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Hi, I am just wondering if there is a way for me to mod my gtx 970 (palit oem blower) to get some good temps while still being quiet? I have been looking for aftermarket coolers but they just aren't available in the UK anymore. Could I possibly use a cpu cooler for my gtx 970 as, the stock heatsink is tiny.

I prefer air coolers, and I love the industrial design of the dark rock pro 4. I want to replace the 120mm external fan with a high static pressure rgb fan. My only concern is whether or not the bracket system will work with most fans. Has anyone else here tried it?

So I need to replace the fan on my GPU since it started making weird noises (I assume the bearing wore out?) and out of nowhere stopped spinning for a few seconds while testing it in MSI Kombustor. My GPU fan is 75mm in diameter with 50x50x50mm mounting hole distance. For some reason, I can't find any fan with a 50x50x50mm mounting hole distance, while the closest I've found were fans with 40x40x40mm or 43x43x43mm. Now, is it ok if I buy those fans and then drill my own holes onto the plastic where the mounting screws go? In my opinion, it sounds perfectly fine but I just want to hear other people's opinions since this is the first time I've had to replace a GPU fan and this is my first GPU which I bought used. I live in the Philippines so other sites aren't viable for me, but for those who wants to help find a fan with those dimensions (and compatible with this 12V, 0.5A) I would much appreciate it. :))

Hey peoples, noob here! I am loving the Lian Li TU150 case but as much as I do, I can't sacrifice not having my AVerMedia Duo Capture Card. I most probably am missing something obvious but browsing motherboards and different builder sites only allow for the little mini boards. I'd love to make this happen bc I am mobile with my rig and need my DSLR with me for work. So I guess another "Portable" case is my second option. I guess the Sliger SM580 is the simple solution but I like the chonky boi TU150 and SM580 is almost four times the price!? [EDIT] The mini boards like on the picture only have a place for the graphics card. I believe up to triple PCI slots covers. Mine is a double. I'd like to utilize the bottom space for my capture card but all the mini motherboards don't allow it! (Sorry for lack of actual question!) Thanks you for your time! ~Seth

Before you post saying that the card is a fake here's a picture of the branded chip (zoom in). Hello everyone, I got this card for free from a buddy that does warranty for prebuilt pcs. He doesn't know from what specific prebuilt this is but there's a reddit post mentioning this card and a comment about it ( 1 ; 2 ) there's also an old ebay page for it ( 1 ) The GPU itself is working great but the temperatures are a bit too hot (even after changing the thermal paste). I'd like to get a third party GPU cooler but I'm not sure what would fit... I've seen people suggesting the Accelero III, NZXT G12 (which might need some modding), the MORPHEUS II or the id Cooling 120mm vga cooler for other blower style 2070's but no one seems sure if they fit or not. The problem that I see is the DVI shroud and that usually doesn't allow a good fit. Here's some pictures of the board when I changed it's thermal paste today ( 1 ) Hope you guys can help me since on reddit everyone just calls it fake and what not. I can also post a Userbench page to prove that it's working as expected and it's not a spoofed card. Thanks! PS: Maybe a video about these weird custom brand made prebuilt cards would be something interesting? PPS: I live in Canada

I work for a large corporation. I work remotely, and I'm provided with a corporate imaged desktop computer. They told us they would give us laptops, but reneged on that promise. I want to travel. I shouldn't be stuck at home, when I can do my job from anywhere that internet is available. It's just not feasible to lug a mini desktop computer, monitor, keyboard, mouse, webcam, and headset into a Starbucks every time I have to make that money. I highly doubt I could just clone the hard drive to a laptop, because the image used is ridiculously locked down, driver compatibility, and the mac address is how I'm provisioned onto the VPN. How hard would it be, to buy an old, laptop, with a good keyboard and screen, and transfer the logic board of the Dell Optiplex 7070 into it, and get it hooked up and working with the laptop parts? The crafting and fitting it into a case, should be the easy part. It's the connecting to a laptop screen and laptop keyboard that will be the challenge. I don't necessarily need a battery, it can be plugged in full time. Touchpad wouldn't be necessary, because I would use a wireless mouse. I know I'd have to worry about thermals... some of our software tends to ramp up the fans on it. It has to be reversible... because eventually I'd need to turn in the computer, whether for an upgrade, or if I leave the company. Does anyone have recommendations for a donor laptop, and how to go about connecting the keyboard and screen? Or a different solution to my problem?

