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Building a new PC, with a 13900k, and probably gonna go with 64gb of 6400 DDR5 (not just for gaming this is why). And while trying to find a motherboard, I can't really find a reason why I would go higher than a MSI MAG Z790 TOMAHAWK if I don't plan to OC. Is there something I'm missing here? Thank you

I'm trying to repurpose some old parts into a working PC for my SO, but when I try to boot the system, I get the CPU and RAM debug lights on at the same time (which is why I had to upgrade in the first place). I've tried everything short of a new CPU or new motherboard, any other suggestions? Ryzen 5 1600x and MSI Mortar B350M

Does anyone have encountered this? I'm not sure if I made a mistake with the connection or just the driver or something else. Thanks

Im planning to get a MSI PRO B660M-A WIFI and does it need a bios updated when paired with a i5-12400? If it needs a BIOS update and doesn't boot (due to older BIOS), how do i update the BIOS?

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MPG-B550I-GAMING-EDGE-WIFI/Specification I just wonder if the screw here has ring in it, is it by default stuck or combine or should I separated it? If I need to separated it, how can I do that? Thanks

I assembled my pc some time back and i keep seeing posts about optimum bios settings but i have no idea about this part need some help tweaking the settings to get the best performance. My setup is AMD Ryzen 7 5700x MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI NVIDIA RTX 3060Ti RAM 32 GB DDR 4 3200 Thanks.

Until today I had not had any problems with my pc, I was playing in the afternoon and turned off the pc, after a few hours I turned it back on and to my surprise, the motherboard showed the VGA LED on and did not show the MSI BIOS screen, just stayed on but with a black background while the components remained on and the fans spinning. I disconnected the graphic and I put it back to my surprise it turned on correctly, I opened HWiNFO, GPU-Z and the voltage values of the Motherboard, CPU, GPU were correct, the temperatures were very good as usual, I did stress test and the performance is the same as always, I even went back to play and no problem. I turn off the pc and about 1 hour later I tried to turn it back on and the same PROBLEM returned. I repeated the process of disconnecting and connecting the graphic and returned to work normally momentarily, the conclusion I came to is that if I disconnect the graphic and reconnect the pc will turn on and work normally, I can even restart it or even leave it off at least a few minutes, if I leave it off a long time, when trying to turn it on the same problem returns, I need your help. the pc stays on with the monitor on black and sometimes a white line appears on the top right as in this image.

Hello Everyone, I hope you've come across a solution to this perplexing issue. Allow me to share my recent experience with the MSI MAG Z790 Tomahawk WiFi motherboard, which has been a source of constant frustration and has consumed countless hours of troubleshooting. To begin with, I updated the BIOS to the most recent one for my motherboard from MSI website, when I initially set up the motherboard, I encountered a major hurdle—no drivers were installed. As a result, various components like network adapters, audio, Bluetooth, and others appeared as 'Other devices' in the Device Manager. Connecting to the internet was impossible, forcing me to install the Windows operating system in limited mode. Eventually, I managed to utilize a second PC to download the necessary network drivers from the MSI website. I can't help but wonder if this level of difficulty is normal, as I don't recall encountering such challenges when I built my last system over five years ago. At present, I've managed to get the WiFi working, making the PC usable. However, I haven't been as fortunate with the Ethernet connection. Despite my best efforts, which included manually installing the latest drivers from MSI's website or Intel's, utilizing MSI Center's auto driver installation, and even trying Intel's driver support assistant, I've been unable to establish a functional Ethernet connection. What's interesting is that the latest LAN drivers for my Windows 10 operating system appear to install correctly. In the Device Manager, the Ethernet adapter is listed as 'intel(R) Ethernet Controller i226-V' under 'Network Adapters,' without any yellow exclamation marks or signs of an unidentified device. I've also attempted disabling the device and deleting the drivers to reinstall the latest versions each time I've attempted to troubleshoot. Every other driver that has been installed seems to be functioning as normal, Wifi, audio etc... Unfortunately, Ethernet connectivity continues to elude me. I'm confident that the cable is not the issue, as it is a standard CAT 6 cable that came with my router and functions when connected to my old PC. Additionally, the Ethernet port on the new MSI motherboard does show signs of activity, with the port lights flickering in amber and green during boot-up. Considering this, I find it unlikely that there is a faulty port or motherboard that somehow passed quality control. I believe there must be a simple solution that I have yet to discover. Perhaps I unintentionally unchecked a setting in the BIOS that disables Ethernet connectivity (although I don't believe I have), or maybe it's a minor problem with the router. I appreciate any insights or guidance you can provide in resolving this matter. Thank you

