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Hi, Whats the use of standalone reservoir? Maybe sounds a dumb question but there is already a pump\res combo in each loop!

I want to run a custom loop in a Phanteks Evolv iTX. I'm cooling both the CPU and GPU, and have two 240mm radiators and some case mods to help. However, I don't have room for a reservoir. Even if I did, it would be a real pain to get at to actually fill the loop. It would also have to be so small that I'd have to fill the loop a half cup at a time, which seems like a royal pain. I was planning on using two sets of Bitspower quick-disconnects to pipe in a bay reservoir I have (I can mount this to a stand) to bleed the system, then basically take the reservoir out of the loop and re-close the loop once it's done bleeding. Doing the math on the thermal expansion of distilled water, I'm seeing that from about 20c (ambient-ish) to 60c (max water temp for the components), a liter of water will expand by .0084 liters, or a little more than a quarter of an ounce. I'm using soft tubing - 1/2" ID PrimoFlex Advanced LRT, and Bitspower fittings. Questions I have: Is this much expansion going to be an issue? Will it cause any issues of tubing wanting to pop off the fittings? Should I run the liquid until it's hot, and then disconnect the reservoir and close the loop? Or will this cause air to suck into the loop? Any other thoughts on this? I appreciate the feedback.

I have got all my pieces gathered and most of my parts installed, but have gotten stuck. I am trying to figure out where to put my pump and reservoir, the spot i was originally planing on is too small at two different points by about 1/8th of an inch. I would love to hear everyones thoughts and ideas. I was planning on a vertical mount behind the fans in front of the PS shroud and GPUs, but the pump part in itself is too big to let the reservore sit flush against the fans and the gap for the res between the GPUs and the fans is literally exactly the same size as the outer diameter of the reservoir. The only place I can really think to put it now, other than outside mounting, is horizontally on top of the ram... Thanks ahead of time for any suggestions and ideas.

I'm trying to find an alternative to EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM , i'm not too sure if I could just get something like Swiftech MCP655TM 12 VDC Laing D5 Vario Pump and combine it with Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 V2 Reservoir. If i could use the swiftech pump and bitspower res, could I just connect them with a male to male fitting? noob question: if i use distilled water, mayhem x1 dye, and petg tubing, do i need to use a kill coil?

I am working on a project for a custom pc case which is modeled off of the Death Star from Star Wars. It is going to be huge, almost 3 feet in diameter and 3 feet in height. I am mainly focusing on details and cosmetics rather than pc optimization. However, I would definitely like to water cool the cpu and maybe the gpu (depending on usage). The idea is to have a massive reservoir in the center of the case, similar to the large reactor in the Death Star. The largest reservoir I can find is only 1ft tall. I would like to have a reservoir that is at least 2ft or higher. I was wondering if anyone knew of a reservoir that tall, or if I would have to figure out how to make my own reservoir. Thanks, Andrew

Hello, I am having some difficulties on what pump I should buy for the new reservoir I have just purchased, the xspc Ion reservoir. Could anyone link me any good pumps??? thanks!! this is the reservoir: (http://www.xs-pc.com/reservoirs/ion-reservoir-white)

I recently purchased a xspc d5 tank reservoir and a alphacool vpp655 pwm pump and when I tested for leaks it leaked around the pump reservoir seal. I know that there is no problem with the res, there where just really bad instructions for how to install the pump.

So im building my first watercooling loop, just ordered all the parts. But I wanted to ask, im planning on putting my EK XRES 100 mounted to the middle fan spot on the front of my case. This means that there will be some tubing and a top mounted radiator above it. When I go to fill the loop, will the pressure from the liquid above it cause the reservoir to overfill? Or will it be ok? IE: Does my fill port need to be at the highest point in my loop? If so, how can I go about doing this since Im going to have a top mounted radiator

I want to know exactly how many tall reservoirs I can fit in the ethnoo luxe TG. I am thinking of water cooling 2 GPUs and the motherboard and CPU with sperate reservoirs. Is it possible to fit 2 reservoirs?

Looking to water a cpu and gpu atm but 2 gpu's in the future.

