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PSU clicks when pressing power button

lewis wruk

Hi guys, so I just set up my new motherboard, CPU and GPU, plugged everything in, no boot. I noticed my PSU clicks when I press the PC power button.

 

My system lights up, RGB in motherboard and GPU, buy won't power up to boot, just clicks, then I have to switch the PSU off and on and try again it just clicks again.

 

I have tried another GPU, CPU, motherboard, ram and it won't boot anything now, not even my old configuration. I tried another PSU from.my other system and it runs the computer fine but I can't use that PSU. Anyone know what my PSU is doing and why.

 

Specs -

Ryzen 3700x

Rtx 2070 super ROG

Asus x570 plus TUF

Corsair 750w modular PSU

Hyper X predator 32gb 3200mhz

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18 minutes ago, lewis wruk said:

Corsair 750w modular PSU

get a RMA with corsair

Everyone, Creator初音ミク Hatsune Miku Google commercial.

 

 

Cameras: Main: Canon 70D - Secondary: Panasonic GX85 - Spare: Samsung ST68. - Action cams: GoPro Hero+, Akaso EK7000pro

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Pc's

Spoiler

Dell optiplex 5050 (main) - i5-6500- 20GB ram -500gb samsung 970 evo  500gb WD blue HDD - dvd r/w

 

HP compaq 8300 prebuilt - Intel i5-3470 - 8GB ram - 500GB HDD - bluray drive

 

old windows 7 gaming desktop - Intel i5 2400 - lenovo CIH61M V:1.0 - 4GB ram - 1TB HDD - dual DVD r/w

 

main laptop acer e5 15 - Intel i3 7th gen - 16GB ram - 1TB HDD - dvd drive                                                                     

 

school laptop lenovo 300e chromebook 2nd gen - Intel celeron - 4GB ram - 32GB SSD 

 

audio mac- 2017 apple macbook air A1466 EMC 3178

Any questions? pm me.

#Muricaparrotgang                                                                                   

 

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7 minutes ago, sub68 said:

get a RMA with corsair

Its no longer under warranty, I assume it's dead then?

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1 minute ago, lewis wruk said:

Its no longer under warranty, I assume it's dead then?

yeah I would assume its dead.

what exact model is it?

Everyone, Creator初音ミク Hatsune Miku Google commercial.

 

 

Cameras: Main: Canon 70D - Secondary: Panasonic GX85 - Spare: Samsung ST68. - Action cams: GoPro Hero+, Akaso EK7000pro

Dead cameras: Nikion s4000, Canon XTi

 

Pc's

Spoiler

Dell optiplex 5050 (main) - i5-6500- 20GB ram -500gb samsung 970 evo  500gb WD blue HDD - dvd r/w

 

HP compaq 8300 prebuilt - Intel i5-3470 - 8GB ram - 500GB HDD - bluray drive

 

old windows 7 gaming desktop - Intel i5 2400 - lenovo CIH61M V:1.0 - 4GB ram - 1TB HDD - dual DVD r/w

 

main laptop acer e5 15 - Intel i3 7th gen - 16GB ram - 1TB HDD - dvd drive                                                                     

 

school laptop lenovo 300e chromebook 2nd gen - Intel celeron - 4GB ram - 32GB SSD 

 

audio mac- 2017 apple macbook air A1466 EMC 3178

Any questions? pm me.

#Muricaparrotgang                                                                                   

 

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2 minutes ago, sub68 said:

yeah I would assume its dead.

what exact model is it?

Tx750M model, damn guess I'll have to go buy a new one tomorrow. Just don't get why motherboard RGB lights up but system refuses to boot. Damn oh well

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actually did you see if connections are correct?

Everyone, Creator初音ミク Hatsune Miku Google commercial.

 

 

Cameras: Main: Canon 70D - Secondary: Panasonic GX85 - Spare: Samsung ST68. - Action cams: GoPro Hero+, Akaso EK7000pro

Dead cameras: Nikion s4000, Canon XTi

 

Pc's

Spoiler

Dell optiplex 5050 (main) - i5-6500- 20GB ram -500gb samsung 970 evo  500gb WD blue HDD - dvd r/w

 

HP compaq 8300 prebuilt - Intel i5-3470 - 8GB ram - 500GB HDD - bluray drive

 

old windows 7 gaming desktop - Intel i5 2400 - lenovo CIH61M V:1.0 - 4GB ram - 1TB HDD - dual DVD r/w

 

main laptop acer e5 15 - Intel i3 7th gen - 16GB ram - 1TB HDD - dvd drive                                                                     

 

school laptop lenovo 300e chromebook 2nd gen - Intel celeron - 4GB ram - 32GB SSD 

 

audio mac- 2017 apple macbook air A1466 EMC 3178

Any questions? pm me.

