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I just built a PC and I grab my broken laptop and grab the HDD, the HDD is still working so i plug in to my new PC it detect the HDD but it's not allow me to copy it's data and when I try use CMD to access the HDD it says "access is denied"

I just build a PC and I can't turn it off to get out from bios it keep turn back on is this supposed to happen, do I need to plug it out from wall socket to turn it off help.mp4

I installed the power supply with all the cables l, the motherboard LED's turn on but when I click the power button it won't turn on.

I build my PC a few days ago, and it worked fine for about a day but then froze out of nowhere. I restarted it, and then the VGA light turned on and remained on with no display, sometimes having the boot light on at the same time. I’ve tried checking all the cables, I reseated the GPU, replaced the GPU with another one (the fans and rgb turned on with both), tried the GPU’s in a separate PC which worked fine, swapped hdmi cables, swapped the pcie cables, and even replaced the entire motherboard with no avail. The on-board graphics work fine. I plugged my hdmi cable into the mobo and I can actually use it, indicating that the hdmi cable works fine. My theory is that it is some sort of cable or PSU issue, but I just can’t figure out what it is. specs: CPU: Intel i5 13600k Mobo: ROG Strix z790-A Gaming WiFi D4 Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 2 x 16gb 3600MHz CL18 GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 FTW3 SSD: Samsung 980 Pro 2TB PSU: Corsair RM1000x

PC was fine yesterday, but now does not have output. The fans spin, but neither HDMI or DP work. Specs: R5 3600 24gb ram 500gb ssd Rtx 3060 I've also tried a different GPU 1650S, but it also does not work. It spins, but no output. The cable and monitor are fine. I plugged the cable and monitor into my laptop and that worked fine. I haven't tried reseating RAM yet. That's next. Does anyone have anything else I can try? Solved: reseating RAM a seems to fix it. I removed all but stick 1. Then I put all back and it didn't work. I then only did 1 and 3. It worked. I did all 1 2 3 and 4 and that did not work. I did 1 2 3 and that worked. And then I tried all 1 2 3 4 and now it all seems to work. I don't know what caused the issue, maybe there was an update or something last night. Thanks for all of the suggestions!!

Hey, so I ripped my CPU (Ryzen 9 3900X) out of its socket the other day when trying to swap the cooler. I then spent two days trying to separate the two (it was like I used cement instead of thermal paste) and bend the pins back in place, eventually it came off after I heated the cooler up with a hair dryer and applied A LOT of twisty force. I've put the CPU through hell to get it off so I honestly don't expect it to have survived. After plugging it back in and giving it power, the lights on the motherboard turn on (Asrock SteelSeries X570) but the power button does absolutely nothing. Not even case fans spin. Behaviour is the same with and without the CPU installed. I'm wondering if this means the motherboard is dead as well? I have a spare system on the same platform but am not willing to try swapping parts because I need *something* for my job. Aside from this I am also cautious of damaging parts through association (or also ripping the CPU out of the donor system's socket too...). I'm compiling a list of parts for a new build and was thinking of just taking the plunge to upgrade everything, but a part of me wants to salvage what I can. I've seen similar posts in the past with mixed success (I'm surprised its anything higher than 0%). Is it a safe bet to assume that both CPU and mobo are dead? Thanks :)

