Search the Community

Hello everyone and happy Easter, I'm starting to get in Audiophile hardware but I don't know much about it. I mainly use my setup for Gaming, Music and watching movie/series. My setup is: Mainboard - Asus Prime x470-pro Speakers - Logitech Z906 Headphones - now Sennsheiser hd 4.5 BT Headphones i want to use - Beyerdynamic BT 900 Pro X 48 Ohm or BT 990 Pro 250 Ohm. The Z906 Subwoofer (all connections are there) is connected to the pc via the black/green/pink jack. The controller is connected to Subwoofer via a VGA connector? Looks like it. I connect the HD 4.5 to the jack output on the Z906 controller, it's decent but I hear noice when I go louder. Now if I want to use either the 900 pro X or 990 pro, should I just connect them to the Z906 controller jack, pc audio jack output or buy a DAC and connect it to PC? I know if you have Headphones with more Ohm you need an AMP/DAC for them to use fully. So my question is: If i get the 900 Pro X 48 Ohm can I use them without DAC and the sound is clear or do I need a DAC if i choose the 990 pro 250 Ohm? Thanks in advance

I'm thinking about swapping out my Corsair Void wireless headphones for a pair of wireless Astros or perhaps more audiophile grade wireless headphones and slap on a modmic. I'm only using audiophile to differentiate from your typical gaming style of headphones/headsets. My first "real headphones" where a pair of wired A50's(I think) I bought about 10 years ago. I don't know when exactly but I wanted to go wireless so I got a pair of Voids from Corsair. I think they had just shortly came out at the time I bought them. Looking at the current version of the wireless Astros I like how they handle charging with a dock/pins vs a cable, which mine is starting to crack. I'm just curious before pulling the trigger if there are any "wireless audiophile" headphones with the same or similar method of charging where I don't have to worry about my cable breaking. Oh, and while not a deal breaker I'm thinking of going open-back for audiophile headphones. PS: I will primarily be using these for gaming and YouTube/Movies

Hey everyone, So i finally decided I missed sports games enough to buy a PS5 slim. I didn't pay too much attention when I bought it but unfortunately sony in their infinite wisdom does not include a 3.5mm audio jack anywhere. In fact the only ports are USB-A, USB-C, ethernet (luckily) and HDMI.... So I piped the HDMI with video and audio signal to my monitor... which of course has no speakers because it's a gaming monitor... I thought i'd have to leave my beatuiful hifiman sundara's on the shelf and use a terrible PS5 headset everytime I used the thing until I realized my monitor has a audio passthrough... so I passed it through to my line in on my PC. With a few software tweaks things were running. I had to keep my PC on in order for the soundcard to play the audio through the speakers but at least both devices could use the same speakers. The problem is... with all these connections and chords even in a tight space the signal really loses steam... I can hear it sure but it isn't that rich beautiful audio I've become accustomed to with my Edifier MR4s for speakers and my HIFIman Sundara's. I was going to buy an amp/ dac anyways for the sundaras because they have low volume problems too... that's just due to the impedance though so I expected to have to do that. I'm wondering if it's safe to run a red and white RCA chord to RCA on the back of an amp/ dac output. Then run a RCA to 3.5mm chord from the input to connect the pc. And another aux chord from the Monitor audio passthrough to the 3.5mm input on a amp/dac and then connect the HIFIMAN Sundara's to the front headphone output weather it's quarter inch or 3.5mm doesn't matter sundara's have both. I essentially need an amp dac that can handle the input of a PS5 slim as well as the input from my PC and then output the audio signal to either the headphones or the speakers. I'll never be using the PS5 at the same time as the PC and vice versa. I'll also never need the speakers to play at the same time as the headphones... I'm just really struggling understanding all these audio things. I've also read that if you have powered speakers not bookshelf speakers like i do that you aren't supposed to run them through another amp/dac beecause it can brick them. I ordered the Fiio k5 pro which on their product page says you can run the RCA from your powered speakers to it... so idunno if that is true or not.... I'm just throughly confused and in need of tech tips. PLZ send help. BTW LTT your deskmat is awesome I love it! Thanks for getting me into PC building it's been a great hobby to get into while I heal from a car crash.

