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Selecting Argb fans?

Go to solution Solved by SorryBella,
58 minutes ago, Lumious said:

I want to install 6 fans into this case; 3x front 120mm, 2x top 120 or 140mm, 1x back 120mm.

Then you really only need 2 3 head y splitter, something like this.

61wdLdpM19L.thumb.jpg.70b58325ae3921d026a1dcea8dcea70f.jpg

 

You use 1 fully populated y splitter for the front and then the other one for top and rear. Setup front for intake from the front (there are multiple ways to make sure but rule of thumb is that where the brand and model sticker is where the wind will blow) and then setup the top and rear for exhausting out. Any ARGB fans would work as the controller itself isnt in the fans, ARGB is just term that the LEDs can change colors. Generally i prefer using either OpenRGB or SignalRGB as they have most if not all features that motherboard manufacturer ARGB effects have. And for our use case, Asus Aura is compatible with both.

 

If you want fan recommendation, to me right now its either the Arctic P ARGB or Lian Li Uni SL120 fans. The latter also benefits in cable-free daisychaining mechanism which pretty much means you can skip the Y splitter.

58 minutes ago, Lumious said:

Country: USA

Part list: 
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PtR69r

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor   
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler   
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard 
Memory: TEAMGROUP Elite 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-4800 CL40 Memory  
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING OC V2 GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB Video Card  OR Asus TUF GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case 
Power Supply: Corsair RM750e 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail - USB 64-bit

This is still a build list right? Id love to know your budget and purpose of the rig.

I need help in selecting ARGB Fans, cause I'm just getting myself more confused when looking into fans.

 

I plan on getting Asus TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard which has 3x Addressable gen 2 headers. Along with that, I am getting the Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case. I want to install 6 fans into this case; 3x front 120mm, 2x top 120 or 140mm, 1x back 120mm.

 

I'm not sure what fans to get that will take advantage of what the motherboard offer, and what other additional accessories are needed to make this work(fan hub, y splitters etc?) and how they would be set up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, cause honestly I'm burned out of looking a different fans, video of different case fans, but I just can't seem to find the answer I am looking for.

 

 

Country: USA

Part list: 
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PtR69r

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor   
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler   
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard 
Memory: TEAMGROUP Elite 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-4800 CL40 Memory  
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING OC V2 GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB Video Card  OR Asus TUF GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case 
Power Supply: Corsair RM750e 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail - USB 64-bit

 

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58 minutes ago, Lumious said:

I want to install 6 fans into this case; 3x front 120mm, 2x top 120 or 140mm, 1x back 120mm.

Then you really only need 2 3 head y splitter, something like this.

61wdLdpM19L.thumb.jpg.70b58325ae3921d026a1dcea8dcea70f.jpg

 

You use 1 fully populated y splitter for the front and then the other one for top and rear. Setup front for intake from the front (there are multiple ways to make sure but rule of thumb is that where the brand and model sticker is where the wind will blow) and then setup the top and rear for exhausting out. Any ARGB fans would work as the controller itself isnt in the fans, ARGB is just term that the LEDs can change colors. Generally i prefer using either OpenRGB or SignalRGB as they have most if not all features that motherboard manufacturer ARGB effects have. And for our use case, Asus Aura is compatible with both.

 

If you want fan recommendation, to me right now its either the Arctic P ARGB or Lian Li Uni SL120 fans. The latter also benefits in cable-free daisychaining mechanism which pretty much means you can skip the Y splitter.

58 minutes ago, Lumious said:

Country: USA

Part list: 
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PtR69r

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor   
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler   
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard 
Memory: TEAMGROUP Elite 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-4800 CL40 Memory  
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING OC V2 GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB Video Card  OR Asus TUF GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case 
Power Supply: Corsair RM750e 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home Retail - USB 64-bit

This is still a build list right? Id love to know your budget and purpose of the rig.

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Just get any A-RGB fans that have Aura Sync compatibility, which most fans do. Some cheap ones that are good:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FQ6p99/arctic-p12-pst-a-rgb-0db-488-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-acfan00232a

For the RGB, you just need to daisy chain all the RGB cables, then have 1 of the cable plugged into the motherboard.

For the fans PWM, if the fans don't come with fan header splitter, get one from amazon, you just need to plug the fan splitter to the motherboard header, then plug up to 4 fans into 1 splitter.

 

Aside from the fans, a few notes:

If you only game, 13600K performs almost the same as 13700K, so save your money.

Get faster RAM, don't bother going for DDR5 if you're getting the slowest DDR5.

3070 pricing is terrible, 6800 XT is about the same price yet performs much better, if you only game, don't get 3070.

Get windows keys elsewhere, don't pay that much money for an OS, you could get one for less than $50, and get win 10 then free upgrade to win 11.

Occassionaly visits the forum when I have nothing to do at work.

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According to the user manual, each of the three 5V A-RGB headers can handle loads up to 3A, 500 LED. Each of the fan power headers can handle 1A.

 

https://www.arctic.de/en/P12-PWM-PST-A-RGB/ACFAN00231A each use 0.11A on a power header and 0.4A on an A-RGB header. The fans have daisy chainable wiring so splitters are not required.

 

 

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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I'm not sure if it'll be different because I have the TG H670 Pro, but if you get a fan pwm repeater, you'll be able to plug in up to 6 fans without splitters. I tried 8, including 2 Noctua iPPC 3,000 RPM and it worked but BIOS thought the header was unused until I moved the iPPCs to other headers. I don't think the 4000D comes with the repeater, just the RGB lighting core. 

 

Command hubs are probably better but I've never used one. Corsair will happily sell you one. 