For the past few months I've had an issue where my PC just refuses to go to sleep. I've been troubleshooting this issue since it started, I've exhausted all the fixes and troubleshooting I could find and It's still not fixed. The last thing I tried was a clean boot, and while it seemed to work initially and I could put the PC to sleep, it failed to sleep the second time I tried and since then Sleep has worked, so it's spotty at best. I've also had a few instances where when I try to just shutdown the PC it does the same thing as putting to sleep. Other than the issues sleeping and occasional shutdown, my PC runs perfectly. I can work, game, watch videos etc. with no issues, BSODs or stutters. I'm near the point of just reinstalling Windows, but as the Repair install and clean boot didn't fix the issue, I'm beginning to worry it's Hardware related, not Software. I'm really hoping someone can shed some light or maybe guide me in the right direction. An Update: I just switched all my startup programs back on and tried to restart my PC to apply the changes and it actually froze restarting and since it was restarting the monitors stayed on and I DID get a BSOD. The Stop Code was Driver Power State Failure. My PC Specs: Optiplex 9020 BIOS Version A25 4x4 RAM i7 4790 Non-K Zotac 1070 ti Mini EVGA 750w 80 Plus Gold The Symptoms: When trying to put PC to sleep the monitors will stop receiving signal properly, the secondary HDD spins down, the screens turn off completely, but the fans for the CPU/case/GPU remain spinning and the SSD/HDD activity light continues to flicker as if it's trying to process something. Eventually after about 5 minutes the fans will start to kick up a bit faster, the HDD will audibly spin back up and then after a few seconds the PC just turns off instead of sleeping. It has actually done this a few times when simply trying to do a regular shutdown as well. No blue screen or anything. Each time this happens I get an Event viewer Kernel-Power ID 41 as well as an Error 6008. Most recently I've been receiving an event error 2545 and today several nvlddmkm ID 0. Though the later seems unrelated as the issue has been around longer than that event. I've also just today had an issue where when trying to enter Safe Mode, the PC shuts itself down right before I can select a Safe Mode option. Event 41 - System - Provider [ Name] Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power [ Guid] {331c3b3a-2005-44c2-ac5e-77220c37d6b4} EventID 41 Version 8 Level 1 Task 63 Opcode 0 Keywords 0x8000400000000002 - TimeCreated [ SystemTime] 2023-08-26T18:55:25.6200253Z EventRecordID 4077 Correlation - Execution [ ProcessID] 4 [ ThreadID] 8 Channel System Computer Rosies-Dream - Security [ UserID] S-1-5-18 - EventData BugcheckCode 0 BugcheckParameter1 0x0 BugcheckParameter2 0x0 BugcheckParameter3 0x0 BugcheckParameter4 0x0 SleepInProgress 4 PowerButtonTimestamp 133375496378782752 BootAppStatus 0 Checkpoint 0 ConnectedStandbyInProgress false SystemSleepTransitionsToOn 1 CsEntryScenarioInstanceId 0 BugcheckInfoFromEFI false CheckpointStatus 0 CsEntryScenarioInstanceIdV2 0 LongPowerButtonPressDetected false Error 6008 - System - Provider [ Name] EventLog - EventID 6008 [ Qualifiers] 32768 Version 0 Level 2 Task 0 Opcode 0 Keywords 0x80000000000000 - TimeCreated [ SystemTime] 2023-08-27T01:37:10.7789011Z EventRecordID 4352 Correlation - Execution [ ProcessID] 0 [ ThreadID] 0 Channel System Computer Rosies-Dream Security - EventData 9:33:55 PM ‎8/‎26/‎2023 22872 E707080006001A001500210037007402E707080000001B000100210037007402600900003C000000010000006009000001000000B00400000000000000000000 Binary data: In Words 0000: 000807E7 001A0006 00210015 02740037 0010: 000807E7 001B0000 00210001 02740037 0020: 00000960 0000003C 00000001 00000960 0030: 00000001 000004B0 00000000 00000000 In Bytes 0000: E7 07 08 00 06 00 1A 00 ç....... 0008: 15 00 21 00 37 00 74 02 ..!.7.t. 0010: E7 07 08 00 00 00 1B 00 ç....... 0018: 01 00 21 00 37 00 74 02 ..!.7.t. 0020: 60 09 00 00 3C 00 00 00 `...<... 0028: 01 00 00 00 60 09 00 00 ....`... 0030: 01 00 00 00 B0 04 00 00 ....°... 0038: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 ........ I've tried the following: Reinstalling RAM Testing RAM with OCCT Testing GPU with OCCT Testing CPU with OCCT Testing PSU with OCCT SFC /scannow Error Checking SSD C drive Turning off Fast Boot Resetting Windows 10 Power Options to Default Malware/Rootkit Scan with Kaspersky and Malwarebytes Fresh Windows 10 Install/Repair (all apps and documents kept) Repairing/Reinstalling various drivers (audio, GPU, usb devices) Clean Booting Running various programs, games etc. without finding anything consistently causes the issue.

These are my specs: I'm changing from 2x4gb ddr4 2666 ram from hyperx; The new one is crucial ballistix 2x8gb 3200. Whatever I do I cannot get the sistem to post with the new ram, so I can't even get in the bios to check stuff. This is what I checked/tried so far. -ram is compatible with the motherboard -updated bios -cleared CMOS -tried with both new stick -tried with only one at the time -tried different ram slots, both when using only one and when using both -when I put back the old ram in the same way as it was before is post and everything is normal. I know both sticks may be DOA, but the probability is very low. Is there something else I could try?