Budget (including currency): $200 U.S. Buckaroos Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: All Xbox and Xbox 360 Games - Both Digital and Disc Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Parts I Have Already: Used, Owner Refurbished Xbox 360 S, PSU, and Controller, 500 GB HDD; Tools: Torx T8 & T10 Screwdrivers, All Kinds of Phillips and Flathead Screwdrivers; All Peripherals Are Here. Upgrading My Good Ol' Xbox 360 Slim to run smoother, have more efficient Cooling, And Just Look Cool. Res is maxed at 1080p, and seeing as I only have a 720p HDTV, That hardly matters. Refresh Rate of my display is a solid 60 Hz. A little Background info: The reason I've chosen something that isn't (Entirely) PC Related is because I need a solid, Reliable Gaming Rig that'll end up costing under $200 USD. Also, I'm a beginner and an aspiring Tech Enthusiast Whose had some...Ideas... rolling up in my head. I've Got a basic Vision of what I want here: I envision my console in a Clear case, having LED Strips around the Case, but saving room for my Disc and HD Drives. I'm an artist, as well, So I was thinking of maybe painting something on the side. However, I'm Open To Ideas! I plan on doing this in about 1-2 Months time, Getting my parts from sources like eBay, Walmart, Amazon, and Best Buy. NO Wish.com. I have seen the quality of those parts (TRASH) and Have decided against it. For Those of you who want to know, All the parts in my console currently are Original. The same ones that rolled off the factory. The only exception is the Thermal Paste, Just applied some today. Laugh at my choice, but here's what I put on it: GD 900-1 Grease. Laugh now. Okay, So, If people have Ideas, Do NOT Hesitate to say something. I think that this'll be pretty cool when I'm done with it. Peace for now.

