Search the Community

ISSUE: My PC will occasionally lock up/ freeze on both monitors (usually playing ram intensive games like Factorio or modded Minecraft), when it locks up the audio still comes through but I can't make any inputs like typing, moving my mouse, caps lock also doesn't light up when I press it. I become completely locked out and I have to restart my PC. It has only ever BSOD'ed once but the freezing is becoming more frequent. Other weird issues I've noticed: my browser on my second monitor will start moving random squares around the screen of the media it is displaying (the effect is worse when watching a video but still happens on any tab) which is usually caused by playing a game on my primary monitor. this issue is super annoying and every time I screenshot it, the screenshot is perfect with no graphical issues small amounts of random green or grey static will appear for half a second at the bottom of my game playing rainbow 6 siege then disappear once my cursor became a solid black box and I restarted out of fear I'll edit the post if I remember any more. RAM: I originally thought it was faulty RAM so I ran a memtest on my old sticks of ram and they all errored which is concerning so I replaced them, I haven't run a test on my new sticks yet but the issue is still occurring. I did have the XMP profile turned on in the BIOS but I turned it off once I started experiencing these issues. When I replaced the sticks everything was running smoothly for the first few days but the locking up and the other issues came back. Old sticks: Corsair 32GB(4x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz Vengeance Pro - CMW32GX4M4C3200C16W New sticks: Corsair 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz Vengeance Pro - CMW32GX4M2E3200C16W I've checked my task manager while playing problematic games and it only uses around 1/3 of my total memory BIOS: If I remember correctly I had to flash my bios to work with my CPU so I was curious whether that could be a cause. PSU: Plugged into the wall along with a mini fridge, I don't believe I'm drawing too much power but rarely my fridge will click and my second monitor will cycle power. Powered by chad 240v Australian outlets. RESOLUTIONS?: I am not quite sure what the issue is so I am reaching out, I've researched it and I can't figure out what the root cause is. I have my suspicions it is still my RAM, I did recently check the QVL list for my motherboard and found my sticks weren't listed. I haven't resorted to the extremes like a fresh install of Windows or replacing SSD as my last Hail Mary because I am hoping the issue is fairly minor. QUESTIONS: What could the issue be? Is there something that I could install or show to help you find the issue? If there is anything else you need I'll happily send it. I will be watching this post like a hawk so I should reply fairly quickly, any help is greatly appreciated. Spec List w/ Model Number: OS: Windows 11 Home BIOS: ver. f4d CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X3D (100-100000651WOF) GPU: ASUS Radeon RX 6900 XT TUF Gaming Top Edition 16GB (TUF-RX6900XT-T16G-GAMING) RAM: Corsair (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz Vengeance Pro (CMW32GX4M2E3200C16W) MOBO: X570S AORUS MASTER STORAGE: Samsung 2TB 970 EVO Plus M.2 NVMe SSD (MZ-V7S2T0BW) PSU: Corsair 850W RM850 80+ (CP-9020232-AU) DISPLAY: 2x Acer 24" QHD IPS 144Hz (VG271US) Thanks, Benjamin

I was playing Rust and realized I couldn't crouch jump. I have a Keychron K10 keyboard. Space-bar doesn't work when I am holding 'ctrl'. Just started to have this problem recently. I don't see it as a ghosting problem as it can do 20+ keys at once. Any solutions? 20230526_153540.mp4

