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Hi there, my dad has these old Hitachi speakers that he bought second hand in about 1985. They don’t work anymore and I was wondering if anyone knew anything about them to help me either fix them or find someone who knows how to fix them (based in the UK). Thank you.
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From the album: My Build, the beginnings
This is an overall view of the internals before I installed the new RAM. The PSU is the NZXT Hale82 750w PSU. I will be upgrading to the 1200w NZXT Hale92 white PSU. Because it is awesome. The drives are a 120GB SanDisk SSD, 120GB Kingston HyperX SSD, and a 1TB Hitachi HDD. Fans are default NZXT fans. Motherboard is the ASRock Extreme4 Z77 Motherboard. CPU is the Intel i5 3570k.© TPaliciusV
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From the album: My Build, the beginnings
This is my storage setup. Very ghetto. Eventually, I will be seating it (all drives) with 3M double sided sticky tape somewhere. Preferably to the floor of the case. Still not sure. Maybe on the Motherboard Tray.© TPaliciusV
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Alright guys, so one of them is lying but which one? left is win10 default program, right one is Defraggler
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My PS3 recently broke due to a power supply failure so I thought instead of throwing it to the tip, I would salvage parts from it I could use, so I got a 240GB Hitachi HDD from it, however connecting it to my PC for the first time it just takes forever after it says it is "searching preconfigured driver folders" This has been running for a good 2 1/2 - 3 hours now and if you, the noblemen of the LTT forums can help me out here, I would be very grateful THE FIX It's been not even 2 days from posting yet it is fixed! It required me to allocate partitioning to the drive, and that was done by going to Disk Management, right clicked the unallocated space shown by the drive and clicking New Partition (Or New Simple Volume for me, as I was on Win7) went through the wizard and tah-dah! (Thanks to jthmz for giving me a push in the right direction and also thanks to M.Yurizaki for helping, your efforts weren't in vain ) If you have a similar problem, I recommend you use this guide on TomsHardware; http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/265764-32-guide-installed-disk-system?_ga=1.140199091.1467591738.1479573783 -
source: https://www.cnet.com/news/optical-disc-drive-settlement-claim-sony-optiarc-nec-hitachi-lg-panasonic/ via: http://www.kitguru.net/channel/generaltech/matthew-wilson/sony-lg-and-more-accused-of-inflating-pc-dvd-drive-costs-will-compensate-pc-buyers/ hold U'r horsies for you to be eligible, you need to have bought PC with a DVD drive or a stand-alone DVD drive (internal or external) from one of these manufacturers: LG-Hitachi Panasonic (only stand-alone units, Panasonic PCs are not included) SONY NEC between April 1 2003 and December 31; also you need to be resident of one of the following states: Arizona California District of Columbia Florida Hawaii Kansas Maine Massachusetts Michigan Minnesota Missouri Montana Nebraska Nevada New Hampshire New Mexico New York North Carolina Oregon Tennessee Utah Vermont West Virginia Wisconsin so ... what happened? there is no limit on how many you can claim and also there is no need for proof of purchase, although ... submit your claim here: https://www.opticaldiskdriveantitrust.com/#two --- additional reading: DOJ - Hitachi-LG Data Storage Inc. executive agrees to plead guilty for participating in bid-rigging conspiracies involving optical disk drives -
This is a new drive and it is making weird rumbling sounds while under load. This sound does not happen too often when gaming on it, but it is constant during extraction of a file. Here is the sound: https://goo.gl/photos/mfViZyGHmLEKREv77
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Just a quick question, I have a Hitachi 1TB HDD (55.7GB used) that I'd like to test with Seatools for Windows. I can't leave my PC on all night as the fans are way too loud so I need to know, how long would the full long test approximately take?
