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Will imperfections in a bend that i wouldnt really notice with the glass and lights on really do anything to the stability of the loop for normal petg tubing? (wrinkles/small bubbles) It will be my first time hard line bending so while i plan to give it a few trys here and there i dont wanna spend an obsceen amount of tubing per bend. If i can get away with slight errors in the second bend parts i might have to do i prob will.
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From the album: GENESIS of a Mod Munky
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Mnpctech Fractal Design "Define S" ASUS ROG Gaming PC
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From the album: Fractal Design Define S ASUS ROG Gaming PC
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From the album: GENESIS of a Mod Munky
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Hey. Currently in the market for hardline tube bending tools and the one im looking at is the thermaltake pacific hardtube bending kit (https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37171/thermaltake-pacific-hard-tube-bending-kit), which is a 12mm/16mm kit. Now the problem if it even is a problem, the tube i will be getting is 10mm/12mm. I understand that the rubber bend insert wont work but will the other parts work fine? eg, the bending mandrels, cutter..... (first time hardline loop) (australia)
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So, I have been using soft tubing for the last 3 years in my watercooling experience, and 2 months ago, I built myself a new system, and I went hard tubing. At first, I loved it, I loved doing it, and, even if the bends aren't perfect since I'm not very experience, think it looks amazing. But recently, I've been thinking of switching back... As much as I love it, It is becoming more and more impractical... I do a lot of hardware testing for my friends and I like to just play around to tiddy up my cables and such... My question is, would you guys do the switch back to soft tubing if you were in my situation? or simply, what type of tubing is your favorite?
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I'm looking at purchasing some Bitspower PETG 12mm OD tubing but noticed that it says "Only Compaible With Bitspower Fitting C47/C48/ML Series". I cant imagine this would be true. According to Performance-PCs website, it says the OD is 12mm and the ID is 10mm. Should this tubing work with the 12mm EKWB compression fittings that I have? Is there any reason that the tubing should be only compatible with their own fittings?
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So by chance I came across this thread: Now this has me ever so slightly worried as I currently (as I type this on said computer) run a loop using EK PETG tubing with EK Ekoolant Pastel White (diluted with 3 parts distilled water). Ive done some searching through EK's website and NOWHERE on either the Ekoolant page nor PETG page does it mention anything about incompatibilities but I often see EK Ekoolant's name thrown under the bus as being a glycol based fluid, in which case I want to drain my loop of this crap ASAP. Can someone please shed some light before my computer (potentially) fries itself? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-petg-tube-10-12mm-500mm-2pcs https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-pastel-white-concentrate-250ml Thanks!
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hi everyone,,,,i'm going to build my first desktop pc in a couple of weeks and i decided to custom watercool the cpu and gpu with ekwb gear... i chose pretty much everything but i'm not sure which petg tube size should i choose for my system,,,since i didn't have a chance to see watercooled pc before i don't know how different tube sizes show themselves in the case....and also there is no pc hardware store nearby that has hard tubes (i have only the online purchase option) so i can't go there and check different size tubes....so i wanted to ask you guys with the setup below which tube size you think is better? 12mm outer D. or 16mm outer D. ? i personally wanted to go for 16mm but i'm afraid that it will look too big in my case.... my case is corsair 750D and and i will be watercooling my cpu (6900k) and one gpu (1080 asus founders)... thanks...
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I'm water cooling my i7-7700k and GTX 1080 TI. This is my first time water cooling and I think I may need a bit of help with the layout I'm using, plus I have a couple of other questions.First off, I already attempted to bend and install my PETG 1/2 - 5/8 primochill tubing, and it was basically a disaster. Way too many mistakes and when I went to fill it realized that I had way too many leaks. Luckily, nothing leaked on any hardware. I bought double the tubing I initially had and I am going to try again, this time a little wiser.Anyway, my tube layout is below. Will this work? Is the pump/res to tube res okay? When I tried to fill my loop previously, the water was not pumping to the upper left tube sections (the cpu and gpu). Maybe I was filling it wrong? What would be the best way to fill this loop? I tried to fill the photon as much as possible, then I turned the case on its front and filled the bay res as much as I could. Then I jumped the psu with a paper clip and tried to run the pump, which it did. But, like I said the pump was having trouble going up. Here are my questions:1) Should I use the top fill port on the 270 photon as an inlet instead of having both the inlet and outlet on the bottom? How would I fill the loop if I have tubing going to the top?2) Do I need another D5 pump?3) Do you have any tips on how to accurately measure and bend PETG tubing?4) Should I make any other changes to my proposed layout?
