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My First PC Build

Go to solution Solved by SyluxImmortal,

@PC HEROES

 

Final build after several budget cuts: 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Kztv6D

 

Actual build in the dark running with RGB setup using the built in controller (not the motherboard):

My PC

Budget (including currency): $2,000 USD (marginally flexible)

Country: US

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Diablo 4, Destiny 2, (heavily modded) Minecraft, Path of Exile (eventually poe2), game development, and temporary server hosting for Minecraft or in-development games... while also playing the games the server is hosted for.

Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Starting from scratch, but already own all items external to the tower itself. I would like to be buying it within a few months, but I am quite patient.

Monitors: I plan on using 2 monitors, which I already own. One is 1440p, the other is a small 1080p monitor. In the future I may upgrade the small monitor or otherwise connect a third.

Goal: I have been using an old Alienware laptop for many years and have decided to upgrade to a desktop. I have some experience taking apart or altering computers, but have never built one completely from scratch. I want a system that will last me a long time. I currently play on minimum settings for all games with frequent frame drops and would plan on using this desktop long after it reached a similar state, so I want stuff that will last and remain relevant for the longest time without buying the actual top of the line parts.

I was originally planning on just buying a system from starforged systems. This one specifically:
https://starforgesystems.com/products/horizon-ii-ultra

 

But I realized that I could just buy all the parts and put it together myself, and once I got that far I started swapping some items out for better parts, or just taking out stuff I didn't think was that important (2nd SSD). I believe it all works together, since I didn't even change that much, but I'm concerned I am spending too much on the motherboard for the benefit and could probably go down to like a Z760 or Z690 or something, but wasn't confident enough to do that without asking about it. I also tried upgrading to an i7, but the benefits of that didn't seem worth the price increase.

Part picker: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WfsLrv

(note that a few required cables might be missing that need purchased as well that aren't in the part picker link)

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5 minutes ago, SyluxImmortal said:

Budget (including currency): $2,000 USD (marginally flexible)

Country: US

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Diablo 4, Destiny 2, (heavily modded) Minecraft, Path of Exile (eventually poe2), game development, and temporary server hosting for Minecraft or in-development games... while also playing the games the server is hosted for.

Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Starting from scratch, but already own all items external to the tower itself. I would like to be buying it within a few months, but I am quite patient.

Monitors: I plan on using 2 monitors, which I already own. One is 1440p, the other is a small 1080p monitor. In the future I may upgrade the small monitor or otherwise connect a third.

Goal: I have been using an old Alienware laptop for many years and have decided to upgrade to a desktop. I have some experience taking apart or altering computers, but have never built one completely from scratch. I want a system that will last me a long time. I currently play on minimum settings for all games with frequent frame drops and would plan on using this desktop long after it reached a similar state, so I want stuff that will last and remain relevant for the longest time without buying the actual top of the line parts.

I was originally planning on just buying a system from starforged systems. This one specifically:
https://starforgesystems.com/products/horizon-ii-ultra

 

But I realized that I could just buy all the parts and put it together myself, and once I got that far I started swapping some items out for better parts, or just taking out stuff I didn't think was that important (2nd SSD). I believe it all works together, since I didn't even change that much, but I'm concerned I am spending too much on the motherboard for the benefit and could probably go down to like a Z760 or Z690 or something, but wasn't confident enough to do that without asking about it. I also tried upgrading to an i7, but the benefits of that didn't seem worth the price increase.

Part picker: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WfsLrv

(note that a few required cables might be missing that need purchased as well that aren't in the part picker link)

Everything looks really good!, i would recommend tough if you plan on using a 4070 ti that you get a 1000watt PSU because if you upgrade your CPU in the future it may cause you some problems like sudden shut downs or stuff like that, other than that i think it is a pretty great choice for your first build, good luck!

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The 120mm Arctic fan goes inside the back of that case for an exhaust fan.

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *Intel Core i7-13700F 2.1 GHz 16-Core Processor  ($349.99 @ Amazon) 
CPU Cooler: *Deepcool AG620 67.88 CFM CPU Cooler  ($49.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: *MSI B760 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($159.99 @ Amazon) 
Memory: *G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6400 CL32 Memory  ($104.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: *Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($99.99 @ Adorama) 
Video Card: *Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card  ($799.99 @ Newegg) 
Case: *Fractal Design Focus 2 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($79.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: *MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($139.99 @ Amazon) 
Operating System: *Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit  ($109.99 @ Newegg) 
Case Fan: *ARCTIC P12 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan  ($9.99 @ Amazon) 
Total: $1904.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-07-30 16:39 EDT-0400

 

A better look at that board, cpu, cooler and case.

