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I have enjoyed my Deathadder 2013 since about 2015. Its lasted me a good long while, and it feels really good still after over half a decade later. However, i believe the mouse switches to have become less responsive and wanted to replace them. I don't know where i could go to get replacement/ upgraded switches, or quite how to do it. but that's not why I'm here. What im wondering is if it is possible to do more major modifications such as a custom firmware update to allow it to communicate with razer synapse 3, replacing the green LED on the back with a Chroma LED, and my biggest question is if it would be possible, or even helpful, to upgrade the cable to USB 3 instead of the current USB 2. who knows, i might go farther and replace everything with a better mouse, but keep the shell because i love the shape/weight/ low number of buttons, (would prefer up to 5 but no more probably, wait, i could mod those in maybe) sorry for the rant, id just like to be pointed at the right resources as i looked and couldnt find them. i assume its not under warranty anymore... its been 6 years.
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Hi! I know that Log4j has mostly blown over (I think), and that it's been patched. However, I just had a few questions about some of the more untouched parts about it, though... 1) Were mods and shaders for minecraft affected by Log4j? If so, is it safe to download them now? 2) Was thinking about getting a server for me and my friends. I was thinking about Aternos, as it's free and not as much coding - however, I believe Aternos servers are not hosted on my computer nor are they hosted on my network (I think - correct me if I'm wrong, please), so would using Aternos instead of hosting one on my PC provide an extra layer of protection if an attack like log4j were to happen again? (On a side note, if anyone has messed with Aternos, could somebody please share their experiences? Was wondering if it's a safe alternative to paid servers, as I heard they MAY have had a security breach in the past - don't quote me on that, though) (On another side note, let me know if this post belongs in Video Games, instead, as this post could fit both forums) Thanks to anyone who helps!
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I have built a computer for myself out of used parts and am struggling with flashing a new BIOS. For this computer build, I used an x5450 processor - an Xeon processor from the LGA771 socket - inside a P5Q Pro motherboard (LGA775). I was able to do this using the "LGA775 to 771" mod (tutorials all over YouTube) and am now running a 4 core 3.00Ghz processor for under $100. Quite happy that I have gotten everything to work, but I'm still running on the old BIOS. This BIOS is not able to properly utilize all four cores of my processor as it was coded for the dual core processors. I've found the correct BIOS for my motherboard with this mod. The BIOS can be found at this link: https://mega.nz/#!XxRzzSZC!cQm4L14lsofjdo28C_CNvnwckmzhX66XencOrb0GkyU I have downloaded the BIOS but that's as far as I've been able to go. The "flash bios" section in my bios is confusing and I can't seem to figure out how the computer wants me to boot the new file. IDK if that makes any sense, but I have never flashed a bios before. I'm really not sure how to approach it. If anyone could offer some help, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks -Carter
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Buy typewriter on Amazon: http://geni.us/sE1K If MX Blues aren't for you, the DIY route might be true...
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Against the better judgement of fellow forum members, I decided to mod my H100i GTX to have a 280mm radiator. Please note that I had already voided my warranty long before doing this project. For the radiator I decided to go with Black Ice's Nemesis L-Series 280mm Stealth radiator: http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-l-series-280-stealth-radiator.html two of Bitspower's 3/8 ID 5/8 OD matte back fittings: http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/bitspower-g1-4-black-matte-compression-fitting-cc3-ultimate-for-id-3-8-od-5-8.html and two140mm EKWB Vardar F2 fans to finish it off. I started by removing the tubes from the old radiator, and quite unsurprisingly it was aluminum. Next I took the pump/waterblock apart so I could remove the tubes and flush them and the waterblock seperately. @For Science! warned me that bleeding this thing would be a pain in the ass. They were correct. I had to fill the radiator, then mount the tubes to it and fill those on the radiator, and then fill the waterblock and jankily push it back onto the filled tubes without loosing too much water from the components while pushing them together. I finally got all the bubbles out, did a super sketch mod to my S340 so I could mount the radiator before the fans and BAM it's done! But I have to post the picture in the next post because my camera takes ~6.2MB imgaes
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TL;DR I just need the size for the VRMs on my ASUS PRIME Z270-A Title; I'm looking to go Further in my overclocking I currently have an AIO NZXT Kraken X42 which gets me to about 4.6GHz but I'm gonna blow some cash on a full out hard-line loop for my i7 7700k and 1080Ti FE with a 480mm rad. I've seen a lot of people put full water blocks covering the CPU, VRMs and even RAM modules sometimes but I'm just looking for small cheap heatsinks to stick to my VRMs to make sure they stay cool.