As the title already states, been upgrading recently from a gtx 1650 to 6650XT, I got almost the same performance on stuff like GTA, when a lot of ppl on YT get 120fps on ultra I get roughly 60-65FPS, same goes for Sons of the Forest (50FPS) and Control (70FPS) even Fortnite performs pretty bad (90FPS high settings). So I was wondering if I should send it back and get a new one or if someone could help me, maybe I forgot something. What I did: XMP enabled Uninstalled old drivers Installed new drivers Benchmarked (the GPU eats 157W max which is limit. Temps look fine 58°C and 70-75°C Hotspot) Been overclocking it a bit to increase the performance Benchmarked again (clocks are stable, still bad performance) Enabled resizeable bar Updated the BIOS Reinstalled drivers TimeSpy: Clock: 2950MHz Memory: 2350 MHz Core Voltage: 1150mV TimeSpy GPU Score: 10 637 This runs pretty stable been benchmarking it a lot System: GPU: RX 6650XT PowerColer Hellhound OC CPU: i5-10400 Motherboard: MSI H410M-A Pro RAM: 32 GB Corsair Vengeance 3200MHz (runs on 2666MHz limited by CPU) PSU: 650W 85+ Bronze Storage: Samsung NVMe M.2 980 1TB Samsung QVO SATA SSD 2TB CPU-Cooling: be quiet! Pure Rock 2 Case Cooling: 3x Front (Pull), 2x Top (Push), 1x Back (Push) Resolution: 1080P

Hi all reading this I just purchased an ebay 3900x from seller europe_99 , my previous components with no issues or OC before or after. Asus tuf b450m plus 2 2400g Corsair vengeance lpx 2x8gb 3200mhz Xfx rx 580 8gb Gigabyte 256 m.2 ssd pcie 3.0 x4 Pny 1tb 2.5 ssd I updated the bios to asuss' recommended ver. 4010 with all the hardware listed above only switching to the 3900x. Now I've only seen a flash of the sign in screen on windows but scared the cpu maybe faulty I'm getting error codes Kernel data inpage error Memory management Whea uncorrectable error And one 0x00021a I've noticed in the bios it's idle voltage is 1.406 to 1.417... Even when i tried to reinstall windows it wont even let me pull it from any usb slot I'm at a loss any help will be greatly appreciated

Anyone else has this problem that when AirPods connect to my windows pc, the Bluetooth doesn't work 10/10, instead, it connects and sounds ok but at the second it starts crackling and sounding awful. I want to fix this so bad but I have seen lots of tutorials and still can't fix it. Somehow it sounds like the connection isn't strong enough, but my Bluetooth from the pc works great with all other devices, and my AirPods sound great while connected to my phone and being 20 meters away, so it doesn't make sense. It must be some sort of configuration or something related to that, if anyone knows how to fix this it would be greatly appreciated. Some bluetooth expert, please help me fix this

Hey guys, I'm planning to finally upgrade my rig, after many years. Here are the details. Budget: max ˜3000€ (preferably as little as possible though, since I plan on upgrading again in a few years when GTA 6 comes out for PC) Country: Germany Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: GTA 5 (and 6 when it finally comes out :C), Overwatch 2, Red Dead Redemption 2, pretty much everything else, any new AAA games coming out, Software Engineering Stuff (including basic AI/Machine Learning work in the future maybe), Basic video editing (but i mostly edit on my work laptop anyway so not that often), Maybe streaming too?? Other details: Upgrading from Prebuilt PC (from Hyrican): Motherboard: Gigabyte H110M-S2HP (can't even update BIOS because of Hyrican proprietary software) GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 960 xD RAM: 16GB RAM DDR4 CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 CPU 3.40 GHz (8CPUs) OS: Windows 10 Home 64 Bit (can't upgrade to Windows 11 bcs CPU is too old - but I also probably can't reuse this license for the new PC so it doesn't matter i think) Planning to Upgrade to (see screenshots): Motherboard: MSI MAG Z790 TOMAHAWK WIFI GPU: Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB (I wasn't sure which company I should buy this from, or how big the difference between ASUS and MSI is, for instance) RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair RM1000x (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Case Fans: 5x Noctua Ax25 chromax 60.09 CFM 120 mm Fan Total Cost right now: around 2500 euros I am playing on a 1080p MSI Monitor with 360Hz Refresh Rate and GSync. I will buy a secondary Monitor that is either 1440p or 4k, for media consumption and games that look pretty instead of shooters where i need faster refresh rate. I am planning to buy the build at the beginning of June, or today if I can find a way to finance the graphics card and CPU with monthly installments (and also add 2 more years of extra warranty on top of the EU legal minimum). I went with the i7 instead of the i9 after comparing them on UserBenchmark and noticing that the i9 is 200 euros more and only gives around 5% more performance on avg. Similar thing for the GPU - The 4070Ti comes 4th in performance and costs half of the price of the 1st (4090). I don't need THAT much power right now, since I am planning to upgrade to the absolute best whenever GTA 6 comes out, so I can play everything on absolute Ultra and get the most FPS then. I was really unsure which Case and Motherboard to go with after this. For motherboard, I care about the basics being as new as possible. The latest PCIe Generation, DDR5 Memory, stuff like that. I don't care about Wifi, Bluetooth and all the extra stuff - I won't use it. But I'm not sure if I even NEED the latest basics I mentioned with this build. (I do want DDR5 RAM though) I don't give a crap about case looks, I just need airflow and function. Which is why I thought this one is good, since I watched a Linus Video on it. But I need a USB adapter for this (see warnings in Screenshot), but I probably won't use USB Type C anyway so... At the end I thought it was kind of weird that I cut slight corners for the GPU and CPU but went overboard with Power Supply, Memory, Motherboard, CPU Fan... Do you guys think it makes sense, since I want to upgrade in the near future again? Can i reuse any components from this build then (say I'll just upgrade the GPU and CPU when GTA 6 comes out, keep the motherboard and everything else. will that work with this build?) IMPORTANT QUESTION: IIRC, there was an issue with NVIDIA's 4000 series where the cables were melting. I saw lots of articles about it then. Something about the cables being wobbly??? Has that been fixed, is it something I need to worry about with my graphics card? How can I check? Given this info, do you guys have any recommendations and tips?

