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  1. WD Black 4TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s 256MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD4005FZBX VS WD Blue 4TB Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 5400 RPM SATA 6Gb/s 256MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD40EZAZ - OEM
  2. I recently added a 240GB BX500 for OS and using the 1TB WD Blue as purely storage drive (formatted). The game loading times and other applications run fine from it, but any data tranfser which I attempt seems to be very slow.. While transferring some video from HDD to an external USB (3.1), the speeds never exceed 30 MBps.. I've tried different USBs and storage devices, but they all max out around 30MBps.. Also, while transferring files of size few hundred MBs, the drive shows being used 100% in task manager (Which never happened while it was used as a boot drive) What may be causing this? My specs: CPU: Ryzen 3 2200G RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus B450M Drives: Crucial BX500 240GB WD Blue 1TB WD10EZEX
  3. I am trying to connect a WD Blue hard drive in a Vantec NexStar TX to my laptop. I believe I've installed the drive into the enclosure correctly, and I know the wires aren't at fault. I'm also confident my USB port works, because the light on the enclosure lights up when the enclosure is turned on, and turns green when connected to my computer. Also, other things connect normally via USB with no issues. I've gotten some help from a friend, and between different ports on my computer and ports on his, our computers simply don't recognize the disk. We've checked the support pages, and couldn't find drivers. WD says that might be the issue, but my drivers are up to date, and they provide no download. Everything support pages tell us to do, we have done or cannot do at present. My drive is 1 TB at 7200 rpm with 64 MB of cache, and the page for it is here. My enclosure is here. My computer is a Surface Book 3, page here. Specifically, it has a 13.5 inch screen, 16 GB of RAM, and 256 GB of storage. I'm running Windows 10 Home, 64 bit. I have ensured everything was plugged in and turned on. I have tested and ensured that the external power adapter and the usb cord both work to some extent.
  4. Will the Crucial bx500 240GB be good for a boot drive and some games. I have a 1TB HDD for my large games. I'll just keep games that take a long time to load on the SSD. I'll mainly be using it as a boot drive. The Crucial MX500 240G and WD blue 240G both are about 14 USD more than the bx500 in my area. But Amazon can't deliver the mx500 in my area right now. The WD Blue is available. So should I just go for the bx500 or spend 14 bucks more and get the WD Blue. I really don't wanna spend the extra 14 if I'm not gonna notice a difference in day to day usage. I'm already over budget.
  5. I just bought a WD Blue SN550 m.2 nvme drive and I installed it on my pc, but it doesn't show up in Windows. It shows up in the bios and in device manager under disk drives. My components are: Mobo: gigabyte b450m ds3h CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 CPU cooler: Thermaltake UX100 GPU: msi aero 1070 8gb oc Power supply: CORSAIR CV Series CV550 SSD: WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB Internal SSD Ram: G.SKILL 16GB 2X8GB DDR4 3200 KIT
  6. The 1tb models, wether from 2013 or 2019/20 are they all built the same? are there any minor differences in quality? are certain models/ revisions better?
  7. It only sounds like this when I emulate games in rpcs3, which is stored on the HDD and sometimes it also happens during casual use for very brief seconds. My GPU has coil whine, but the noise in this case seems different from that one and seems to come from the HDD. It's making me go nuts. Is this normal? I checked for bad sectors and errors in HD Tune and CrystalDiskInfo and the HDD seems to be fine. 1193502371_Img3878.m4v
  8. WD BLUE SSD 2 TB, it has about 800 GB of files. Suddenly while doing nothing more than viewing a YouTube video and deciding to save it the SSD disappeared! It does not seem to be visible on Windows nor the BIOS. I've disconnected/reconnected both the data cable and power several times and rebooted the computer. God, please anyone, please help me get this back? A tool on WD's website called Dashboard when I run it, it just crashes and no other tools are on the WD website for my needs. Help?
  9. wont waste ur time reading, samsung 980 pro had that firmware flaw, i wonder if my WD Blue SN570 500GB nvme has some kind of issues too.. do anyone know if they heard of any such suspecious thing about WD blue sn570 NVMEs? any specific FIRMWARE that is bad? i know wd blue sn550 had that bait-and-swap thing about components before. but i think my sn570 is clear of that cuz its working as advertised... im just wondering if i need to update my firmware or something...or something hidden thing screwing me in the ass later down the road...