Hello I want to gift my self a new pair of haidset, the Meze 99 classic, with a pretty and high quality cable. I will use it with my pc, mac and iphone. i need help for adapters, i need to adapt the lightning to 4.4mm or 2.5mm jack female from the cable. i thought of using the official lightning to jack adapter that is well recommend from audiophiles and then a jack adapter to 2.5mm jack also from Meze (MONO 3.5 MM OFC BALANCED UPGRADE CABLES) thanks you

I am a member of a University research team based in the UK with the goal to create a new audio product in the PC/ desktop space. Current stage is to receive community feedback to create a data pool to determine the direction for this product. The product itself is within early Alpha stage. Main 5 aims: Sustainably sourced materials Repairable/ Replaceable Supporting premium features that customers want. Allowing for multiple output options. Maintaining a reasonable price point that customers want. https://forms.office.com/e/cajTrtTf0v Any responses are deeply appreciated.

Hi I have a moondrop dash keyboard and a scepter O35 monitor. I occasionally plug my Aorus 15pYD laptop running windows 11 into. When I do this the laptop has its screen disables and is effectively docked into the monitors. However If I plug my headphones into my moondrop dash games basically inevitably freeze and audio crackling issues begin shortly after. With plugging into the onboard audio port the audio will also occasionally crackle and games will occasionally freeze but it is an annoyance that happens once or twice an hour for a couple minutes rather than something that starts and wont stop after around 10 minuites/ I have tried using DDU to uninstall graphics drivers I have uninstalled and reinstalled audio drivers I have uninstalled my speaker audio drivers I have used the nvidiaprofile inspector to enable the second monitor thing Id be happy to answer any questions but some help getting this issue resolved so I can use my DAC and play games without issues would be much appreciated. Edit: to clarify what I mean by freeze I mean my inputs will occasionally be held for long periods of time or they wont register, and I get the occasionally actual freeze but its often more of a my inputs don't work.