 

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B760-GAMING-PLUS-WIFI  

 

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/230491/intel-core-i713700f-processor-30m-cache-up-to-5-20-ghz/specifications.html  

 

https://www.deepcool.com/products/Cooling/cpuaircoolers/GAMMAXX-AG620-Dual-Tower-CPU-Cooler-1700-AM5/2022/15900.shtml  

 

https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/focus/focus-2/black-tg-clear-tint/  

 

 

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28 minutes ago, SyluxImmortal said:

Budget (including currency): $2,000 USD (marginally flexible)

Country: US

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Diablo 4, Destiny 2, (heavily modded) Minecraft, Path of Exile (eventually poe2), game development, and temporary server hosting for Minecraft or in-development games... while also playing the games the server is hosted for.

Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Starting from scratch, but already own all items external to the tower itself. I would like to be buying it within a few months, but I am quite patient.

Monitors: I plan on using 2 monitors, which I already own. One is 1440p, the other is a small 1080p monitor. In the future I may upgrade the small monitor or otherwise connect a third.

Goal: I have been using an old Alienware laptop for many years and have decided to upgrade to a desktop. I have some experience taking apart or altering computers, but have never built one completely from scratch. I want a system that will last me a long time. I currently play on minimum settings for all games with frequent frame drops and would plan on using this desktop long after it reached a similar state, so I want stuff that will last and remain relevant for the longest time without buying the actual top of the line parts.

I was originally planning on just buying a system from starforged systems. This one specifically:
https://starforgesystems.com/products/horizon-ii-ultra

 

But I realized that I could just buy all the parts and put it together myself, and once I got that far I started swapping some items out for better parts, or just taking out stuff I didn't think was that important (2nd SSD). I believe it all works together, since I didn't even change that much, but I'm concerned I am spending too much on the motherboard for the benefit and could probably go down to like a Z760 or Z690 or something, but wasn't confident enough to do that without asking about it. I also tried upgrading to an i7, but the benefits of that didn't seem worth the price increase.

Part picker: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WfsLrv

(note that a few required cables might be missing that need purchased as well that aren't in the part picker link)

Hi... I was looking over your Build List and I made some changes.

 

1. I swapped out the AIO to a 360mm just in case that you ever decide to upgrade the CPU and the new one is about $10 cheaper.

 

2. I swapped out the Motherboard for a different one from Gigabyte that also has WiFi. Also saving $10.

 

3. I upgraded you to 2TB of M.2 Storage just because Games are getting really large in size and a 1TB just isn't enough anymore.

 

4. I changed the PC Case so that it's cheaper and it also comes with 3 RGB Fans and I also added 1 extra RGB Fan to replace the one in the Rear. The AIO will go on top of the Case.

 

5. I got you a 1000w PSU in case you upgrade the CPU and or the GPU.

 

6. I took out the Copy of Windows 11 you had and got you a Link to get a Key for only $28 so you don't have to pay over $100 for it.

 

I have been building PCs for 30 years so if you have any questions please ask.

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nvbLrv

 

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor  ($317.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: ID-COOLING ZOOMFLOW 360 XT  68.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 GAMING X AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($229.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: TEAMGROUP Cardea A440 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($95.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GAMING X TRIO GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card  ($834.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Montech AIR 903 MAX ATX Mid Tower Case  ($75.00 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RM1000e (2023) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($161.57 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 PST A-RGB 0dB 48.8 CFM 120 mm Fan  ($16.38 @ Amazon)
Custom: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Key Global ($27.30)
Total: $1968.20

I have been building PCs for over 30 years so if you have any questions please ask. For Future Communication I use Discord for much Faster Response Times as I have it open 24/7. I am also available if you need help before, during, or after the Build Process on Discord through Text,Voice, or Video Chat. I can be with you while you build your new PC if you need me to be. Here is my Discord: Wizardsnapper#2772

 

 

 

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Thanks so much for the feedback! It has helped a lot seeing other parts used in similar systems, but I have a few lot of questions about some of the recommendations.

