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Hi there! I need some help choosing an upgrade. (I currently have a Ryzen 7 5700X) So I am upgrading my gtx 1080ti fe to either: a rtx 3080ti fe (used for a year - 3 - 4 hours per week) , but can pick it up for around $500 after selling my 1080ti) or a new rtx 4070 fe (which would be around the same price) or a used 3080fe (4 months) I was wondering what might be the better choice. I heard that the 4070 has only slightly less performance than the 3080 , but it has DLSS 3, Frame generation and 12gb of VRAM (which i am leaning towards for VR and future proofing) Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in Advance!

Can someone tell me what are exact FE box dimensions? A friend will try to buy one, but we need to know if it will fit in his baggage.

Hi I can't seem to get my Memory junction temps lower than 108/110c. I have 80mm fans pointed at my 3080 and it's not helping at all. I have even tried with the card outside the case but Junction is 110c whilst core is 35c! Do I really have to water cool my brand new card and void warranty? Only thing I can think of is thermal pads but warranty too... At this rate the card wont last long. I have a 6800 xt and the junction temps on that never go above 80c This issue appears when mining dagger hashimoto and I can't go above 70/80 MH/s as mem overheats in seconds. I have some thermal pads on order as the ones they're using seem ultra soft and ultra low dissipation rate. New thermal pads and following this helps https://www.igorslab.de/en/simple-pad-mod-for-the-force-rtx-3080-founders-edition-slowers-the-gddr6x-temperature-by-a-whopping-8-degrees/

Hey guys, so about a month ago I did a new pc build and the final piece of the puzzle is an rtx 3070. I saw that best buy had the FE retailing for the msrp at $500. I know how their drops work because I got a Ryzen 5600x from one around the start of February. my question is if anyone here knows when another drop will occur and how they are selling the cards for $500 when everything else has a price hike of 10%-50%. The last question is just out of curiosity.

Hi guys, I might buy a 3060ti (or a 3060 when it will come out) and I was wondering if my EVGA 450w 80+ Bronze would work great with a 3060ti. I don't want to overclock any of my components. My currents specs : Case : Empire Gaming Warmachine (with 4 LEDs fans included connected to the psu with molex) MB : Gigabyte B450M-DS3H RAM : 2x8gb of Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3000MhZ PSU : EVGA 450w 80+ Bronze SSD Nvme : Kingston 256Gb 2000Mb/s reading speed SSD : PNY 240Gb 550MB/s reading speed HDD : Seagate Barracuda 1Tb 7200rpm CPU : Ryzen 5 2600 GPU : PNY GTX 1060 6Gb XLR8 OC (you can't fnd it anymore, and it's going to change so we don't care)

I've recently just built my first PC and am running into GPU issues right off the bat. Specs are below. With the first post, and trying to get Windows installed, anytime I would exit and restart the BIOS, I would get a code 97 occasionally. I'd reset, then it would post like normal. I am plugged into the GPU at this point. Fast forward to after Windows is installed. Before updates and drivers, I'm having no issues. I can access the existing NVIDEA control panel that showed up on first boot and adjust resolution, frame rate, etc. However, after applying updates and installing latest drivers, this is when I run into my issues. When I try to boot now, I'll get the same code 97 or it will boot to the login screen, BUT from there will either freeze as I try to enter the password, login but then immediately blue screen, or auto-restart and then boot to the screen that says that Windows encountered an issue. At the same time of those happening, the fans on the GPU will spin up to max rpm. Ultimately, to boot the machine to do anything, I have to switch the monitor to the integrated graphics display port, which allows me to boot with no issues. If the GPU is still in the PCIe slot when rebooting with integrated graphics, the GPU fans will also spin up to full rpm and will continue to run until the system is restarted or powered down. If it's relevant, I also have no issues running on integrated graphics when the GPU is completely removed from the system. I've uninstalled/reinstalled NVIDEA drivers, re-seated the card into the PCIe slot, and changed the PCIe power cable, all with no luck. My final test has been swapping the card to the bottom PCIe slot. Doing this caused me to get a code 96. However, after the third attempt of powering back up, it booted normally and the card seemed to start functioning correctly. I was able to access the NVIDEA controller again and even run 3DMark with no issues. However, restarting or shutting down then rebooting, will send me back to code 96, and once again require 3-4 tries or resetting before actually getting anywhere. So at this point I just don't know if I have a PCIe problem on the motherboard or if I have a bad GPU. Side note, the GPU came from Newegg advertised as new. The box and anti-static were sealed but I noticed that the yellow electrostatic sensitive sticker was already torn in half. Additionally, the protective plastic that normally covers the chrome part of the card was already missing. So I have my thoughts that the card I bought is refurbed or like-new. I've wanted to build my own PC for the longest time and am a big enthusiast, however I am new to this and what I've troubleshooted so far is all I really know what to do. I don't have any means of testing the GPU in another system since this is my first build. Any help would be nice, as I need to try to figure out pretty quick whether the GPU or motherboard need to be RMA'ed. This has definitely put a damper on the excitement of my first build. Specs: ROG Strix Z490-E Intel Core i9-10900K NVIDEA 2080 Super FE (located in top PCIe slot) 32GB DDR4 3600Hz G.Skill Corsair M.2 MB510 960GB (Game Storage) Corsair M.2 MB510 480GB (System/Application Storage)