  10. its controller and NAND chip has the same number as the original (ill hv to doublecheck that) but its made in CHINA instead of Taiwan. i dont know but the iops are low(maybe cuz one cpu core was running at 100%?), the sequential speeds after cache exhausts is around 350-400MBps.and i think the cache is 6gb... and i regret it so badly rn.. its the 2nd day of it with me please guys help. i need this for family photos... and also as bootdrive..
  11. I have a brand new Gigabyte Aero 15S OLED NA laptop that is less than a week old. Using Gigabyte's website, I have already updated the drivers, bios firmware, windows 10 updates, etc... I was also able to successfully add a 2nd stick of 8GB DDR 4 RAM to the open RAM slot. Now I am attempting to add a WD Blue SN550 1TB SSD to the open "NVMe/SATA" slot on my motherboard. When I turn on the laptop, it does not boot past the Gigabyte logo. It has the prompts for Bios, Recovery, and BBS Popup, but none of these options work when i press the corresponding key. I turn it off, remove the new 1TB drive, and it works without issue. The motherboard has two m.2 slots. the main drive is populated in the slot labeled "NVMe". Thinking it was an issue with the slot, i switched the main boot drive (a 256 GB Intel SSD) into the open "NVMe/SATA" slot and turned it on. It booted without problem. I then turned it back off and added tne new WD Blue drive to the now open "NVMe" slot, turned it on and received the same issue where it would boot only to the Gigabyte logo, give me the same prompts for bios, etc. and none of them work work, and it would not boot further. I then thought maybe the new RAM i added was doing something. I then decided to remove the additional 8GB from the 2nd RAM slot. After this, it booted with the 2nd drive in it. I was able to get into the disk manager and format the drive. So, to see if this was a one off, i checked that the drive was available in file explorer and restarted the laptop... back to not getting past the Gigabyte logo. I then tried switching back the drives (original SSD in the "NVMe" slot, WD Blue in the "NVMe/SATA" slot, again, wouldn't boot. I then put the 8GB RAM back into the 2nd RAM slot, took out the WD blue... booted without issues... I'm at my wits end... I'm out of ideas on what I need to do to get this drive working.
  12. Hi everyone, The title says it all pretty much. I currently have a Western Digital WD Green WD20EARX 2TB in my system and looking to backup that drive because I'm planing to upgrade to Windows 10. I will be using an SSD for Windows 10 and using the current HDD for everything else, but I want and need to backup the contents on that HDD before doing the Windows 10 installation. *One thing I had in mind was if I go with the WD Blue I could use that as my primary storage along with the current WD Green because if I'm correct, the WD Blue performs better. I look forward to your advice and insight. Thanks!
  13. Hello everyone, I would firstly thank you for coming on over to check out my problem! For a while now, I have noticed my computer slowing down. I have checked software and there are no issues to be found! Next, I thought it would have to be my memory or hard drive. Currently1600 Crucial Ballistix (about a year or two old) and a 1tb WD blue hard drive (also a year or two old). To test I ran CrystalDiskMark5 and here are the results: ----------------------------------------------------------------------- CrystalDiskMark 5.1.2 x64 (C) 2007-2016 hiyohiyo Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/ ----------------------------------------------------------------------- * MB/s = 1,000,000 bytes/s [SATA/600 = 600,000,000 bytes/s] * KB = 1000 bytes, KiB = 1024 bytes Sequential Read (Q= 32,T= 1) : 40.500 MB/s Sequential Write (Q= 32,T= 1) : 28.180 MB/s Random Read 4KiB (Q= 32,T= 1) : 0.371 MB/s [ 90.6 IOPS] Random Write 4KiB (Q= 32,T= 1) : 0.457 MB/s [ 111.6 IOPS] Sequential Read (T= 1) : 34.183 MB/s Sequential Write (T= 1) : 21.182 MB/s Random Read 4KiB (Q= 1,T= 1) : 0.076 MB/s [ 18.6 IOPS] Random Write 4KiB (Q= 1,T= 1) : 0.644 MB/s [ 157.2 IOPS] Test : 1024 MiB [C: 69.0% (642.6/930.7 GiB)] (x5) [Interval=5 sec] Date : 2017/02/02 17:55:11 OS : Windows 10 [10.0 Build 14393] (x64) Now, I'm no hard drive master, but dang, this seems real slow. If these speeds look bad to you as well, which options should I take to improve it? Currently, I'm leaning toward getting an SSD (I only use 400gb without photos). Thank you everybody! - Ethan
  14. And i tell you what, this sound is even more annoying than coil while. It sounds like someone dragging a rock very audibly. Or you might say it sounds like a bubbling noise in a box. My phone only recorded air, but i could hear it from 3 meters away! Probably seek noise? How do i fix it?