On 7/30/2023 at 4:41 PM, Why_Me said:

CPU: *Intel Core i7-13700F 2.1 GHz 16-Core Processor  ($349.99 @ Amazon) 
CPU Cooler: *Deepcool AG620 67.88 CFM CPU Cooler  ($49.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: *MSI B760 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($159.99 @ Amazon) 

...
Video Card: *Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card  ($799.99 @ Newegg) 
Case: *Fractal Design Focus 2 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($79.98 @ Newegg) 

CPU - So you made me look up what the suffixes were, and it makes a lot more sense, but I just want to make sure. F is high performance to be used with a dedicated gpu which just means that it doesn't come with the trash integrated GPU right? Does that give any performance benefits or does it simply not have the integrated chip and that's the only change? The 'K' one I had means unlocked right? Does that mean it's allowed to overclock, but is functionally identical if I don't overclock it? Should I not get both then with 13700KF or whatever it is, since they are all fairly similar in price, or do I get no benefit out of the K if I don't overclock?

CPU Cooler - This one has me the most stumped. I honestly would prefer an air cooler over a liquid cooler for maintenance reasons, but I don't want to just install a worse cooler that could effect performance for that alone. I have done a bunch of research on tdp ratings and other reviews and have come to the conclusion that none of it makes any sense, since the tdp ratings don't even seem to match real world testing.
Between this: 
https://linustechtips.com/topic/891730-cpu-cooler-performance-tier-list/
and this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YFR20MmvpM&ab_channel=LinusTechTips

It seems as though tdp does not mean better cooling, so I am very hesitant to purchase a cooler yet without understanding it better. Although the video does basically state that if you are exclusively gaming that thermal throttling is very unlikely with any reasonable cooler.

I just still have nightmares due to somehow lighting my old IBM laptop CPU on fire without any overclocking or modifications to it. I still have the black scorched cpu block as some sort of trophy.

Motherboard - Big thing here is that I just don't understand what I lose/gain from the cheaper/expensive boards. The only thing I noticed was that the board used in the starforged system that I had selected supports PCe 5.0, which isn't even used by any components that exist yet, so I see no reason not to use the cheaper board... I just don't know why the expensive board even exists then if it doesn't have any benefits.

Case: It's worth noting that I had actually found a fairly good deal on the original case (but white) used in the starforged design, but I actually really like the look of this Fractal Design case. My only concern was that if I chose to go with one of the AIO cooler units would it still fit on the top of the case like it did in the other cases. I couldn't really determine how to check that, since it just seems standard that they allow it and don't bother to state it.

 

23 hours ago, PC HEROES said:

Hi... I was looking over your Build List and I made some changes.

 

1. I swapped out the AIO to a 360mm just in case that you ever decide to upgrade the CPU and the new one is about $10 cheaper.

 

2. I swapped out the Motherboard for a different one from Gigabyte that also has WiFi. Also saving $10.

 

3. I upgraded you to 2TB of M.2 Storage just because Games are getting really large in size and a 1TB just isn't enough anymore.

 

4. I changed the PC Case so that it's cheaper and it also comes with 3 RGB Fans and I also added 1 extra RGB Fan to replace the one in the Rear. The AIO will go on top of the Case.

 

5. I got you a 1000w PSU in case you upgrade the CPU and or the GPU.

 

6. I took out the Copy of Windows 11 you had and got you a Link to get a Key for only $28 so you don't have to pay over $100 for it.

1. According to everything I found, that cooler is actually less effective than the Deepcool LS520 I had selected in mine, but as stated earlier, I am not really sure how to even measure the effectiveness of a cooler outside of comparing tdp rating or viewing it on that tier list linked above which puts the cooler you selected in tier 2, while the one I had originally selected was in tier 1. What function did swapping to this cooler serve in case of upgrading?

2. As stated above, I don't particularly know why one motherboard is better or worse than another. I only even selected the one I had because it was used in the starforge system. What features would I lose from using a cheaper motherboard? The only things I saw different were available ports and the loss of the seemingly useless PCIe 5.0 functionality, so I see no reason not to downgrade to the one you recommended, I just don't know why it's $100 extra for the motherboard I selected if the only thing I am losing is a useless feature and an extra audio port or two.