Since last driver update my 3080ti's RGB is set to red every time I turn on my PC, despite the fact that I had it set to white (and I've never set it to red). Even If I change it in Asus Armoury crate (my mobo's software) or EVGA Precision X1 it still goes red the next time I turn on my PC. Is there a way to permanently set it to one color? SYSTEM: CPU: AMD 5600x MOBO: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-A GAMING RAM: 16gb HyperX Fury 3200mhz PSU: Silentium VeroL3 700W Bronze OS: Win 10 GPU: Nvidia RTX3080ti FE

Hi! This probably has been asked and answered a few times but when I try to google it, all the answers are about mining, which I don't care about. So couple of days ago I took delivery of my new RTX3080ti FE. Ran TimeySpy benchmark with HWinfor on and core temp got to 90C and Memory Junction Temperature got to 105C. Even tho I knew those cards (and especially VRAM) run hot I started tweaking some settings. Changed fan curve, undervolted it to 1850mhz @ 850mV. Core was fine, rarely reaching 75C now, but VRAM, even when playing Cyberpunk was reaching slightly above 100C. I underclocked memory by -502 (as low as I can go in MSI afterburner) and now it usually peaks at 94C when playing Cyberpunk. Son now two questions: 1. Are my current temps ok? (I know that micron lists their GDDR6x at 110C but I don't really think it's safe) 2. Is there anything else I can do to lower the temps (especially VRAM) other then repadding? I not really comfortable to dissemble $1440 card during times where getting a replacement is impossible.

I have 3080ti FE and temps on idle are 45-50C, with fans on and undervolted. I have airflow restricted case tho (NZXT H710 when I was buying it I was going to buy 3070 but shortage happened and I ended up with 80ti). When gaming, temps are good (for a 350W tdp card), barely go up with less demanding games like CS GO (usually bellow 55C), GTA ( bellow 65C), and Cyberpunk (below 75C). But the idle temps are weird. Tho I've heard Moore's Law Is Dead talking that people are reporting 50C idle temps, when I asked about that on r/Nvidia some told me that it's completely normal, others that it's not (someone even said they have 35C @ idle). So my questions: 1. Are idle temps like this normal for 80ti FE in poorly ventilated case. 2. Will changing case fan setup to positive pressure help (now I have 3x 140mm exhaust and 2x 140mm intake mounted on AIO) 3. I have it mounted verticaly, can this be an issue?

Hi, due to first a lot of bad luck and than a ton of good fortune Im currently in possession of two new Ampere GPUs at MRSP: first a 3090 FE and then also a 3080 STRIX OC. Now I am curious if a FE 3090 (excluding VRAM) has any actual performance benefits compared to a 3080 Strix (I had one before an unexpected RMA got me this new one, which run at 2.05Ghz) and is the extra 33% (600 Euro) worth? Thanks

I recently built a mega overkill PC. I am running a 10700K, 32gb Vengeance Pro, 2tb NvME SSDs and a RTX 3090 FE. I am using a 49” Samsung 1080p 120hz (4K monitor is coming Monday). Running F1 2020 I am getting 135-150 FPS at 1080p which seems too be pretty good for the card. However when I play RDR2 at ultra everything at 1080p I am getting between 58-75 FPS. This is fine but I was expecting to get more. This is my first time building a PC since the XP days and I am unsure if this is normal or not. Or if I am bottlenecking because I am using a 10700K instead of a 10900K or I missed a setting somewhere. Any help or insight would be great. EDIT: I forgot to mention that thermals are fine. After playing RDR2 for 2 hours my GPU was right around 57C and my CPU around 40C

I have a rtx 2060 super FE which I want to overclock. I am somewhat new to overclocking and I can't seem to find a optimal setting. My setup is below.

I've swapped the pads for gelid extremes 1,5mm and paste for arctic mx-5 on my 3080ti FE. At first I put a lot of paste and mem temps dropped down but GPU temps went up. Someone told me that I've put to much paste so I repasted with much less. Now these are temps after a few minutes of just driving around in GTA 5 (1440p max). Should I be concerned? Especially that hot spot. Is something wrong and if it is, what can I do?

My 3080ti FE was running quite loud because mem temps were high (stock pads on FE are garbage). So I've replaced them with gelid extremes and repasted the core with Arctic mx-4. Now the mem temps seem to be better, but the core is noticeably worse, and at one point during time spy benchmark it reached 82C (before it reached 70-75). I disassembled the card again and added a bit of paste but it was making contact with the cooler (picture). Should I be worried? What can be causing this and what can I do to fix it?

