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I'm in the Victoria B.C. area, and I'm wondering if someone knows of a parts store similar to free geek. I'm looking to build my first PC and picked a heck of a year to start. I'm alright with frankensteining it slowly over time to save $ Thanks!
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Budget (including currency): Going for high-end gaming staying as low under £1350 (Great British Pound) Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: CSGO, GTA 5, Valorant, PUBG and many other games that I will try out and hope to love. Other details: All my peripherals are already hand picked, upgrading from a HP Stream 14 4gb RAM, Intel Celeron, Half Working Screen with the other being delayed and white, Keycaps missing, hoping to buy by the end of this year. 1080 Gaming, 144Hz. Here is my amazon list for show, will be using pcpartpicker to get the cheapest offers though. https://www.amazon.co.uk/hz/wishlist/ls/10EP59I9Z009T?ref_=wl_share No one was answering me on other topic so I reposted here.
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So basically I was thinking of getting myself a new PC, to be more precise build one for myself, and I would like to hear your opinions of it, I already found all the parts and I'm gonna list them below, Budget (including currency): Roughly around 1000-1300€ Country: Croatia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Mostly for gaming, playing newer pc games, like warzone and other upcoming pc games at 1080p, and some video editing maybe even streaming List: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor MOBO: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury 16GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory HDD: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive SSD: Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive GPU: Sapphire Radeon RX 5600 XT 6 GB PULSE Video Card CASE: Zalman S3 ATX Mid Tower Case PSU: RIOTORO ENIGMA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply I was also thinking about FreeSync compatible monitor, so I was thinking about Philips 23.6" 248E9QHSB So basically, if you guys know any better monitor, for similar price, or any change in the parts above, I'd like to hear them out. Thanks
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I thought I'd share a short tale today about fixing a dead graphics card! A few months ago, I bought a box of graphics card for the sole purpose of getting an EVGA GTX 295 for a display model (what can I say? It's a neat looking, beefy dual-GPU card and I thought it would be neat to display). Turns out that all four of the cards included in the box were dead. While I didn't really need any of them to work, it was kind of a bummer that I wouldn't get a conveniently usable GPU out of the deal... UNTIL TODAY! Yesterday I took another look at one of the dead GPUs, an XFX 8600GT 256MB, and I noticed that the a number of capacitors had blown. With the hope that the capacitors were the only issue, I scheduled a trip to a local electronic component store, Lee's Electronics in Vancouver, purchased a number of replacement capacitors and attempted to replace the bad ol' capacitors with some brand spankin' new ones. For the people who might be contemplating doing something like this, it's important to note two things about replacing capacitors, and the person replacing them: 1) Capacitors can be replaced with another capacitor as long as the capacitance (measured in micro-Farads or uF) is an identical amount, and the rated voltage of the new capacitor is equal to OR greater than the old capacitor. While people say you CAN use a higher capacitance in some cases, it depends on what the capacitor is being used for exactly, so for someone (like me) who is not sure, using an identical value is the safest option. 