I have had multiple Xbox One and PlayStation 4 consoles: both original, slim, and pro/x models. As these consoles go EOL and show up in more numbers used or broken on sites like eBay, there are some things that can be done to keep them running and usable, and ways they can still get use. The PS4 has had one of the best library's for exclusives, and even in the next year or so, lots of games including horizons: far west will be coming to the current gen console. These consoles still make good devices for younger siblings, cousins, grandchildren to use to play games, especially with the large amount of used games and large back catalog. A lot of games can be had for cheap. Also, since all the PS4 consoles have a disc drive, if you live in rural areas with poor or very data capped internet, then the discs could be very useful to you. If you go the PS4 route, try for the pro if you plan to use it for gaming. I also recommend replacing the thermal paste in the system. Every time I buy one of these last gen consoles, I always replace the thermal paste first thing, then usually replace the HDD, since I mostly buy ones with bricked drives. I also usually put in a 1-2tb SSD. Even a QVO or other lower end SSD will do wonders, mainly in the upgraded consoles, but even in the base versions there can be big load time improvements and texture stream in improvements. IO performance from the HDD in these systems can actually hurt performance in such a way that this upgrade helps a lot: I have experienced this with Call of Duty: Black Ops 4 on both PS4 Pro and Xbox One X. Textures load in way faster, the frame rate is far more stable, as you move around maps there is no more hitching as the drive seeks the next part of the map. If you really want to game, PS4 and PS4 Pro are phenomenal choices still, especially with the back catalog of exclusives, and even once the new consoles come down in price, the old games will be able to move forward with better performance, hopefully, to the new console. The Xbox is a different matter. I would not buy the OG VCR Xbox One, leave that one be. If you want to play games, always go for the One X. Again, thermal paste change and a drive switch are very helpful, and the One X actually can have better performance due to the higher CPU clocks and more ram than the PS4 Pro in cross platform games when moved to an SSD. The One S is a different thing all together. While I would not want to game on them, both the One S and One X are far better media machines than the PS4. They both support 4k blu-rays, support Dolby Atmos and DTS:X, and support Dolby vision and hdr10. Having this wide range of capability makes them actually good streaming and media playback boxes. I got my parents a One S, and they love it. I has all the streaming apps, will play their old DVD's, and I even got a VCR/DVD combo that a HDMI translator so they can play tapes using the HDMI passthrough on the console. The One X is a gaming beast, especially with an SSD to have less IO bottle necks in games, but both consoles are some of the best media machines there are, especially if you have a nice home theater setup. The Xbox Series S/X maintains this support, with the Series X being the only one to play 4k Blu-ray, and is one area that the current and next gen consoles from Microsoft are leaps and bounds ahead of Sony. Xbox game pass is also a thing to think about, if you have good internet, as having over 300 games ready to go, just download them to the machine is a very nice thing to have available. I know a lot of people do not think about replacing the thermal paste, but most people on here use pc's, and so may be more inclined to change thermal paste more regularly. I use kryonaut in all my builds, and once yearly when I do loop maintenance on my main pc, I also repaste and clean out the dust on all my consoles. Even if you use something like MX4 though, there is performance gains to be had, and repasting would not need to be yearly. The consoles though do have room for improvement in the thermal paste department, especially if they are used when you buy them. I have found I need to use a little more than I would on a pc, due to the way both consoles mount their cooling solutions, and after I have changed the paste, the fans do not spin up near as high, and there for not as loud, and there is a noticeable and measurable increase in the temperature of the air exiting the systems. Measure on the same system before and after, I went from 49 C exit temp on the One X to 58 C exit temp, and the ambient temp was ~20 C. The PS4 Pro was more dramatic, with an increase from 51 C to 65 C exit temp with ambient temp again ~20 C. These are just my consoles I have used, and as another note, before the thermal past change on the One X, it would crash after ~2 hours of gaming, and would not boot till it cooled and rested for ~1 hour. After the thermal paste change, it has been able to play for over 13 hours straight with no problems or slow downs. As for the SSD, internal is nice to have, especially for boot up, switching between apps, texture streaming, and slightly reduced power consumption and noise, as there are no moving parts. Making your own external SSD will get most of the benefits, the startup and switching apps will be slightly slower, but it would be easier to move the games to the new consoles when or if you get one. Even still, to get a little more performance from the system, an internal SSD can help a lot. Digital foundry has done many looks into the load time, but one thing to also think about is texture streaming and in level loading. Watching their Xbox One X coverage of Jedi Fallen Order, their gameplay was noticeably at a lower average framerate and more laggy in levels when loads, lots of enemies, or big texture streams came in, with large dips in framerates when fighting enemies or loading more of the level. I did not experience any of the on my One X with an internal SSD, there were no loading hangs, slowdowns due to enemy and terrain stream in, and way less loading time. This was in 4k, and it was pretty locked at 30fps, but even in performance mode, it stuck closer to 502sh according to my monitors built in frame counter. These are just my thoughts, and what I have done and experienced over the last generation. I do not think that these will fix issues in games like Cyberpunk, it could make them a little less bad, but honestly I do not think it will be that helpful, as that game has horrible optimization for these consoles. I think these areas are being overlooked, and as more of the newer consoles come out, picking up the older consoles for cheap for extra gaming systems for family members, old school system link on the Xbox's for lan parties after covid, media playing machines for guest rooms or home theater setups, and maybe even just to have and tinker with could be something to look into. I have bought lots of One X's and PS4 Pro's that have had HDD or HDMI failures. HDD failures are easier to fix, as long as the drive is not dead, it can be reformatted to be reflashed as it would in the factory, or if replaced with an SSD, then can be put in a pc or plex server or the like as extra storage. Just something to think about as the old consoles flood the second hand market.

