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RaddyKewl

Member
  • Content Count

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About RaddyKewl

  • Title
    Newbie

Contact Methods

  • PlayStation Network
    Raditude
  • Xbox Live
    Raddy Kewl
  • Reddit
    bxcellent2eo
  • Twitch.tv
    RaddyKewl
  • Twitter
    bx2eo
  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Shelbyville, IN, US
  • Gender
    Female
  • Interests
    Graphic Design, Photo Editing, Film Making
  • Occupation
    Creative Director

System

  • CPU
    i7 2.66GHz
  • Motherboard
    MacBook Pro 6,2
  • RAM
    8GB
  • GPU
    NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M
  • Case
    2010 MacBook Pro 15 Unibody
  • Storage
    512GB SanDisk SSD
  • Mouse
    Apple Magic Mouse
  • Operating System
    MacOS 10.13.6
  • Laptop
    MacBook Pro Late 2010

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  1. I have 4 RGB LED disco lights. They are cheap Chinese products... and I got what I paid for. They light up, there’s a motor that moves them, and they are currently controlled by an IR remote, and have a sound sensor that can’t be disabled. The disco light will come on in the middle of the night, if there’s a loud sound, like thunder. The lighting, and the movement work well, but I’m just not happy with the way to control it. I know there’s WiFi controllers for controlling LEDs. And I know an Arduino or a Raspberry Pi could be used to control the servo motor, and probably the LEDs.
  2. So I followed the directions in that user guide. It didn't work exactly as the directions stated, but I was able to get into factory mode, and changed the LVDS value from 1 to 0, and that fixed the screen, and removed the garbled mess. Thank you very much.
  3. Yes, I stripped the insulation. I bridged it without power then turned it on... just in case I was to short something else out. I'll attempt the Auto Mode, but even the driver board menus come up distorted even with no source.
  4. It doesn't seem to be working. I tried using a bread tie to bridge pin 20 to 13. I tried it on the driver board and on the LCD. Perhaps I'm not getting the wire in well enough to make a good connection.
  5. I'll have to dig around and find some wire... Maybe an old IDE cable or a phone wire. It'll probably be tomorrow before I can continue working on it.
  6. I see the flaw... that won't work because the connector wouldn't fit.
  7. So if I got a jumper (like from an old hard drive) and jump pin 20 to 19... that would ground it?
  8. It looks like the pinout in both sets of schematics match each other.
  9. Thank you for the reply and the schematics. Looking at the video harness, there doesn't appear to be any wires to pins 19 and 20. On the attached image, I've X'd the pins without wires.
  10. So with the edge that is loosened, in theory, that pin isn't connected when I get a clear image, so if I cut that wire, I'd get a clear image. But with my limited experience in electronics, that doesn't seem like a good idea... that's why I'm asking for a second opinion.
  11. Hello, I purchased this LCD panel and driver board on eBay for use in my iMac G3 mod. I just tried hooking them up, and my video is garbled. If I pull the video cable out slightly on one edge, the image corrects itself. Does anyone have any idea of what could be causing this, and how to fix it? I'm almost tempted to cut a wire on the edge of the plug that I've pulled out, but I want to see if anyone else has any better suggestions first. Brand: AUO Model: G150XTN03.0 Technical details: http://www.panelook.com/G150XTN03.0_AUO_15_LCM_overview_15340.html
  12. Hello LTT. Long time viewer, first time on the board. I'm needing to replace the battery in my 15" Late 2010 MacBook Pro. It uses Apple Part # 661-5476. Does anyone have any recommendations for a third party replacement battery that will work like new (or better), and won't explode/catch fire, etc? I'm a photo editor, and I can't afford a new device right now, and this MacBook otherwise does everything I need.
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