Hello everyone! I was just wodering, Ive got a fresh usb drive (sandisk) and wanted to backup some files. While it works for any folder, the one I acutally need to backup won't transfer. Nothing happens at all. Interesting is that I cannot even put it on my desktop either. Anyone Know's why that happens? and how to fix it?

About two years ago, I got this laptop, an Asus GA503QR. It has: Ryzen 9 5900HS RTX 3070 laptop 16 GB of DDR4-3200 MHz 8 GB are soldered to the motherboard 8 GB are on a SODIMM (stock: Samsung M471A1G44AB0-CWE) Timing (from CPU-Z): CL: 22.0, tRCD: 22, tRP: 22, tRAS: 52, tRC: 74, CR: 1T Weirdly, the motherboard-soldered RAM doesn't seem to show up in CPU-Z (in the .txt report). I'm not sure if I missed it or what - if you know how to find this, please let me know, as that could be helpful here. I went and purchased what I assume to be the higher capacity version of the same thing: the M471A2K43DB1-CWE. It's a 16 GB (2Rx8) SODIMM at the same frequency, and I figured, being from the same manufacturer and having a quite similar product number, it would work well. Nope. It seems that it was a great fan of random BSODs, all the time (I can't find them in my Event Viewer, but they were "Memory management" along with a few others.) I've since gone back to the OEM RAM, but I'd really like to have more than the 16GB. Any ideas as to how I could give this more RAM without all the crashing? Thank you for any help/advice - I'd love to be able to have a bit more RAM here.

Hasee s7-ta5nb WIN10 I5-11260H. I tried to download some newer versions and they are working but i need the CV slider to be enabled so only solution is 6.5.2.4 ver. I installed it and faced an error: drivers are not present etc... i tried to use intel DSA but it says i have no drivers to update. i dont really understand what the problem might be.. at my PC any version of XTU works fine. any thoughts? Only solution i found is to use quick CPU to manipulate the CV but this is alternative program and i'd like to solve this problem with XTU

I just had a new pc built, it has a asus tuf x570, ryzen 7 5800x, 32gb ram, zotac rtx 3060 & a 850w psu. My monitor is a gigabyte m32uc. Whenever I boot up my pc it turns the monitor on, I get the asus tuf animation & then it goes black, I know the monitor Is on & I can hear sounds but again the screen is black. In order for me to see my home screen in windows I have to power the monitor off and turn it back on again every time. I can't figure out what's wrong & there is no led indicator coming from the mb. I also have a webcam & printer connected to the pc. It wasn't an issue when I was testing it with a 1080p monitor.

