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Hello people, I recently started building a new PC from mostly used parts. When I tried to boot it for the first time with my SSD from old system (Windows 10) the SSD and my other hard drives only appeared on the SATA Information list. I could not boot to Windows since I did not find any way to select my SSD as booting device. I'm using an ASUS AX370-Gaming 3 motherboard and a Ryzen 7 1700. Does anyone have an idea how I could fix this issue or start troubleshooting? Thank you in advance :)

Hi, as per title my question is, how do i power limit a 8600k or any 8th gen intel cpu? I couldnt find anything online about, maybe my wording is wrong but i kinda undestand, you wouldn't usuall power limit a k cpu. I have it laying around and i intend to use it to replace the 3770 that is have in my home server (jellyfin/nas/file sharing),it run open media vault. I was looking for an 8400t but hey i already have this. I;m asking this because i'm used to the amd way where you can limit the power a cpu can draw but i don't know if i can do the ssame on an intel cpu. Any chance someone knows?

Here is my build: Intel Core i9-13900 GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Master EATX Motherboard with DDR5 CORSAIR VENGEANCE DDR5 RAM 96GB (2x48GB) 5200MHz CL38 I just started to put this together and wanted to make sure the basics would get me to the BIOS. I installed the CPU, CPU cooler, 2 sticks of memory, nothing else. I connected my monitor to the onboard DP port. Turn it on, the MB goes through the various stages of the 2 red error codes display and then stops at "Ad" This indicated "Issue Ready To Boot event for OS Boot". I said, ok, great, but where is the screen output? The monitor is just sitting there complaining about no input. The i9 13900 is supposed to have integrated GPU so I expect it to see the integrated GPU as the graphics card. Based on the error, I am assuming it can't. I should also add. The 4 light LED at the bottom has the "VGA" lit.. Tried with one stick of memory, 2 sticks of memory. Reset CMOS shorting the pins (while unplugged). I can't figure out what else to check. Do I have a DOA MB? Do I have a DOA CPU? Both?

I downloaded plural input to have two cursors on my screen once I added one mouse the cursor disappeared, foolishly I added the other one and now both of them are gone. I uninstalled pluralinput from control pannel and also uninstalled the driver via command prompt. Yet everytime I plug in any mouse (doesn't have to be the one I set up with pluralinput) it comes back as "PluraInput". I have plugged in 4 different mice now and all of them show up in the name "pluralinput". I. Need. Help. (i have rebooted my system several times) the mice I added to plural input were 1 logitech mouse(wired) and 1 standard dell wired mouse, the 2 I plugged in after uninstalling the program and driver and still showed up as pluralinput were 1 standard dell mouse and 1 amazon gaming mouse. it was already such a hassle to even get to this forum and getting to the posting page using only tab and enter. help is greatly needed and appreciated Sorry about the picture of my screen from my phone but there really is no other way

Hello I know this isn't usually a Mac forum, but hoping someone can help regardless. I have a 15" Macbook Pro 2019 with an i9 cpu and 32 gb's of ram. The problem is that it refuses to update. It can start the update. It can run the update, but once it reaches 99% it crashes and says an error has occured during installation, please try installing macos again. Here's what I've attempted so far: Installed updates through Appstore Installed MacOS through USB installer Wipe the harddrive (which in turn mean't i couldn't install macos at all) Reset NVRAM Tried internet recovery (option-command-r) Managed to get Macos Mojave installed through internet recovery (shift-option-command-r) Any ideas?

Hey folks, I recently bought Framework 13 AMD Ryzen™ 5 7640U laptop, and because USB4 is compatible with TB3, I thought to find a good clearance deal on TB3 docks. Any recommendation on which brand/series I should look for? considering it would be fully compatible with framework AMD version laptop. Thanks, Bell

Hi! For the past year, I could not play Apex Legends because it crashes at the startup without any error message. I have tried reinstalling drivers, updating bios, and starting the game with DX12, capping FPS to 60 etc, verified ingame files, also started the game in clean boot but it still crashed. Do you have any ideas on how I can fix unknown crashing? In the event viewer, I get this error message: Faulting application name: r5apex.exe, version: 1.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x65bd531e Faulting module name: nvgpucomp64.dll, version: 31.0.15.5152, time stamp: 0x65c3b4a9 Exception code: 0xc0000005 Fault offset: 0x0000000001430c69 Faulting process ID: 0x0x4C8 Faulting application start time: 0x0x1DA5F57DD20D84E Faulting application path: H:\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\Apex Legends\r5apex.exe Faulting module path: C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository\nvmdig.inf_amd64_af623d743ca2092d\nvgpucomp64.dll Report ID: f9161645-d8d4-4d27-a47e-bfe3f008a6da Faulting package full name: Faulting package-relative application ID: Best regards Clue

- Xiaomi MI a3, stop receiving OS or security update year ago, I doubt it was some google update with the google app - Just change new battery 3 days ago, phone behave normal, charge a bit slow but hold charge so much better than the old one. - I was curious, so I download some CPU monitor app, it displays my CPU is hover between 50-100%???, I don't have control test, so I don't know what "normal" look like, is there an app monitor to show which app is running right now?