3.  Haha, fair

4. I actually forgot to mention that RGB (more or less) is a meaningless feature to me and that I only had it due to it existing in the system I was basing it on. That being said, I also wouldn't pay extra to *not* have RGB. 

 

5. You are the second person to recommend that. If the estimate for the system is around 650W and the PSU I have is 850W is 1000W that important? Even a pretty significant upgrade wouldn't reach 850W or do you need a decent amount of head room to run properly and that is why the 1000W was recommended?

6. Noted lol


So After much more research, I am now looking at something closer to this, but obviously I am still confused or concerned with the above points:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/77kj4M
 

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700KF 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor  ($389.99 @ Amazon) 
CPU Cooler: Deepcool LS520 85.85 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($109.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: *MSI PRO Z690-A WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($159.99 @ Amazon) 
Memory: *TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  ($99.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: TEAMGROUP Cardea Zero Z440 Graphene 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($45.99 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: *MSI GAMING X TRIO GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card  ($834.99 @ Amazon) 
Case: Fractal Design Focus 2 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($87.00 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: *Corsair RM1000e (2023) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($161.57 @ Amazon) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit  ($129.99 @ Amazon) 
Total: $2019.50

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24 minutes ago, SyluxImmortal said:

Thanks so much for the feedback! It has helped a lot seeing other parts used in similar systems, but I have a few lot of questions about some of the recommendations.

CPU - So you made me look up what the suffixes were, and it makes a lot more sense, but I just want to make sure. F is high performance to be used with a dedicated gpu which just means that it doesn't come with the trash integrated GPU right? Does that give any performance benefits or does it simply not have the integrated chip and that's the only change? The 'K' one I had means unlocked right? Does that mean it's allowed to overclock, but is functionally identical if I don't overclock it? Should I not get both then with 13700KF or whatever it is, since they are all fairly similar in price, or do I get no benefit out of the K if I don't overclock?

CPU Cooler - This one has me the most stumped. I honestly would prefer an air cooler over a liquid cooler for maintenance reasons, but I don't want to just install a worse cooler that could effect performance for that alone. I have done a bunch of research on tdp ratings and other reviews and have come to the conclusion that none of it makes any sense, since the tdp ratings don't even seem to match real world testing.
Between this: 
https://linustechtips.com/topic/891730-cpu-cooler-performance-tier-list/
and this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YFR20MmvpM&ab_channel=LinusTechTips

It seems as though tdp does not mean better cooling, so I am very hesitant to purchase a cooler yet without understanding it better. Although the video does basically state that if you are exclusively gaming that thermal throttling is very unlikely with any reasonable cooler.

I just still have nightmares due to somehow lighting my old IBM laptop CPU on fire without any overclocking or modifications to it. I still have the black scorched cpu block as some sort of trophy.

Motherboard - Big thing here is that I just don't understand what I lose/gain from the cheaper/expensive boards. The only thing I noticed was that the board used in the starforged system that I had selected supports PCe 5.0, which isn't even used by any components that exist yet, so I see no reason not to use the cheaper board... I just don't know why the expensive board even exists then if it doesn't have any benefits.

Case: It's worth noting that I had actually found a fairly good deal on the original case (but white) used in the starforged design, but I actually really like the look of this Fractal Design case. My only concern was that if I chose to go with one of the AIO cooler units would it still fit on the top of the case like it did in the other cases. I couldn't really determine how to check that, since it just seems standard that they allow it and don't bother to state it.

 

1. According to everything I found, that cooler is actually less effective than the Deepcool LS520 I had selected in mine, but as stated earlier, I am not really sure how to even measure the effectiveness of a cooler outside of comparing tdp rating or viewing it on that tier list linked above which puts the cooler you selected in tier 2, while the one I had originally selected was in tier 1. What function did swapping to this cooler serve in case of upgrading?

2. As stated above, I don't particularly know why one motherboard is better or worse than another. I only even selected the one I had because it was used in the starforge system. What features would I lose from using a cheaper motherboard? The only things I saw different were available ports and the loss of the seemingly useless PCIe 5.0 functionality, so I see no reason not to downgrade to the one you recommended, I just don't know why it's $100 extra for the motherboard I selected if the only thing I am losing is a useless feature and an extra audio port or two.