Recently purchased an RTX 2080 secondhand for $300, when I got home and disassembled I noticed some horrifying damage to the cooler face. I decided to just force some water cooling in a case that wasn’t really meant for it. Still came out pretty decent IMO

I have a bunch of forum posts to make to catch up with everything i’ve been doing, but since quarantine i’ve built a gaming rig and customized the crap out of it, packed an antique radio with “broken” itx ebay parts for my girlfriend, built a budget rig for a 12 year old fortnight player, and now I’ve just water cooled the original computer and that’s going through revisions. Been a mac user my entire life, but in a friend group of windows gamers, and now I can at least complaints about windows being the worst, from a place of integrity. Looking forward to making more extensive posts about it this. I’ve got a basement full of retro macs from the newton to the commodore. I did a processor upgrade and water cooled a dual core G4 in 2004 to “compete” with my windows friends in highschool. I’m hoping to dig a lot of that up and post it in its respective forums here. LTT has been fueling me through quarantine for whatever reason. Hopefully this post welcoming myself to your forum is well received.

I bought the NZXT H510 elite a while ago knowing, that my Motherboard doesn't have the USB 3.1 Gen 2 Internal Header I would need to use the USB Type-C on my front IO. I came up with a different use case for the port though. I thought about putting a hidden drive on that port, that I can access on my PC using a USB C to A cable (Sorry I am rather bad at explaining this, I will ad a illustration of my plans). However I have no Idea on what adapters I would need to transform the USB 3.1 Gen 2 Internal Header to a female USB A port (to plug in a USB Stick for example). I would really appreciate any help and If my description isn't clear enough I'll be glad to answer questions.

I found this video on youtube which is this but i wanted to do it so i can get better gpu performance. But however, i tried to search for the ram chips for graphics card on eBay but i found random stuff that isn't what i wanted. The same problem goes to Amazon. Please answer it

I really like my mouse but the scrool has this weird thing where it's, well, the best way to describe it is tiered, and it's super annoying compared to normal scroll wheels. Is it possible to modify it to use another mouse's scroll wheel? mine is a utech venus smart gaming mouse, wired version.

Thought about those quirky boards that adds a full size pcie for an external GPU through the Laptop's mini pcie slot usually used for wifi adapter and thought to myself if it has enough bandwidth for a gpu why not an add in card for usb c/usb 3.1? after searching around I manage to stumble upon this one: https://cablematic.com/en/products/adapter-minipcie-to-usb-31-type-c-reversible-MS07300/ Using this can it theoretically connect to a usb hub that can output hdmi to an external monitor and all the other one cable wonder that usb c can provide? The convenience factor is several times over worth giving up having wifi. And will be a matter of just placing in the card, buying a usb c extension cable and make a hole in the laptop's housing to accommodate the usb c port. Is any of this possible as I described it?

I hate RGB. I have an EVGA 3090 and ASUS ROG Strix Crosshair Hero VIII motherboard with broken second PCIE slot. I need assistance with removing all RGB from my build. I want the computer to have no lights except for post display, power status, and disk activity. all of the extra light keeps me up at night and distracts me. I have tried replacing all tempered glass with black powder coated aluminum panels. The RGB is still clearly visible through the fan grills, IO, slot covers, and screw holes. Thanks for any help you can provide.

