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Showing results for tags 'win10'.
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My father recently updated his iTunes to the latest version and it will not start anymore. Running as an administrator doesn't help We tried restarting about twenty times ("Did you turn it off and on again?" "Yes.") We tried uninstalling and reinstalling iTunes about five times We made a new user account on the PC and it will not start there either The 32-bit version doesn't work either. Tried booting in Safe Mode Tried booting in Safe Mode with Networking (to download another version of iTunes) Going back to previous versions of iTunes doesn't help The narcissistic Apple support dicks think he should get a whole new PC. Any ideas? -
already tried 1607 and 1703 version 1607 no pstate option (max nor min) 1703 only max
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Hey everyone! So since yesterday I´ve been having someweird issues with my mouse, mostly when playing games/ when I´m on my desktop. I have a Roccat Kone Pure Optical mouse, which is only about two months old, with completely up-to-date drivers. My problem is that when I´m in a game, my mouse is all laggy. It´s stuttering all the time, as if the sensor was broken, which it clearly isn´t, since it doens´t do these things when I´m just in chrome or something. In addition to this, just hovering over icons on my desktop is painfully slow, as if my CPU was overwhelmed or something. (It shouldn´t be since it´s a watercooled i7-6700k) Switching back to my old Razer Deathadder kinda helps when playing games, though something still feels weir, as if my sensitivity suddenly got reduced. If any of you know a solution to this or have had similar problems, please let me know, all help is apprechiated!
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It's probably a graphic driver issue. I've had two hangs culminating in a failed auto restart (thanks windows 10) After reverting to older AMD drivers in order to avoid an issue in overwatch that the devs are too lazy to fix. Both hangs happened while a game was running. Once with the cod ww2 beta and once with warframe. After the second crash, I got a filed startup error. I ran chkdsk (and let it fully complete), restarted, and now I have an inaccessable boot device error with every restart.It's worth noting, both of these crashes happened after installing the cod ww2 beta, which is known to have quite a few bugs. Things I've tried/know:MSI krait sli z97 moboWD caviar blue 1tb driveThis is actually Windows 10 enterprise/insider- System restore failed- Last known good configuration isn't available- I can't boot into safe mode- chkdsk /r returned no faults- drive is visible in bios- ahci mode is enabled- all cables have been checked/replaced, and are secure.- All hardware aside from drive is confirmed to be working correctly.- GPU is currently removed, for some reason it won't display the BIOS screen(This has always been an issue with This mobo/gpu, and likely not related to my current issue.,
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My HP Spectre x360 laptop with Windows 10 has been giving me Wi-Fi problems for more than a week now. It happened suddenly when I tried browsing the web and websites weren't loading, so I decided to reset the router but the problem persisted. I have tried EVERYTHING and then some. The problem seems to be mainly with my home Wi-Fi.. 98% of the time it will not connect at all or it will connect and say "No Internet, Secured" but on the few rare occasions that it does, webpages won't load at all or they'll load extremely slow. And when it does connect, it doesn't stay for more than 10 minutes. Now, when I connect to my mobile hotspot it seems to work fine and much more stable than my home Wi-Fi. Although, occasionally some webpages will not load or it'll randomly disconnect from my hotspot. In complete frustration I decided to factory reset... and of course, the problem has not been fixed. Also, many other devices in my house using the same Wi-Fi have been working as usual with no interruptions including other laptops, ps4, TV, phones, etc. I have never had any connectivity issues until now. PLS HELP I BEG OF THEE!!!