Someone may have already beat me to this question, but it's as the title says. Is it doable to make a custom reservoir? If so how? What tools and where is it suggested to buy sheets of acrylic from? Thanks in advanced :-).

Hi guys. My first post here so I thought I'd make it a good one. It's been a dream of mine to build a reservoir and integrate it into the window of a case for some time. I initially went down the path of having someone else (A very well known custom PC builder with a huge Youtube presence) do all of the design work and production for me, but after waiting nine months with no communication from them except to sometimes reply to an email giving me excuses as to why we'd blown out the initial six-week timeframe, I decided to do it myself. Here is where it all started. This was done up in paint hastily as a way to try and visualise what I was going for. Now, I have some design experience and could have done the next step myself, but as a high school teacher I rarely find the time and since we were in the middle of marking season, I decided to outsource the designing to a fantastic case modder in Italy, FlowMods. He was absolutely fantastic, and offered me a more than reasonable price. From top to bottom it measures at 570mm. Go measure that. YOU SEE THAT?! That's absolutely huge! So, now I had to source the case and acrylic block for machining. The block itself was actually quite cheap, but the shipping. Good lord. It was more than the damn block! And yet, it was still the cheapest option I had. From Sydney to Canberra it cost me $57 to ship it. The block itself was only $45. Here it is, and where it'll be sitting on the case window. My next job was to find a CNC shop with the equipment to machine acrylic this size. I eventually came across a shop called "Devilish Racing", who despite the name mostly built custom equipment for the Australian Defence Force. Naturally, Defence work took priority, so after about two and a half months I dropped by and picked up the freshly machined reservoir, threaded for M4 bolts to hold it to the window and G1/4 for the water cooling connections. He even cut the holes in the window for me, which was nice of him. So that was the easy part. Next came the polishing. This stage took about six hours in total. I needed a few things. 600 and 1200 grit sandpaper. Kerosene. Most people wet sand acrylic with water, but kerosene is more viscous than water, so I drowned my sandpaper in that instead. Learn from my mistakes and work in a well-ventilated area, because I started seeing my cat Naan Bread (Yes that's her name) talk to me about half an hour in. A drill and polishing attachments (Reasonably cheap). Brasso. WD-40. Plastx headlight polish. FW1 cleaning wax. As you can see, the reservoir was quite cloudy from the CNC process. So my first step was to hit it with my kerosene drenched 600 grit sandpaper. This took about an hour. As you can see, it looks much clearer already. Next step, 1200 grit sandpaper and even more kerosene. Another hour :'( The improvement was a bit harder to see this time, but it felt MUCH smoother. After this came the brasso and drill polishing kit. Thankfully this was nowhere near as physically taxing as the sanding and significantly faster. So it looks much clearer now. Brasso is fantastic stuff and was recommended to me by Ross at Devilish Racing (the CNC shop that produced the reservoir). The only problem was that it gunked up the threads. This was something I would have to deal with a little later on. So, this is where I used the Plastx. The reservoir was much clearer already, but still cloudy in some areas, especially those the polishing attachments couldn't reach. I neglected to take a photo of the reservoir immediately after hitting it with the Plastx, but you can see the impact it had in this photo where I'm cleaning out the threads with WD-40. So I found that even though I was doing this part by hand, I couldn't quite clear up the internal corners. I grabbed my Dremel kit and attached the small polishing tools to finish that job. Something I once again forgot to take a photo of. But here is the reservoir after, about to get another hit from some Plastx. As you can see, it's already very clean at this point. Following this, I gave it a final polish with some FW1 cleaning wax. Naturally, I only applied this to the outside. You don't want wax residue flowing through your loop. Here she is, looking crystal clean. Polishing is now complete, thank god. So with the polishing out of the way I now had to measure and cut the O-Ring cord to fit. Please ignore my pyjamas. You can usually use superglue for this bit, but I opted for an O-Ring connecting specific glue (Sureloc SL406 Cyanoacrylate). Here it is fused together. Looks good, hey? Nearly done now. The first step of sealing it up was to bolt down a select few of the screws so that everything was lined up. This is the part where I had to be most careful. If I overtightened a single bolt, the entire thing would be ruined. I set my electric screwdriver to its lowest torque setting so that at the slightest touch of resistance it would automatically stop. I lightly tightened each bolt three times after they had been fully inserted so ensure that there would be no leaks. I cannot stress enough how careful you have to be here. As soon as you feel resistance, move on and come back around to it. After tightening every single bolt in the first pass I found that the bolts I'd first done now needed additional tightening. Here it is all fastened and ready to begin filling for the leak test. SUCCESS! Here she is! Finished at last.