Hi all, I just updated my TUF 4090 non OC to 531.41 (had the same problem with 531.29 prev.) and both my monitors (2x zowie 2730 (144hz)) went black. I tried switching back to the older version but still the same problem. I interchanged the DP cables but they are not the Problem. I then saw that the first monitor is running on 60 hz instead of the usual 144hz. So I switched the second Monitor to 120 hz and it works. I then changed back to 144hz and it went black again. Same happens with the other Monitor. I went around this with switching both Monitors to 120hz but I have a few games a I can not play because I get a black screen when I start them. I also have turned off the forced Gsync in the Nvidia Control Panel, but that also did not help. Maybe anyone has had a similar experience and knows a work around or fix? Thanks & have great weekend

Hello, this is my summarized Home Network Diagram. Hardware Used: 1. Wiring - CAT6 UTP Cable with Closed Ended RJ45 (Self Crimped) from Fiber Modem to Router 2. 2. Fiber Modem (ONT) - Huawei EchoLife HG8245H with 4 Gigabit Port 3. Unmanaged Switch - Tenda SG105 (with 5 Gigabit Ports) - Connected via LAN 2 from Modem and Connected to Passive PoE LAN Port 4. Passive Gigabit PoE Injector and Splitter - Generic (see attached image)- PoE to PoE connection using CAT6 UTP around 60 meters length with some running on outdoor wall (far from powerlines and other electronics) 5. Router 2 (Upstairs Router) - Tenda AC23 - Gigabit WAN and LAN ports (AP Mode connected via WAN from Passive Gigabit PoE LAN port) Additional Hardware (No Issues) 6. Router 1 (Downstairs Router - besides Fiber Modem) - Tenda AC21 - Gigabit WAN and LAN ports (AP Mode connected via WAN from Modem) Issues: Configuration 1A - Current Setup. With my current setup, the link speed recognized by the Fiber Modem on LAN 2 is 100Mbps Full Duplex Mode. Connected to the Router 1, the speed test (using Ookla) reading (using 5GHz Connection via Android Phone) Exceeded 100Mbps, around 150Mbps+ (Internet limited plan to 100Mbps). Connected to the Router 2, the speed test (using 5GHz) does not exceed 100Mbps around 90Mbps at best. Configuration 1B - Current Setup after a Power Outage. Currently the Modem Reported 1000Mbps Full Duplex Mode (due to power outage, all routers restarted) but readings are still similar Configuration 2 - No Gigabit PoE With PoE injector and splitter remove, connected directly to Switch and Router 2 (still Port 2 and WAN) the Fiber Modem reports 100Mbps. Results are similar to the Configuration 1A. Configuration 3 - No Switch Connecting Router 2 (WAN Port) to Modem (LAN Port 2) via Straight CAT6 resulting to the router and modem disconnecting and connecting with a span of seconds (5 seconds at most) with link speed reporting between 10Mbps and 100Mbps Full Duplex Mode. But when the connection is stable at best it is reporting 10Mbps. Tried using Crossover CAT6 using Female to Female RJ45 and Additional Crossover CAT6 with less than 2meter length. Configuration 4 - Connected to Router 1 Connecting Router 2 (WAN Port) to Router 1 (LAN Port 2) via Straight CAT6 resulting to consistent connection with readings at best of around 9 Mbps. Assuming the link speed would be 10 Mbps. No Reporting of LAN Port link speed on the firmware. I would like to know some solutions to my network to use 1 Gbps link speeds for full capacity of the routers, as well as future proofing. Thank you for your help and responds.