Hey fellow Techlovers, i have a problem with my cursor teleporting from my main monitor to my second as soon as i come close to the edge of my monitor. Is there anything i can do to prevent this from happening? Any Software you would recommend? I'm on Windows 11 Pro with 3 Monitors. Eizo FS2434 1080p (left) - Omen 32q 4k (middle) - Eizo FS2434 1080p (right) in this configuration Hey fellow Techlovers, i have a problem with my cursor teleporting from my main monitor to my second as soon as i come close to the edge of my monitor. Is there anything i can do to prvent this from happening? Any Software you would recommend? Here is my try to visualize the problem lol. greetings from Germany :)

My current build An Asus PRIME H610M-R Motherboard Antec HCG-750w Gold An Intel I5 12400 16gb Ram 2 HDD and 2 SSD ASUS ROG Strix Radeon RX 5700 XT OC Edition So I am in the process of putting in a second hand ASUS ROG Strix Radeon RX 5700 XT OC Edition that I just bought, and I am having an issue posting. This is the first time I am putting a graphics card in my system, I used to use the igpu. My install process was downloading the driver "Adrenalin 23.12.1" (they updated it yesterday after I downloaded, but I have now also tried Adrenalin 24.1.1. Still same issue). Running ddu in safe mode with Ethernet disconnected, clean and shutdown. Then I put the GPU in. I can't really say I heard a loud click, but I have tried and tried again without forcing, and it seems in there. I then plugged in mouse, monitor and keyboard and switched on. It posted fine, so I ran the driver install., and then opened harwaremonitor to look at temps, which were around 50C. My screen started flickering black and then through one of the flashes I saw a blue screen, but I couldn't read it fast enough and it switched off. Switched it on again, wouldn't post. Took the GPU out and ran off of the igpu and it posted. Ran ddu again, reinstalled the GPU and tried to switch on but no post. There is power going to everything I checked the cables, the fans are spinning and there are LEDs on the GPUs near the power cables that are on. I assume it's a driver issue, seeing that it happened after I ran the installer. What should my next step in troubleshooting be? I appreciate the help. Edit: So I managed to fix it myself, and here is an update on what I did. So, using the integrated graphics, I booted into windows. In device manager, there were a few devices with yellow exclamation marks, see attached picture. I looked up their dev and Ven numbers and found out what they are for. Alder lake-s pch spi controller, Alder lake-s pch serial io i2c controller #0, Alder lake-s pch SMBus Controller, Volume management device NVMe RAID Controller. I then found the drivers on the respective websites, installed them and ran Windows update, which then found what I think was a motherboard firmware update (it wasn't found by Windows update before). I restarted and Asus EZ flash3 utility ran automatically. After it was done, I shut down the pc and inserted the new graphics card. The system booted into windows and I ran the AMD adrenalin installer to get the gpu driver, choosing to do a factory reset for the drivers. Now it is running great. I hope this helps someone else having the same problem.

Basically, what the title says. I have some mentions though: The scratch was highlighted using a blue circle I don't have practical skills when it comes to sanding or using some type of can spary I tried using a black marker, but it got a weird tint and doesn't look good with the color of the case To be more specific, I'm wanting something to cover it so it doesn't stick out too much, but I don't want to go through some complicated process just to get the same color as the rest of the case. Thanks in advanced!

So basically, yesterday I've built a new PC for a friend with these components: Ryzen5 7600 ASrock B650M-H/M.2+ Kingston Furry Renegade 1TB beQuiet! Pure Power 12M, 80+Gold, 750 W Sapphire Pulse 7800XT Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB DDR5 6000 MHz CL36 Dual Kit (CMH32GX5M2E6000Z36) Corsair 4000D Deepcool AK400 Arctic MX-4 After building it, the fans didn't turn, only the RGB lights on the RAM worked and I got the LED warning lights for CPU and DRAM on the motherboard. I want to mention that the cpu and moba came as a kit in which the cpu was preinstalled on the moba and I installed the aftermarket cooler on it. But after seeing that in like 10 min nothing happened, I turned it of. RIght now I've contacted support to see what to do, maybe there is a faulty component or something. One more thing that I've tried to do is to check with only 1 stick of RAM, but got the same issue. Also, after all this, I removed the cpu to check if the socket got bent pins, but everything seemed fine. But, as a newbie, I forgot to clean the thermal paste before removing it and I got a little bit on the cpu part which makes contact with the pins on moba. Is it a problem if I just wipe that off? (I used Arctic MX-4, which is non conductive, so in theory just wiping should do the trick, right?). Thanks in advanced for the help and I wish a good day/night to everyone!