I was hoping to ask a few technical questions that I wasn't able to understand online. I'm planning ot move into a new place for university and with a new desk and carpet flooring, I thought I'd add audio! I am moving from Logitech Z623 over to some new bookshelf speakers for both audio quality and my new white theme aesthetic. My general budget is roughly $300, but I may go over depending on the questions (the missing third component I'm confused about, see below). Before anything: Here's what I picked out after lots of readings on Reddit/audio forums/audio articles https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJHAZZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Edifier MR4 - $129 USD) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FXG9BLR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Monoprice 150w Active Subwoofer 109723 - $125) [Not to be mistaken with Monoprice's SW-12] I am very used to a 2.1 setup and do not care a bunch about having neutral-flat sound signatures. I'm sure the monitors will sound fine and they seem to beat the competition in the same price bracket (R1280XX, JBL, etc). I heard my friend's Edifier R1280DBs, which is apparently similar to the MR4's but comes out slightly worse. I noticed his Bass was fine only in higher volumes, but one reason I loved the Logitech z623's was because of its rolling bass. It's 200w RMS, with the subwoofer accounting for 130w. Logitech support couldn't get me a driver diameter for some reason, but I have reason to believe it's 6 or 7 inches. It helped a lot when calling on discord, or watching videos involving a lot of dialogue at low volumes (bass roller set high). Additionally, I understand Edifier MR4 don't come with sub-out ports, but I really like the look and convenience of the front headphone jack. The Edifier 1280's don't fit the theme. I assumed (could be wrong) all the $100-$150 active/powered subwoofers were going to come out better than the Logitech's (or at least on par). Some others I looked into: 1.) Polk PS10 which people call the bottomfeeder sub ("I saw this one get flamed so much on those audio sites im scared to pick) 2.) Dayton SUB-10000 & Dayton SUB-1200 which was supposedly the best (didn't pick because I really am just using this really casually. Didn't want to add the $40) 3.) Yamaha Audio 10" 100W (one source said tyhis is the best but its even more pricey than Dayton) 4.) Edifier T5 (Prob worse than previous options at same price and is only 8in) 5.) BESTISAN 100w 8" (super tempting because of price. If it's "good enough", let me know) Option 5 link: https://www.amazon.com/BESTISAN-100-Watt-Powered-Subwoofer-Distortion/dp/B09Q82T1ZL/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=BESTISAN&qid=1684083776&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0 Option 5 has a 25$ coupon & 10% off on top of that so the price drops to 70$. I was considering trying both the Monoprice I picked and just seeing which is "sufficient" for me. Feel free to give me some advice as I am really going off of just some things I read online. It's very much appreciated Question: Here's where things get confusing for me: Now, I'm not exactly an audiophile and I usually use wired earphones (7Hz Timeless)connected directly to my motherboard, and it sounds just fine. However, when it came to the Kanto YU6 speakers I tried, I really felt I needed to allocate budget to a subwoofer as I can not get used to that. I don't need a perfectly neutral sound signature and I'd prefer to mess with My idea is to relocate my Odyssey G9 (+Ergotron HX arm) to the corner of my bedroom to save desk space and allow for speakers to fit on each side of the monitor. The desk will be an L-shape to make this work. The sub will be under my desk and the speakers will be pointing at me from about 3-5ft away supposedly. Here's where it gets tricky though. Judging from the lack of sub-out port on the Edifier MR4, I was thinking of the following options that may or may not work. My ideal case is to pick the one that has the best sound quality without spending a whole lot. The source would be my PC's motherboard rear audio jack. Note: both speaker and Subwoofer are wired & Active/Powered). Op1.) I purchase a 3.5mm splitter such as this aux splitter and just connect split the audio coming out of my PC to both the active Subwoofer and active bookshelf speakers. Op2.) Connect the Subwoofer to my PC. I then connect the bookshelf speaker to the subwoofer's "line out". (I don't really understand the crossover dial & "high-level IN/Out" on the back ports" I'll assume I wont have easy access to turning the bass dial on the subwoofer. This is the least ideal because I won't be able to use the sub when connecting to the bookshelf speaker via front-aux-port or Bluetooth. Op3.) I purchase a stereo mixer / budget amp / receiver/ Audio interface / Audio-Switch [Pick One?] to split the source audio and send out to the subwoofer and cabinet speaker. Would allow me to change the volume levels of the bass (sub) and speakers and I probably wouldn't adjust anything else. Also, many of them have a convenient headphone (or aux) jack I can use instead of the front ports on the speaker. Example of the stereo mixer: Stereo Mixer (Worth noting I have one of these but it's super ugly and used for karaoke.) Example of the budget amp: fancy tube amp thing (Typical random 2.1 amp I found.) Example of BLUETOOTH amp: fancy tube amp thing (Cheapest 2.1 bluetooth amp because my pc has BT and I dont need more watts for active speaker/sub) Example of Reciever: stereo receiver (No expert but pretty sure it's only necessary when I'm doing more than 2.1 audio, usually for theatre setups and PASSIVE speakers/subs) Example of Audio Interface: Audio interface (might not work ) Example of Audio Switch: Audio Switch (most practical/Ideal??? ) Question: Q1.) for OP1, would it really work? Does the sub just take in the whole audio and selectively display the lower frequency? Q2.) Would OP2 Work? Would connecting the speaker to the subwoofer instead of the PC (like in op1) cause any sort of noticeable delay/buzz/distortion? Q3.) If I picked Q3, which is quite tempting with the convenient nob controls for output 1 (bass volume, or subvolume) and output 2 (bookshelf speakers volume), what would I buy? To my understanding a mixer's got excessive stuff for microphones, audio interfaces have useless features like a phantom for mics, and receivers/amps are useless because I have active speakers/subs. I think the Audio switch option is the most practical but I could be wrong. TLDR: I picked bookshelf speakers with no sub-out and also bought a subwoofer. Both are active/powered. How do I connect both of them to my PC? Please let me know!!, thank you very much.

Hello everyone, I am not quite sure if this is the right place to ask but if you could help me it would be awesome, o hace never ask on a forum before and I'm not a native speaker sorry for any errors. Now to the point I I'm trying to choose what would be best between a logitech z607 or a pair of budget audio monitors (eris e3.5 or similar), i do t have a huge room to fill up with sound or anything alike is just for my room, i do like to listen music on a pretty high volume so I can sing with anyone noticing how bad i sound but i prefer pretty good quality audio, my concerns are 1 the logitech seems good since is a 5.1 but I'm concern about a no so good quality and monitors from what I could gather seems awesome sounding but I'm afraid they won't be as loud as I would like to, if you guys have any opinions//experience//ideas in regards to this i will be thankful for then. On a side note how good is it to have 5.1 over a regular stereo set up when your primary goal is to jam to some 80 rock (?), Side note 2, diy the heck out of it is on the table i just would know how to BUTTTTT I'm good at following tutorials if that helps. Thanks for reading and kind regards from Colombia.

