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My pc

 

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/ZcxhYN

 

I have been having games lag and pc turn off. It's the 750x PSU.

 

I am going to upgrade but want to know, should I buy the 850 or 1000.

 

I am planning to buy the rm1000x shift. It has ATX 3.0 and it's good. Great result and review.

 

Should I buy the 850 or 1000. There's an offer on right now 20%off.

 

Thanks.

 

😗😗💖💖

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31 minutes ago, racerz1 said:

My pc

 

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/ZcxhYN

 

I have been having games lag and pc turn off. It's the 750x PSU.

 

I am going to upgrade but want to know, should I buy the 850 or 1000.

 

I am planning to buy the rm1000x shift. It has ATX 3.0 and it's good. Great result and review.

 

Should I buy the 850 or 1000. There's an offer on right now 20%off.

 

Thanks.

 

😗😗💖💖

How old is the psu? It's not necessarily the psu. Try doing all your windows, bios and driver updates first. But the rm1000x shift would be the best out of the two 

Message me on discord (bread8669) for more help 

Quote me if you want me to get notified

 

Current parts listPCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor  (Purchased For £175.00) 
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  (Purchased For £0.00) 
Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  (Purchased For £144.99) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  (Purchased For £89.99) 
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For £0.00) 
Storage: Kingston A400 960 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For £0.00) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GAMING OC Radeon RX 7800 XT 16 GB Video Card  (Purchased For £448.99) 
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 205M MESH MicroATX Mini Tower Case  (Purchased For £82.98) 
Power Supply: MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For £99.00) 
Total: £1040.95

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

Damn this space can fit a 5090 (just kidding, it needs more)

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12 minutes ago, filpo said:

How old is the psu? It's not necessarily the psu. Try doing all your windows, bios and driver updates first. But the rm1000x shift would be the best out of the two 

Yeah I rather have my doubts on the PSU being a problem unless its quite old, but then if it was still in warranty you could RMA it and see if they find a problem.

 

I've ran an RTX 3080 on an RM650x without issues and the 4080 doesn't have the high transient problem of the 3080.  I also run a 4090 on an RM850x with a 5950X.

ASUS B650E-F GAMING WIFI + R7 7800X3D + 2x Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL30-36-36-76  + ASUS RTX 4090 TUF Gaming OC

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) Backup: GL.iNet GL-X3000/ Spitz AX Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz) WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz)
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~1200Mbit down, 115Mbit up, variable)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

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29 minutes ago, filpo said:

How old is the psu? It's not necessarily the psu. Try doing all your windows, bios and driver updates first. But the rm1000x shift would be the best out of the two 

Yea idk what it was. I have all my things updated. I spent hours looking into everything to see if they were the latest version. I play PUBG and my pc restarts when i play that game. Everyday at least once. Quite Annoying to be fair.

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2 minutes ago, racerz1 said:

Yea idk what it was. I have all my things updated. I spent hours looking into everything to see if they were the latest version. I play PUBG and my pc restarts when i play that game. Everyday at least once. Quite Annoying to be fair.

Only with PUBG? Check your cpu usage as well as temps in game. How old is the PSU?

Message me on discord (bread8669) for more help 

Quote me if you want me to get notified

 

Current parts listPCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor  (Purchased For £175.00) 
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  (Purchased For £0.00) 
Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  (Purchased For £144.99) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  (Purchased For £89.99) 
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For £0.00) 
Storage: Kingston A400 960 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For £0.00) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GAMING OC Radeon RX 7800 XT 16 GB Video Card  (Purchased For £448.99) 
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 205M MESH MicroATX Mini Tower Case  (Purchased For £82.98) 
Power Supply: MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For £99.00) 
Total: £1040.95

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

Damn this space can fit a 5090 (just kidding, it needs more)

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4 minutes ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

Yeah I rather have my doubts on the PSU being a problem unless its quite old, but then if it was still in warranty you could RMA it and see if they find a problem.

 

I've ran an RTX 3080 on an RM650x without issues and the 4080 doesn't have the high transient problem of the 3080.  I also run a 4090 on an RM850x with a 5950X.

I built my PC in 2019. I have the Corsair RM750X. So I'm thinking it is 2019 version or the 2018.

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2 minutes ago, filpo said:

Only with PUBG? Check your cpu usage as well as temps in game. How old is the PSU?

Its either the 2018 or 2019 version of RM750x. The CPU load and the GPU load is fine. That's the thing. I tired looking up for some solutions, nothing.

 

I once thought it was my RAM or RAM slots but I don't crash when just surfing the net and stuff.