#Muricaparrotgang                                                                                   

 

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2 minutes ago, sub68 said:

actually did you see if connections are correct?

Which connections? As in from PSU to each part? If so then yeah, I have a 8 pin to 16 pin GPU cable and a 8 pin and 4 pin CPU cable and then 24 pin is seated correct

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30 minutes ago, lewis wruk said:

Which connections? As in from PSU to each part? If so then yeah, I have a 8 pin to 16 pin GPU cable and a 8 pin and 4 pin CPU cable and then 24 pin is seated correct

I think what he's asking is:  Are you using only the cables that came with the TX-M.  No 'mystery cables" that might have come from another PSU?

 

I'm a bit disappointed that sub68 jumped to the conclusion that the PSU is dead without doing any troubleshooting.

 

Did this PSU work prior to swapping out the motherboard, CPU and GPU?  If so, I find it highly unlikely that it would just decide to die simply because you changed other parts out.

 

Often times, a "click" like that is the PSU's internal safety triggering.  That's why you have to cycle the power.  To reset the safety.  This could mean a short.  Could be something as simple as the PSU touching an extra stand off in the case or a pinched wire.

 

You should pull your parts back out, retrace your steps and try testing it OUTSIDE of the chassis with minimal components before giving up.

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13 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

I think what he's asking is:  Are you using only the cables that came with the TX-M.  No 'mystery cables" that might have come from another PSU?

 

I'm a bit disappointed that sub68 jumped to the conclusion that the PSU is dead without doing any troubleshooting.

 

Did this PSU work prior to swapping out the motherboard, CPU and GPU?  If so, I find it highly unlikely that it would just decide to die simply because you changed other parts out.

 

Often times, a "click" like that is the PSU's internal safety triggering.  That's why you have to cycle the power.  To reset the safety.  This could mean a short.  Could be something as simple as the PSU touching an extra stand off in the case or a pinched wire.

 

You should pull your parts back out, retrace your steps and try testing it OUTSIDE of the chassis with minimal components before giving up.

I tested and worked in it more, I couldn't give up and I have had success! Turns out I just removed my extra 4 pin CPU and used it as 8 pin only and then used a different 8pin GPU cable so it was 8pin for 8pin and another 8 pin for 8pin and boom, works! Pain in my ass, had me panicking haha

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1 hour ago, lewis wruk said:

I tested and worked in it more, I couldn't give up and I have had success! Turns out I just removed my extra 4 pin CPU and used it as 8 pin only and then used a different 8pin GPU cable so it was 8pin for 8pin and another 8 pin for 8pin and boom, works! Pain in my ass, had me panicking haha

Was that first cable you were using made to use with Corsair PSUs?

 

Remember that the pinout on the PSU side is not the same across different brand PSUs.

 

Also, you don't need that second CPU power connector at all.  Not for a 3700x.

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8 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

Was that first cable you were using made to use with Corsair PSUs?

 

Remember that the pinout on the PSU side is not the same across different brand PSUs.

 

Also, you don't need that second CPU power connector at all.  Not for a 3700x.

It looked like all the other cables but I guess it could have been from a different PSU maybe? I'm not sure though as it was the same style so I assumed it was the Corsair one, though I have a lot of PC'S, Parts, boxes and cables so might have been mixed up. Thanks for.your help though! Saved me from a heart attack hahah

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7 hours ago, lewis wruk said:

It looked like all the other cables but I guess it could have been from a different PSU maybe? I'm not sure though as it was the same style so I assumed it was the Corsair one, though I have a lot of PC'S, Parts, boxes and cables so might have been mixed up. Thanks for.your help though! Saved me from a heart attack hahah

The Corsair one would have said "Type 3" or "Type 4" on the connector that plugs into the PSU.

 

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