Hi, I'm trying to upgrade a system to nvme m.2 on a MSI gaming 5 z97 motherboard. I've updated the bios to the latest version, tried all combinations of settings on the BIOS, left the SATA-5 and 6 ports unpopulated (as they are disabled when using the M.2 port on this board) but I can't get it to detect the brand new 1tb nvme m2 drive I installed. Trying to install Windows 10 on it the drive still isn't recognize here either, are there proven methods to resolve this issue?

Water Cooled Laptop, MSI GP66 This linked video is a bit of a TLDR and shows the most current setup of the laptop and radiator stand. There are some gameplay clips at the end and all games are on ultra with RTX on and DLSS on quality in 1080p because that is what my monitor is. The end shows pictures of the cooler in it's different configurations over time. Towards the end of last year I found myself trying to cut up my IETS GT500 cooling pad to replace the fan and make it more quiet. While doing this I came across a series of water cooled laptop videos from LTT and a few others. After finding out about the XMG laptops and their Oasis cooler shortly after, I knew I needed to give it a shot. Cost wise the XMG laptops weren't it for me, I thought I could out do them with a better preforming laptop and a DIY water loop and radiator setup while keeping it as practical if not more. From here, I settled on an MSI GP66 11UH, the most powerful gaming laptop in it's class holding the record of (at the time) 14,057 and a BeQuiet Pure Loop to keep on the idea of keeping things as quiet as possible. Way too many attempts at bending 1/4" copper pipe to match the stock heatsink, 2 broken stock heatsinks, and more SnBi solder than Id like to admit, I had my first iteration of the water cooled GP66 together. The first version used a remote radiator connected by amazon QDC which were soon replaced by Koolance QDC which are nothing short of amazing. I kept with BeQuiet fans and experimented with a few fan variations. Starting with 2 Pure Wings fans and then 4 in a push pull setup I stuck with 4 for a time mainly because the fans helped keep the radiator from getting dinged up in a backpack (did I mention I was taking this with me to work?). Eventually I dialed this in to just 2 Silent Wings 3 fans with higher static pressure. With the water cooling set up, games ran at 15-18* less with no sound from the fans whatsoever. Cinebench gained about 3000 points from air cooling, air cooling still worked perfectly, and I set the now world record score of 14,091 on Time Spy for the 11800h/3080 combo! Time went on and I was hit with a realization, this all started because I wanted a more quiet cooling pad, so why haven't I made this radiator into a cooling pad yet? I ran to MicroCenter and grabbed something I thought would work. Let me take a second to say, the MicroCenter guys in Tustin are troopers; dudes did what they could to help with this madness and not one cracked a laugh when I said I was water cooling a laptop. With some minor modification I rigged up the radiator, reservoir, and voltage regulator to the stand. It still worked, but it degraded the cooling significantly. because there was no bottom if I used the laptop in bed a blanket would block any and all airflow. Regardless of placement, the grating on the top further suffocated the fans trying to blow through them. This reduced the cooling gains from -18* to -10* at best. After giving it some time I flushed the Go Chiller coolant I was trying out (didn't even give it a week and it was causing more liquid to come out of the QDC because of gunking them up) and 'borrowed' my wife's old stand she had for a chrome book. Using zip ties at first it was obvious this stand would be the way to go. The top was unobstructive and the bottom kept the intake fans from being blocked. These two benefits weren't the only things, the cooling actually improved compared to the remote radiator. Keeping about 10mm for the fans to have good airflow, the cool air from the fans (cooler than the laptop at least) was blowing into the intakes of the laptop and helped take off another 2* from when the radiator was remote. This wasn't enough for a substantial boost in benchmarks, but it was enough to keep Cinebench from breaking 92* at the same overclock which had previously been (very slightly) throttling. The final tweak that was made to reduce the profile of the stand was to replace the 4 Pure Wings fans (Burnt out the Silent Wings turning the voltage controller too high on accident) with the Phanteks T30 fans. These beastly fans push more air than the push pull BeQuiet fans and are still unbelievably quiet. Lastly, I also 3d printed a bracket for the Koolance fittings, because they are actually bulkhead fittings because they just weren't amazing enough to begin with. With this setup most games will never break 60*. The only game I have that gets anywhere near 70* is the Dead Space remake. Doom Eternal plays at 60* GPU and 61*CPU (73* 81* on air); Metro Exodus (Enhanced Ed) plays at 59* GPU and 54* CPU (79* 75* on air); and Dead Space plays at 55* GPU 65* CPU (64* 87* on air). On all games the overclock and undervolt need to be dialed back on the CPU to prevent crashing when it gets too hot.

