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Built this rig back in 2019 and had little to no issues with it. As of 9/30 I've been having a odd issue, maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

 

I was playing Cyberpunk 2077. At some point my screens would freeze for a second, then go black. A few seconds later I would get the "no input" message and my monitors turn off. My PC still has power as the RGB on the parts/ mouse and keyboard are still lit up. 

One of two things happen next:

  1. PC stays that way until I turn it off. Hitting the front power button, keys, mouse buttons does nothing. Have to flip the switch on PSU.
  2. PC reboots and goes back to login screen.

 

Windows and graphics Drivers are up to date, no change

Cleaned PC, no change

Installed openhardwaremonitor to track temps when playing. CPU and GPU temps within range.

All 16GB's of ram is showing

Doesn't do this while watching Youtube. Didn't trigger when playing Fallout 4 or Armored Core VI for an hour each.

 

Haven't tried reseating the graphics card. Would that work?

 

 

My specs are:

  • Windows 10 Home
  • ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F (1105 x64. I'm assuming this is the latest BIOS. Couldn't find any BIOS downloads on website)
  • Intel i7-8700k (Stock)
  • 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro (Auto)
  • EVGA 2080Ti Black Edition (stock)
  • Samsung 970 EVO M.2 2280 500GB boot drive
  • Samsung 970 EVO M.2 2280 500GB storage drive
  • Corsair RM750 (750W 80 Gold+)
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1 hour ago, Hydraengineer said:

...

 

 

My specs are:

  • Windows 10 Home
  • ASUS ROG Strix Z390-F (1105 x64. I'm assuming this is the latest BIOS. Couldn't find any BIOS downloads on website)
  • Intel i7-8700k (Stock)
  • 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro (Auto)
  • EVGA 2080Ti Black Edition (stock)
  • Samsung 970 EVO M.2 2280 500GB boot drive
  • Samsung 970 EVO M.2 2280 500GB storage drive
  • Corsair RM750 (750W 80 Gold+)

Severely outdated Bios

https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-z390-f-gaming-model/helpdesk_bios/

 

A low amount of RAM (wouldn't cause a crash though).

 

The PSU might barely be enough. I would start by measuring the power draw of the system.

 

Does it crash when you do Prime95 stress test + Furmark? Or the PSU test in OCCT?

 

Edit:

image.png.7cc4b6fb29cd9dd49c2bb19b7656e8a2.png

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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11 hours ago, 191x7 said:

Severely outdated Bios

https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-z390-f-gaming-model/helpdesk_bios/

 

A low amount of RAM (wouldn't cause a crash though).

 

The PSU might barely be enough. I would start by measuring the power draw of the system.

 

Does it crash when you do Prime95 stress test + Furmark? Or the PSU test in OCCT?

 

Edit:

image.png.7cc4b6fb29cd9dd49c2bb19b7656e8a2.png

Derp, missed the OS selection. That's why I couldn't see the downloads.

At the time, 16GB was enough for my gaming needs. 

According to Newegg's PSU calculator I need 600-699W. Even though I run everything at stock speeds, I should've went higher than 750W?

 

Didn't update BIOS and went into testing.

 

Ran Prime for 28 min, no crashes or errors.

 

PC crashed during Furmark and OOCT 

 

Furmark: 1st test ran for a few min with no issues. Stopped and re-ran it. Screens turned off and on and the window (that shows the visualization) turned white. Didn't reboot. Stopped it again and re-ran it. This time the screens turned off and the PC rebooted. Re-ran it the screens turned off and on, the window turned white, and again didn't reboot.

 

OOCT: 2 seconds into test and the screens turned off and PC rebooted.

 

Would the BIOS update fix this or does this sound more like a PSU issue?

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4 hours ago, Hydraengineer said:

Derp, missed the OS selection. That's why I couldn't see the downloads.

At the time, 16GB was enough for my gaming needs. 

According to Newegg's PSU calculator I need 600-699W. Even though I run everything at stock speeds, I should've went higher than 750W?

 

Didn't update BIOS and went into testing.

 

Ran Prime for 28 min, no crashes or errors.

 

PC crashed during Furmark and OOCT 

 

Furmark: 1st test ran for a few min with no issues. Stopped and re-ran it. Screens turned off and on and the window (that shows the visualization) turned white. Didn't reboot. Stopped it again and re-ran it. This time the screens turned off and the PC rebooted. Re-ran it the screens turned off and on, the window turned white, and again didn't reboot.

 

OOCT: 2 seconds into test and the screens turned off and PC rebooted.

 

Would the BIOS update fix this or does this sound more like a PSU issue?

If Furmark crashes, it's more of a GPU issue.