2) I am pretty amateur/bad at soldering, and even I managed to remove and replace the bad capacitors (though perhaps not... perfectly. More on that shortly.) While I initially struggled to get the first capacitor out of the spot it was soldered into, I eventually managed to get a technique down of heating up the solder that was holding the capacitor legs in place while holding and gently rocking the capacitor back and forth until the legs slid out of the holes they were pushed into. The first try must have taken me a whole 5-10 minutes just to take out the capacitor, not to mention another 5 minutes of trying to seat a new one in place. Eventually though, I figured out a solid methodology: 1) Heat up the solder attached to the legs from the backside of the graphics card 2) Grab the capacitor on the front side of the card and rock it back and forth, pulling gently on it to pull the legs through the holes on the PCB. 3) After pulling out the old capacitor, take the replacement one and trim the legs down to a more manageable size (I trimmed them down from 3-ish centimetres to about 0.5 centimetres) 4) If there's leftover solder in the holes where the old capacitor legs used to be, heat the solder up and push the legs of the new capacitor through (making sure the positive and negative ends of the capacitor are in the right spots). You may need to rock the capacitor back and forth as you push the legs through, heating the solder to make sure it doesn't cause the legs to stick. 5) Once you push the capacitors all the way through, apply flux to the metal legs sticking through the PCB. I used a flux pen that I also bought at Lee's Electronics. 6) Finally, apply some solder the capacitor legs to secure them to the graphics card PCB. Done! I have a bit of a confession to make. I mentioned earlier that I didn't quite perfectly perform the capacitor replacement, and that's because I accidentally burnt the tip of my finger when I brushed it against my very-hot soldering iron. That, uh, sucked. But! Did it work? Was there a point to spending $5 in capacitors, burning the tip of my finger and possibly inhaling some maybe-not-good-for-me-fumes because I'm not the smartest cookie in terms of workbench placement? The answer is Yes! The once-dead 8600GT has risen once again to deliver pixels anew, booting into the BIOS and Windows without breaking a sweat! So, that's it! Hope you enjoyed the brief story/guide of a dumb-ass electronics amateur fixing a graphics card with blown capacitors! Hopefully this is useful to others who might be thinking about trying this on one of their dead graphics cards, or at the very least they find it mildly amusing!
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I built my computer a couple of days ago and everything as far as I know is going very well but when I turn on my computer I goes right to the Bios instead of launching/booting windows automatically. In my Bios under boot priority I have three drives show up (I only have 2 drives in my system an SSD and an HDD) one that reads Windows Boot manager (samsung 850 evo SSD), Samsung evo 850 SSD, and WD 1000...etc. Is this common? Is this an easy fix? Why is there three rather than two drives? Did I install windows correctly or is there something I missed?
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Hey guys! Tomorrow I will build my ryzen build. Is there any risk of fucking the whole system or a component? It's my first time building a pc and i want to know if there is anything i should be aware of.
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I want to get a 3d printer my budget is 1000 and below ( with tax and shipping). I would like to get a really nice 3d printer to begin with nothing insane or super fancy just something that I can ease into and start slowly learning with.
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I have a potentially expensive problem I wish to avoid. I’ve come here seeking help from around the world for my final defense. Here are the facts: Graphics card-GTX 1080 ti (Not even a year old). motherboard-MSI Z270-A-Pro. I am a reckless individual with above average knowledge on pc building. I am conflicted. I removed graphics card. I put back the graphics card. These are the problems: After Fact #6, I plugged in my DP chord and turned on pc to play a much needed after work session of GTA V. Only to discover that my monitor was not getting an input. I’ve placed GPU into both slots but can’t get an input. When I use my integrated GPU, Nvidia GeForce app cant recognize the GPU. (Like it’s not even there) The GPU fan isn’t spinning. And finally, the expensive solution I've procured: Replace graphics card (it might have physical damage) Or replace mother board. (Which might have bad slots) Please I need a hero. Is there no one else? Let me know if you need more information to get this solved. Thanks!
- 32 replies
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- graphics card
- motherboard
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Hey community =D! I want to build my very first Pc, i want it for 4k gaming. What do you recommend? Greeting from Mexico =D!
