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Showing results for tags 'wiring'.
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I have an NZXT 510i case for a VR build. The specs are: CPU: Ryzen 3600x Gigabyte Windforce RX 5700 XT GPU Gigabyte X570i MoBo NZXT Kraken X63 280mm CPU AIO w/ 2x 120mm NZXT fans (Intake) - (Sata/Fan header powered, USB 2.0 commo) 2x 8GB Ballistix Max RGB RAM 2x Corsair ML120 Fans (Top & Rear exhaust) EVGA 650 Bronze Modular PSU NZXT 3 port Fan/2 port LED Controller (USB 2.0 powered & commo) The MoBo only has 1 USB 2.0 header, so I installed an NZXT Internal USB expansion kit connected via extension to the MoBo header and powered by a SATA to 4-Pin converter. I attached the both USB connectors from the Kraken and Controller to the internal expansion module. However, when I open the NXZT utility, the only USB device that shows up is the RGB/Fan controller. The it's as if the Kraken doesn't even exist, even though it's attached to the same module. I have no way to control the lighting (which isn't a big deal), but more importantly, I can't control the pump, so it's only running at default performance. With such a small case, I wanted to up the pump RPMs to help with thermals - however it's like it's not even there. The Kraken lights up and by feel I can tell it's letting off heat, however I have to way to check how well it's working, what mode it's in, or even see it on the menu. Does anybody have an experience with internal USB splitters/hubs that might be able to help guide me through getting it to recognize the second device? Thanks in advance. (EDIT: Oh, and Oculus Rift S for the VR Setup with an HDMI output to the TV for family fun) -
1st problem I have a onboard speaker that i dont know how to mount. I dont know which orientation is right. It says in the maunal to attach the front usb, hdd, speaker etc to this module but i dont know which of the two cables, red and black are ground or +5v? Is this speaker attached the right way or should it be reversed. Tell me which picture is right, 1 or 2? Option 1. Option 2. 2nd problem Secondly I need help wiring up my motherboard. The manual is a POS. Its an X99 E WS. I have connected the 24pin EATXPWR and EATX12v but there are still 2 empty ports, one 8 pin EATX12V1 and another 6pin EATX12V_1. I have a Corsair AX1500I PSU so i have plenty of power available but im unsure if it is necessary to connect the addition cables. My setup is: .i7 5960x running stock .16gb Dominator Platinum .Corsair H110i gtx .Corsair AX1500I .GTX1080FE .Elgato HD60 Pro .Soundblaster ZXR .Asus Hyper PCIE addin 256GB SM951 .M.2 512GB SM951 .2x Samsung 850 pro 512gb Raid 0 .2x Seagate Furecuda ST2000DX002 2TB SSHD Raid 0 .1X Western Digital Black 6TB HDD I know only the pcie addins will be drawing power through the mobo, but is it necessary for me to connect the extra EATX12V1 and EATX12V_1 cables to power this? This is what the manual says. Should i leave the additional EATX12V1 and EATX12V_1 or not?
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I recently assembled my PC with the following specs:https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9RqcFdSo once I had put it together and wired it, my PC case would show any post whatsoever...I tinkered with the front io ports until I got the HDD led at the bottom two pins(looking at it from above,under the GPU) and the case light for the HDD lit up when I flicked the switch on the PSU. I then tinkered with the power led and got it to light up by plugging it two prongs up(so that there is a set of prongs between both). I have also tried plugging the power switch randomly in both position and direction but no matter what, when I power it, and press the power button...nothing happens PLS HELP!!!
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I recently assembled my PC with the following specs:https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9RqcFdSo once I had put it together and wired it, my PC case would show any post whatsoever...I tinkered with the front io ports until I got the HDD led at the bottom two pins(looking at it from above,under the GPU) and the case light for the HDD lit up when I flicked the switch on the PSU. I then tinkered with the power led and got it to light up by plugging it two prongs up(so that there is a set of prongs between both). I have also tried plugging the power switch randomly in both position and direction but no matter what, when I power it, and press the power button...nothing happens PLS HELP!!!