Hello! I'm new to the luxury audio market and need some purchasing advice! I've heard really good things about the Sennheiser HD600's and was thinking about purchasing them. However, when I've read online, I've found that most people say that to get the most out of the headphones, you need to use a headphone amplifier. Is this true? And also would somebody kindly, please explain to me what the job of the amp is and why it's necessary? Also, if I were to buy an amp, how do I know if it's a good enough amp? Thanks a lot again, LTT forum. You've helped me in the past, and I can't wait to hear back from you!

I’m looking for a dac to pair with sennheiser hd660s that could support dual audio imputs at the same time. I currently use a artis pro plus game dac where I use audio from my pc and my iPad at the same time so I can play game and watch videos without having to navigate through other tabs. I was wondering if there is a dac/amp that would work well for both gaming and audiophile listening which could support imput from my pc and iPad/ or other device simultaneously, preferably under $300. Thanks

Hi there, Can the Roccat Syn Pro cause 2.4ghz wireless interference with it's "Stellar Wireless" just like most normal ghz technology in close proximity with other tech? In other words can it cause interference with Routers and Ethernets? *EDIT* I should also ask that can I use Surround Sound on PS4/5 and Nintendo Switch via adapter after setting it to Surround Sound via the software on PC or will it be Stereo? I heard it is possible to use this Headset on Consoles (Albeit with limited functionality) even if not advertised and I know unfourtunately Xbox doesn't support USB Headsets both wired & wireless so I will just use my SHP 9500 + V-Moda Boompro for that platform.

So I have a very large head and I therefore struggle to find headphones that fit nicely. I am currently in the market for a new pair of headphones which will be good for mixing/mastering but my main use will be for gaming and just general listening. I have mainly been looking at around the $230 and below as I am also looking at a dac/amp for mic and headphone compatibility and need to spread my budget. I have tried on the DT770 Pros from Beyerdynamic and after about 10 mins of listening I felt them pinching below my ears and on my temples. I have heard that you can stretch them out a bit though. I have also owned a pair of M50x's but no matter how much I attempted to stretch them they always hurt my head after about 40 mins of use and I kept getting pressure headaches. I am based in South Africa so unless I go through a convoluted route I can't get much other than your standard level headphones that are available in the wide market, so most Drop Items are out of the picture unless there is an easy and cheapish way of shipping them to South Africa. If MyUS is to be believed they can do it for me which would mean I could get the HD58X headphones or even the HD6XX but I have heard different reports on their gaming abilities and what games to use them for. I'd mainly be playing Escape from Tarkov, CSGO and Rocket League with other FPS and single player games thrown in. I have seen lots of people recommend the K702s or K712s from AKG. Another note is that it doesn't matter if they are closed or open back, I have MX Speed switches on my keyboard so they aren't super loud. For another frame of reference, I own a pair of HyperX cloud Alphas and they fit my head perfectly and I have had no issues for a few years now. Any help would be great ly appreciated

I know im asking a lot but im looking for a pair of headphones that meet these specifications - ANC or great natural isolation - aptx HD (or ldac maybe?) - able to be used as wired headphones - decent battery life - Flatish frequency response Any suggestions welcome

So I’ve always been a computer guy and when it comes to headphones I generally just go for brands or headphones that I’ve heard a lot about…. It’s why I have AirPod pros, it’s why I have the Sony MX3’s. I have a gaming PC in which I use a pair of HD599’s, I’ve been using these for several years after a pair of HyperX headphones (with their provided usb). I’ve been using my HD599’s with their usb for a while now and I’m happy with my current PC build… the only thing left to change is my sound setup. I’ve never been one for speakers because 1) I’m not a fan of clutter, most of I my current upgrades have been changing everything to wireless devices or stuff that helps me cable manage & 2) I just don’t have the desk space or room space for speakers. I do however, have enough space on my monitor stand to place a DAC & an AMP. I’m looking to get both those and a new pair of headphones (preferably open back) for around or under £500. Can anyone help? At the moment I'm looking at the Hifiman Sundara as this has been mentioned a few times

Do either of the above headphones need an amp to drive, if so what are some cheap options? Thanks in advance!