3.  Haha, fair

4. I actually forgot to mention that RGB (more or less) is a meaningless feature to me and that I only had it due to it existing in the system I was basing it on. That being said, I also wouldn't pay extra to *not* have RGB. 

 

5. You are the second person to recommend that. If the estimate for the system is around 650W and the PSU I have is 850W is 1000W that important? Even a pretty significant upgrade wouldn't reach 850W or do you need a decent amount of head room to run properly and that is why the 1000W was recommended?

6. Noted lol


So After much more research, I am now looking at something closer to this, but obviously I am still confused or concerned with the above points:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/77kj4M
 

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700KF 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor  ($389.99 @ Amazon) 
CPU Cooler: Deepcool LS520 85.85 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($109.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: *MSI PRO Z690-A WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($159.99 @ Amazon) 
Memory: *TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  ($99.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: TEAMGROUP Cardea Zero Z440 Graphene 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($45.99 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: *MSI GAMING X TRIO GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card  ($834.99 @ Amazon) 
Case: Fractal Design Focus 2 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($87.00 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: *Corsair RM1000e (2023) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($161.57 @ Amazon) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit  ($129.99 @ Amazon) 
Total: $2019.50

After looking over your new list it was better but I had to make some changes.

 

1. I swapped out the AIO to a 360mm because anything over an i5 should be used with a 360mm for the heat output. I found one in all Black no RGB.

 

2. For the Motherboard I always pick one with an I/O Shield already attached. The seperate ones are flimsy and sometimes hard to work with. Also you picked a Z690 that would have needed a BIOS update and found a B760 for the same price that has an integrated I/O.

 

3. I swapped the 1TB to a 2TB since you agreed with me before.

 

4. I found you a cheaper 4070Ti.

 

5. I found you a PC Case that has 3 140mm Fans in it for major Airflow. It has a Full Mesh Front & Top Panels. Also no RGB.

 

6. I added the Windows 11 Key so that you don't pay Retail.

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ft6qqR

 

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700KF 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor  ($389.88 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Loop 360 Liquid CPU Cooler  ($124.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B760 GAMING X AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: *TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: TEAMGROUP T-Create Classic DL 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($91.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card  ($799.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Montech AIR 903 BASE ATX Mid Tower Case  ($65.00 @ Newegg Sellers)
Power Supply: *Corsair RM1000e (2023) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($161.57 @ Amazon)
Custom: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Key GLOBAL ($27.25)
Total: $1915.56

I have been building PCs for over 30 years so if you have any questions please ask. For Future Communication I use Discord for much Faster Response Times as I have it open 24/7. I am also available if you need help before, during, or after the Build Process on Discord through Text,Voice, or Video Chat. I can be with you while you build your new PC if you need me to be. Here is my Discord: Wizardsnapper#2772

 

 

 

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On 7/30/2023 at 12:58 PM, PC HEROES said:

Hi... I was looking over your Build List and I made some changes.

 

1. I swapped out the AIO to a 360mm just in case that you ever decide to upgrade the CPU and the new one is about $10 cheaper.

 

2. I swapped out the Motherboard for a different one from Gigabyte that also has WiFi. Also saving $10.

 

3. I upgraded you to 2TB of M.2 Storage just because Games are getting really large in size and a 1TB just isn't enough anymore.

 

4. I changed the PC Case so that it's cheaper and it also comes with 3 RGB Fans and I also added 1 extra RGB Fan to replace the one in the Rear. The AIO will go on top of the Case.

 

5. I got you a 1000w PSU in case you upgrade the CPU and or the GPU.

 

6. I took out the Copy of Windows 11 you had and got you a Link to get a Key for only $28 so you don't have to pay over $100 for it.

 

I have been building PCs for 30 years so if you have any questions please ask.

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nvbLrv

 

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor  ($317.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: ID-COOLING ZOOMFLOW 360 XT  68.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 GAMING X AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($229.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: TEAMGROUP Cardea A440 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($95.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GAMING X TRIO GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card  ($834.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Montech AIR 903 MAX ATX Mid Tower Case  ($75.00 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RM1000e (2023) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($161.57 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 PST A-RGB 0dB 48.8 CFM 120 mm Fan  ($16.38 @ Amazon)
Custom: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Key Global ($27.30)
Total: $1968.20

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/deepcool-ag620-air-cooler 

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8m6p99/msi-pro-z790-a-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-pro-z790-a-wifi  

 

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-Z790-A-WIFI  

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Thanks so much for all the help guys.