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Greetings I want to connect a case fan to a graphic card directly to its PCB. I have Sapphire 7870 with dual fans.(Image attached) and the fans connected to its PCB has 4 pintouts (Image attached) whereas a regular case fan [LED/or not] has three pinouts (Image attached). Will it work if i splice the case fan wires to the graphic card fan connectors and if it's possible what wires do i need to connect considering the pinout differences and also what are the pros and cons?What about the specification of the fans, do i need to match the specifications of the graphic card fan i.e. DC 12V 0.35Amp?
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First things first, this is my first time modding my car's electrical system so here we go. I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE. I want to add lighting to the foot-wells and under the rear seats (yes it is rice, i know). the way I see it, i can take 2 paths: 1) wire the LED's into the circuit for the dome light, so whenever the dome light is on, all the lights are on 2) wire it into the door switch so whenever a door is open, the corresponding light turns on only problem is I have no idea how to wire this. any ideas on how to wire it or which one will be easier?
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So i am new to electrical wiring and i need some help, so what i want is a wall switch to turn on multiple wall sockets instead of turning on the sockets individually. This is so i don't have to turn each plug on individually for my PC. Can you help me with this? Thanks
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I'm using a Phonics AM55 Mixer to control the audio inputs to my headphones, however i'm not sure where in the wiring to put the headphone amplifier? I will try and describe the setup as best i can the numbers represent sound quality priority. 2) Laptop -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------> 1) PC ------------------------<Through FiiO E17K headphone amp via USB>---> PHONICS AM55 Mixer ------------> Output to Audio Technica ATH-M50X 3) AUX Microphone at front door. ----------------------------------------------------- > Am I better off using the DAC amp on the final signal? 2) Laptop ---------------------------------> 1) PC --------------------------------------> PHONICS AM55 Mixer ----- <Through FiiO E17K headphone amp via 3.5mm>----> Output to Audio Technica ATH-M50X 3) AUX Microphone at front door --> Any input appreciated as I'm quite new to Audio routing. Cheers, Toast Edit: Formatting
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Currently undertaking my first ever build, and like many its an extremely budget build. I got a dg33m06 se0709 from an old Dell Inspiron. Only problem is, I obviously don't have the manual, and I can't work out how to connect the front panel wires. I have these wires: To connect to these pins: Here is where it gets tricky. Every video I've seen, the MOBO has writing on it right next to the pins to help figure it out, but all I've got it this: Can anyone who has experience or knowledge in reading this sort of diagram give me a hand? Much appreciated -
I'll keep it short. There's a TL;DR if you want. 3 years ago I constructed my own PC. In that time, most things have been fine. The graphics card died (random freezes, disconnecting) so I had to buy a new one (for £400 :o) and now something has happened that I need some guidance on. Throughout those 3 years, odd things have happened here and there. 1.The headset would flash on and off occasionally. 2. restarting the PC ALWAYS ensured the hard drive wouldn't be recognised, only turning the computer fully off and on made it recognisable, 3. buying a new, advanced keyboard with more than two USB plugs blue-screened my PC when browsing the internet. Unplugging one of the two USB's stopped the bluescreen. (razer chroma v2) 4. The wireless internet was incredibly unstable. Would cut out once every 30 seconds. Another day it would be crystal clear speeds. Buying a new wireless dongle, switching wireless channels etc. never helped. Throughout this time I never heard any weird noises other than my case vibrating or a slight hissing from my graphics card. Never an issue, however: TL;DR Now, here's the big issue of recent: I heard LOUD buzzing coming from my power supply, last night. It randomly begun while playing Skyrim. I turned off my pc as a result. When attempting to turn it on VIA THE WALL, it caused a surge that tripped half the house. I tried a further 3 times, causing a house-wide trip switch every attempt at turning on the PC at the wall. The next morning, I could turn on the switch at the wall, and my monitor and speakers would light up, but the PC itself won't turn on. What has happened? I assume the power supply is dead, and I will be RMA'ing it. But if it turns out all my parts are damaged, what can I do? If my parts aren't damaged, perhaps it's worth upgrading the lot anyway in case the 3 years have aged anything prematurely? Thoughts?