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Ordered THIS drive from Newegg. Received it yesterday and mounted it to my case, hooked it up with a SATA cable to motherboard, and a SATA power cable from my power supply. Noticed the drive wasn't showing up in the BIOS, however it was appearing in Windows Disk Management as (Disk 1), my main dive (Disk 0) is a 250GB Samsung 750 EVO SDD. Also it was showing as Unknown Disk with 0GB of space in Windows Device Manager. I then opened Disk Management, and as soon as it opened it automatically prompted me to initialize the drive as GPT, I attempted to do this and got the error message "The specified disk is not convertible because the size is less than the minimum size required for GPT disks." I then attempted to initialize it in MBR mode, then received this error message "The system cannot find the file specified." So far I have tried using different brand new sata cables, tried different motherboard sata ports, and tried uninstalling/reinstalling the drive and drivers. None of this has seemed to work. I am wondering if it is just a bad drive. Please help me out if you can. Thanks for reading! Here are the rest of the specs on my system (Which I just built last week) MSI Z170A SLI Motherboard Core i3 6100 MSI ARMOR GTX 1060 6GB 16GB GSkill Ripjaws V 250GB SSD (Samsung 750 EVO) 750W EVGA Supenova B1 Semi-Modular PSU -
Hi! I recently upgraded my HDD to a 2TB Hitachi drive. The problem is that it's constantly making noise. I've eliminated a couple of things and my conclusion is that it's the noise of excessive head parking. Sadly I couldn't find a working solution, that's why I'm here. There's also this issue that my OS doesn't recognize the HDD properly. In the BIOS it is being recognized. Speccy and other analyzing tools mark the HDD as Microsoft Storage Space Device and they don't assign a drive to it. Like (C:) or (D:), instead it calls it 'Disk 1'. Speccy marks the HDD as a SSD, instead of SATA. Is this a problem? Or should I just let it be? I can and I'm using the drive like usual. Can anyone help me out? Thanks! Specs: OS: Windows 10 CPU: i5 6500 RAM: 16GB DDR4, 2133MHz Motherboard: Gigabyte GA Z-170 Gaming K3 HDD: Hitachi Ultrastar 7K2, 2TB
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Kinda dumb question but still im interested in which hard drive is more robust 2.5 inch or 3.5 inch if is used in desktop pc for example
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Hello. Recently I've been looking for a 2-3 Tb mechanical drive to store games (Can't afford a 500 gig SSD right now) and I've seen so much contradictory info. First Hitachis are fantastic, then the P300 from Toshiba, WD blacks, Seagate is a big confusion. So my question is, what are the fastest HDDs in that capacity that won't die on me in 3 months? If you know of more than one I'd be happy to have actual options in different prices rather than 20 tabs open while I cry in a fetal position...Thanks!!
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I bought a refurbished Hitachi HDD about 2 years ago now. About 6 months ago when accessing it, it will make a horrible clicking noise, but only when accessing certain files. I can use Macrium Reflect to make a image backup of the Hitachi drive but no sound is made, totally silent. On the other hand If I try to import skyrim mods that are in .zip format it will click like mad. The clicking happens when either writing or reading from the drive but as stated before only with certain files. Hope Someone Can Help! Thanks! -
First off, here's my specs: CPU: Ryzen 7 2700X GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 1660 Super PSU: Corsair CX 550W Mobo: MSI X470 Gaming Plus Memory: 2x8GB Team Group 3200 DDR4 HDD: 2TB Hitachi (HUA7222020ALA331) Here is my BIOS version: A.90 My SSD that I'm trying to install: 500GB WD Blue SN550 NVMe FYI my PC is already up and running fine with my HDD (already played hundreds of hours on steam... where did my time go). I just want to add an SSD. My PC works fine with all these components. Just, you know, slow because of that $30 2TB HDD. So, I wanted to upgrade and bought a 500GB WD Blue SN550 NVMe SSD... but my monitor will not turn on when I install my SSD (although, my PC turns on fine, fans running with RGB and all). I can't even get into my bios. Just a black screen, taunting me. When I remove the SSD, my computer works as normal (just painfully slow... like normal). I thought that maybe the M.2 slot was interfering with my SATA port that connects my SSD (I installed on the second M.2 slot, but this doesn't interfere with the 3rd SATA port). So then I thought it might be trying to boot up my SSD first, instead of my HDD with all my info on it. So, without my SSD, I went into BIOS and made my HDD a priority. I still have the same problem. Please help smart people!