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Here are the specs: CPU: AMD FX 6300 GPU: Gigabyte GTX 960 Mobo: ASRock 930m Pro3 PSU: Corsair C500M RAM: 2x Ballistix 4GB DDR3 HDD: 1TB Seagate SSD: 120GB Kingston OS: Windows 7 Pro. 64 bit I put this computer together last night for my wife as something of an early Valentine’s gift. The build went smooth with no issues. After we got Windows installed, I started pulling drivers for the hardware. I suspect this is where I messed something up. The Problem: While making light use of her computer, (Chrome and Spotify running) it will freeze briefly for about 30 - 60 seconds. It comes back afterwards, but it’s an annoying problem to have. Possibly related: If any program ever needs to install .net framework, it fails. GeForce Experience and various Steam games have experienced this issue. I suspect I messed the drivers up because we had a little hiccup while I installed them. I got what I believe were all the relevant drivers from ASRock’s website, including drivers for the NIC, USB 3.0, something called AMD all-in-one which I assumed were chipset drivers, and Audio. Then I went to Nvidia and started downloading the GeForce Experience to get drivers for her graphics card. While this was installing, we also ran Windows Easy Transfer to get her user profile and settings onto the new computer from our old shared computer. The GeForce experience failed to install, citing a failure to install the .NET Framework as the issue. I pulled the standalone drivers for her GPU from Nvidia’s site and got them working, it’s installer also mentioned a failure to install the .NET Framework. Am I missing an obvious driver here? Did Running Windows Easy Transfer mess up the graphics drivers? Is the .NET Framework issue indicative of a larger problem? I’m kind of an amatuer at this, so any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Troubleshooting attempted: Install .NET Framework separately (3.5, 3.0, 2.0 already installed) Update BIOS (From P1.00 to P1.40) Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool (no issues detected)
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Hello, I am currently looking into my first DSLR. I have used them before and was wondering whether the Canon EOS Rebel T3i or the Nikon D3300 is better. From what I have gathered, the Nikon one is better with more pixels, capable of 1080p @60FPS video, compared to 30FPS on the Canon, and being $100 cheaper. I wouldn't use the flip-out Canon LCD, and for me it seems that for the Canon you are paying more for less... would you agree with this decision of the Nikon D3300 over the Canon T3i? Thanks
- 3 replies
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- amateur
- photographer
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What kind of DSLR camera model you guys recommend me ? ( I am amateur who wants to buy his first dslr ) Price range: 400-500euro for just the body. I will think about what lenses i need after i buy the body I looked at this two models so far: Nikon D3300 // Sony a58 Feel free to recommend other models i will buy whatever you guys recommend me, becuase i dont understand that much mysel. Just want to get the best for this price and be happy with it.
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My current PC build has a amd fx 6300, a MSI r9 280x TF, and a Corsair 750w PSU. However recently I decided that I want to buy a second r9 280x because I felt like I needed more power, and I would like to know if the two r9 280x cards will slow down the fx 6300. I also thought about buying a fx 8350 instead of an extra graphics card, so please tell me if that would be a better idea. Also I am fairly new to PC building, so try not to shout at me too loud for being stupid. Thanks in advance.
- 12 replies
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- computerbottleneck
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hi... im planning to build a pc, (first time building one actually) and i need some advice in choosing the parts I need. so here's the gaming performance/situation I'm gonna be having for the planned pc - 1080p - vid option is high with AA or ultra w/o AA - 1920x1048 screen resolution - no overclocking on CPU and GPU as much as possible - 1 monitor - air cooled. it should be fine if I'm not overclocking right? I particularly need help on the parts with "*" *CPU: Intel i5 (I'm not exactly sure what model will fit my need) RAM: Corsair 8GB DDR3 1600mghz will be fine right? *Mobo: msi mobo's for mid-tower cases? I have no idea on what the exact model tho. And, is MSI a good choice for my situation? or should I go for the ones in asus side? any suggestions on the exact model that would fit my need? *GPU: since I'm not gonna be overclocking, I want to go for a reference model NVidia GPU's since its cheaper. tho I still need an exact model suggestion. and is NVDIA really worth my money? *Storage: I'd prefer a 1tb SSHD is it a good choice? i need a brand. *Power supply: is a modular/not-so modular 750w corsair good and worth it? suggestions in monitors and pc cases are deeply encouraged as well.. setting the monitor aside, my budget is $1000 and also, if possible, suggest parts where there are video reviews. haha. Thanks in advance for your help and time.. peace out!