If you are like me then you have been waiting for LTT to produce a new straw integrated lid. Wait no more, I have found a alternative as we wait for the LTT Staff to make said glorious lid. Thanks to this obsession with having water bottles that are way too big someone has made straws for any water bottle with lids similar to ours. It's just a straw with a collapsible silicone extension so the straw pops up when open and can be easily forced down to close. So if you too have longed for such an amalgamation, please grab this or anything similar for yourself. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZBZB3SJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Disclaimer: Obviously this is strictly for the gen 2 lids, gen one lids would not benefit from this straw. Also the straw will need to be cut to size I'll measure mine and add it at some point, just to make the process a little easier. (I'm likely not the first to think/ do this but thought i would inform my fellow LTT bottles users)

My laptop is a dell inspiron 5570 and honestly it's Corei7 8550U kinda stinks along with many things and i wanna try to overclock (dont worry i dont want to turn my laptop into a mobile heat chamber lmao) well I wanna see how far i can get with making my laptop to run faster (and i'll probably get a cooler for my laptop too)

This is not selling for/in my country: I will make it myself. I'm thinking about locally laser-cutting a copper sheet/block. 1mm thick, between vram and heatsink, or should I get a thicker block? For that, I'll need to make and give a CAD file to the local service provider. This is the best info I've found so far. Mine's an Asus 3070ti TUF, haven't found on Tech Power Up yet, but seems to be the same as in the above video. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/zotac-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-amp-extreme/3.html https://www.techpowerup.com/review/zotac-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-amp-extreme/images/front_full.jpg This above is the closest I've found from the Asus TUF, seems to be the same orientation, proportion, 0-2-3-3 vram chip pattern. The size and distance from GPU die to vram chips must be the same. Picture seems a bit warped by lens, but seems fine for drawing the CAD on top of. I just need dimensions of the core die or vram chips outter shell, something like that, to take as reference. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-gaming-oc/3.html If anyone already has a CAD file, or knows a link, somewhere I can get the data I need, PLEASE share. When I install mine, if it works, I'll give the cad file in here for free so that anyone (INDIVIDUAL) can just laser cut this easy poop fix by him/her self, and be done with.

Country: Finland Other details: The original power supply model is ADP-300CR I wish to do some soldering to make an adapter for my PS4 Pro. The original power supply is broken and needs to be replaced. I have cables such as these lying around but I am uncertain of the pin-outs on the PS4 Pro. I do not have a multimeter. I found this video on the subject earlier but their console seems slightly different from mine. Is it still viable to just follow the instructions on the video. Has anyone replaced an ADP-300CR before? I also found this blog post on the subject but I'm afraid I found it a bit confusing. Please help me get my PS4 Pro working again.

Finnished this blog now?: Not quite, I am yet to do the Grid2 Benchmark but I can talk about the general use of the cards. Before modding, the reference card was extremely loud, as you can imagine, whereas the Tri-X cooler stayed almost silent. After this mod, I found that while the total noise for both cards has been reduced, the single 120mm fan is having to work harder that the three 80mms on the Tri-X. So it's louder post mod unfortunately. On the bright side though, the card runs at the same temperature but goes back to idle temps much faster. As for the reference, almost a 40 degree difference in max temperature. VRM: The bane of my life while working on these cards, VRM temps are still higher that I would like. At this point though, I can't amend this short of buying bigger and less stylish coolers. Which might seem like a good trade off to some of you but for me, getting this build to look right is more important that perfect temps. 65 degree average VRM in intensive games is good enough for me. Whats Next?: Well since the change from PC In A Drawer to PC On The Wall, I have made progress with the designs. These cards should be installed into the custom case next week, since its half term I can get a day off to do it in. However, I am working on another Attempts blog now. This one will feature a some packaging and an ITX Motherboard. I will not be uploading onto this blog until the cards are fitted into the final case, or until something breaks. Thank You :)