I currently have the DT 990 pro which I'm very happy with (sound-wise), however, the issue I'm having is the earpads. When I first got them, my ears slightly touched the inside, but I thought it would go away when I wore them in, but they didn't, it has only gotten worse. I looked at some bigger earpads, but they would be upwards to 100 dollars, hence the shipping. Been looking at some other headphones, like the HD6xx and HD58x, and I can't decide on what to pick from. I mainly do gaming but watch a lot of movies, series and youtube etc. I also been looking at other headphones such as the "HIFIMAN", any recommendations? Using the massdrop DAC/AMP combo.

So, I have been using Audio Technica ATR 1300 for last 1 year 10 months with a UMC22. Its my bday tommorow and i want to Pick up a new microphone. I really love the Rode podmic and i always wanted it ever since it came out. I cannot afford to buy both a Scarlet 3rd gen and Podmic. So for the time being, It will be Podmic and UMC22. Will these 2 work together at all? Or it the podmic as power hungry as SM7b?

Here is my take on a Budget Headphone Audiophile Setup. Enjoy. :)

Hey guys ! I recently acquired some Electrostatic Loudspeakers (Quad ESL-63), and I think the technology is not known enough and is so cool I'm currently rebuilding them, as the glue and materials have deteriorated over time (I think mine are at least 35-40 years old) If anyone here has any tips for the project I'm starting (getting them functional again) please don't hesitate to comment Also, I'm curious as to if there are any plans for LTT to do a video on those, as I feel like the technology behind them is really cool

Hi what is the ATH-GDL3 Soundstage, Imaging, Clamping-Force, breathability & comfort for glasses compared to the SHP-9500? I love my SHP-9500 but I sometimes find myself having to keep re-adjusting around my ears & head depending where I am. Also can I use any 3.5mm cable or does it have the locking-mechanism that restricts the user to use brand labelled cables like the Sennheiser HD 598? (Links for reference) https://www.philips.com.hk/en/c-p/SHP9500_00/hifi-stereo-headphones https://www.audio-technica.com/en-gb/ath-gdl3

I know they are not comparable but I just want to know that, are xm4 worth 2.5x the money compared to soundcore life q30. I want to buy a headphone for study with anc(as my neighborhood is so so loud and my room walls are walls of the house nk just outside of my window is road) so I am looking for a headphone that can cancel out those annoying sounds.

Hello guys I'm new here Need a recommendation for a headphone (never used one before).Till now used only earphone (R.N using Realme buds classics) budget is tight around 8000 rupees (100$)… need - headphone for long hours classes, casual music and decent passive noise isolation (so closed back one's).

Given the way the stickers are placed around the inside of the switch, even in places where they do not expect people to see, I would not be surprised if the person who created it believed in some magical "negative ion" effect that would change the audio quality. Likely nothing dangerous, but I would love to know if they are radioactive.

I have Philips SHP9500 but it has basically non-existent sub-bass and anything below 50-55 Hz is unenjoyable (and was almost a deal breaker to me as I'm a basshead) no matter how hard you try to EQ it. Anyway, it's still a perfect choice for general music listening and production, movies and games. So my question to you is: What is the ideal 100-170 USD (7k-15k INR) choice for listening to bass music without any fear of any overwhelming of one set of frequencies over the other yet still maintaining the high fidelity of all the instruments and percussive elements in the track? Framing this question differently, Which headphone(s), within the above-mentioned price bracket, deliver(s) the tightest possible, fast responding, highly resolved, and most accurate bass(not necessarily a thumping one but if that's available too then most welcome) without overemphasizing the rest of the spectrum?

hello. im trying to make my own headphones to get higher quality while saving money but am very lacking in experience. the best headphones ive ever used cost £10. i have found a driver that seems promising, but im worried i might have missed something important seeming as im so inexperienced. I will attach the specs bellow. id really appreciate it if someone could point out any problems the drivers might have and give me a rough idea of how much they think they're worth. I know specs aren't everything, but I hope it will at least give me a good starting point. knowing how much they're worth is the most important thing to me, I don't mind them having flaws as long as they're good value. thanks for reading.