Hi all, Need some help trying to resolve an issue.. Intent : Want 2 Pc's to both use 1 speaker-set to minimise space/equipment needed. Result : I have connected everything up and it worked great... until i shut down 1 of the PC's.. the remaining PC thats still on now has no sound, if i reboot the turned-off PC, sound from both PC's returns.. Equipment : PC1 = Ryzen 5 5600, 16GB, RTX2060, Onboard sound & windows 10 : Audio output has a 1m, 3poll, 3.5mm stereo extention cable thats plugged into (Audio-Splitter) PC2 = Intel i5 4460, 16GB, GTX1050ti, Onboard sound & windows 10 : Audio output has a 1m, 3poll, 3.5mm stereo extention cable thats plugged into (Audio-Splitter) AUDIO-SPLITTER = 1 x 3poll, 3.5mm stereo female thats plugged into my Logitech Z333 for output & 2 x 3poll, 3.5mm stereo males that are plugged into PC1&2's extenstion cable. Short version.. Logitech Z333 into Y splitter, then the Y has 1m extensions going to each PC Both Pc's turned on = Both send sound to Speakers 1 PC turned off = No sound from PC thats on 1 PC turned off & phisically unplug the cable from the turned off PC = Have sound from PC thats on

Ok, so. My HPLV2011 Monitor doesn't change correctly the resolution I want, and always displays on 1600x900 and for example, if I want to use 800x600 (for some reason) I will see the screen like a tiny rectangle and around all in black or the classic black stripes at the sides on 1440x900, additional info: I use an adapter to pass from HDMI on my laptop (Win732bit) to the VGA monitor. I hope is a driver issue but if is the adapter I will cry. I will answer your questions as fast as I can. ->>> I want the screen to be scaled to the full screen and not see empty/black spaces.

Hello, I am currently having issues with youtube and playing games at the same time. I like to have youtube on one of my other monitors while i play, but recently while my game plays fine the youtube video lags and drops frames when im in the game. Turning off hardware acceleration on brave seems to fix it, but i am wondering if there is a way i can fix it without turning that off? since having that disabled breaks a bunch of other websites or makes other websites slow / laggy. Thank You

Hi, I've been trying to update my Aorus Monitor CV27F to latest Firmware because I am facing flickering issue and brightness or contrast issue as well when the game is a bit dark, even when I'm watching movies it keeps happening. But the main problem is that the Browse button is disabled! I tried everything to enable it, I tried running the .bin file directly but without success... Did anyone face this issue? Any help would be much appreciated guys, Thanks a lot in advance

Msi gv62 8rd laptop. Suddenly crashed a few days ago. Idk y. Went through the usual troubleshooting process (remove power cord, clear cmos, remove battery, press power button for 30s and then take out 2x 8GB RAM kit 2400mhz). After plugging back power and battery I tried the following (removing power and battery +clear cmos every time) Tried resitting both ram sticks - won't boot. Tried stick A in slot 1 - boot Tried stick A in slot 2 - won't boot. Tried stick B in slot 1 - won't boot. Stick B in slot 2 - won't boot. (here I thought that one ram slot was dead and it somehow fried 1 stick) With stick A in slot 1, booted, and went to order a 16gb 2400mhz stick with same timings (wanted to at least run in single channel but with same memory size as before) as this laptop should support up to 32gb (2x 16gb). Stick C (16gb) în slot 1 - won't boot. C in slot 2 - won't boot A in slot 1+C in s2 - won't boot. C in s1 + A in slot 2 - won't boot. (now I'm definetly scared) Tried updating the bios to the most up to date version I could find. C in slot 1/2 - won't boot A in slot 1 OR 2 - boot B in slot 1/2 - won't boot (sooo now I think I have 1 dead ram stick B, 2 good ram sticks A and C but laptop won't start with C anywhere but WILL boot with A in both slot 1 and slot) Googled a bit. - went to msconfig > boot> advanced >max memory (wasn't selected but when checked the box it filled in with 8gb > set this to 24gb and shut down the laptop, remove power, clear cmos, remove battery, press the power button for 30s) C in slot 1/2 - won't boot A+C/C+A - won't boot. A in slot 1/2 - boot. Please help as I don't know what else to do rn and really won't like to run on just 8gb plus that I bought a new 16gb stick. Should I increase the max memory from msconfig to 32gb? Any suggestions please?