So i have a simple hard line loop where i have a 6700k and a 1070. I only have a 240mm rad so i decided i should get a 360mm just for the extra cooling. But if i use the 360mm radiator, then i need to switch my d5 tube reservoir out for a Bay reservoir due to spacing issues. If i use the dual bay reservoir, i would imagine that its quite hard to fill when i have hard line tubing. But i can't fit the tube reservoir anywhere else. Any suggestions? Btw i'm working with the corsair 600c and yes, it's inverted ATX. The Vcard is a MSI GTX 1070 Seahawk EK X. It is a beautiful card, but it is huge. if i had the space i would have put it on the back shroud but clearance is an issue.

Singularity Computers Core Mount comes in 2 pack (Available in variety different colours) Assembling is very straight forward. Removes the screw from the 4 handles. Allign them and just screw them together. Next screw the back bracket Now lets have a look at singularity computers reservoir and its accessories The reservoir box have measurements of the reservoir which is helpful in case u wan to refer to the dimensions Once open the box you are greeted with singularity computers stop fittings Reservoir is placed inside a protective plastic cover The beauty about this res after u dismantle the the black ring u can move the top facing any direction you want. Remove the top and there is a white o ring to go with the frosted top. Once u fix a position. U can just screw down the black ring to hold its position. Same goes to the bottom Now lets have a look at the D5 top (Frosted version) U will see the top is packaged in an anti static bag Come with a white oring and some screws that can be used to mount the top. (Bottom VIEW) Top VIew Can be used as a standalone unit or can be used as an upgrade kit with existing protium res to make it into a single unit. To use it with protium res just unscrew the top unit. There is an oring inside that u dont have to remove. Leave it as it is. To mount protium res to the d5 top. Remove the bottom unit and attached it with the top. Before that unscrew the flow channel tube and screw it to the d5 top Keeps the rest of these accessories save back into the box if u wanted to use it back in the future After combining the res and d5 top Next is the D5 cover. Is covered in the anti static bag once u opened the box Inside you have the D5 cover and bottom plate. The rubber which is provided is removed and placed on the plate which helps to cushion the d5. Once assembled with the res of the unit To use the reservoir core mount to mount the res to the radiator are as follows. FInd the small screws which can be find in the radiator box that you have bought. Use these screw and mount the core to the radiator. If u dont have these small screws. Just get them from ur local hardware shop. Next remove the 4 screws holding the core highlighted in yellow and place the res u prefer and screw it back. Fully assembled Last but not least for the protium d5 cover. Due to its modular design. If u have a manual pump and u want to change the speed. U can just remove the bottom cover without the need to bleed the entire loop and remove the cover. Thanks for having a look. A very modular design for this reservoir and the accessories. Enthusiast or even beginners will love this. Current offerings by ekwb, bitspower or alphacool have limitation and arent this flexible in design. Not to mention the quality is solid due to aluminium cnc parts. The frosted version looks incredible but they also offer other choice like polished aryclic and acetal.

Hello guys! Im planing to built a pc in the Ncase and watercool it. But I've one problem:The reservoir What should I buy ? (Maybe Pump/res combo??) How should I mount it?(without very "big" modifications? I hope you can help me so I can finally order the parts and built it.

Hey guys. Been awhile since I've been on here. I've almost completed acquiring all the parts I need to build a watercooled loop for my new pc. The last part I really need is a reservoir and way to mount it. Looking at the amount of empty space, a 200 mm to 250 mm tube would probably look best. The thing is, I'm wondering if there is a way to mount it hanging from the top of the chasis rather than the motherboard tray. However, most mounting brackets I see are depicted attached to the pump and then the reservoir. Considering the only important thing to loop order is the reservoir feeding the pump, I'm curious if there are mounts that attach to the non-pump side of the reservoir. The tower I'm using is a 780t corsair. It's old, I know, but it's what I got. That being said, I'm up for any other ideas as well. Thanks in advanced.