 

The bad thing about splitters and repeaters is that you don't usually have individual control over those fans, so I suggest that you spread out your fans evenly across all 4 cha1-4 fan headers so that you have more control than if you put them all on one. 

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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10 hours ago, SorryClaire said:

This is still a build list right? Id love to know your budget and purpose of the rig.

My budget is US $2000
I would like to try my hand at video game streaming as a side hobby. I've only been researching so far, so may be some things in this list that may be questionable to someone with more experience with building PC. I'm making the transition after 10+ years of only using a laptop. If you have suggestions. However there is one note I'd like to add.

 

I know some are saying that I should get 6800XT or any AMD GPU, but I'm a bit on the fence especially with large reports of it corrupting people PC recently. So that does not really seem appealing. I may sound a bit stubborn, but I would like to stick to Nivida, unless if there is a solution to that problem.

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10 hours ago, Dukesilver27- said:

Aside from the fans, a few notes:

If you only game, 13600K performs almost the same as 13700K, so save your money.

Get faster RAM, don't bother going for DDR5 if you're getting the slowest DDR5.

3070 pricing is terrible, 6800 XT is about the same price yet performs much better, if you only game, don't get 3070.

Get windows keys elsewhere, don't pay that much money for an OS, you could get one for less than $50, and get win 10 then free upgrade to win 11.

As I mention in a reply, I would like to try video game streaming. So the 13600K would performs on par then?
When getting RAM, what am I suppose to pay attention to beside mobo compat?
As stubborn as it sound, I'm not keen in to getting an AMD gpu, especially with the reports of it gpu corrupting PC. The only reason  I would get it, or any of it new successors, if there is a sound solution. which is why I also add 4070ti to the list since it only one that I would be willing to spend.

Would getting the Win 10 and updating Win 11 be more work, especially for someone new? 

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The consensus is that the 4070Ti isn't worth it. 

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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Think of it this way, in this case, the only meaningful difference between 13700K and 13600K is core count, which for games, only matter up to 8 cores, 13600K has 14 cores and 13700K has 16 cores. In gaming, 13700K is only about 1-2% faster than 13600K, and that 1-2% performance difference isn't worth the $100 difference.

So those extra cores are not going to benefit gaming or streaming, because the abundance of cores. It only matters if you do any sort of productivity workload.

As for RAM, you need to get at least 2x16GB and 6000MHZ, the lower the CL the better.

6 hours ago, Lumious said:

As stubborn as it sound, I'm not keen in to getting an AMD gpu, especially with the reports of it gpu corrupting PC.

I've been using 6800 XT for the past year, it's been great, on windows 11 too. Anyway since you're going to stream, Nvidia still has the better encoder, so Nvidia it is.

 

6 hours ago, Lumious said:

Would getting the Win 10 and updating Win 11 be more work, especially for someone new? 

It's just like any windows update, you leave it updating while you're using your PC, then when it is ready to install, you just need to restart the PC, and windows will do the rest for you. Or if you're still in doubt, get the win 11 key but not from retailers available in pcpp.

 

Anyway, this build will be a much better performer for just a bit more. Get the windows key elsewhere, like Kinguin.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wwDGQ6

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor  ($299.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler  ($64.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($274.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory  ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI VENTUS 3X OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card  ($829.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case  ($94.99 @ Best Buy)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750e 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Enermax HF120 72.1 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack  ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Enermax HF120 72.1 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack  ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1939.88

Occassionaly visits the forum when I have nothing to do at work.

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9 hours ago, Lumious said:

My budget is US $2000
I would like to try my hand at video game streaming as a side hobby. I've only been researching so far, so may be some things in this list that may be questionable to someone with more experience with building PC. I'm making the transition after 10+ years of only using a laptop. If you have suggestions. However there is one note I'd like to add.

 

I know some are saying that I should get 6800XT or any AMD GPU, but I'm a bit on the fence especially with large reports of it corrupting people PC recently. So that does not really seem appealing. I may sound a bit stubborn, but I would like to stick to Nivida, unless if there is a solution to that problem.

Personally speaking i far prefer NVENC media encoder for streaming, because of how inferior Radeon Media Engine is compared to them. The other alternative would be QSV by Intel or x264 aka via software on the CPU which is taxing to hell and back. 

 

If you dont mind exceeding the 5% overbudget you could get a 4080 in your budget range which would be better. I went for 12th gen Intel instead of 13th due to 12600K pricing being lower than 13400F, and both performs neck in neck in benchmark. And bonus of 12600K having a better binned memory controller. Swapping to a 4070Ti would drop it to 1800$.

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor  ($193.87 @ Amazon) 
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AG620 BK ARGB 67.88 CFM CPU Cooler  ($49.99 @ Newegg) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B760 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($159.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL36 Memory  ($114.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($119.99 @ Newegg) 
Video Card: MSI VENTUS 3X OC GeForce RTX 4080 16 GB Video Card  ($1149.00 @ Amazon) 
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case  ($104.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: ADATA XPG CORE Reactor 850 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($137.99 @ Newegg) 
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 PST A-RGB 0dB 48.8 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack  ($59.99 @ Amazon) 
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 PST A-RGB 0dB 48.8 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack  ($59.99 @ Amazon) 
Total: $2150.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-23 22:24 EDT-0400

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Thanks to everyone that reply with their prefered fans suggestion along with detailed explanination as to how fans setup works. I feel like I finally found the answer that I was looking that has seem to be glossed over.

 

Thank you to Dukesilver27- and SorryClaire in providing insightful feedback as to how I can further improve my build. I will definietly take your suggestion into consideration.

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