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- pc build
- first time
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You may have seen my old post (ultimate £400 build) but are your socks back on, ready to be blown off again? http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/HDmwHx What do you think? It is to be used to play 1080p at ultra settings as well as doing productivity stuff such as Photoshop as well as amateur video editing. This is not spam btw if your seeing both posts, just trying to create a series of builds for myself and for others on other sites aswell.
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So ladies and gents, what do you think? http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/ncmwHx It is to be used for gaming at ideally 1080p high - ultra settings but also for a bit of productivity and also for capturing game footage with a teeny tiny bit of amateur video editing
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Hello guys a friend of mine and I are looking to create a team in DOTA 2, we are not pro players but we are not noob or nowhere near that, we are looking for players that meet this requierments: -Live in the American Continent (Due to ping issues and time zone but this may varie depending on wher you live even if you don't live in this continent). -Be at least 17 (No age cap). -Like having a good time playing DOTA 2 (Aka not ragin even if we are getting stumped, ocasional raging is accpeted because, well we know DOTA). -Have between 400-700 hours played at DOTA 2 (Here is a hour cap because we want to get better as a team and don't have a big gap of individual ability). -Be commited to the team. -Be open minded (This means that we as a team will tell you your strengths and weaknesses and will also help or give ideas on how to improve). -Be honest and accept resoponsibilities. -Speak english and/or spanish. -Have a microphone. Those are the requierments you should have to apply for a spot in the team (3 available), also we would like to practice everyday (we understand that you are human and have stuff to do so you may miss some of the practice due to exams, you got grounded, etc...), we would practice at night at least 1 or 2 matches depending on what time all the team gets online and we were contemplating to begin around 8:00 GMT time zone, we still have no name or anything so that will be discussed as a team until everybody agrees on the name, we will also name a captain based on META knowledge and also this will be voted on, my friend and I won't have any power above any of the other teamates just because we founded the team (if it actually gets founded). So if you meet the requierments and want to start playing competitive DOTA 2 and practice as a team then leave a short description about you (30 words will do) and your DOTA 2 ID and we will contact you wether we will consider you or not and why. Thank you for reading this. Josep (my steam username is Joseprtv)
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So I just found this movie trailer (amateur movie) on youtube and heard that it was made by some finnish dudes, and it was based on the metro last light videogame and thought that i'djust share it with you guys here:D I think it looks pretty amazing for an amateur movie:D Here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zUuDZ-HUxs The full movie will be released 1st of December (i think)
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I am in the process of building a new tower, a first time rig that i am putting together myself. In other words i am a "Cherry" or "Noob", but you have to start somewhere. Can i safely mount a Hard Drive or Solid State Drive to the backside of my Motherboard tray safely? Currently debating on velcro strips, drilling minor holes into the back of the tray, mounting a plastic drive slot on the back of the tray? The goal is to open a space up and build a water loop in the near future, and if possible hide my unsightly storage drives from view. that and i hate the look of the racks for the storage drives. another idea was to mount the Hard Drive to the bottom of my 5.25 rack with cables aimed towards the side of the case (Away from the window). this is my build i am putting together after i collect everything: AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 ATX AM3+ Motherboard Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Dual Classified ACX Video Card (2-Way SLI) Corsair Vengeance C70 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Dual BenQ XL2720Z 144Hz 27.0" Monitor Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 (OEM) (64-bit)
- 4 replies
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- ssd placement
- drive over heat?