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Hey guys! I recently got some prebuilt servers from a friend and I wanted to try and find a way to upgrade them to do some gaming and light content creation. I have absolutely no experience dealing with servers and know nothing about their compatibility with windows 10 and certain graphics cards. The server unit I have is the Dell Poweredge R710. Mine specifically has 8 gigabytes of ram and 2 open PCIE 3.0x16 slots. Is it even possible to create a system like this from a server? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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I modified my very first pair of headphones tonight. Based on this 2014 article (scroll down to the HD555 to HD595 blurb). Yep, there are other brand-specific mods suggested , I popped open a pair and.... removed the rubber foam tape from the inner black metal screens!? Sigh, the power of suggestion AND confirmation bias. Is the sound superior? I dunno.
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Problem: the plastic construction of my headphones is awful. The white-coloured headband plastic developed cracks after about a month of use (~2h/day, inside my home, while gaming/relaxing on the sofa). So what: the flexing & cracking caused my original pair's wiring to short out. I returned it to PSB & they shipped me a replacement. The PSB 4MU-2 headset started cracking again in the same place. Now what: my first repair incolved gorilla tape (I wrapped over the cracked headband). The hard, black plastic tape made it uncomfortable on my shaved skull! I wrapped it with scraps of clean underwear (ginches) to make it soft against my skin. An improved fix: my awesome knitting spouse whipped up a multicoloured tube to fit over the hard plastic. SUCCESS. My musings: I liked to bitch & moan about the crappy build quality of this brand (used the wirecutter.com review for best $200-300 over-hear headphones [2017 article] and got a lemon). I did the research, bought from an authorized dealer, paid $300-350 CDN, worked with the company's customer service, and still landed up with a poorly built headphone. They sound great. My wife offered a fix, and I can save my money for a Sony MDR-7560 (or something like that). Show & tell: Image 1... gorilla fix & DSS2. Image 2... knitted fix. Image 3... comfy about head (and I stopped bitching about uncomfortable cans).
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Hello. I do not know whether this is possible or not, but I have a GTX 1080 Sea Hawk X in my system with a aftermarket Corsair ML120 fan on the radiator. My question then is; does anyone know if it is possible to connect the radiator fan to the GPU somehow? The reason behind this is that right now the radiator fan is connected to the PWM fan hub on the motherboard, which means I can only control the fan with the CPU temperature. I just need to make a very aggressive fan curve, since not every game I play is that CPU intensive, resulting in a good amount of noise, when I do something that makes the CPU hotter. If I go with a less aggressive curve, the GPU becomes 75-85 degrees, which is too hot for me. I have been searching a little around for this, but not really finding anything I can use, other than GamersNexus tearing it apart to show what is inside. In that video I see the fan on the card itself, and the power for the pump is connected with a splitter to the only connector on the card. Does anyone know if this is possible? Can I get splitter more to connect to the card, and then a converter so I can connect the fan? Any help is appreciated.
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I'm wanting to know if there will be a negative impact on removing the heatsink or cooling fins from my RAM sticks. From what it seems it is just a sticky pad or tape holding them on, doesn't seem like much airflow gets to them anyways. Or the tape wouldn't do that good of a job of being a heatsink. I'm trying to remove 3mm of space 5mm to be comfortable so I can put a new CPU cooler in and the RAM is just barely clearing right now, I would buy a new case for it, but I just bought this case less than a month ago(and I like it). Anyone out there that has done this already?