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So as the title says, how does one measure the distance from point A (Lets call point A the CPU Enter hole) and point B (Lets call point B the GPU Exit hole) I thought about using a length of string similar to how you used to use it to measure distances on a map (Long ass piece, you'd lay the string across the path and mark where bends and such are to get the full length as if you were to walk it and not just measure 'as the crow flies') However is there a better way to determine how long the length should be (I'm going to be bending the PETG tubing, not using fittings.) EDIT Inc answer! Anyone looking at this for help? Look at this video and this kit, it'll help you to measure exact differences!
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Hey y'all I'm a bit new to the whole LTT forum community so I think this is where my question/discussion belongs. I'm in the process of making a new computer rig for myself, some of this might be a tad overkill but like, what is 2k17 without RGB windows and overkill right? So, I'll list my computer parts, custom water cooling parts and that stuff. Now my question will be: Would this fit together? Will I get bottlenecks? Parts: Fractal Design Define S Black Window NZXT HUE+ Advanced PC Lightning BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 PSU Cable Kit, Blue / Black Asus STRIX Z270F GAMING, ATX, S1151, 4xDDR4 Intel I7 7700K 4,2GHZ Asus GeForce GTX 1080 Ti, 11GB, Strix OC Corsair HX1200 New, 1200, 80+ PLATINUM, Modulair Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB(2x16GB) 3200MHZ x2 Samsung SSD 960 Pro 2TB, M.2 (Boot drive) Samsung SSD 850 Pro 500GB M.2 (Games and important stuff) Seagate Barracuda 4tb (Mass storage) Water cooling parts (All from EK waterblocks manufacturer): EK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual) EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple) EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM EK-RES X3 250 RGB (Because, 2k17=RGB) EK-Supremacy EVO-Nickel EK-FC1080 GTX Ti STRIX - Nickel EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Strix Backplate - Black EK-CryoFuel Navy Blue Concentrate 100 mL x2 EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin) (Testing purposes) EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM (10cm) (For the triple rad fans) EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM (10cm) (For the dual rad fans) EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit 10&12mm (Including hacksaw and the bend stuff) EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm 500mm (2pcs) x3 Filling Bottle (1L) EK-DuraClear 11,1/15,9mm 3M RETAIL (For filling and if I might want soft tubing somewhere hihi) EK-HDC Fitting 16mm - Black (6-pack) x2 EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black x4 So, if you have the answers on my questions or have something to add, reply below! Picture of my current idea for the water to flow: https://imgur.com/a/cbiIM ( Yes I am aware I have no fans yet, because I have NO idea of which to get tbh :/)
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I really want to do a custom loop but I can't really afford to go full tilt on it. I was thinking about getting an EK watercooling kit. I have some questions though before I decide: 1. Could I upgrade the kit to hardline tubing later on of course after buying new fittings? 2. How much should I spend? Should I buy one of the more expensive kits that have the better pump/reservoir? What specific kit do you recommend keeping in mind that price is an issue? 3. Are they really safe? Are the fitting decent? Do I have to worry about leaks more than if I went with individual parts or an AIO? Note: I'm not planning on ever cooling my video card. It has no temperature issues and hits instability due to voltage long before the temperatures get high so there's no real point. I am planning on adding another radiator though doing maybe 2 240 rads. I know I don't need more than a 240 for that, but that's just for the look of it. So, I'm torn. I really just want to water cool for the aesthetics, but if I have to spend more than 240 Canadian, it's not worth it right now.. not until I have a video card that would seriously benefit from it anyways. Help me decide. Should I just go for it and buy an EK kit or should I just settle on an AIO and hate myself.
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I have no idea what case I should buy for this. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/n3WcJV . I have the NZXT Elite in there only for now because I have no other ideas. I would like the case to be a more major brand like NZXT, Corsair, FD Cooler Master,. And a tempered glass side panel is a must. Please fit the color scheme of Blue and black or black and white.
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Hi guys, I was looking for something to spice up my next water cooled build and I saw some examples of people bending hardline tubing in spiral shapes (like in the photo below). My question is how much resistance would something like this add to the loop and is it really hard to achieve with hardline tubes? I could only find 1-2 builds where it has actually been implemented which means there must be some major problem in the way. Thanks in advance!
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Tried to bend 90 degree PETG. Silicone insert was inserted using soap and water, was not dried before bending.A part of it seems crumpled up. See pictures for more details.