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Hey, I realise this problem may have been covered before but I am having a hard time finding anything on it, or rather anything pertaining to my specific case. I also apologize if I've put this in the wrong place, I wasn't sure which board to post on.If you know exactly what I'm talking about (I... kind of don't...) and know where I might find my answer please feel free to simply point me in that direction. Hear me out first, though.I'm fully upgrading my PC, and by that I mean I am replacing everything except for my hard drives and PSU. I'd like to format my SSD and do a clean install of Windows onto it when it's in the new PC. As far as I know I should be able to do that without having to buy a new copy of Windows as my copy is attached to my Microsoft Account. If not... I'll buy a new copy I guess. Hopefully I won't have to, but it's not something I won't stomach for this new PC to become a reality, lol.Anyway, there is a bunch of other stuff on my SSD along with the OS. Some games, docs, music, all my mail, other programs and stuff I don't necessarily need, etc...What I want to do is move all of that stuff onto my HDD (which has more than enough space to hold all of it) and leave ONLY the OS on the SSD, so that I can format it, then do a clean install (from a USB) after I put it in the new PC.I guess I'm asking if this is at all possible and whether I will have to use some kind of backup program and then restore the files on the new PC or if I can just copy stuff from the SSD to the HDD manually while leaving the OS alone, and in that case which folders should I not touch?I understand this seems like a simple problem, but I'm really worried about just moving a bunch of stuff and having it not work properly, or moving stuff I shouldn't, or doing something like moving the drivers for my current GPU (is that even possible??) and having them around where I don't need them.I'm sure you can tell, I'm just very inexperienced and while I can confidently build a PC, all this software and disk management stuff leaves me lost in the woods.Any help would be super appreciated! I'll be happy to provide any more information needed. -
Hello, I'm new here and that's my first post, anyhow, I have a YouTube channel and I use Adobe premiere, Photoshop, etc as graphic designer college student. I have an Asus ROG gx551gl Ram 16GB (I don't know how to overock) Gtx 950m 2GB Core i7 4720HQ 1TB HDD 265 SSD 6 pounds around 3kg A quite heavy laptop that has issues with sound, (goes higher by it self after pausing a video or music or anything) - help if you know how solve it! Anyhow, aside from that I want to upgrade, and I really loved the surface product, Because they're high end, and built well, but! (Linus voice tune) I had a very bad windows experince so far and issues with my machine. I don't game, I have Xbox for that but I do work and design and create... So I want your advice on my next device A surface product with the horrible windows (I'm afraid) or Going to be on the apple side with a MacBook Pro? (It's stable my friends says) And I'm concerned about the consumer reports as well for the surface product. Budget $2000 max Goal: light powerful laptop, with good build quality. Suit a student and graphic designer that works 27/789 days a week. I'm all ears ,, and thanks. - Aorex. -
Hi All, I just recently updated to Windows 10 Fall Creators Update via clean windows install. Does anyone know how to re enable this? Now, if I click on the sound icon in the taskbar, I get the classic mixer
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My windows 8 is very unresponsive, I decided for a fresh reinstall of windows 8 after backing up my files there. However it seems that bootcamp cannot detect the windows OS anymore. Disk utilities show the partition normaly. I am currently downloading the Windows 10 ISO file required for bootcamp. 1. What do I do with the partition (the original windows 8 OS), all the files I need are already backed up and I don't mind losing the files there now. 2. Should I then format the partition (in that case what format? FAT?) or should I just delete the partition entirely? -
Hello Everybody i've just changed my HD4830 to a 9800GTX+ and my problem is my resolution set to 1280x1024 but my monitor is 1440x900 i go to control panel but there's no such resolution but it shows even 2560x1440 (max vga res tho) 240Hz im using a DVI to VGA adapter, but when i use the same combo with my Radeon there's no problem. (win10)
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Hey guys,so basically my sytem was doing fine until last week or so. I was able to run my favourite games stable at high framerates with an average low cpu use and high gpu use like you would expect it ( Overwatch was running at constant 250-300 fps on 1080p low). Now since last week something has changed that without me doing anything. As soon as i start any 3D application my CPU usage spikes up to constant 100% without reason. My GPU is completely bottlenecked and runs at 40-50% max. Both temps are fine however. In games like Overwatch or BF1 i am constantly getting the bad connectivity symbol and the games feel a bit laggy and my shots are not connecting sometimes. I already checked for background programs to hurt the cpu but it is only the games that are taking like 90 percent of the cpu load. Minimizing the Witcher 3 and trying to maximize it again even caused my system to shut down. Both the gpu and cpu do not get thermal throttled and games use all 4 cores.So here is what i already tried to fix this: installing old nvidia drivers, resetting both overclocks, reset bios, clean intstalation windows, set priorities to low and high, change compability mode, set max prerendered frames to 1, uninstall gpu and cpu in the device manager, used driver booster to update the driversMy specs: i5 6600k OC to 4,2 Ghz, gtx 1070 oc, 16GB RAM, Win 10 ProIf you can think of anything that causes this weird problem please let me know (and please dont tell me that the games are just maximizing my cpu potential and that this is all fine, there is definetly a performance loss)Thanks is advance -
Hey all... like allways when I'm getting in trouble with something I come here where all of the biggest brains stand my problem now is about Icons(Games,Programs) when I first install them I can see the Logo/Photo/Icon but after some boots fresh or moving to other folder the logo of the installed file turn to like a white page icon its not with all of them but some.. even Asus aura and corsair link don't show me the picture now only a white page... but important to say its a working program after all without any problem I'm using windows 10 if any info will be needed I can suplly it Thx to all and best regards hope to hear only good things ...
