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Overclock Corruption

Viscount Oli
By Viscount Oli
in Troubleshooting
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Posted

Hi All,

 

So recently decided to update a super old rig of mine (new specs below) for a dedicated living room PC. Had everything running smoothly at stock with W10 installed (fresh installation from a few days ago).

 

Attempted an overclock as per Tech YES city's "How to OVERCLOCK X58 6 CORE Xeons...!" video - so nothing crazy. Instantly upon applying the overclock I was greeted with no boot device detected. Reset the BIOS to my stable default and tried again, same message, cleared the CMOS, same message etc. Booted into the W10 USB I had created to install the original W10 install, which took a weirdly long time (5-10 minutes before the spinning circle appeared), and tried the repair tool but to no avail. Then checked the disks using diskpart and found my boot drive had been completely wiped clean which I've never seen before from an overclock. Rebooted again to check the install page of windows and sure enough, drive was completely empty. Went back to Diskpart and cleaned the disk just to make sure it was formatted before I tried to reinstall W10.

 

Rebooted again and tried to boot into the W10 USB again, but was greeted with a BSOD - Critical Process Died error (something I've never experienced from a W10 USB), rebooted once more and managed to get through to the install page and upon trying to reinstall windows, about 30% into the installation I was greeted by error code: 0x8007025D "Windows cannot install required files. Make sure that all files required for installation are available and restart the installation.". 

 

I assume the W10 USB is corrupt, but that doesn't explain why it worked perfectly for the original install (haven't touched it till now) and why a pretty megre overclock completely wiped the drive. Any idea what an earth is going on, and what I should attempt moving forward? Any suggested changes to hardware etc.?

 

CPU    Intel Xeon X5680
CPU Cooler    Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition
Thermal Paste    Noctua NT-H1
Motherboard    Asus Sabertooth X58 TUF (1402)
RAM    Mushkin Ridgeback 12GB (6x2) DDR3
GPU    MSI GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB GDRR5
Sound Card    Asus Xonar D2X
SSD 1 - OS 1    Corsair Nova V128 SATA II - 128GB
HDD - Storage 1    WD Black 2.5" - 750GB
SSD 2 - OS 2    Corsair Nova V128 SATA II - 128GB
PSU    Corsair AX850 - 850w 80+ Gold
Case    Cooler Master MasterBox Q500L
Case Fans 1    Xigmatek XLF 120mm - Blue / White LED x4
Case Fans 2    Xigmatek XLF 140mm - Blue / White LED x2
OS 1    Windows 10 Home (1903)

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X

Motherboard: Asus ROG X470-I Gaming

Cooling: Corsair H80i V2

RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DRR4 16GB

GPU: AMD RX 580 Sapphire Nitro+

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Shift 

Storage: Samsung 850 Pro 128GB (OS) + Western Digital Blue 3TB (Storage) 

PSU: Corsair SF600

OS: Windows 10 Home

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Posted

Maybe the SATA ports went out? This thing is old, so....

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Posted
43 minutes ago, Viscount Oli said:

Hi All,

 

So recently decided to update a super old rig of mine (new specs below) for a dedicated living room PC. Had everything running smoothly at stock with W10 installed (fresh installation from a few days ago).

 

Attempted an overclock as per Tech YES city's "How to OVERCLOCK X58 6 CORE Xeons...!" video - so nothing crazy. Instantly upon applying the overclock I was greeted with no boot device detected. Reset the BIOS to my stable default and tried again, same message, cleared the CMOS, same message etc. Booted into the W10 USB I had created to install the original W10 install, which took a weirdly long time (5-10 minutes before the spinning circle appeared), and tried the repair tool but to no avail. Then checked the disks using diskpart and found my boot drive had been completely wiped clean which I've never seen before from an overclock. Rebooted again to check the install page of windows and sure enough, drive was completely empty. Went back to Diskpart and cleaned the disk just to make sure it was formatted before I tried to reinstall W10.

 

Rebooted again and tried to boot into the W10 USB again, but was greeted with a BSOD - Critical Process Died error (something I've never experienced from a W10 USB), rebooted once more and managed to get through to the install page and upon trying to reinstall windows, about 30% into the installation I was greeted by error code: 0x8007025D "Windows cannot install required files. Make sure that all files required for installation are available and restart the installation.". 

 

I assume the W10 USB is corrupt, but that doesn't explain why it worked perfectly for the original install (haven't touched it till now) and why a pretty megre overclock completely wiped the drive. Any idea what an earth is going on, and what I should attempt moving forward? Any suggested changes to hardware etc.?

 

CPU    Intel Xeon X5680
CPU Cooler    Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition
Thermal Paste    Noctua NT-H1
Motherboard    Asus Sabertooth X58 TUF (1402)
RAM    Mushkin Ridgeback 12GB (6x2) DDR3
GPU    MSI GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB GDRR5
Sound Card    Asus Xonar D2X
SSD 1 - OS 1    Corsair Nova V128 SATA II - 128GB
HDD - Storage 1    WD Black 2.5" - 750GB
SSD 2 - OS 2    Corsair Nova V128 SATA II - 128GB
PSU    Corsair AX850 - 850w 80+ Gold
Case    Cooler Master MasterBox Q500L
Case Fans 1    Xigmatek XLF 120mm - Blue / White LED x4
Case Fans 2    Xigmatek XLF 140mm - Blue / White LED x2
OS 1    Windows 10 Home (1903)

Try using the boot drive on another computer, and, as @Jurrunio said, the SATA port may not be functioning fully, so try another one.

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/averagebilly/saved/cnYKBm

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Posted (edited)
  • Author

Edit: Tried my boot drive from my main PC using the same SATA port and cable and it simply goes to a black screen with the white flashing underline and doesn't make it any further (This is also the case with the W10 USB, but with the USB it does eventually make it to the windows loading screen, after a minute or so). Tried it on two different SATA ports with a different cable and had the same result.

 

My original plan was to swap to the SATA port used in the second test above for the boot drive, and use the same newer cable just to be on the safe side. Then recreate a new W10 USB for a fresh install and see if that all works - I'll still try this but I'm not hopeful.

 

Edit 2: Just completed the second paragraph, so used the new W10 USB to reinstall windows and everything installed fine, and it's even booted up into Windows just fine. Was it just a dead SATA port then? But that doesn't explain it not booting off my main PC's boot drive or was it something else entirely? I do have a second X58 Asus Sabertooth motherboard laying around so would it be worth perhaps swapping my current one for that? Not entirely comfortable that everything is actually fine now.

 

Thanks for the advice!

 

Edit 3: After thinking I might just be in the clear, having configured W10 again. I now get a BSOD upon booting of "Inaccessible Boot Device". 

 

Edit 4: Ignore Edit 3, I was a moron and accidentally installed W10 with IDE mode set at the BIOS and not AHCI, and then was trying to boot in AHCI mode.

Edited by Viscount Oli

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X

Motherboard: Asus ROG X470-I Gaming

Cooling: Corsair H80i V2

RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DRR4 16GB

GPU: AMD RX 580 Sapphire Nitro+

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Shift 

Storage: Samsung 850 Pro 128GB (OS) + Western Digital Blue 3TB (Storage) 

PSU: Corsair SF600

OS: Windows 10 Home

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