New subwoofer

[Golden]

Hi all,

I'm looking to buy a new subwoofer to put in my car. My goal was to achieve the most value for the price. I have done a little research and found a few parts on Amazon.com. I want to make sure that all the specs line up so that it is fully operation once installed. Let me know what you guys think.

 

Subwoofer:
10" Kicker
http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-10C104-10-Inch-Subwoofer-Black/dp/B0036W7OTY/ref=psdc18_t3_B0036MOQCM_B0036W7OTY

 

Ported Enclosure:
http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-Series-10-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT9O/ref=zg_bs_10981061_9

 

Amplifier:
http://www.amazon.com/R1100M-Monoblock-Amplifier-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397295461&sr=1-1&keywords=subwoofer+amplifier

 

Install Kit:
http://www.amazon.com/KIT-2-Complete-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y

 

In-Dash Receiver:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-Receiver-Bluetooth-Pandora/dp/B0091UW7F6/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1397336376&sr=1-1&keywords=in-dash+reciever

[helping]

What's your budget?

What genres?

Do you have any tools and are -decent- with craft work?

 

@Golden ??

gonna have to help me help you

[Elven]

@Golden

 

Yeah that set up will work fine. It's not perfect but on a tight budget it is definitely the best result you will achieve. The amp is a little over kill but it doubt it can deliver the so called "rated" wattage. So for the time being, it'll do you just fine with that set up. The gauge wiring is just about enough but there is a good chance you will experience lights dimming during power draw. Thicker gauge wiring is a good place to start.

[Golden]

@helping

 

There isn't really a "budget" so to say. I just want the best bang for my buck. I have all the tools to install, and that isn't a concern. The subwoofer is electronic genre of music. That was my rational for choosing the ported enclosure after doing a bit of reading. Let me know if you have any recommendations.

 

@Elven

 

I'm not sure what the calculations are for choosing the gauge. I heard it was (rms power) x ohms / 13.8volts. Is this correct? Should I get a thicker gauge? Wouldn't that cause more impedence?

[helping]

@helping

 

There isn't really a "budget" so to say. I just want the best bang for my buck. I have all the tools to install, and that isn't a concern. The subwoofer is electronic genre of music. That was my rational for choosing the ported enclosure after doing a bit of reading. Let me know if you have any recommendations.

 

@Elven

 

I'm not sure what the calculations are for choosing the gauge. I heard it was (rms power) x ohms / 13.8volts. Is this correct? Should I get a thicker gauge? Wouldn't that cause more impedence?

Do you think you can build your own box? It'll sound a lot better built to manufacturers spec. All you'd need is some MDF, liquid nails, a nail gun, obviously a saw, and some fiberglass if you want to get fancy with it. 

 

If not I'd go with prefab manufacturer's box instead of aftermarket box. Most of them are crap. 

[bmxtricky5]

10" isn't big enough, you need at least a 35"

[helping]

@helping

 

There isn't really a "budget" so to say. I just want the best bang for my buck. I have all the tools to install, and that isn't a concern. The subwoofer is electronic genre of music. That was my rational for choosing the ported enclosure after doing a bit of reading. Let me know if you have any recommendations.

 

@Elven

 

I'm not sure what the calculations are for choosing the gauge. I heard it was (rms power) x ohms / 13.8volts. Is this correct? Should I get a thicker gauge? Wouldn't that cause more impedence?

Also, stay WAY the hell away from that BOSS amp.

 

You won't have any electrical problems so long as you take the time to get a decent ground on the amp. Be sure to sand your ground point and check it with a multimeter. You should not have any power problems with a good ground and a healthy alternator, if your car is in good condition the odds of you having dimming issues are really slim if I'm pushing near 700w on stock everything except engine wires, and 500w on stock everything (sans duralast gold battery) without dimming. This isn't a high amount of power draw at all. Thicker gauge wire will drop impedance. If (god knows why) for some reason your electrical system can't handle this, I would have the alternator inspected and upgrade to thicker gauge on engine to chassis, alternator to battery, and battery to chassis

 

If you have full electric steering this may be a small issue in which case upgrading engine electrical wiring might be something to do. Some cars with full electric steering have dimming problems when turning at low  speed straight out of factory. 

 

Try something like http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20610VC124/Kicker-10VC124.html?tp=112

I have a pair of the same 4ohm 12's in a kicker prefab box terminating to 2ohms on a 500w Alpine amp, and they take the power well. Pretty underrated subs. 

 

You would typically want around a 200w and no more than 250w amp for this guy. For some reason there aren't many decent and cheap amps in that range at 4 ohms though

suggestions:

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M250-Mono-subwoofer-amplifier/dp/B00BLQ2T9M/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1397354804&sr=8-9&keywords=Alpine+amp

http://www.amazon.com/KICKER-DX250-1-2-Ohm-Amplifier-11DX2501/dp/B004VD3158/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1397353437&sr=8-29&keywords=monoblock+amp

 

I would go for a cheaper 50~80$ single din HU though. Double din isn't worth it unless you're getting a 300$+ navi/touch UI HU.

Note that you typically buy a slightly higher RMS amp than the subwoofer because quality subwoofers can take RMS + a bit more, and running the amp below maximum potential keeps it working cooler. 

[Guest]

I would certainly not buy the driver and the enclosure separately.