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So, I'm building a new system and want to know if I should pick up a WD or Hitachi 1TB hard drive. The Hitachi costs ~$2 more than the WD, and I want to hear the community's opinion. Which drive should I get? Hitachi: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hitachi-1TB-3-5-SATA-3-0-Gbps-7200-RPM-Hard-Drives-0F12627-Tested/162876155355?epid=1165056823&hash=item25ec2ce5db:g:0wIAAOSwSrNaTkYN WD: https://www.ebay.com/itm/WD10EADS-11P8B1-Western-Digital-Green-1TB-SATA-3-5-HDD-32MB-WD10EADS/232665772563?epid=72373243&hash=item362bf5f213:g:ztcAAOSwjytahKXQ Preferably 1-2TB, 7200RPM drives is what I want for this system, but for cheap.
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I'm looking for a model of 6TB Drives for my new nas (RAID 1) Help me choose a model from below 1.HGST Deskstar NAS H3IKNAS600012872SWW 7200RPM 128MB cache 3 year warranty 2.Seagate Ironwolf ST6000VN0033 7200RPM 128MB cache 3 year warranty 3.WD Red WD60EFRX 5400RPM 64MB cache 3 year warranty PLZ Vote here at the link below: http://www.strawpoll.me/14805015
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so i have Hitachi PW2 42PD7A10A tv and i wanted to connet it to pc via hdmi, but my tv shows invalid scan frequency when i try to do it, tyed many settings still same. only time it showed screen was when i restaarted pc whit hdmi cabel in tv but only then it showed my mb logo and thats it black screen but no invalid scan frequency text. any solution?
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Hello LTT Forums, Recently i have moved a 1 tb 3.5 in hdd from an external enclosure to inside of my computer. It is a hdd that is used in my server and it has a installation of windows on it. It is detected in the bios as bootable and everything but it is not detected from the windows installation on my ssd. Any ideas on how to fix this? -
I have looked all over the place for an adapter for my hp compaq nc6000 hard drive but I can find anything that looks similar PLEASE HELP ME!!! I have 2 pictures for you guys to look at the key board is a A-JAZZ The Dark Knight keyboard and mouse set
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Having real trouble deciding on a new hard drive, the more I research the more doubts I have. Trying to decide between a HGST Deskstar and the Toshiba X300 4 TB drive. This will be a secondary drive (OS is on SSD), used for games and media/data storage. Toshiba X300 Performance 3.5 Pro 4TB 7200RPM 128MB, warranty: 2yr base / 5yr extended (at +16% price) Hitachi HGST 4TB H3IK40003272SE (0S03356) 7200RPM 64MB, warranty: 3yr base / 5yr extended (at +12% price) HGST Internal Drive Kit 4TB 3,5"" 7200rpm (0S03665) 7200RPM 64MB, warranty: 3yr base / 5yr extended (at +12% price) WD Black 4TB - thinking about that one, too (have access to a sale where it would be actually less expensive than the above ones, plus 5 yr warranty by the manufacturer rather than the seller), but am kind of afraid it might be too noisy (many comments make it out to be extremely loud(?)), but frankly don't know how it even compares to the other ones in that regard (I have a 1TB Samsung HD103SJ, also 7200RPM, and it is inaudible to me). Not sure if 64MB cache vs 128MB cache makes any real world difference. In general the HGSTs are praised for reliability, but I'm not sure how these particular models fare. The Toshiba (which most probably is a Hitachi design all the same) comes highly recommended to me, and looks like their top consumer model. HGST are stated as NAS drives, but I assume that makes no difference here. The second HGST has a higher product number, other than that I have no idea how the two differ. Not quite sure if extended warranty makes much sense, can't find info whether the manufacturers allow RMA based on bad sectors or not. Price: of those three the Toshiba is the least expensive, the second HGST (0S03665) the most. Price difference between those is +/-15-20% without extended warranty (2 vs 3yrs) and +/-12% at 5 yrs both), the other HGST (0S03356) sits somewhere in between. There are lots of other HGST models, but those two are in my price range. I already had a WD Blue 4TB, but sent it back because of the head parking feature (8 sec, made hundreds of load cycles in the first 2 days alone), didn't want to mess with wdidle3. As far as I know those are now identical to WD Greens. The sound level was nice though (except for that clicking of the head parking). Any suggestions highly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hello. I am in need of buying a new HDD drive for storage, and this very moment there is a sale on the seagate barracuda 2tb on 78 euros in my area. The wd green 2tb costs about 90 euros, and the toshiba-hitachi around 84 euros. What choice would be the wisest, since i have heard things about a higher failrate on the seagate side than the wd? I currently have: 120gb samsung 850 evo 1tb wd caviar blue 3.5 inch 7200rpm 64mb cache 1tb wd caviar blue 2.5 inch 5400rpm 8mb cache (ripped out of my laptop to add a kingston savage ssd 250gb) 500gb wd caviar blue 3.5 inch 7200rpm 64mb cache