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Its no denying Vega 56 is a very hot card both in performance and in temperature.After all it will easily do 300W and even 400W with mods.I was one of the few morons who bought this card brand new at MSRP on release day with the infamous blower fan that AMD likes to use.As expected, the card had horrendous cooling, reaching easily 95 degrees and throttling, and its VRM doing 110 at times with core hot spots up in 120s.This kind of cooling is unacceptable, so 4 months ago I decided that I should get a Morpheus II because I had enough with the fan spinning at deafening 7000RPM which yes for those of you its LOUDER than the R9 290 reference card.When I got the Morpheus II, I had good core temps but I noticed one major problem, the VRM was not getting cooled properly, infuriated by the poor design choice from the manufacturer of this heatsink to exclude PROPER VRM cooling, (this may offend some) I cut apart the reference shroud because I hated it with passion, seeing how its aluminium I did it all with a hand saw and some files.As one would expect, I not only got superior VRM temps of 70 to 90 degrees vastly better than the 135 it would do with the ****ty heatsinks provided in the package.According to 3DMark, a regular stock Vega 56 should do 20 528 FireStrike score.Mine however does 23 124 its of course no ground breaker but what is interesting are the temperatures allowing me to do 1705MHz stable on the core and 1100MHz on the memory with acceptable temperatures that will reach 80 in high demanding tasks, however its noted that in 3DMarks own tests the RTX 2070 in FireStrike does 22 593 which is very good obviously either GPU's will differ and because Vega are off a different design school the 2070 will perform better in most games.With a bit time on hand and some really basic cavement tool skills, its possible for anyone to do this, manual tools is all needed, no machine tools yes I am a bit sceptical wielding power tools with no protection, nothing to fasten what I am cutting properly better to do it manually in this case its also more economical.Because early Vega 56 do not have have the mold on the chip I was forced to use a thermal pad in this case the Carbonaut, I heard better stuff with the IC diamond pad but Carbonaut should perform superior with good mounting pressure.
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I have recently watched "how to make windows look like MacOS" (https://youtu.be/VCNGyRawkss) and I followed the steps. Then, when I finally comleted all the steps it looked nice, but I wanted my windows back, so I deleted and uninstalled all programs that were making all the things look like MacOS. But then, after I finally rebooted and.... the taskbar disappeared. So, can please ANYBODY tell me which program it is and HOW TO DISABLE it. IMG_3104.MOV
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Hi guys and girls at LMG! Would love some ideas for water cooling my home server. I have an old HP Proliant microserver model N54L. I know it's old but it does the job for my home media server, hosting my website for projects and backups from laptop and phones. I'd love to be able to water-cool it as it's getts hot as you can imagine. The only problem I have is finding a thin water block with right angle hose attachment. There's not a lot of space to play with underneath the drive bays. I have mounted the rear exhaust fan on the outside which frees up space for tubing. I'm also thinking of using an external power supply which would also allow the existing channel for piping and lessen the heat.
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I've had to make repairs to my phone a couple times, screen cracked once from a drop on tile. Then during that repair (screen for~$80, think I got lucky), the fingerprint sensor ribbon connector on the motherboard of the phone broke, after about six months I bought a parts only phone with a cracked screen for ~$110 and transferred good motherboard to frame with good screen, boom fully functional Pixel 3 XL. As a cautionary message, the ribbon cable clamps, that the fingerprint sensor uses, are very fragile unlike the lego style connectors that every other connection in the phone uses. My total repair cost would have less than $100 if not for that fragile connector. As to the back glass mod, I had almost a whole phone's worth of spare parts so I started scratching the paint away and around the NFC coil, as that is adhered to the glass and cleaned the adhesive off the parts that are exposed, plenty of double sided adhesive tape later its all together and clear like Tom Cruise. Both phones work too, so now I'm just looking for ideas for more mods, any ideas?
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So I have a IBM XT 5160 case and a XT power supply and I've been wanting to modify it to house a modern gaming computer in it. I was wondering if anyone has some tips or done something similar in the past. I know it's going to need to some fabricating and drilling to mount everything and probably some custom panels and brackets to make the full drive bays half bays. I was planning on replacing the innards of the XT power supply with a modern one to keep the old switch and not have to worry about modifying that part of the case, but it also makes me worried about the space.