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I just bought a Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2 PCIe SSD to upgrade my system. I've been trying to do a clean install of Windows 10 Home 64bit on the new m.2 SSD to use as a boot drive, but my system does not find the drive. The m.2 ssd does not show in Bios, in windows, or during the windows install process. I've activated the m.2 slot in bios. I have the most recent Bios update. As far as I can tell from the MB manual it should be compatible (though I might be wrong in this). My last guess is that the drive was DOA. I have ended up installing windows on a secondary drive so that I can get help. My system is: MSI x99s gaming 7 Intel i7 5820k Crucial DDR4 4x4gb 2133mhz Samsung 960 EVO 500gb m.2 MSI geforce GTX 980 4gb Corsair RM1000 Motherboard manual attached E7885v3.0.pdf
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Microsoft has acknowledge that their Creator's Update build released in Spring has caused some games to stutter. They have released a preview build for Windows Insider fast ring users, to test it out and see if this beta build has fixed their game issues or not. They encourage those who are in the Windows Insider fast ring program, to give them feedback, so they can evaluate, and see if the fix needs to be included in their next update build or not. http://wccftech.com/spring-creators-update-stuttering-games/ -
This is usually a good thing, specially if you just install Win10, the OS make sure to install the bests drivers that it can for your hardware. However in this case it's a bad thing, i don't like the Conexant SmartAudio HD driver that Asus assign to this laptop (Asus K501UX), i actually prefer the Microsoft Audio Driver (Win10 integrated audio driver) so I uninstall the Conexant driver and reset the PC, as expected the system boot with the Microsoft driver, however during that session Windows Update (i think) download the Conexant driver and was set to install the next time i restart the PC... Is there anyway to prevent this? I can't find a way trough the Windows Update settings...
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Basic troubleshooting issue: roughly since the time the fall creator's update (1709) was installed on my Win10 desktop, the display will not wake up sometimes. However, here's the circumstances: 1) Asrock X370 Taichi BIOS was updated to 3.20 around the same time 2) Power plan is set to never put the desktop to sleep, but display is set to sleep after 30 minutes. Hard disk also set to turn off after 30 minutes. Note I am using the High Performance Plan, not the Ryzen-specific plan. I've been using the HPP without issue until recently. 3) All USB input peripherals such as mouse and keyboard are set to wake up the computer 4) Display wakes up fine after the 30 minute timer. The failure to wake up is not consistent...but if it does happen, it's always after the system's been sitting idle for hours. 5) Two displays connected, neither show image. 6) No issue with reset, screen comes back, nothing in windows events that appears to indicate an issue. No issues ever during active use. 7) 'Fast Startup' has already been disabled Specs: Asrock X370 Taichi board, Ryzen 1700, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3. I'm like 98% convinced it's software, but I'm not sure what else to try save completely disabling the display from turning off in the power plan and leaving the system alone for a couple of days. Any other suggestions?
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Hi all. So, I have this weird problem: usually, my PC boot time used to be - from power to desktop - 5 to 10 seconds long at maximum, thanks to my Samsung EVO SSD. In the past 2 months, I experienced some occasional long boot time (at least 10 minutes, but everytime below 15), that become more and more frequently. I was running Win 10 Pro 1703, latest updates, with Bitdefender Free. I noticed, after switching to avast! Free Antivirus, that these long boots became the rule: now they show everytime I power on my PC. In detail, the sequence is this: I start the PC, MSI Logo don't show up (FastBoot enabled), than the computer stucks on Win10 logo, with the loading animation perfectly spinning all the time without any hiccups. I notice that my USB devices (mouse, keyboard, XONE controller) are without power during this time. After 10 minutes or more, I hear my hard disks spinning, the HDD LED on, and power returns on USB devices. PC goes to desktop in less than 5 seconds, and it's working as usual. Basically, a boot phase that used to last 1 or 2 seconds (USB devices powered off and then turned on), now lasts too long, but after that PC works perfectly fine. I already tried to power on my PC without any peripheral attached, but the problem showed up the same. TL;DR: extremely long Win10 logo boot screen, USB devices are powered off during this process that lasts at least 10 minutes, than they light up, HDDs start spinning and PC goes to desktop as usual. My rig below.