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Sup folks, Yesterday I made a post about my LED Ford emblem which I'd like to put in my case. The emblem requires +/- 12 volts to work, so I decided to connect it directly to a molex-connector, as I believe the yellow wire is used for 12 volt output (or so I read on the interwebs), so I drew this astonishing schematic before assembling it, and asking you - yes, you! - to check whether this is correct or whether I'm going to break the emblem like a Windsor engine block (Ford joke, haha). Thanks in advance, Cheers TJ PS, I'm a noob at wiring so this might seem like the stupidest request ever, but I'd just want to be sure before I do it, if it means preventing an accidental camp fire PPS, I suck at jokes. Here are the schematic and a puppy
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Hi, I have a generation type 2 white Corsair cable kit (including the 24pin set) for my AX 860 and I'm really confused with the wire opening size. I have a vendor offering an option between 2.5 (2.65mm) and 2.85mm sizes. Which one should I go for ? The only option for Cable Combs I have is from a brand named Munky Mods - Pro Flex series. http://geb.ebay.in/ImportHubViewItem?itemid=162229271605 I am from Mumbai (Bombay), India and this seems like the only option I have and importing it through eBay (India). It is mentioned on the web link that 2.5mm will fit Corsair PSU's but I checked another site and they were recommending the biggest size for the Gen 2 Type Cable Kit. So here I am confused AF! HELP!
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Hello all!, Today I present a issue. So I bought a house recently that has these speakers wired up in the roof in various areas of the house. How ever a intergrater wanted to charge me 8 grand for a system that would let me control them? Now I have a quite a bit of experience with custom electronics and have a DIY Homelab powering a large amount of smart tools. How ever the world of audio is a bit of a unknown to me. Is there a better way? I want to have multiroom audio and be able to easily control music and / or video audio on a room by room basis. I attached pictures of the wiring and one of the speakers in the roof. Looking forward to the suggestions you guys have to offer. And if there is any information lacking just ask. Thanks in Advance, Duke Venator
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Hi,A little bit of background:I had previously converted my original nexus tablet into a clock. I followed a guide on YouTube by cutting the wires from the battery. Then, just connecting the red wires from the battery to a spliced up micro USB cable (red wires). Trimming all other wires. Cut a hole at the back of the case so that the USB port can pass through and connecting straight to the USB charger. The modified clock has been running steadily for more than 5 years now. Aside from power failures which I need to turn it on and turn on the clock app back, no other issues. The battery indicator is 0%, but charging. Direct power, no battery in tablet. So I thought the same technique would work for the galaxy tab s 8.4. Did the same like the nexus tablet. It kind of work, until I noticed the battery is draining. It starts at full charge (100%), then it will slowly drain to 0% and the battery will die. At first I thought I did a bad job at soldering or connnecting the wires, but after a week of trial and error, I finally found the problem. With the tab s, direct connection does not work. The battery appears full, then slowly charges down. The tablet does not detect a charge, even when it is actually connected to the wall.Does anyone know how to fix this problem?One method I did think was rewiring the battery csbles so that it loops to itself. Red to red, black to black, without the spliced micro USB cable. Then power will come directly from the micro USB port. I noticed that if I connect the charger to the port, there is a charge. But since I have two power sources going to the tablet, connecting through USB port will cause the tablet to turn off. Maybe overload or something.I don't think removing the battery connection and just using the micro USB port port for direct power supply will solve the problem as I did try to just connect it while removing the power source which is attached directly to the battery. It did register a charge, but it can't turn on. -