Hello everybody, I'm here to ask for help! I just built my new PC thanks to your recommendations in my first post. Everything went right, didn't had any problem on my first time starting it up, stress tests in AIDA64 went as expected. But then my boot time went all the way to 62 seconds, still no problems in stress tests. I turned off all the start up apps and nothing changed. I'm running Windows 11 for this build. Also, as I am powering my PC I'm getting a red and yellow LED in the motherboard, and according to the manual, those mean: CPU - indicates CPU is not detected or fail. DRAM - indicates DRAM is not detected or fail. But as I said before, it posts anyway. Thank you for time and help! I hope I didn't break anything

Finishing a new build for a friend and all went well during physical build, put windows installer on flash drive and got to setup but didn't see any w-ifi networks available. Tried rebooting and disconnecting antenna multiple times. Tried direct ethernet connection and same deal. Booted into BIOS and even with direct ethernet from router the bios screen says that ethernet port is disconnected on I/O page. Figured maybe a driver update would help but Aorus only includes windows .exe files for driver updates... Feeling a bit lost at this point with the only option I know of being to reflash the BIOS. If anyone else has experienced similar issues or has ideas for solutions I'd love some help. MOBO: Aorus z790 extreme x CPU: Intel core i9 13900k Wifi 7 Antenna included with board

I was moving around my psu recently and I dropped a tool on the fan and a blade broke off , but I have these case fans that I dont use that are lying around and I wired it up and tested in with the psu and it worked, the only issue is that the fan is a tiny bit smaller and has more fan blades, It's extremley quiet too. I also measured using my hand and noticed that the case fan has noticably more airflow compared to the OG psu fan. Is it safe to use the case fan? It has more blades and seemingly more airflow but I don't want to run my pc using a diy psu fan without knowing. The PSU is 400 watts, there are images linked of the fans.

Hi, I'm going to buy a new PC and I don't want to get rid of my current one. So I was thinking to put it next to my TV and use for couch party gaming. The main specs are just: CPU: i5-8600k MB: ROG STRIX Z370-G GAMING (WI-FI AC) PSU: Seasonic Focus PX 750 (I won't have a GPU) I'd like to buy the most compact/smaller case to fit these components and put it next to my TV occupying the least amount of space possible, what would you recommend?

I have a feeling I know what the issue is. my system randomly just blacks out, instant complete loss of power, it then reboots. I can not seem to find any error logs. It happens when more than a few 100W draw happens, so I think this is a PSU slowly failing.

Friend gave me his PC the power supply is plugged in and everything however not getting any feedback at all, no light on the motherboard no fans nothing, I tried 3 PSU total and nothing what can I do and what am I doing wrong. Ps. Also tested the cable to the wall and it’s reading fine

The downloaded installer from creative fails. Somebody suggested extracting that download and poking around in those files. That works, just a registry file.

Yo I upgraded my ram this morning from 16 to 32gb and my pc crashes while gaming , corsair vengeance lpx 32gb 2x16gb DDR4 3600mhz is the exact ram I am talking about I checked if I installed it correctly three times and the ram is installed correctly , I checked bios and changed AI TWEAKER setting to auto (it was on D.O.C.P) previously and crashing stopped but memory was locked on 2166 ... If I bought 3600mhz memory I want to use it all and if my motherboard and cpu support it why shouldnt I. Pc specs: Motherboard : TUF GAMING b-450 plus gaming CPU: ryzen 5 3600 GPU: rx 580 8gb RAM: corsair vengeance lpx 32gb 2x16gb DDR4 3600mhz This was my first time installing ram and I have no experiance but I think the problem could be that the voltage is to low or bios settings , my pc is 3 years old and I never updated bios just fyi