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I don't plan to OC but I do want the build and all of the components to remain relatively cool. So question 1: Do I need 3 fans AND a CPU cooler? question 2: Is the SSD worth the initial investment or should I save it for a later date upgrade? Question 3: How greatly would the longevity of the build increase if I went with an i7? Final Question: Do I need thermal paste if I have a CPU cooler? This is mostly for gaming, but I want it to be well equipped for everything. [PCPartPicker part list](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/tVwgFT) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://pcpartpicker.com/p/tVwgFT/by_merchant/) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54690) | $214.99 @ Newegg **CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) | $24.99 @ Newegg **Thermal Compound** | [Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/arctic-silver-thermal-paste-as535g) | $6.96 @ OutletPC **Motherboard** | [Asus Maximus VI Hero ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-maximusvihero) | $169.99 @ NCIX US **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cml16gx3m4a1600c9b) | $169.99 @ Micro Center **Storage** | [seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seagate-internal-hard-drive-st1000dm003) | $52.91 @ OutletPC **Video Card** | [Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB DirectCU II Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-video-card-gtx770dc2oc2gd5) | $304.99 @ NCIX US **Case** | [Cooler Master Elite 431 Plus (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-case-rc431pkwn2) | $50.98 @ Newegg **Power Supply** | [Corsair 860W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-ax860i) | $197.99 @ Amazon **Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit)](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-gfc02050) | $84.98 @ OutletPC **Monitor** | [Acer S220HQLAbd 21.5" Monitor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/acer-monitor-etws0hpa01) | $118.19 @ Amazon **Monitor** | [Acer S220HQLAbd 21.5" Monitor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/acer-monitor-etws0hpa01) | $118.19 @ Amazon **Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/noctua-case-fan-nff12pwm) | $17.99 @ Amazon **Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/noctua-case-fan-nff12pwm) | $17.99 @ Amazon **Case Fan** | [Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/noctua-case-fan-nff12pwm) | $17.99 @ Amazon | | **Total** | Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1569.12
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Hey everyone, Im interested in starting to save up for a really good, high end, high budget gaming desktop, but this would be my first build so I need some insight as to if any parts Im interested in getting are wrong or others could be better. I have been watching several build videos including the ones Linus put out. I have put together a wishlist on amazon and newegg of the parts Im interested in getting for the build, I'll post the links as well as list out each part here. Im aiming for a build between $1500-2000, which the list I put together adds up to just under $2000. Can anyone please give me pointers, tips, etc. on this build? I would love some insight on the best sites/places to get these parts, as well as anything Im overlooking (besides periferials, they are for another time), like what parts I shouldnt get or what could be better for what Im aiming to do and complement each other. http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/EFFX8PCQF7GR/ref=topnav_lists_3 http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/TemporaryWishList.aspx -Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 (CC-9011030-WW) Black Steel / Plastic ATX High Airflow Cube Case (I really like the layout of this case) -ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard (love the sheild, waranty, design/layout, and durability) -EVGA 04G-P4-3687-KR GeForce GTX 680 FTW+ w/Backplate 4GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card (maybe even a 780) -Rosewill CAPSTONE-650-M 650W Continuous @ 50°C, Intel Haswell Ready, 80 PLUS GOLD, ATX12V v2.31 & EPS12V v2.92, SLI/CrossFire ...(something with plenty of power for everything (I hope this is enough) but I want to take advantage of the haswell lower power states too) -Intel Core i7-4770K Haswell 3.5GHz LGA 1150 84W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80646I74770K (would like to get a good, new gen CPU) -CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M2A1600C9 (want good quality, good speed, high capacity cards) -Corsair Force Series GS CSSD-F180GBGS-BK 2.5" 180GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) (as of right now a mix of SSD and HDD seems best, sizes can vary) -Seagate Constellation ES ST1000NM0011 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Enterprise Hard Drive (atleast 1TB of storage for games and videos, probably get more later) -LG Black 12X Blu-ray Combo Drive SATA Model UH12NS29 - OEM (probably least nessessary, but if I anything I want top) -Noctua NH-U12P SE2 120mm SSO CPU Cooler (I recall seeing these as great coolers and would like to get a mid sized one I can rely on to be plenty of cooling for the CPU, something to fit with the RAM too) Im not exactly looking to cut out on quality, but if an item has a cheaper, but effectively the same power, counterpart than I'd appreciate a notice to that. like, if I chose something thats going for a excessively high price for little gain over a cheaper product (such as comparing a $1000 Titan to a $650 GTX 780)