Hello, I just build my PC and I ran into weird problem. I have MSI B650 Carbon wifi board with Ryzen 5 7600X, for CPU cooling I've got Be Quiet Pure Loop 280mm. When I start my PC all of my fans don't work (both of AIO fans and case fans), I tried to change their configuration it the BIOS but it didn't do anything. I tried plugging fan cables into diffrent connectors but it also didn't help (CPU_FAN1 and all SYS_FAN do not work). I tried changing BIOS version to the new one and to the oldest one (on the MSI page it says that 7600X is compatible with oldest version) and still nothing, taking my CPU out putting it back also didn't help (pins are not bend and CPU looks fine). Am I missing something or is my motherboard broken ? I don't think it's fans fault as none of them work and all of my case fans used to work just fine in my previous build (AIO is brand new).

I have a high end PC running a 6900XT, Ryzen 9 5900X and 64gb of ram, playing on a 165hz 1440p display. I can NOT get RL to stop dropping frames or smooth out the frame timing. I've reinstalled the game, swapped back to the steam version, dropped all my settings to low, enabled/disabled v-sync, enabled/disabled AMD free sync. I've enabled FPS limiters and disabled it. I feel like I've tried EVERYTHING but I can't get the game to smooth out. Any help would be awesome.

I have a head-scratcher here. Multiple games (Dual Universe, Baldur's Gate III, WH40k Darktide), Discord, occasionally other applications will simply crash. Most of the time, event viewer shows nothing. I have multiple other machines that are less powerful and run all these fine, as well. Specs: OS: Win 11 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Build 22621) Processor: i9-13900K @ Default settings Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB DDR5-6000 32GBx2 (XMP I enabled @ 6000) Motherboard: ROG STRIX Z790-E GAMING WIFI (BIOS ver.1202) PSU: Corsair AX1200i (1200 Watt, 80 PLUS PLATINUM) GPU1: Nvidia GeForce RTX 3090 Ti Founders Edition (Driver version 536.99) GPU2: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 FTW GAMING Drive: Crucial 2TB - CT2000P3SSD8 Troubleshooting tried: - I've tried to rule out software/os/configuration by disabling all other applications, running windows services only, and both refreshing and reinstalling a clean version of windows, multiple times. I did have a 980 Pro that ended up crapping out and the current install is on the Crucial drive. Problem remains. - CrystalDisk said drives were good. - Memtest86 on RAM, multiple passes on default settings, multiple passes on parallel setting with extra tests enabled, 0 errors - Removing all extra peripherals - Full GPU driver uninstall/reinstall - Using only 1 GPU - Swapping to different GPU (EVGA GeForce 3080 FTW Ultra) - Default BIOS settings - Temperatures all seem fine. I've likely forgotten some of the steps I've taken at this point. I haven't swapped motherboard (don't have another), though it doesn't feel like any of the mobo issues I've ran into in the past. Same for power supply, and their app reported no issues. I'm usually good at solving problems but this one has me at my wit's end. I humbly ask for assistance. Thank you.

Hi everyone, I'm new to the LTT Forums so hopefully this is an ok place to post. I currently own a Razer Blade 15 Advanced with an i7-10875H and an RTX 3070 (95W TDP) and I've had it for about two and a half years. About every 6 months, I open it up and clean the dust out of the fans and the heatsink using compressed air, but I have noticed recently that the CPU is idling at about 70 to 80 degrees Celsius even after most of the dust is removed (at least from what I can see). The GPU idles around 50 degrees which I'm not worried about. When I first bought it, it was idling at around 30 to 50 degrees and cleaning it would help a bit, but over time it still seems to be getting hotter. I don't live in a dusty environment and the ambient temperature is always around 20 degrees at the moment. The temperature is not currently a problem unless I load it (and then I just figure it's a laptop so I'm expecting throttling and 95 to 100 degrees anyway), but it is currently winter where I live and it might become more of a problem in summer. Should I be looking to replace the thermal paste? I am comfortable with doing so, but I would rather avoid doing it if it isn't necessary since laptop components are particularly delicate. My laptop is also my only computer. Are there any other ways I can decrease my temperatures while still maintaining performance? I have seen that some solutions involve undervolting, but I have little experience with altering voltages and clock speeds. At least from what I can see, there is not a huge amount of information about this online, and what is there appears dependent on specific hardware and situations. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hello, recently been having an issue with my keyboard… it tends to throw a code on my motherboard saying “B4” which is I think a hot usb code …. But I’m not sure how to fix the issue … when I boot my computer sometimes my keyboard lights will be completely on all around my keyboard… n than sometimes my pc will boot and throw a little code supper quick on my motherboard showing “B4” and than my keyboard will only have a few of the keys with lights on down the middle of the keyboard.. i than have to unplug my keyboard n re plug it back in.. how do I solve the issue to not showing “B4” & it only shows for a split second before it fully boots into windows .. so it’s not a huge issu right now but I don’t want it effecting anything later on..