Whats Going On?: Almost as soon as I started mocking up the layout of the drawer, I found that the total thickness would be too much for an under desk drawer. Moreover, the width and height of the case would bee too much to fit, practically, on my desk. With careful consideration to the style of both my office and the PC, I am going to be swapping over to a PC on the wall. However, I will still be building a PC into a drawer. I plan to sue older 939 socket era hardware and some passive cooling solutions to make a work PC that will have hot swap HDD bays, small boot ssd and will fit entirely into a 1.5U sized drawer. I was limited by the magnitude of the hardware in this build, VRM overheating and other unforeseen troubles have lead me to re-work the basis of my build. I plan to adapt what I already have to fit onto the wall, rather that into a desk. The biggest advantage to this would be dropping the cable mechanism that I had planned for the drawer. In order to be able to extend the PC while still in use I would have added 50mm to the thickness of the case. Doesn't seem a lot now but because I can not change some other sizes, I should be able to slim the bulk of the case down, barring the 120mm fans which have to be 120 thick. The Smokey's Chronicles blog has a post entitled Important! which you can actually vote on. If I get more of you asking for a drawer then I will go and build it with this hardware. Please keep in mind that there will be a PC In A Drawer just not with this hardware. Thank You :)

Grid 2 Benchmark, Max Settings, 2560x1080: Maximum VRM temp was 64 degrees, well within acceptable limits considering the up to 105 degree guarantee. However, Tri-x Sapphire cooler VRM temps will not get beyond 50 degrees with the same settings. This is due, most likely, to the difference in heatsink size between the two cards rather than the airflow. After I ran the bench on loop for 50 minuets, the VRMs dropped down to 40 in a matter of seconds and only took five minuets to get back to the idle (34). Of course, these are the VRM1 temps on the card, which are the main VRMs. j VRM2 readings showed a max of 61 and an idle of 51 with just heatsink and no airflow at all. This is also acceptable and I plan to get some airflow over these sinks too in the final project. There are no benchmark images due to the 2mb size limit and the fact that I have no compression software at this time. Fresh install and what not. So is all I can provide at the time. FPS was an average of 56 and max of 79 (rounded) this is all at stock clock. I will be overclocking the cards once I have compared this first 290x with the second after it's modded. Thank You :) p.s. Planning to change mounting for the second 290x. Using Paste for the VRMs rather that the provided pads. I will also spread the processor paste myself to ensure it has good spread.

Finally Some Results!: Geil VRM sinks came this morning, only two days late... Anyway, these sinks are pretty small and with a fan ghetted on the card pretty poorly, they still hit 103 degrees with furmark. However, in regular gaming, I am seeing 95s on average which is on par to the reference cooler that was on here. This post isn't about the core temps but I'm really happy with them. So this higher VRM temp is worth the sacrifice. Can I Make It Better?: I can certanly get rid of the thermal pads that came with the VRM sinks, replaceing it with a nice dolop of MX-4. Which could help with the temeratures. Moreover, placing a fan closer to the sinks will be much better. The original schems for the drawer build had me using the flow directly from the rads to cool the MOSFET, VRAM, RAM and VRMs but I think I am looking at adding more smaller fans into the mix. I suppose the two 200mm NZXTs I have hanging arround would suffice but they would wreck my airflow. Since this is by no means the finnished design I will not be posting in depth test results. Photos!: Whats Next?: Tomorrow moring I will be uploading some core temp readings and tomorrow evening there will be proper bench results. Using furmark and Vally most likely. In addition, I have H60 CPU temps to post on the drawer blog. As well as some mounting test images and other odds and sods. I'd apologise for the lack of content over the past few days but it's not like I've been slacking off. My main systems motherboard died, GA-990FX-UD5. Flat out broke, PC shut down mid youtube video and would not post. So I'm suing an MATX GA-78LMT-USB3 I theived out of my sisters build. Some good news though? I am going to be splurging and grabbing an Asus Formula V. So look forward to that blog. Thank You :)

Greetings! My Antec VSK4000E is BLAND! Help me make it not by adding a window to the side of it. If anyone has instructions or tool / material preferences for the glass, please share with me! I want to see the guts of this PC. Thanks | Grant

can the cooling solution and backplate of a Zotac RTX 3070 (2 fans) be replaced with the 3 fans one from the msi 3070 or strix 3070? would the PCBs have the same mounting holes for the screws?