Are all +12V pins from the PSU (6+2 & 4+4) created equal? Rather, for a single 8 wire connector, as long as the 4 ground pins on the PSU are wired to the 4 ground pins on the CPU and the 4 +12V pins on the PSU are wired to the 4 +12V pins on the CPU, does it matter if the wires don't follow the specific, factory pinout? Wall of text below. I'm creating a set of custom PSU cables for my new/first PC build in a Louqe Ghost S1 with Corsair SF600. I've traced all wires and verified the pinout with multiple other sources (everything agrees with this post). I've completed my GPU cables and made them exactly the same pinout as the stock wires, putting the twists/crossovers behind the PSU (out of sight, out of mind). I think I can hide the crossovers in 24-pin cable behind the GPU cable connections on the PSU side. Where I'm running into the dilemma is the 8 pin CPU cable; due to the orientation of my components if I follow the stock pinout there will be a big ugly twist front and center, no matter where i put it, instead of a showcase of neatly sleeved and organized wires. Hence my original question. I am fairly certain that it won't matter as these are power delivery and not signal wires. My guess is that they are probably pinned in the easiest way to split up the stock black ribbons at each connector, but I have never done this before and don't want to fry any components for small vanity. I have searched all over and the closest answer I could find was a thread where someone talking about how the custom cables they ordered did not match the pinout of their stockcables. They were told by the creator of said cables that they will work just fine but it was an old post that died out before ever giving a solid answer. Work preview below as tribute. MDPCX Shade 19, Platinum, and Vanilla Sands, will post full build pics once complete
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Hi, folks! I have a somehow really dumb question, so thanks in advance for possible help. First of all i have a Corsair SF450 80 PLUS GOLD ( https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/SF-Series™-80-PLUS-Gold-Power-Supplies/p/CP-9020104-NA ) psu. Since the sata power cable shipped with the unit is too short to reach my ssd in my specific case, it came to my mind, that i could probably use an extension cable. I already have cable extensions from cablemod ( https://store.cablemod.com/product/cablemod-pro-modmesh-cable-extension-kit/ ) lying around. So my question is: Is it possible to use the "6-pin PCI-e extension cable" plugged in directly to the psu sata/pata aux 6pin power outlet and the other end into the sata power cable which came with the psu ? It would work physically (i tried that already), but i have no idea if it is a good idea and i dont want to fry my ssd or start a fire with my psu. Thanks in advance and have a nice day. Yours truly, Zitronent
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Before I start, here are the relevant parts to my issue: Gigabyte Z390 UD motherboard CoolerMaster ML240L RGB Liquid Cooler Fractal Design R6 Blackout Case Manual links: Cooler Master ML240L https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1452876/Cooler-Master-Masterliquid-Ml240l-Rgb.html?page=13#manual Fractal Design R6 Blackout Case (Attached) The wiring diagram from Cooler Master for this cooler is lackluster to say the least, it shows that the pump needs to be connected to the CPU_FAN header, while the actual fans need to use the supplied splitter and be connected to the CPU_AUX header (or equivalent), while all the RGB/PWM 4 pin headers all go to the supplied PWM controller from the ML240L box. I have two questions: 1. Does it matter if I connect the splitter fans to any SYS_FAN header on the board instead? The Gigabyte z390 UD only has one CPU_FAN header, and 3 SYS_FAN headers, and my case will have 5 fans total after the ML240L is installed with the 3 existing case fans. This creates a bit of an issue with header availability, I need 4 headers, but only have 3 for fan support. I could use splitters on the case fans to reduce the amount of headers used, but I don't want to wait for them to arrive from amazon, but I could just leave one unplugged in the meantime, and add it when the splitter arrives. 2. There is a PWM controller mounted inside the back panel of this case. The manual for the case instructs that the power for the controller is to be supplied via SATA cable (there was one nearby, so that was easy), and that the soldered connection from the controller be plugged into the CPU_FAN header. I have attached an image of the specific page in the R6 manual with the schematic for the PWM controller/fan hub. There is a total of 6 lead wires on the Cooler Master ML240L assembly, two from each fan, and two from the pump block. Here is what I want to do: Plug the fan hub connector into the CPU_FAN header, power the fan hub with sata (these are a given), then I want to plug all the Power connectors for the fans into the left side (3 pin) headers on the fan hub, as well as the block pump, and all the rgb/pwm 4 pin connectors into the right side, hopefully bypassing the need for the PWM controller that came with the cooler kit. OR I could use the PWM controller and use the fan hub simply for the fans, and the block pump (3 pin). Hopefully I explained my thoughts clearly enough. If anybody can confirm if what I'm thinking will work, or can help direct me otherwise it would be much appreciated. Thanks! d29f080e-6bef-44b5-a5fb-9e02b8767a29.pdf
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I'm making a Bluetooth speaker, and i want to add a switch to turn it on and off. But I don't know how xD I'm leaving the schematic if anyone could help i would be appreciated! I don't know if this is off topic but i hope to find someone to help me.