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1 minute ago, racerz1 said:

once thought it was my RAM or RAM slots but I don't crash when just surfing the net and stuff.

try reseating the ram, cpu and gpu. Also the power connectors on the motherboard

Message me on discord (bread8669) for more help 

Quote me if you want me to get notified

 

Current parts listPCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor  (Purchased For £175.00) 
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  (Purchased For £0.00) 
Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  (Purchased For £144.99) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  (Purchased For £89.99) 
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For £0.00) 
Storage: Kingston A400 960 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For £0.00) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GAMING OC Radeon RX 7800 XT 16 GB Video Card  (Purchased For £448.99) 
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 205M MESH MicroATX Mini Tower Case  (Purchased For £82.98) 
Power Supply: MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For £99.00) 
Total: £1040.95

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

Damn this space can fit a 5090 (just kidding, it needs more)

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13 minutes ago, racerz1 said:

I built my PC in 2019. I have the Corsair RM750X. So I'm thinking it is 2019 version or the 2018.

You could also grab the official Premium 12VHWPR cable, its better than the cable that comes supplied with their ATX 3.0 version of their PSUs.  I don't like the weight of the adapters of the socket, or how stiff their standard cable is.

They don't actually HAVE real ATX 3.0 PSUs (which is not a problem as it only adds the ability to automatically limit power output if you have two 600W cables plugged into a PSU that is less than 1200W), they just bundled in the standard cable their older models use.

ASUS B650E-F GAMING WIFI + R7 7800X3D + 2x Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL30-36-36-76  + ASUS RTX 4090 TUF Gaming OC

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) Backup: GL.iNet GL-X3000/ Spitz AX Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz) WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz)
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~1200Mbit down, 115Mbit up, variable)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

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5 hours ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

You could also grab the official Premium 12VHWPR cable, its better than the cable that comes supplied with their ATX 3.0 version of their PSUs.  I don't like the weight of the adapters of the socket, or how stiff their standard cable is.

They don't actually HAVE real ATX 3.0 PSUs (which is not a problem as it only adds the ability to automatically limit power output if you have two 600W cables plugged into a PSU that is less than 1200W), they just bundled in the standard cable their older models use.

Ahhhh. I only recently found out about the ATX 3.0 yesterday through the PSU tier list website and thought the concept was amazing.

 

Ohh and people multiply their wattage usage in the PCPartPicker by like 1.5 or something? Is this something that's legit?

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3 hours ago, racerz1 said:

Ahhhh. I only recently found out about the ATX 3.0 yesterday through the PSU tier list website and thought the concept was amazing.

 

Ohh and people multiply their wattage usage in the PCPartPicker by like 1.5 or something? Is this something that's legit?

The reason for going higher is to have a safety margin as pushing a PSU to 100% is likely to wear it out faster due to it being less efficient and creating more heat.  So generally you aim for somewhere between 60-80% load.  Also as a PSU ages its likely to find it harder to maintain a stable output at a high load, if you keep it somewhere in the middle its a win win as its likely you will get a lot more years out of it.

 

In the real world, I haven't seen my 7800X3D + 4090 + 55" OLED TV combined really go over 650W from the wall, and PSU ratings are their output, what they pull from the wall to achieve that would be higher.

As I said earlier, I've pushed my luck many times, usually with no issues.  The 3080 however was fine on an RM650x but the PC would randomly shut down on a Cooler Master Mastercool 650W.

ASUS B650E-F GAMING WIFI + R7 7800X3D + 2x Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL30-36-36-76  + ASUS RTX 4090 TUF Gaming OC

Router:  Intel N100 (pfSense) Backup: GL.iNet GL-X3000/ Spitz AX Switches: Netgear MS510TXUP, MS510TXPP, GS110EMX
WiFi6: Zyxel NWA210AX (1.7Gbit peak at 160Mhz) WiFi5: Ubiquiti NanoHD OpenWRT (~500Mbit at 80Mhz)
ISPs: Zen Full Fibre 900 (~930Mbit down, 115Mbit up) + Three 5G (~1200Mbit down, 115Mbit up, variable)
Upgrading Laptop/Desktop CNVIo WiFi 5 cards to PCIe WiFi6e/7

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On 1/15/2024 at 10:08 PM, Alex Atkin UK said:

The reason for going higher is to have a safety margin as pushing a PSU to 100% is likely to wear it out faster due to it being less efficient and creating more heat.  So generally you aim for somewhere between 60-80% load.  Also as a PSU ages its likely to find it harder to maintain a stable output at a high load, if you keep it somewhere in the middle its a win win as its likely you will get a lot more years out of it.

 

In the real world, I haven't seen my 7800X3D + 4090 + 55" OLED TV combined really go over 650W from the wall, and PSU ratings are their output, what they pull from the wall to achieve that would be higher.

As I said earlier, I've pushed my luck many times, usually with no issues.  The 3080 however was fine on an RM650x but the PC would randomly shut down on a Cooler Master Mastercool 650W.

Amazing! thanks man!

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