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Silly, potentially simple questions: I have two 5 TB drives running in two-way mirror configuration using Windows Storage Spaces (aka software RAID 1). If I added a third drive, is it possible to get a RAID 5 equivalent using WSS? I need more space but I don't want to give up the redundancy. If it's possible, would I need to break the two-way mirror, or could WSS transition directly from software RAID 1 to something different? Finally, does WSS care about using different size drives? Ex, could I get a 6 TB drive instead of a 5 TB?
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As the title says I am very conspicous about this process eating almost exactly 20% of my CPU all the time. Tried manually deleting it but it was impossible due to the fact the right after I killed this process it restarted doing the exact same thing. Any help would be welcome as I don't want to feed someones mining dreams
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So I installed windows 10 creators update a while back (first time I have updated my system in months) its ran 24/7 except for occasional restart for about 6 months however less than 24 hours after installing the new update my computer crashed and since then bluetooth will not connect to any device even though it says it available and can see devices (though the share up as generic terms like input device for an xbox one controller and communications device for my galaxy note 5 as well as audio device for my bluetooth headphones) it will give me messages like device never responded or try connecting to the device again. Win 10 says there's no issues with bluetooth I've tried re-installing drivers troubleshoot nothing works. So right now all I get out of it is able to detect devices and be seen by other devices. I've also had issues with wifi adapter needing to be reset almost every day. (Again this was never an issue before the update and before the crash). So that being said I am stuck I don't know if this is windows 10 issue or if the bluetooth/wifi is bad on my motherboard, the whole system is only 6 months on and the mobo is asus maximus hero vii alpha. Is it possible for just bluetooth/wifi to fail/be failing on the mobo or is it just an OS thing. Also I have this USB root hub thing on my usb device list which I have no idea what that is (also displayed after updating).
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Just wondering anyone here did a clean install of Windows 10 Creators Update, that's build 1703. After the installation, the initial setup before getting to the desktop the first time, is cringe level over 9000!
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Hi, ive got windows10 on my pc installed. (Microsoft Windows 10 Home (x64) Build 15063.413 (RS2)) now i noticed when i got me some coffe, that when i came back my cpu was having one thread on max usage. so my cpu was on 25%, when i touch the mouse or press any key the cpu usage returns back to ~zero. I then ran the observation and waited for it to happen and it shows that "System" is doing this. Pls have a look at the etl file. It starts exactly after 240seconds not pressing a key or moving the mouse, i started the capturing with the last keystroke and from then it ran 240seconds and the system started calculating... can someone give me advice? as you can see, its like no drive usage. no internet usage as i checked with my onboard program, but also checked the lan port usage via my router. so what exactly is my pc doing? its not defragging, ive got that disabled. also the prefetch or any other stuff i should see as "svchost.exe" no? happy for any help =) thx, Tia
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Hi, so I've scoured google attempting to resolve this on my own for about a week now, and while other people have seen this issue as well, no one elses solution has worked for me. I've tried registry edits, scouring through bios settings, and even did a fresh windows install and to no avail. But anyways, Windows 10 registers that I have all 32 gb installed, but reserves 16 gb of it for hardware. My system is as follows: Boot Drive 250GB Samsung 960 EVO M.2 SSD Ryzen 1700 (no overclocking and on a Deep Cool Captain EX 360mm AIO) Asus Prime x370 PRO 32GB Corsair LPX DDR4 at 2400mhz (running at 2133mhz) XFX HD 7950 Core Edition (old I know, its the next thing to upgrade) Corsair GS 800 watt psu Windows 10 64 bit, on the creators update. Desperately need help, and will provide any more info I need to.
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My computer has a 525GB SSD and a 3TB HDD. I have windows and Chrome on the SSD. Whenever I install a game or something from Chrome it installs onto the SSD. Is there a way to change this so it defaultly (or asks preferably) downloads to the HDD? Thanks. -
I made this question again , call me a f*cktard , braindead dipsh*t , but i pls i need one more time to be helped with this situ for clarification purposes . I will make my own pc , the case is nzxt 340s elite , and as u can tell it doesnt support optical drives . So to download the windows I will have to drag them down to my usb from microsofts website , insert them in my pc and then give the correct key for the rights of use. Will buying windows DSP CD version http://www.skroutz.gr/s/7299936/Microsoft-Windows-10-Home-x64-Eng-DSP.html just to take the key code , work? In essence , i buy the cd version of windows , throw away the cd and just take key inside ( if there is, cuz i dont even know how these sh*t work) and put the key when it asks me for.