Hey guys so I recently build a new pc and I finally finished it. Now I noticed fps drops on 1440p max settings in diablo4 when teleporting in the cities. this is my hardware: gpu: rtx 3080 CPU: i7 13700kf mainboard: MSI MAG B760 (ddr5) ram: 2x 32GB Corsair Vengeance DDR5-5600 DIMM CL36 Dual Kit (SKU: CMK32GX5M2B5600C36) so using 4x 16GB modules first I had some issues with the ram, my bad since I didn’t check the qualified vendor list, but I’m getting Kingston ram now which should work better. So currently I’m using 2x 16gbs since the full 4 sticks were unstable with the xmp profile enabled. i read about the heat issues with the i7. I’m using a noctua nhdh15. The cpu goes into thermal throttle sometimes and reaches 100 peak but goes back under 90 Celsius pretty fast. I think this is my fps drop issue though.so I read about undervolting and tried the cpu lite modes but immediately saw a decrease in cinebench score. Next I found out about the undervolting protection and that I can disable it in the microcode selection „no uvp“. But the cpu lite load still affects my performance. So is it even possible to tame this cpu in my setup? I’m confused I never had such cpu issues before. Feel like vendors are making it harder and harder to build a pc.. or should I use the voltage Offset instead? Thanks

Hey all, i just overclocked my 3070ti suprim X using msi afterburner. Windows immediately froze and restarted after the overclock. For the past 10 minutes its been starting, and after 15 seconds it restarts. What should i do?

Hello everyone! I want some other opinions on my current cooling situation. I have an Intel i7-12700K running at 5.1 GHz. I built this system in February of 2022 (16 months ago) and am cooling it with a MSI MAG Series CORELIQUID P240 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler. I used Fractal Design Venturi fans fans all the way around and the Fractal Design Meshify 3. I also used Noctua's NT-H1 thermal paste. I know the cooler's pump is the loudest part of my system, and it has made a annoying buzz since day one. I was recently looking to maybe replace the AIO with an NH-D15 from Noctua (which is about $109 USD) and I was wondering if it is a good use of my money. Will the Noctua fans be quieter than the AIO pump? Will the cooling performance be on par? I've got the room for it in my case and the funds to throw at it right now. I am going to upgrade the storage anyway and thought I may as well throw in a new cooler too if it would be quieter without sacrificing cooling. I also know it is over a year old, which I have heard AIOs don't last more than 2 years and I wouldn't want to risk a leak. Any advice is welcome! Thank you in advance!