 

So, I did some more research on the case and it seems that the Fractal Design Focus 2 actually does not have space for the recommended 360mm radiator, although I still haven't really found enough data on whether or not air cooling will actually throttle the performance. I know @PC HEROES stated that it needs a 360mm radiator liquid cooler, but I just wanted to see where this data came from, since I just don't see anything definitive about how big of a cooler you need in the first place. Anywho... that case @PC HEROES listed that obviously does support the 360mm radiator is also quite cool, so I might look into using that if I go with the 360mm radiator instead of the air cooler that @Why_Me recommended.

 

I still don't fully understand the differences in the motherboards being thrown around. I knew the bios would need updated in the one I listed, but I also didn't think it that was something that would be that hard for me to handle, since I own a flash drive, another computer and have access to the internet (could be wrong, but hey... in my mind I could do it). And I actually didn't even notice that the one I listed didn't have an included I/O shield. For some reason I just assumed it wasn't there to showcase the ports. How does that even work when it doesn't include an I/O shield? Do you have to buy that separately or just deal with holes in the back of your PC between the ports?

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10 minutes ago, SyluxImmortal said:

Thanks so much for all the help guys.

 

So, I did some more research on the case and it seems that the Fractal Design Focus 2 actually does not have space for the recommended 360mm radiator, although I still haven't really found enough data on whether or not air cooling will actually throttle the performance. I know @PC HEROES stated that it needs a 360mm radiator liquid cooler, but I just wanted to see where this data came from, since I just don't see anything definitive about how big of a cooler you need in the first place. Anywho... that case @PC HEROES listed that obviously does support the 360mm radiator is also quite cool, so I might look into using that if I go with the 360mm radiator instead of the air cooler that @Why_Me recommended.

 

I still don't fully understand the differences in the motherboards being thrown around. I knew the bios would need updated in the one I listed, but I also didn't think it that was something that would be that hard for me to handle, since I own a flash drive, another computer and have access to the internet (could be wrong, but hey... in my mind I could do it). And I actually didn't even notice that the one I listed didn't have an included I/O shield. For some reason I just assumed it wasn't there to showcase the ports. How does that even work when it doesn't include an I/O shield? Do you have to buy that separately or just deal with holes in the back of your PC between the ports?

The MSI Motherboard that you had picked does come with an I/O Shield but you have to install it into the case yourself. It is made of a very sharp piece of junk aluminum. The Boards that I pick I just pay a few extra bucks for to make sure that the I/O Shield is already attached to the Motherboard and it is made of a much stronger metal and not flimsy at all.

 

The PC Case that I picked is really new, I think it just came out this month. Right now I think it is the best budget Case on the market. Base version comes w/ 3 140mm Fans, 2 in Front and 1 in the Rear. The Max version has 3 120mm Fans in the Front and 1 140mm in the Rear. Both Cases can support a 360mm AIO in the Front and on Top. You can also add 2 more 120mm Fans to the top of thee PSU Shroud to help the GPU with better Airflow. At $65 and $75 you can't beat it, it's too good not too pass up.

 

As far as Data goes, I just have TONS of knowledge from years and years of experience. I don't actively go looking for reviews on new parts when they come available, I just know about what I use on a daily basis working with my hands. Working with my hands really gives me a feel for things and how well they are going to be Hardware wise. Nothing makes me happier than building PCs. It's a joy I've had since I was a kid and now 30 years later I still love what I do and almost everything about it, pricing on some things not included, LOL.

 

I wish you luck and I would love if you would send me some Pics of the PC when it's all done. I have a Collage Wall that I place finished builds on so that people can see it. To me it's like Art.

I have been building PCs for over 30 years so if you have any questions please ask. For Future Communication I use Discord for much Faster Response Times as I have it open 24/7. I am also available if you need help before, during, or after the Build Process on Discord through Text,Voice, or Video Chat. I can be with you while you build your new PC if you need me to be. Here is my Discord: Wizardsnapper#2772

 

 

 

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