The water in my loop just bearly makes it around and just drips in the reservoir. I have no idea why it used to work before i was just replacing the water in it. I tought it was a clogged up cpu block causing the problem but no i replaced it and removed it from the loop still no difference. Normally the pictures are in the right order soo you can follow the loop.

Hello , I’ve been having issues with my new pc I built … only had it for about 2-3 months … I have 3 monitors … my specs are i9 13900k Nvidia 4070 Founders card ,, Rog strix Z790 e gaming wifi motherboard.. and I’ve been having an issue with my start up… ever since I tried to delete my Nvidia drivers to move them to a different nvme.. and well once I had deleted and re installed .. it kinda bricced my displays on start up .. where when it boots it only detects one monitor sometimes … and than I have to like manually turn off than back on my second monitor than all my monitors like flash on all connected … this issue had only started happening after I deleted and re installed Nvidia drivers … maybe corrupted drivers ? Or did my Bios automatically switch boot up to integrated graphics im just so confused I’ve been doing trouble shooting for 3 weeks

Hi there, I've read several reddit feeds from the past and they all seem to be somewhat confusing. This doesn't always happen so I'm wondering what might be the case here. Just then my computer blacked out twice just on browsing Google and YouTube A while back like 1.5 years ago my pc started making this loud fan noise and screen blacked out after booting up These are the parts I have CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor Motherboard ASRock B450M Steel Legend Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Storage Western Digital Blue 2 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Video Card Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB Video Card Case Corsair 275R Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply Gigabyte P-B 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply Is there any troubleshooting steps that you'd as newbie like me trying before going to a computer store to disagose the issue? Thanks in advanced IMG_3510.mov

The issue: Both my old and new PC crash while gaming/under load. No blue screen or freezing, just *poof* complete shutdown. Sometimes after 15-30 minutes, sometimes longer. After it restarted I can immediately start gaming again till it crashes again after some time... So because both systems experience the same exact same issue I would assume the PCs are not the issue? Temps are low on the new system so overheating seems unlikely. (below the parts of my new PC) I've tried different outlets in my apartment and different power cables but no success. Could the issue be my apartment's electrical installation? I don't know where else to look... Would a UPS be a solution? What are your thoughts? -Lian Li O11 Dynamic EVO ATX Mid Tower Case -AMD RYZEN 7 7800X3D PROCESSOR 4.2 GHZ -MSI RTX 4080 16GB VENTUS 3X OC NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 GDDR6X -NZXT Kraken 360 - RGB - Black -Asus Prime X670-P -Kingston 32GB DDR5 6000Mhz (2x16GB) -be quiet! Light Wings PWM 56 CFM 140 mm Fans 3-Pack + NZXT F120 RGB Core 3-pack -Samsung 990 Pro 1TB M.2 -Corsair RM1000e Location: Europe, Belgium

I have a pc with a A320M-A Pro with Ryzen 3 3200g, 32gb ram and a gt 730 that i bought second hand and im trying to use the integrated graphics the Radeon Vega 8 which is way faster that the gt 730 but the issue is that everytime i try to use the integrated graphics my computers goes to automatic repair stays there for some time and then just turns off but its still running basically everything goes black but my fans are still going and the lights of the case are still on, i have tried reinstalling windows but everytime im reinstalling it reaches 70% and then the computer turns off again, i was able to get to windows login screen but after like 15 seconds the pc turned off again and i was able to use the pc with integrated graphics and it was a huge difference it was like 4x the perfomance in games but then the computer went to sleep because of being stopped for 15min and when i tried to click the keyboard to turn it on the keyboard would turn on when i pressed it and then turn right off again so basically the computer turned off again since then i have been trying to find a solution for this problem.