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So today I naively thought it would be a good time to get round to tackling my new pc build and namely shaping, cutting and connecting my petg tubing. 12 hours later, and 1M of PETG wasted, Ive only, managed to make about 100mm of connections, namely connecting my resevoir<Pump<T-Junction Fitting<1st of 3 480mm rads & attach a bleed valve (took 1 hour alone to fit). To make matters worse, I had to make some alterations to my case to mount my resevoir which cost me one of my handheld Dremmel Rotary Tools (its fuxked now). Im not 100% the resevoir is secure either. Ive come to the firm conclusion that Hard tubing is a pain in the ass and i should have spent my £150 buying some soft tubing and new fittings and sold on the 20xsomething EK HDC fittings i have but too late now. Ive made some progress but I still have 7 connections to make and ive only managed 3 so far in a whole day. Is there anyone who can give me some advice bending the petg tubing as it constantly twists/warps whenever I attempt to make the rediculously tight bends i have to make, so i have to resort to 45' 90' angle fittings instead. This build is going to kill me I swear, and I will put money on something leaking somewhere at some point. Not to mention i dissassembled ny pc over 2 montha ago and i swear im having withdrawal symptons lol. Anyway heres some more pics coming so you guys can see my "progress" so far, but at this point it feels like 2 steps back>1 step forward.
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I recently purchased the Thermaltake Pacific RL240 D5 Hard Tube Water Cooling Kit, and am planning on bending the tube instead of having straight runs connected via 90 Degree fittings and so forth purely from a cost and point of failure standpoint, and I was wondering if there are alternate ways of bending tubing aside from a heat gun, as i dont have a heatgun and would avoid buying one if possible.for clarification the tubes in the kit are V-Tubler PETG Tube 16mm(5/8") OD and 12mm ID, and i have 2m of it. Cheers!
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Hey guys, I'm a few months at most off of going ahead and starting my watercooled build, and I have hit a snag. Basically, I want to know if you can cut Bitspower PETG with a PVC cutter. More specifically, the type of PVC/Soft Tube Cutter Jay (from JayzTwoCents) uses in Paul's (from Paul's Hardware) Hotbox 2.0 Build Log (he states that it's husky, and this is the only thing that matches). I'm planning to get both the Husky one and the Klein Tools one, however I just wanted to check if it would also work with my Bitspower 12mm PETG. I realize it works with the PETG in the video, but that is EK PETG and I know that in some cases PETG is more prone to crushing for some brands. If anyone knows it would be much appreciated, since I will probably switch to Primochill PETG (Which I know works since Jay uses it in Skunkworks). Thanks in advance. LINKS Husky PVC Cutter Klein Tools PVC Cutter Hotbox 2.0 Build Log Bitspower 12mm PETG
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Say I have a 1m PETG that needs to be 90 degrees bent to 87.5cm. How do I bend the tubing so that the result measures exactly to 87.5cm? Where should I start bending and how big of an arc should I create? I can't wrap my head around these...... -
Hello, I want to use mayhems xt-1 nuke uv clear sky blue coolant in my system. I was hoping to use PETG but I am getting some conflicting information. Mayhems support says it is compatible but all my research says it is not. Was hoping someone here with experience could clear up the confusion for me! Thanks!
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I just ordered a lot of PLA+ and im wondering if I should of gone with PETG. Thoughts? Thanks in Advance
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Just when you think your PC is done, Christmas rolls around and it just says, "No, you have ONE more thing left to do." Indeed I do. This is not sponsored or anything. Images will be done from my phone so I wish I could get much better footage. This will be done in a multi-part as well. A very simplistic name came to mind after seeing that the Define R6 I had chosen, was Black and White and the fluid I am using is white. Fittings are all black along with the rads. However, fans coming in are black framed, white blades. I will be using my previous hardware as well. No need to upgrade what I have since there is really nothing out currently that is worth it to upgrade to and the list of everything is down below. Enjoy this journey with me as I experience my first time with hard line tubing! CPU: Intel Core i7 8700K Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus Gaming 7 GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 ICX RAM: Cruical Ballistix White 16GB 2400Mhz (may change) SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB HDD: Seagate Firecuda 2TB PSU: Corsair CX650M (will be changing) Case: Fractal Design Define R6 Fans: Phanteks PH-F120MP White, EKWB Vardar EVO PWM, Fractal Design case fan (rear exhaust) Radiators: EKWB Coolstream SE 240 CPU Block: EKWB EK-Supremacy EVO GPU Block: EKWB EK-FC1080 GTX Ti FTW3 Pump/Res: EKWB EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM Fittings: Assortment of Bitspower Matte Black fittings Tubing: Bitspower 12mm PETG Tubing Fluid: Primochill VUE Sky White SX
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I'm just starting out experimenting doing practice bends and I find myself having to do tiny adjustments to get it perfect for more complicated runs. Is this okay? At what point is it not okay? My guess is that it's okay to slightly reheat it while it's still fresh, but you shouldn't let it cool down and then do it again. What's the right way to go here? -
Hello, I'm thinking of switching to hardline tube from soft tubing for my loop. I was wondering later in the future if I can reuse the petg tubing that will be in the loop when the time comes for maintenance. Otherwise do I need to replace all of them with new petg tubing?