Me and my buddy had to spend some time fixing his brand-new iPhone 15 because his custom text tones were gone on IOS 17. The feature still existed on my older iPhone which was on IOS 16. I would not be surprised if Apple is just forcing you to use the "TONE STORE" Here is the documented process pulled from Reddit. this was on Apple forms but it got deleted... figured I would copy and post it here to AND I QUOTE ""Here are directions for a workaround that worked for me to create custom text tones in iOS 17 (works as of iOS 17.0.1). These are for custom text tones that were not purchased through the iTunes Store. Copy the desired ringtones and text tones to the iPhone using iTunes You can’t have two copies of the same file (even with different metadata). So if you want a custom sound to be both a ringtone and a text tone, then you should re-encode it to make the file different. (Optional) Name the files and metadata to distinguish between ringtones and text tones (alert tones), such as "Alert Tone - My Cool Sound" and "Awesome Ringer" or whatever. Download and install iMazing (https://imazing.com/download) I know there are other tools that work, but iMazing is what I used. On a Mac, which I sadly don't have, you might just be able to use Finder Download and install pList Editor Pro for Windows (https://www.icopybot.com/plist-editor.htm) (or some other pList editor) Open the iPhone in iMazing Go to File System --> Media/iTunes_Control/iTunes Copy the Ringtones.plist file to the PC Open the Ringtones.plist file in pList Editor Pro (or whatever pList Editor you choose) Go to the XML View Edit Ringtones.plist to add the following: For Alert Tones: <key>Media Kind</key> <string>tone</string> For Ringtones: <key>Media Kind</key> <string>ringtone</string> Save the edited Ringtones.plist file using pList Editor Pro Use iMazing to copy it back to the iPhone Overwrite the existing Ringtones.plist file Turn off the iPhone and turn it back on You should now see your custom alert tones on your iPhone when you go to Settings --> Sounds & Haptics --> Text Tone and you should be able to select them and use them. Likewise, you can use those custom text tones for specific contacts. Good luck! Hopefully Apple will fix this soon so a workaround isn't required.""

I have built a new pc. And I got a couple of weird errors. A few weeks ago I basically was able to install windows but constantly got bsods. Now I tried to troubleshoot that but it somehow got worse. What we did until now was: Swap out the MB Swap out the ram Swap out the SSD Swap out the installation stick Tried without gpu(used internal gpu in cpu instead) The specs of the pc are: 7700x 3070ti Asus ruf b650 Samsung ssd( not sure which one rn) The first image shows the error we have been getting when installing. The second shows an error we have been getting when we had a „working" windows install translated the first image says: Windows cannot install required files. Make sure that all files required for the installation are available and start the installation again. Error code: 0×8007025D also we did use the installation assistant to make the boot drive Edit: managed to fix it by updating the bios and or creating the boot stick via Rufus and an windows iso. if you get random bluescreent when building a new pc that might be a reason for that

I'm thinking of moving to a smaller keyboard but I don't want it to be wireless. I've seen some solid deals on complete Wired/BT/Wireless multi-connection keyboards and I'm tempted to just remove the battery and leave it in a wired mode, since I don't plan on having the battery discharging and don't want a swelling battery under my fingers. Has anyone done this and experienced issues from the battery being removed? Or has it been fine? My gut tells me its the latter.

I am renovating my attic into a home theatre/flight/driving simulator but my PC is located about 12 metres away at my desk. I have looked at powered 15m usb and hdmi extensions but I am unsure as to whether this would introduce latency to the system. I know that I could do this better with thunderbolt but I cannot afford a thunderbolt add-in card or a thunderbolt hub, so I'm wondering whether theres a possible solution that has less latency than long hdmi and usb cables, but cheaper than thunderbolt. Any help would be much appreciated.

You there Linus? MOBO: x470 pro. BIOS: Latest updated. Previous cpu: ryzen 7 2700x (everything worked fine). Steps taken already: -Reset network in W10 -Reset/Reinstalled Windows 10. -Checked for hidden devices (its not there). -Reset a lot of netsys stuff in cmd/run. -Reseated the Wifi card (Asus pce AC68 - 3 antenna). -Downloaded up-to-date AMD driver chipsets from Asus -Reinstalled the Wifi Card driver from Asus's website (multiple times). -Checked BIOS Settings and LAN is Enabled. -Googled around for this issue with no real connection between problems of this upgrade to others having this specific problem. The issue must be in the BIOS but I can't figure out what it is. Its not a power issue because my PSU is a Gold 650 watt and my requirements are only 519 watts according to part picker. Things I noticed though, after booting up my resolution is super small then a few seconds later its like my GPU kicks in then it looks good. My sound is no longer working but I think that has to do with resetting Windows 10, so Im going to reinstall the Realtec audio drivers. The only other thing I can think of is resetting the CMOS but I doubt that would be the case.