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Hello,i have two HDD one is Hitachi and the other is Seagate.Both are 500GB Sata III. The main problem is i get wierd sounds like opening a folder randlomly when i play games or just searching something on mozila or chroome.Someguy told me that my hdd is dying but i thought that this is some bug from the Win 7. -Today (After 1-2weeks) i have noticed that the the space on my Hitachi HDD is getting too low i mean one day is 88GB and after some time is 87.6GB and its getting lower and lower every hour ? (I am not downloading anything...) -Every HDD is vibrating and that its okay but today one of my HDD just vibrated so loud for 3-4 seconds...i though that the hdd will get out from my case.That happend 3-4 times,just so strong vibration. -Opened HDTune pro (also Speccy) and there is no problem with the 2 HDDs + Last month i have scaned the both of the HDD and there were not bad sectors or erors just the Seagate was quite faster than the Hitachi. Just please dont tell me that the HDD is dying Should i format the HDD or remove it from the pc and put it on another slot or change the sata port on the mb .... ?
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I'm looking for a replacement 2.5 in HDD and I'm torn between this WD drive and this Hitachi drive. I know the WD drive is only 750gbs, but size doesn't really matter in this case, I just need it to be faster and bigger than the old, slow, 250gb Samsung drive in my device now. So my question is basically which one do you think will be faster? I know that WD's Black series is known for having some of the best performing drives, and I've used WD for years and have never had an issue. But this hitachi drive, on the other hand, looks too good to pass up. Its obviously 250gb bigger and has double the cache (correct me if I'm wrong, but that increased read speeds, right?). According to passmark's HDD benchmarks the hitachi drive also scores ~50 points higher than the WD drive, but I don't know how passmark formulates the scores. Which one would you choose? Thanks for any help or suggestions!
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Hello, So I just built my gaming rig which is over $2500 and I have a ssd and a terrible hitachi 7200rpm 64mb 2tb hdd. I bought the Hitachi off ebay for $70 to help save money but turns out it is a piece of crap. The problem im having is whenever I try to download games off steam onto it steam stops downloading and says disk is busy. I read up on this and it is my Hitachi drive that is the problem. I can also hear it making noises so that is also a bad sign. So I'm going to order a western digital black but in the meantime I need a hard drive to put my games on. I was going to go to best buy tomorrow to get this hard drive. Do you think I will have any issues with this? http://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-mainstream-1tb-internal-serial-ata-hard-drive-for-desktops/9312067.p?id=1219011388237&skuId=9312067&st=internal%20hard%20drive&cp=1&lp=12 Sorry if i posted this in the wrong place i didnt know where to post it. I appreciate any responses. Thanks, GallioneIT
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HGST (used the be Hitachi, part of Western Digital) just released a 1.5TB notebook hard drive. You might think "Hey WD already makes 1.5 and 2 TB laptop drives" and you would be right, but those drives are 15mm thick, these are to thick for newer laptops which use 9.5mm drives. Up until now the larger laptop drives had to be 15mm thick in order to fit the 3 platters that are needed for more then 1TB. So in addition to shrinking the electronics, HGST also had to tweak the mechanical components to provide extra room for the three platters in a 9.5mm package. Travelstar 5K1500 Data sheet Source: http://techreport.com/news/24839/hgst-packs-1-5tb-into-9-5-mm-three-platter-travelstar-5k1500-notebook-drive