 

But still, update the bios and retest. It's free.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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10 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

If Furmark crashes, it's more of a GPU issue.

 

But still, update the bios and retest. It's free.

Never updated a BIOS before.

I assume I copy it to a thumb drive and install it from there? Also do I need to install every update from my version to latest, or just the latest?

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3 hours ago, Hydraengineer said:

Never updated a BIOS before.

I assume I copy it to a thumb drive and install it from there? Also do I need to install every update from my version to latest, or just the latest?

Read the manual. There's info on how to update.

 

No, you do not need to flash older Bioses unless the Bios description tells you to (some Gigabyte boards, for example, state "In order to flash F41 you need to have F30 or newer" and that means if you're on F27 you need to do F30 and then F41).

 

 

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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4 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Read the manual. There's info on how to update.

 

No, you do not need to flash older Bioses unless the Bios description tells you to (some Gigabyte boards, for example, state "In order to flash F41 you need to have F30 or newer" and that means if you're on F27 you need to do F30 and then F41).

 

 

Went into the BIOS and found a EZ Update tool there. It updated to 1802, which is the 4th newest.

Was able to play CP2077 for a bit and it crashed again. So the update didn't help.

 

Starting to look like I need a new system.

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9 minutes ago, Hydraengineer said:

Went into the BIOS and found a EZ Update tool there. It updated to 1802, which is the 4th newest.

Was able to play CP2077 for a bit and it crashed again. So the update didn't help.

 

Starting to look like I need a new system.

Get the latest Bios first. Then we'll look for the next steps.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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On 10/2/2023 at 5:03 AM, 191x7 said:

Get the latest Bios first. Then we'll look for the next steps.

Seems like I can't do that anymore. Doesn't register my keystrokes when the prompt comes up to press F2 or del. Keyboard only activates a few seconds before the login screen. Missing the window to enter BIOS.

 

Maybe I have a bad motherboard or SSD?

 

Also it's crashing after boot. The ROG icon loads with the prompt to enter BIOS, then the windows' loading icon (the swirling dots). After that finishes, the screen goes black and the keyboard/mouse don't light up anymore and it just sits there. Have to hit power switch on PSU to shut down.

 

Well I took the card out and connected the motherboard to the monitor and its acting the same way.

Looks like a bad motherboard?

Edited by Hydraengineer
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6 minutes ago, Hydraengineer said:

One last bump. 

Anyone else have an idea. 

when in windows hold shift down and press the reboot button, it will then boot into troubleshooting mode, go to troubleshooting and advanced, or only the troubleshooting and find enter UEFI settings. (this is secure boot) . 

 

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22 hours ago, Robchil said:

when in windows hold shift down and press the reboot button, it will then boot into troubleshooting mode, go to troubleshooting and advanced, or only the troubleshooting and find enter UEFI settings. (this is secure boot) . 

 

Thanks for the help. That did help me get into the BIOS and update it.

 

Unfortunately updating didn't resolve the bigger issue. Also it still won't let me into the BIOS via keystroke. Guess my motherboard is screwed. 

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6 hours ago, Hydraengineer said:

. Also it still won't let me into the BIOS via keystroke. Guess my motherboard is screwed. 

no, that's secure boot default, demanded by win 11.. 

 

update bios and see how it is now.. 

i have strix z390-e board. a i9 9900k, two 2080ti's and two 960pro 500gig ssd's in stripe.. i would assume it's pretty similar looking. 

turned off any powersaving feature? 

 

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5 hours ago, Robchil said:

no, that's secure boot default, demanded by win 11.. 

You say that but when I applied the first BIOS update, I accessed the BIOS hitting the key during the prompt. After all, I didn't know about the workaround using the shift + click on restart method until you mentioned it. I'm using windows 10, not 11.

 

So unless I'm misunderstanding you, what you're saying doesn't make sense.

 

5 hours ago, Robchil said:

update bios and see how it is now..

I already did, I said...

12 hours ago, Hydraengineer said:

Thanks for the help. That did help me get into the BIOS and update it.

 

Unfortunately updating didn't resolve the bigger issue. Also it still won't let me into the BIOS via keystroke. Guess my motherboard is screwed. 

Used the method you mentioned and was able to apply the latest update. Didn't fix anything.

 

5 hours ago, Robchil said:

i have strix z390-e board. a i9 9900k, two 2080ti's and two 960pro 500gig ssd's in stripe.. i would assume it's pretty similar looking. 

turned off any powersaving feature? 

They look to be the same, the only difference I see is that yours has wi-fi.

Nope, I haven't messed with any settings. I left everything at stock, no overclocks/underclocks/overvolts/undervolts/etc. Been that way since I built the system.

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