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I bought a Corsair H150i Pro RGB a few days ago, and got it on Thursday, only to find that the frame was bent so much that I couldnt screw it into my PC case. I ordered a replacement from Amazon, and it just arrived a few hours ago. When going to install it just now, I noticed that the 3pin fan header coming from the pump only had one wire, instead of the 2 wires that were on the one I'm sending back. Can anyone explain this?
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Hello, I have recently bought a new motherboard (Asus Strix B450-F) and it has only 4 pin RGB headers on it. I also bought a Deepcool Castle 240 the RGB cable connects to a 3 pin RGB header. Does anyone know of any adapters or anything that I could buy to get it to work? I have also attached image of the cable the cooler came with.
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Hello, I just finished building my computer a little over a couple of weeks ago now and I was wondering if anyone knows where the USB header for the Corsair H100i cooler goes on this mobo? I was able to plug in all the other headers for the cooler and it seems like the water pump is working as well as the fans. The only thing not plugged in is the usb header which I assume controls the fan speeds. Anyone else have any experience with this combo? I want to turn down the fan speed of the fans on my reservoir because they're just so freaking loud. I have no access to control those fan speeds, I'm assuming until I can get that usb header in. Thanks and Happy New Year!.....hopefully monkaS -
Currently making a custom home sound system using hi-res car audio components with homemade speaker enclosures! I've gotten to the point now where I just gotta hook the Amp to a source and was thinking of using my motherboards onboard audio since it's got 8 Channels and outputs 24bit/192Khz, but I'm unsure where the outputs are... I use an ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX... Outputting to a Pioneer GM-DX975 Amp, 2x Pioneer TS-Z65CH Speakers, and 2x passive crossovers followed by their respective tweeters. So where I plug in boys? -
Hey yall. I'm bored and wanted to take my girlfriend's old Nook HD+ tablet and make it into a rudimentary android-running device, but i wanted to desolder the old 30-pin socket on the inside and replace it with a 5-pin usb type-B socket. However, I'm not sure the best way to go about this. There are a lot of pins that I don't really care about, and i know all i need are 5VDC, D+, D-, ID, and GND. But when there are 5+ GND pins and 2 5VDC pins, how can i find out which ones to use? or can i splice all identical wires together and solder them to one pin of the corresponding type? Could i do some disaster like this? or will i have to trace the wires to find which ones actually matter? Most of the pins (blank and some ground) are meant for the hdmi adapter for it, and that doesnt concern me. Thank you in advance for the input
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I have an antec df500rgb case that comes with three of their own rgb fans. I want to wire the fans to my motherboard(msi x370 gaming pro carbon) that only has 1 led fan header I am not sure how to do all of this as I've only built 2 computers before, do i need a fan hub and will it work with antecs fans or not
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So... I am currently in Year 11 of Secondary School and I am building a skateboard that generates electricity when it is used that can then be used to provided electrical assistance for my project. Any suggestions on how do wire this us and what components I will need? Cheers UwU