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When building a new PC with a friend we ran into a bit of a snag with his RAM heatspreaders, mid-tower case, and AiO liquid cooler... The G.Skill Ripjaw V5 RAM was literally 3mm too tall in an area to allow the Corsair H100i V2 Liquid Cooler to fit in his Corsair Spec-Alpha Case. We had two options: - Install the AiO cooler in the front of his case. This would require removing the SSD / 2.5" HDD mounting tray. He didn't want to do this though. - Modify the plastic housing of the fans on the AiO liquid cooler. This would have been easier, but I didn't want to unbalance the fan blades. - Remove the bit of aluminum that was blocking the installation of the AiO liquid cooler. Cutting aluminum without proper tools is fun! First I separated the two heatspreader halves using a flathead screwdriver. This was the easiest part of the ordeal. Then I took a pair of needle-nose pliers to the now-separated halves. I had to bend them 90 degrees out so we could cut them. Next, I used another pair of pliers with a cutter close to the pivot point and squeezed as hard as I could. The aluminum broke after much effort. Finally, I bent the short leftover heatspreader flaps back inward so the sharp edges were facing inward. Safety first! As you can see in the picture, the H100i V2 now fits just fine, and you can't even tell it's modded... sort of... ahem, look over there! Hindsight tells me we should have found another solution, or at least painted the now-exposed aluminum, but it's not my RAM warranty that is void Should I tweet Corsair and G.Skill about these amazing modifications, in hopes that someone will re-design the case in a future revision? I tweeted Corsair about my modification, so hopefully Corsair will re-tool a future revision of this case to fit top-mounted 240mm radiators. I'll also tag @Corsair Joseph for good measure, in case he can alert Corsair HQ about this faster. EDIT/UPDATE: It appears as though my friend and I clearly gave no poops about the Spec-Alpha Case specifications, as I now see the error in our ways... Cooling Layout: Front: 2 x 120mm (2 x 120mm LED included) Top: 2 x 120mm Rear: 1 x 120mm (included) Radiator Compatibility: 240mm: Front only 120mm: Front, or Rear Whoops... Oh well, clearly we are better engineers than Corsair since we managed to fit a top-mounted 240mm radiator.
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Hey everybody, quick question, my tryna get a white and red theme going throughout my pc and we all know that no build looks premium without some sexy sleeved cables/cable extensions. So i want a white and red Pcie and 24 pin connector but all I can find under my price range is either all red or all white. I've been recommended cable mod's custom sleeved configuration but that is out of my price range. I was wondering what if I got an all red or all white cable extension and paint the parts I want colored myself? This isn't the greatest idea in the world but it's worth a shot, let me know what you think, and if you have any suggestions on what i should paint the sleeved cables with. I will obviously be careful not to get any inside the connectors as it can blocked the wires and stop the current or whatever. thanks for your time
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Hello together, i bought the ASUS ROG Swift PG278Q and want to use the Crooshair Feature. Is there any way to Change the Crosshair so it becomes smaller like the one frome CS:GO? I know it cant be done by the onscreen menu but is there any way to modify the Monitor? PS: sorry for my bad english Thanks
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Amazon: http://geni.us/XN5 NCIX: http://bit.ly/1VS4u7f Linus put together a new paintbooth! Some sweet DIY painting videos coming soon, maybe!?
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Hey Everyone, I have an ASUS 2-in-1 laptop, model R554L. The built-in webcam is one that I absolutely hate. The picture comes out small, color isn't too great, and just kind of sucks, so I've been using a USB one, carrying it around whenever I need to use the webcam. It has its benefits, but obviously is less than convenient. Is there any way to place the existing internal webcam with a better one? I have no issue with taking it apart to get to it, I've had to do it on a past laptop to fiddle with that webcam too. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Alex
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Hi! I've upgraded to a new PC recently and I don't know what to do with my old one. It's not terrible. i5-650 3.2GHz w/ stock cooler H57 MoBo mATX from Packard Bell Socket 1156 3×2GB DDR2 RAM @ stock DVD RW drive ~300w PSU WD Caviar Green 1TB Windows 8.1 Packard Bell iXtreme M5800 case nVidia GeForce GT 330 OEM 1GB What do you people think?
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best unplanned modifications while building a computer
BudgetForNow posted a topic in Cases and Mods
So i was wondering if anyone else was building a computer and had to make an unplanned modification to get it to fit together? After two years of having my computer i finally decide that its time for my first upgrade, the cpu cooler. i bought a h100i to cool the a10 processor. After i opened the box i realized that my case didn't support a 240mm rad. Being the fix it yourself no matter what the cost kind of person that i am i decided the best thing to do would be to drill out the case and make my own mounting and vent holes. After i drill out the four corners for the rad mount I find out that i didn't have the rite size bit for the vent holes, I decided that i would just cut vents in the case with the reciprocating saw. Turns out that you cant make a perfectly straight cut with the saw blade that i was using, so i now have a messy looking but very functional vent in the top of my computer.- 11 replies
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NCIX: http://bit.ly/1JuKW5J Amazon: http://geni.us/80w Luke HATES glossy plastic on his PC parts. He hates it so much, in fact, that he decided he would try to get rid of it for good...
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