(This was generated by ChatGPT, but it's all true information regarding his issue, I just didn't want to write a whole post so I got GPT to do it) Link to his part list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/tJyB8r Hey everyone, I'm reaching out to this amazing community for some assistance regarding a perplexing issue my friend is experiencing with his computer. He's been facing problems with his motherboard's USB slot, which is exhibiting some erratic behavior, leading to performance issues in the games he loves to play. I thought I'd seek your expertise and see if anyone has encountered a similar problem or has any ideas on how to resolve it. Here are the specifics of the issue: Weird Queue Bug: Occasionally, while playing games, a strange queue-like bug occurs. It's hard to describe, but it seems like there's some delay or lag when inputting commands. This results in a noticeable drop in performance, affecting his gameplay experience. Input Lock and Restricted Movement: Another issue he encounters is that the USB slot intermittently stops all possibilities of input. It's as if the keyboard and mouse suddenly lose their connection, and he can't control the game at all. On some occasions, the input locks, and he can only move in one direction, making it impossible to enjoy his games properly. To provide some context, he is using an MSI PRO B760-P motherboard, coupled with an Intel Core i5-13400F CPU. It's worth mentioning that he has updated all relevant drivers and firmware to the latest versions, hoping it would resolve the issue, but unfortunately, no luck so far. We have tried the following troubleshooting steps: Switching USB Ports: He has attempted to connect the peripherals to different USB slots on the motherboard to rule out any specific port-related issues. However, the problem persists regardless of the USB port used. Testing Peripherals: He has tested the keyboard and mouse on a different computer, and they function perfectly without any issues. This further suggests that the problem lies specifically with the USB slot on his motherboard. We're open to any suggestions or potential solutions you might have. Has anyone experienced a similar problem with the MSI PRO B760-P motherboard or any other motherboard model? Are there any known compatibility issues with the Intel i5-13400F CPU? Any insights or troubleshooting steps you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance for your time and assistance. We're eagerly looking forward to your valuable inputs and potential solutions! Best regards, Dr. Popper

My old motherboard (ASROCK B550M Steel Legend) died, so I bought the MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk. I installed it and assembled everything together. Everything boots up perfectly, but what isn't is the fact that I cannot get into the internet via the cable. The same cable functioned well just few hours ago. Okay, so this computer has never been connected to the internet before with this brand new motherboard, so I shoot up the MAG B550 Tomahawk product page on MSI.com, navigate myself to the "Drivers" tab, pick Windows 10 64-bit, choose LAN Drivers tab, download drivers on my laptop, put them on my USB stick and connect the USB with my computer. I extract the file, run the installer ("Install_Win10_10065_05032023"), and the InstallShield Wizard pops up. I press Next - Install and it stars to install the Realtek Ethernet Controller Driver. It installs and installs, then tells me that Detecting Realtek Ethernet Network Controller and suddenly "The Realtek Network Controller was not found. If Deep Sleep Mode is enabled Please Plug The Cable". Okay.... that's odd.. I press "Finish" on the InstallShield Wizard. Then I open up Device Manager from Control Panel and under Network Adapters, I only see 8 different WAM Miniport's (IKEv2; IP, IPv6; L2TP, Network Monitor; PPPOE, PPTP, SSTP). Under "Other devices" I see two Ethernet Controllers with the yellow (!) mark. I've watched tons of videos, one video mentioned some kind of killer network ethernet driver, but they're not available on the MSI site anymore, as they used to be previously. So what kind of options do I have left to debug this stupid issue? Thanks for the help!

Hi after building my pc I wanted to install the rgb software for my msi components so I decided to install msi center but each time it puts this on me (see screenshot) and I don't know how to solve this thank you in advance for your answer what is written on the screenshot After exiting msi center relaunch msi center and click yes option in User Account Control dialog box to complete msi center installation

This issue already exists as a thread, but nothing in the realm of a fix has come to light. I find a lot of solutions being to unplug and plug the monitor wire from the CPU_FAN slot and to also move it to an AIO plug and vice versa. Of course, zero change. At this point, I have gone to the extend of using a completely different motherboard and the same AIO cooler, just one that has an hour of use rather than 2 years of use. So, I feel like my control variables are well enough...controlled so that I can omit the issue coming from the motherboard itself or just simply a bad cooler. Obviously neither were the problem. I have reinstalled iCUE to see if that was the issue. It wasn't. I checked BIOS settings for anything else, and nothing there as well. Both my motherboard BIOS and iCUE software are reading a stable, sub-50oC CPU temp, meaning that the pump is in fact WORKING as it should and that nothing is actually wrong. I did verify that those conditions were also present on the previous setup with my hardware. Question is, where do I go from here? I have already reached out directly to Corsair and I am waiting to hear back. The only other issue I can think that exists is a faulty Commander CORE accessory that controls all RGB fans/accessories and the pump itself. I have double and triple checked plug connections, as there are 2: USB and SATA power. All snug and firmly in their seats. However, I find that hard to believe, only because I do not see that failing like a fan or RAM module. I am not ruling it out, but I would like to find someone who could at least partially confirm this. I do have another Commander CORE to use at my disposal to swap and test. But, what if that is not the issue and it is something else? I recently shipped my PC from where I was living and I know for a fact that I had packed the box so that the case was snug and secure within. When I had opened my case to inspect everything, the Commander has not moved, nor was there any noticeable physical damage to that device in any way. Could it have been a short somehow from a lot of static electricity (we have all seen the video Linus did with ESD and most of the time components were affected indirectly). I will consider going to air cooling again. I have a cooler in mind that I would purchase to replace the faux faulty AIO. Although, I won't change if I do not have to.