  15. Hey! I'm looking to build a new PC. I will be using a 240GB SSD, and a 1TB HDD, the two I am looking at is the WD Black 1TB & Blue 1TB. I've done some research and found out that the WD Blue 1TB is about the same as the WD Black 1TB, but the Blue is $20 cheaper. I've also heard that the Black is more reliable. Out of the two, which one would you guys suggest?
  16. First Up, I wanna thank the whole linustechtips community which helped me decide my new build (many of the components including SSD, have arrived). Coincidentally (in a bad way) my old computer started hanging after 2 minutes of turning it on. I thought it was hard drive problem, so I hooked up the new SSD (Samsung 850 Evo 500gb) that I have & installed a fresh copy of Windows 7 on it and wanted to see my old HDD as secondary drive. The procedure was successful and I'm able to see most of the files in my old Hard Drive, but I have some video editing data stored on the Desktop (of old Hard Drive). F:/Users/FAMILY (FAMILY is name of my old computer) shows the size to be 0 bytes and I cannot open it. Any way to recover data from my old desktop? Thanks
  17. Hi all, I have 2 main questions regarding the storage solutions for my new PC build. What I have right now: 1 x OZS M.2 SSD - NVMe (256GB) - wasn't planning on buying this initially but picked up one cheap on amazon. 1 x Crucial MX-100 SSD - Sata (512GB) - this I have already for my current PC, and intend to keep for the new one. What I still need to get: 1 x WD HDD 2TB Since the HDD would be pretty much only for storage purposes, and viewing media files etc, would anybody here recommend getting a WD Red drive? Advantages seem to be running cooler, vibration dampening, ability to run in a Raid system (not sure I will do that anyway though) and quiet operation. Disadvantage would seem to be the TLER function - but how much of a disadvantage is this really for everyday operation? WD Black seems a bit overkill since all my programs, games and OS should run off the 2 SSD's WD Blue would be the other option, but if blue, would you then recommend 2 x 1TB 7200rpm drives, or 1 x 2TB 5400rpm drive? Reading up the 5400rpm ones are the old WD Green standard I believe. So if its pretty much a WD Green, why not go for the Red instead. Regarding the SSD's; Would it be better to use the NVMe SSD (256gb) for games installs, and larger programs, and run the OS off the Sata (512gb) SSD? Or run the OS from the NVMe device, along with a couple of the more intensive games? How much does it really make a difference if you would run the OS from a Sata or NVMe drive in the end?
  18. So this seems like borderline pricing error levels of savings: http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/wd-blue-pc-ssd-wds250g1b0a-solid-state-drive-250-gb-internal-2-5-inch-sata-6gb-s/apd/a9301054/storage-drives-media I just picked up two for an HTPC and any other forthcoming projects because for that price....why the f**k not??? **EDIT** Price Confirmed, just successfully placed an order. Shipping is FREE as well.
  19. I wanted to put to use and old samsung 160gb hdd that I had, plugged the drive but when I start the PC It beeps and the fans spin but there's no display, if I disconnected it, it still has no display And the only way I found to make it work os plugging it to my TV with a HDMI cable. the pc then starts on "repairing mode" and goes back to normal.