My PC was working 3 days ago, and then I packed it up since I was moving houses. Now after I try turning it on, it won't show any signs of electrical activity whatsoever. My fans don't turn on and nothing lights up. The power supply and motherboard are getting power because if I attach any of my peripherals, they light up. However, the PC won't turn on at all. I had just kept it in my car while moving. Any ideas what could be wrong?

Hello all.. I can't seem to post boot my msi z390 meg ace Mobo, it has a red cpu debug light on,cpu works well as I eve swapped it for a good working one, my rgb corsair vengeance pro ram stick done even light up (I might try difrent ram sticks that I know work). The fans dont even kick on after power up.. The Mobo does power up and the gpu fan spins and some led fan lights flicker.. But that it.. Any one have some thought to this? Maybe a fried Mobo? Maybe a bad cpu power cord that's connected to the psu? Idk.. Help!

Hello. Excuse me, but I need some help with my expansion drive problem, I need the data inside it since there are so many private and important stuff in it. So, previously I pulled out my expansion drive while it still reading some data because I'm in a hurry to get out of the house. When coming back and checking on the drive, it won't show up on My Computer even though it's connected, there is a usb connected sound. I checked the Disk Management menu, and Picture 1 is how it looks. I tried to look for the solution online, and some local forum suggest to Rebuild the MBR so it won't erased the data while fixing the problem. The forum tell me to use the Minitool partition wizard, which I did, shown in the Picture 2, but the every option for the drive is greyed out. Please help me, I need the data inside the drive but I'm also too broke to afford data recovery service which very pricey in my country. Thank you in advance for the answers.

I'm going to paste my response to an older thread of someone having the same issue with two brand new EVGA PSUs. "I'm having the same exact issue with a brand new EVGA 750w Gold PSU. All values are normal and within range EXCEPT for the PG value is flashing and beeping 0 ms. Got the PSU from a guy recently for free because he couldn't get it to work, but it's brand new off Amazon and he never ended up returning it. I assumed he just did something wrong and I'm seeing this issue for many EVGA PSUs. Any info would be appreciated."

I've noticed that when I plug in my Western Digital USB Hard Drive, it will say that there is a driver error when I go to the "Bluetooth and other devices settings" section in Windows. Before this, qBittorrent was giving me an "I/O device error" on the torrent I was trying to seed from that drive and when I would unplug it and plug it back in, Windows would tell me that there was a problem with the drive and that I should scan the drive to fix it. Scanning the drive did find errors, but even after I had Windows scan the drive, I kept getting that notification. Eventually, I got a BSOD with the stop code usbstor.sys. After I got that BSOD and the system restarted, I no longer got that notification, but I then started getting the driver error and slow transfer speeds that I mentioned before. I tried using a different cable and plugging the drive into different ports, but neither of these seemed to fix the issue. When I tried plugging the drive into another PC, instead of seeing a driver error, I got a message that said that the driver was unavailable. CrystalDiskInfo said the drive was good. When I ran CrystalDiskMark on the drive, I got 110MB/s reads and 77 and 107MB/s writes. Operating System - Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit (Windows 11 installed from the factory) (Full retail version) Age of system - 1 year OS Installation Age - 2 Months CPU - Ryzen 7 6800H GPU - Radeon RX 6650M System Manufacturer - HP (Omen) Model Number - Omen by HP Gaming Laptop 16-n0033dx I have attached a zip file containing my CrystalDiskMark and CrystalDiskInfo results as well as a .dmp file from when the BSOD happened and an HTML file that I got from going to the Windows Performance Monitor and waiting 60 seconds. I would've done it by running perfmon /report from the command line, but every time that I've tried that, it gets stuck on "Collecting data for 60 seconds" every time I try to do that. HardDriveIssue.zip

internet cafe owner here. something happened in roblox installer in which it would just crash and close program. this never happened before in my rental pcs. and before you ask, my rental pcs are relying on diskless system, in which all of them will rely on a vhd acting like an "image OS" that's connected to a server (aka my pc). no writes will happen on the image OS and therefore it never saw any changes for months. and then roblox installer just suddenly decided to just crash and kill itself, losing customers. I'll just show the thing in video https://youtu.be/PyqinQ6sB9U

I plug everything into the mother board, and power it on. The monitor says no signal and turned off. Tried it with 2 other monitors and it did the same. All monitors work. Then I updated the bois and it installed the new bois. When I plugged the monitor in it had the same message of no signal. Please help, I don’t know what wrong.