I received a prebuilt not too long ago from the notoriously overpriced Dell Alienware company from a friend, the prebuilt being an R13 Aurora. I'm looking for ways to improve the airflow in the case built only to look pretty. It currently sits on my rug underneath my desk against the corner of my room due to my desk being L shaped, and my room temperature is always 21 c (70 f) or slightly higher on hotter days. The following are the specifications: 12th Gen Intel® Core™ i5-12400F 2.50 GHz EVGA Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070 Super 8GB GDDR6 750W PSU 1st monitor: 144hz 1920x1080 2nd monitor: 60hz 1920x1080 24 GB DDR5 ram 23.8 usable PNY CS900 500gb, ST1000DM010 931 GB, and NVMe SN810 1024 GB storage 64-bit x64 Windows 11 Home and in the included picture includes the oddly placed 4 fans and the alienware "cryo"tech cpu cooler Any and all suggestions are helpful; I use msi afterburner to control fan speeds automatically with a curve; if I didn't, I'm sure it would go above 89 when playing intensive graphic demanding games. I avoid overclocking; and I'd say I do a good job of keeping my computer clean of malware and whatnot. (GPU removed prior to img being taken)

After no more than a few months of using my new prebuilt (non linus built), it started stuttering and closing applications randomly in addition to getting stuck on key inputs. I practice internet safety (obviously) and have scanned the system for issues/viruses. The only issues that were found were some outdated audio drivers, but I have since updated them and nothing has been fixed. If any of you have any ideas, I would be glad to answer any questions. Edit: Build is from Best Buy at this link: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypower-tracemr-gaming-desktop-intel-i7-12700f-16gb-ddr4-3200-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-3070-1tb-nvme-ssd-black/6500558.p?skuId=6500558

I have checked the temps with HWmonitor and everything seems fine. It only seems to do it while I play games, the monitors (both of them) will turn off and after a few seconds I can hear sound again even through my headset but the monitors will not come back on. I let the PC idle all night and it was fine, I kicked back the GPU drivers just in case it was Nvidia and it still seems to do it. I am not getting any hardware driver errors in windows, Event Viewer doesn't seem to be any help just registers that I had to power down after the monitor black out. The only weird thing is it sometimes it won't boot successfully after forced shutdown but it will the second time. Any other suggestions? Idle temps attached. I know it's probably the MOBO but I am trying to avoid it ASUS PRIME Z490-V INTEL i7-10700K NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 2060 SUPER Corsair CMWX8GD3200C16W4 ADATA SU630 Samsung SSD 870 QVO 2TB HWMonitor.txt

I was using my PC, not doing anything that should be particularly strenuous on it (watching YouTube) when it suddenly shut down. This happens around 4 hours before making this post and since then I have been trying anything to get it working again. Here is a timeline: June/July 2022 (don't have a receipt with exact date) - HDD August 2022 - CPU & Motherboard November 2022 - RAM, case, PSU, NVME SSD December 2022 - Built it Last week (Feburary 15th) - GPU & GPU installation Today (Feburary 24th) - Won't boot I don't believe that the issue is GPU related. CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor Motherboard: Asus PRIME B550M-A (WI-FI) Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory Storage: 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2 PCI-E x4 SSD, 1TB Storage: Seagate IronWolf NAS 4 TB 3.5" 5900 RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: GeForce RTX 3060 Dual V2 OC Edition 8GB PCI-E Video Card, White w/ Single HDMI, Triple DisplayPort Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair RM Series RM650 650 Watt 80 PLUS Gold What I have tried: Clearing CMOS Booting outside of case Changing RAM slots and using only one stick Reseating cables and CPU Clearing CMOS again Booting with integrated graphics The PSU fans spin, and so did the CPU/case fans on boot. I could also hear the HDD spin along with the RGB on my mouse turn on for a split second, but those seem to be the only signs of life. I haven't ever had any issues with this build before hand either. If I was to guess what the issue was my main assumption would be a dead motherboard. I don't known anyone with a AMD motherboard but someone might be able to test the RAM/PSU. I bought all of the parts from Memory Express. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!