  20. I'm in the process of putting together a build in a Mastercase Pro 5, which has 5 HDD bays and 2 SSD bays. I'm currently looking at 1 Samsung 850 Evo 500gb and 2 WD Black 2tb. and 4tbs of high-performance hard drive storage seems a little extreme. so would 1 WD Black 2tb and 1 WD Blue 4tb be better? I'm going to be recording almost all of my gaming sessions in CSGO and Overwatch
  21. Full specs: CPU: Intel i7 6700k GPU: GTX 1070 Mobo: Asus z170 Pro Gaming RAM: 2x8 Corsair Vengeance LPX 2400MHz PSU: Coolermaster v550 SSD: Samsung EVO 850 2XHDD: WD Blue (1 bought 3 years ago with everything else, 1 bought few months ago) So my problem is, that when running games from the HDDs(both of them) games will freeze randomly for like 0.5-1 sec, whole screen will freeze so for example in CS:GO i might walk to a corner and maybe because someone will be on the other end, i freeze and when screen comes back i'm already dead. In other games it happens during some sudden changes in the environment or during the beginning of the game(some minigames i play). I tested all my drives, ran extended tests on both my hdds with WD data lifeguard and also checked with crystaldisk. I also tried disabling sleep mode, editing the registry so the LPM state is set to active, and also tried a solution about ssd being disabled with registry inputs again. This problem started really early when i bought my computer but i didn't mind since it didn't happen as often as now, i have upgraded to windows 10 since then thinking it might solve the problem but there was no change whatsoever. Problem kinda got worse when i installed the second HDD which makes me wonder about the psu maybe? I also ran a memtest ( 1 pass extended) which found no errors. Thing is every topic i found is about either possibly damaged HDD or faulty ssd, tho when i run games installed in ssd(even the games previously mentioned) freeze won't occur. Other info that might be relevant is that, when i bought my pc, i had a buzzing sound with my psu, i returned it, guy said it was coil whine. Thing is i had my pc plugged in a cheap power strip. so when i powered up my computer(button on the back) electricity in the room would go down and i had to manually reopen it. The same buzzing sound happens now when i'm in game and for any reason i alt tab, while moving the mouse i hear the same exact sound.
  22. Hello everyone, Todays reason for me to come to the realm of tech (LTT Forums) is because I recently found an old HDD that I used to use as my main drive. its a 1TB WD Blue from about 2016~ which contains a lot of files with sentimental value for me. (Backups from a few files I had on my first PC) sadly the SATA Connector is fully broken off and only the pins are still there (check pics). I originally thought about changing the controller but then thought that might be a bad idea. does anyone have any ideas how of fix this?
  23. So I got my friends old HDD (2years old), but it's making a weird sound. I'm currently formatting the drive. I've attached a file of the noise. Is that normal? Edit:By ''is that normall'' I mean is that a signal of failure? Update: it is no longer making a sound. Is that good? I haven't heard it all day and it stopped after I formatted the drive MOV_0011.mp4
  24. Age old battle between two big giants, just like intel vs AMD, Nvidia vs AMD, Apple vs the World, and here WD vs Seagate... In particular Seagate Barracuda vs WD Blue. Both as internal 2.5 inch secondary drive and 3.5 inch data storage drive. In both case, Seagate is cheaper, not by a lot (less than 5 USD). With price that close I used to wanting to get WD Blues, but not since WD merged Blue and Green... and WD have less cache... (plus I used mostly Seagate drives...) 2TB 2.5 inch secondary drive Seagate ST2000LM015 (128MB, 5400RPM) WD Blue WD20SPZX (128MB, 5400RPM) 4TB 3.5 inch desktop data storage drive (will use hard drive bay and USB hard drive base) Seagate ST4000DM004 (256MB, 5400RPM) WD Blue WD40EZRZ (64MB, 5400RPM) I wonder if these two WD drives were Re-labeled WD Greens... and that 256MB caches is rather attractive. Of course, if there is any recommendations to a similar teir/usage Toshiba hard drive or other brands, I will consider those too. THANKS.
  25. Hey all, recently I bought a 2TB HDD from Best Buy, and it's been working fine so far, however, one thing that has always concerned me is that whenever I shut down my pc, right before the windows screen that says 'shutting down' goes to black, I hear a quick second and a half kind of screech from the Hard Drive. It definitely sounds electrical, and have no idea why it would be doing that in the first place. I just bought an EVGA 750 Watt PSU as well, so it's not like my Power Supply is the problem. Not sure what to make of this; what do you guys and gals think?
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