Im planning a watercooling build on a Corsair Crystal 460X but the reservoir I currently own (XSPC Photon 270) is too big and it only fits if I install it horizontally on the top of the case. That works but it covers too much of the motherboard so I dont want to use it. The easiest option I have is getting a new acrylic tube (10mm) to use on a D5 pump res combo I have (Bitspower) but that would mean having the res under the graphics card on the bottom of the case and I dont think that would look good. Im wondering if there is a res I could buy that is small and looks good that I could install maybe in the fan grill (120mm only) at the back of the case or maybe in front of the graphics card on the ventilation grill Any recommendation for good looking small reservoirs are welcome Hopefully under 80 dollars US

So I was thinking of building a water cooled PC without a radiator and using a round of 1 gallon reservoir it should work in theory due to natural loss of energy but has anyone tried this IRL

Hello, ok this is my second post with in a 30 day period but wgas, I don't. Ok so I have a reservoir that I want to fill through the top of the res lid. It doesn't have a fill tube and I would like to know if it is ok to do this with and have it not leak if I transport it on its side or just have it leak anyway. Plz help. I have the Ek xres 140 spc pwm classic if that helps at all.

hey, i just got my open loop parts, and im using enermax neochanger for budget reason, im just figured it out that top of my neochanger's alumunium, is it safe using it for 3 months?

Hello LTT Community, I've just noticed that my reservoir on my EKWB pump has started to turn a white color around the inside of the glass inside the reservoir. I’m worried that something may be wrong with it. I’ve moved my case to a different room recently, but I don’t think this would affect the reservoir. My CPU runs at 37 C on idle and runs around 65 - 70 C on full load, maybe the heat is causing it to lose its color? I don’t think this is the issue because when I look inside the reservoir, the liquid is still colored purple, or so I believe because the color inside the tubing is still purple. The loop I have cools my CPU which runs at 37C - 70C and my GPU which runs at 32C - 45C depending on the load. EKWB Components: Liquid – EK-Cryofuel Solid (Electric Purple) Tubing – EK-HD Acrylic Tube Radiator – EK-CoolStream SE 360 (Slim Triple) Pump – EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM (included. sl. Pump) CPU – EK-Supremacy EVO – Acetal+Nickel (Water Block) The liquid is still purple because it shows it in the tubing. I'm using clear tubing. I don't think it's foam because foam would be sitting at there very top and there doesn't seem to be any thing at the top. (Just around the sides)

Hey guys, I will need to upgrade my graphics card soon but all the flagship RTX cards (and presumably the upcoming gen too) are quite long at around 292-300mm and my current 1080 is 266. This means I need to free up some space horizontally in the case (either by going for a smaller reservoir tube and moving the reservoir up or down so it doesn't obstruct the gpu or separating the pump from the res and hiding it the lower compartment next to the psu or both). Any ideas how that separation would work cuz I can't really imagine it myself.. **n.b-> Yes I can fit the gpu in the lowest slot but since I'm going for air-cooled cards again I don't want to suffocate it being so close to the metal divider under it. Any further ideas how to solve this are appreciated! Cheers

I'm designing a build that will go inside a desk I built. This will require the reservoir to be mounted horizontally, but I also plan to use hardline tubing. This leads to the problem of how to fill and bleed the system. I would like a cylinder reservoir but all the ones I've seen are designed to be filled from the top, since I'm using hardline I won't be able to tilt reservoir, and since it's a desk tilting the whole system isn't a good solution either. Anyone have experience with horizontally mounted reservoirs? Or any ideas that could help?

Hey Guys, I am planning to custom watercool my system and I just wanted to ask you guys what you think about those two "things": Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora, Digital RGB, Plexi Black https://www.lian-li.com/o11d-distro-plate-g1/ I am going to use the DP in the Lian Li O11D XL.