corner to which the case typically has the dumb ass frame covering the power input

if your motherboard power cable is all stupid (180 degree bend) and the cable is a b!tch getting thru the case, consider a 90 degree adapter. 
maybe 10 bucks or less on Amazon. It’s a lifesaver especiallly if your water cooling. It’s easier to snap out and shove your power jumper (included w the power supply) in. Especially if your OCD and your cables are all zip tied nice and tidy

Good luck buddy

make sure the power supply is flicked to on, yeah forgot that before too

oh and since PSUs last so long and are reliable, watch prices. I picked up a 1000w for like 120 I think?  Then I got a 4090 and to my surprise, a 1500w seasonic for 90 bucks!  Checked a week later, double the price. New too, not used (used is fine also, in this instance the new was cheaper than the used)

 

my rig as of now, always swapping parts lol

-crosshair 7 motherboard

-amd 5900x cpu (am4), 12/24 (cores/threads)

-64g ram, 4 DIMMS at 3600 and 16CL

-8 SSDs, all Samsung 870 (970?) evo’s or eqo?  Whatever the expensive ones

-2 nvmes, 2tb each, Kingston furies. I had the Samsung 970s but I was never informed of a firmware update that prevents all your data being wiped. Anyway kingstons had (at the time) the fastest read/write speeds on the market

-strix 4090 OC, yep the 24g sunshine of my life. It’ll smear any other card that exists - check the specs!  It’s at least double everything the 3080 has

-amd xfx 6700 XT, 12g

-Nvidia quadro 4000 8g

Everything’s water cooled, custom loop obviously. Custom water block for the motherboard, ekwb makes it so that lead me to the crosshair board, 4090 and 6700 mono blocks

-500ml d5 (right?) pump, think it’s Corsair? Forget cause I have like 4 of em in my closet “graveyard” of parts

-silver Corsair fittings, an ungodly amount equal to the price. They ain’t cheap, plus a buncha 90s cause there’s a lotta sh!t in that case, crammed actually

-standard plastic bendy tubing. I hate that hard stuff, reconfigure your loop and ya gotta drain everything and make new lines

-1500w seasonic from Australia, platinum 80. Not sure why but the EU versions have a better sustainable wattage. Google it, true. Then of course the EU (from psu) to US cable. Not sure what gauge but the sucker is thick as my 200ft extension cables for work

-thermal take T71 case. Had a dynamic O11 but that was way too small

-2x 360mm by 60mm radiators, 2 thin 360s, a 140 slim, plus a 140x60 under my pump, maybe another I’d have to look

-14x thwrmaltake somethubg or other fans. Think they’re 2400 or 2800 rpm max. No rgb, say the least they RIP, I go 100% and my cats fur gets sucked in - kinda like a blow dryer

-all way overclocked, ram is at 2600. Had to fiddle around a lot, all cores at 4.7ghz sustained and stable at 50c. Don’t remember with the gpus, the memory is underclocked giving me more headroom for the gpu itself

oh and it’s connected to my receiver, so 5.1 surround. K70 Corsair keyboard

then I’d that wasn’t enough, a Samsung g9 and two ASUS or Msi v32 something’s. Whatever model has 120hz, not 145. The specs were better not to mention ghosting in games isn’t noticeable The pair are mounted above the G9

hey why not?  Massive g9 with an awesome curve, then two curved 32” monitors side by side right above it?  Sure!

-no RGB aside from all the water blocks as they came with it

-UV fluid, clear when off, glows when on

-2 12” strips of actual black lights, had to mod them cause they’re daisy chained now. They’re powered by molex, just stripped the wire, tossed the usb power, then trial and error with the 3 wires.  All nicely soldered and shrinked to look super clean

got a spare 6600 but no pci slots I can use. The 1x is buried under the 6700 otherwise I’d use the 1x to 16x adapter I got off Amazon

yeah 2 years in the making and cramming it all in there, finally shut the case the other day

good luck!

Oh, don’t forget to unplug it before any of that

only including “duh” instructions cause I dono how affluent you are. Plus even pro’s make dumb mistakes and waste tons of time when it could just be a fan not plugged into a header

lol. Just sayin

if ya end up doing brain surgery and messing with the cpu - ALWAYS clean off the old paste with isopropyl (I use that, paper towels and an electric toothbrush). While you’re at it, upon replacing or swapping, use the good sh!t in terms of paste. I use cryonaut. Same goes if ya decide to watercool. Use good thermal pads and play arts and crafts - cover stuff that wasn’t too. Couldn’t hurt. And never use straight water or antifreeze in a loop. Distilled, DISTILLED will be fine, I don’t recommmend dyes cause it’ll stain everything over time. Don’t use flaky liquid either, tons of reasons but one less problem to worry about should you encounter one.  That opaque stuff?  Nope

consider a distro block too, makes running the loop a hell of a lot easier. “Ok this goes to this… then I’ll go to this… then that… ah shoot now I forgot which direction the waters gonna flow”

anyway I’d your gonna go thru all this work, might as well do it proper cause ya won’t be playing with PCBs for a second time. Might as well just clean/repaste your stuff while the junks out anyway. I’ve had plenty of devices that suddenly didn’t work or progressively got slower. Sure enough I take off the heat sink and that craps all dried and crusty. Repaste and literally good as new or better. Sounds minor but worth the effort. Just don’t forget to plug the gpu fan in when putting ut back together. Take your time, take breaks, maybe wait a day or something in between. There’s NO rush, and rushing typically causes simple mistakes. Frustration too lol, that damn pci latch be the death of me!