So basically my pc runs and performs normally, it doesn’t shut down when it’s working hard it can also occur when I’m just using google. i know the issue isn’t any corrupted software because I completely wiped my pc and it still happens. the pc also doesn’t overheat. also it’s not a crash since it doesn’t make any noise or keeps an image on the screen it just dies as if you turn it off. What can this be, are any of my parts fucked or something ? please help. build: cpu:i5-9600KF gpu: rtx 2070 super ram: random 16 gb ssd: Samsung sdd 970 evo plus 500 gb hdd: Toshiba hdwd120 psu: silverstone uhh don’t remember the name but it’s 800 watts bronze motherboard: asrock z390

Hey friends, I'm new to LTT forums and I have no clue if this has already been asked/posted about (I can't find a simple way to search throughout the forum lmao) so I'm just making one to be sure. I've been having this issue ever since I own a personal computer -and actually care for performance/usability- which I've always ignored but I just decided to search further on it. It started with my (now 6 years old) laptop in both Windows 10/11, as well as my (newer, 1 year old) desktop gaming PC in both Windows 10/11 as well. I'll describe the issue in my desktop PC since I never really have my laptop running at idle. I have set my power plan to never put the computer to sleep automatically, and turn off the display after 15 minutes. During the entire time the PC is idle, it works just as expected, however after the 15 minutes when the display turns off, one of my hard drives (more specifically a 3'5" 1TB HDD) which is not a system disk, gets pinned to 100% usage and doesn't come down until I move the mouse/press a key to turn the display back on. What could the root of this issue be? Has this been a Windows issue since forever? My PC supports S3 power state, hibernation, and fast boot (afaik). My random guess is some file in that HDD is somehow being called when the display is off, and since it's not a system disk I just can't get my head around it. If you need more information just let me know, I have a medium-low understanding on overall tech stuff, but it only goes so far lol.

I have an old PC that I am trying to fix. It didn't seem to power on at first but buying a similar used motherboard it kind of worked. The computer seems to have powered on. Sometimes it even gets to the splash screen (shuts down like 0.1 second after tho). I have already tried 2 GPU's, and like 5 PSU's (4 of them were 300 - 350 watts, and one of them was 450 watts, but that one didn't even get to the splash screen once). I've tried 8 RAM sticks, some of them did get to the splash, some didn't. Specs: Gigabyte GA-M57SLI-S4 (rev 2.0) - Motherboard AMD Athlon 64 X2 5600 - CPU Asus EN6600/TD/128M/A + Sapphire Radeon X1650 Pro Ultimate 256MB DDR3 - GPU's 4x Kingston KVR667D2N5/1G (In the image I provided, only one is inserted for troubleshooting resons) - RAM Arctic 64 - CPU Cooler FSP ATX-300PNF - Power supply PS: In the provided video, the splash screen did not show up. Cheers, Stephen 1547048523_VID_20230130_180443(1).mp4

I am having an issue with my GPU. I don't know if this is coil whine, but it's pretty annoying and only happens when the GPU has a load. I have raised a ticket with MSI to see what they think. I am also having booting issues with this GPU.; for example, the system's black screens and my motherboard settings go back to default. I know this because the LEDs on my motherboard turn on when I have this set off. My workaround is to turn the computer off (by the PSU because the system does not allow me to turn off the computer by the power button )(The LED on the motherboard flashes until I let go of the power button), disconnect the GPU (take it out of the motherboard) take the motherboard battery out turn the system on then plug everything back in (battery and GPU). Then it works like normal, and my Bios is back to the setting that I set am wondering what could the issue. I have left an audio file so you can hear what the nosie sounds like. Ryzen 1700 B450M GAMING (1.x) gigabyte 950 watt PSU MSI GT 1030 2GB Passive LP OC Graphics Card 32GB of Kingston ram 3600 HX436C18FB4K2/32 (am pretty sure its not supported but still works) Record-003 (1).aac