Does anyone have any experience with nvidia founders card fans going bad? I'm curious because I bought a used 3060ti in mint condition but my only question mark is the fans. I would have no trouble replacing them if they go bad but having an estimated timeline would help. Any tips on prolonging the fan life? Thanks in advance! :)

Hi! The ball bearings in my 2080 FE has given and the fans are making a really annoying noise all the time, so I thought I'd replace them. It's seems like a really painful job so I thought I might aswell redo the paste and the thermal pads. Seems like some pads rip when taking the card apart anyways so probably have to do it anyways. I am having a lot of trouble finding good information on the thickness needed for my pads. Does anybody know what different thicknessess I should go for? Also wondering if anybody got some good info on the replacement of the fans, would like to know how the connectors are on this card. Thanks!

So I'm contemplating selling my GTX 1080 and going with a 1080 Ti. Ordinarily I wouldn't do this but I'm SO CLOSE to being able to hit 4K/60 at settings I'm happy with that I know the Ti will push me over the edge. I have a TV that's 4K/60Hz and FHD/120hz (Vizio P55). Some games I like to play at 1080P due to the higher refresh rate and I know the 1080 TI will not have a problem maintaining 120Hz in said games. I digress... My question is, should I wait for a partner board with a better cooler or just go for the reference design card? For most people I think the answer is obvious, the partner coolers are superior in every way shape and form IF you're going to SLI or have an ATX or mATX case. My use case is a bit different though. I'm gaming using a Phanteks Evolv ITX and I have maybe 3/4" to 1" of clearance between the bottom of my GPU and the PSU basement of the case. The card I have right now (EVGA GTX 1080 FTW) already runs hot in this case even with the fans running very high. 80°C easy at fan speeds well over 80%. So do you think that in my case, the blower cooler would actually be better? I have adequate case cooling. As adequate as is possible at least, w/ two Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans in the front as intakes and a low profile fan in back as exhaust. This is what my config looks like right now: So yeah, what do you think? Am I still better off going with a non-reference card? The good thing about a reference card is that I'm sure there will be aftermarket AIO coolers that will fit. Not so if I go with a custom PCB from ASUS or MSI. I think I'm done with EVGA after this card.

source: https://videocardz.com/66330/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-coming-mid-march the 1st info, GTX 1080Ti won't launch on 28th but mid March - paper launch, nothing new the 2nd bit of info .. well, that's where AIB partners will get real pissed if nVidia will fuck them over by not allowing them to sell Founders Edition - if memory serves, this will be a 1st this is not the 1st time we hear chatter from AIBs regarding their displease with nVidia for Founders Edition cards - nVidia is eating their profits

Hey im due to change out my thermal pads and thermal paste on my gtx 1080 founders Edition, i currently have a EVGA Hybrid kit on the card as a AIO cooling option until i decide if i want to actually water cool my entire rig or not. Question though is this, does anyone know the thickness of the pads needed on this reference card as im sure i was not ment to keep the stock pads on when i added the AIO, there is no thermal issues id just like to get it done when i go and change out my paste from the stock EVGA paste and use MX4. Hope you can help me thanks in advance vesp!

Whats the difference between FE cards and some board partner cards such as msi and so on ? Is there a big difference between those graphics cards ? Ive heard that FE cards have really bad cooling, is that true ? Do they cost more ?

Hi guys, I am just finishing off building a new water cooled pc and I need some advice when it comes to a new graphics card. I plan to run the new graphics card in a custom EK water cooled loop. I will add it to my cpu loop which is a 7700k in a 360mm+240mm set up with EK vardar fans. Should I get a founder's edition 1080ti, or a pre-overclocked card like the MSI 1080ti Gaming X? Each scenario sees me adding an AM waterblock to the gpu. So the question is really - do founder's edition gpus overclock just as well as custom pcb aib cards when on water? Cheers, Mike

I don't overclock much. If I do it would be minimal I like the look of the FE Should I get the FE if I want to go itx in the future Or go with an aftermarket cooler like evga and stick with a matx Thanks ! Gonna be playing on a 1440 ultrawide Want to make sure it works well

I am building a pc for 4k gaming. My case is Corsair Graphite 780t full tower. I am really confused which Gtx 1080 to buy. I see linus and all other channels use Founder's Edition cards. I really like the look of Founder's edition (a.k.a. Reference cards) but i know that they work way hotter and with less fps while gaming than aftermarket cards. Do you think buying Founders Edition card will be stupid act? What other downsides or upsides of FE cards are? How much performance gap are there between aftermarket and FE cards? My other option is Asus Strix. Can i put sli bridge between different cards? ( like asus strix and founders edition )

Hi all So currently I have a 1070 that is your classic open face style card, and I have fairly rapidly run into a problem that made me appreciate the phrase 'thermal management.' My 1070 is, for want of a better word, cooking itself. It's not getting that hot (actually barely touching 70 degrees, which is 100% fine), but the real killer is the noise. To keep it from downclocking too much, I've had to set a fairly aggressive fan profile. It's not even a case of airflow, as I have all fan slots taken up with a combo of 120 and 140mm fans. I knew that it 'might' be a problem, and performance is fine actually, it's just the noise is infuriating. Anybody else use an FE card in a mini case? Kyle on YT did a comparison recently between blower and open face cards in small cases, and there was an appreciable reduction in noise, with only a very marginal reduction in boost clocks, which amounts to a near negligible difference during games. I'm tempted, I have to be honest. Lesson learned!