I'm considering getting a MSI MPG A1000G PCIE5. But I would like to have something with a better efficiency, that won't be much more expensive that that. It NEEDS to ATX3.0 and PCIE5. 1000W, no more, no less. Preferably from a well-known brand.

Hello Friends, I need help with my MSI B150M Night Elf motherboard, It won't turn ON, but there is a Blue light led below CMOS battery

I can't launch MSI Center Pro on my MSI Modern 14 B5M, my OS is Windows 11 Home. I use my MSI Center Pro every day to change my fan settings it worked yesterday, I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling the software but still no change, I've also tried disabling Windows security firewalls, uninstalling Kaspersky Antivirus, and run it as admin. I tried to look in other forums I've only found one on the official MSI forum the suggestion involved doing something with the regedit so I chose not do do it Please if someone knows how to solve my please tell me, I can't change my fan settings and charging limit now.

I didn't got this cable within the box so now I want to get this Thermaltake wire!! From where can I get this one as it is Thermaltake proprietary cable?

Hello, I am the first-time poster here as I made my account 20 ish minutes ago. I have an MSI Twin Frozr 7 2060 super card for my system, other specs are Ryzen 3600 xt 64 gbs of G.skill ripjaw ram and Gaming plus msi board (forget the chipset name). Very long story short this is the second time this card has failed on me. First time I sent it off to get RMAd by MSI and it lasted about 5 months before the same failure happened again. I then took it to micro center to get it tested and they said it was basically dead and to either replace the card or rebuild all the thermals. I don't like creating e-waste and I can't afford either solution at the time so I am seeing which one would be worth doing. Should I try to rma it again as whatever they did the first go around didn't work? Should I save to replace the card (thinking 3000 series to stay in the Nvidia family) or do I rebuild the card with new paste and pads (never done it before)

Hey all, I just managed too build my first PC, however it does not seem to boot. I have a z790 msi pro wifi motherboard which gives ez debug lights. For me, the boot light lighted, which means something was up with a ssd. i only have one storage thingy in my pc which is a samsung 970 evo 2tb nvme ssd, and I put it in the first slot (cpu slot according to mobo. I reinstalled it but it still gave the light. After this I installed it in the 3rd nvme slot (Pcie slot) and now the boot light was gone, however still no booting. The nvme ssd also doesnt show up in the bios as booting option, is it even possible to boot with nvme ssd or do I need to buy a sata ssd for booting. Please help me, see pictures for references. I changed booting order also now to usb (I have a usb c stick of 16gb) but this also has no success. The bios just keeps starting over and over again after exiting specs: Msi Z790 Pro wifi ddr4 Corsair vengeance rgb ddr4 3600mhz Msi pcie5 psu 850W Lian Li AiO Galahad 360 Intel i5 13600k Msi ventus 3060

I bought a 3070 for around £570 a few months ago and just looked at the prices for the 4070 which is now around the exact same price. Is it worth to trade in my msi 3070 and buy a 4070?

Pc specs :- i7 8700k msi z370 gaming pro carbon ac g skill Trident ddr4 16gb 3200mhz *2 Msi rtx 3070 gaming trio Cooler master ma620p Cooler master k500rgb Samsung 970 evo plus 1tb Samsung 970 evo plus 250gb Wd blue 1tb 7200rpm Cooler master v750 fully modular Please check video Thanks VID_20230519_055842.mp4