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I'm thinking of moving to a smaller keyboard but I don't want it to be wireless. I've seen some solid deals on complete Wired/BT/Wireless multi-connection keyboards and I'm tempted to just remove the battery and leave it in a wired mode, since I don't plan on having the battery discharging and don't want a swelling battery under my fingers. Has anyone done this and experienced issues from the battery being removed? Or has it been fine? My gut tells me its the latter.

This is just something I want to try. It's a shot in the dark but I have an old PS4 and I want to make use of the hardware in that to create an external GPU.

Soo I have an old laptop lying around, everything still working. Spec: GTX 850M, SSD storage, 8GB RAM. I was wondering if it's possible to repurpose it into something useful I can use.

One thing that bugs me about the Apple’s HopePod and HomePod Mini is that we get locked into what Apple considers a good speaker. Don’t get me wrong, as someone who’s owned all three generations of HomePods they do sound great for what they are. A while back I saw the tear down by IFIXIT about the Mini and it got me thinking. Apple, surprisingly, didn’t use a proprietary connector for the speaker, nor did they solder it directly to the PCB. Apple used screws! This made me think, can I connect the Mini to any speaker I want? The answer is yes. Yes I can. Fast forward to today and I decided to see what makes the Mini tick for myself. It’s surprising simple on the inside. Other than the weird fabric cover it was easy to take apart AND put back together. I forgot to take pictures as I was working on this little project but I did take some after shots and the guide by IFIXIT does a great job at explaining things. After removing the original speaker I used my trusty soldering iron to take the funky little terminals that Apple used and slapped them on some normal speaker wire. From there I removed a few of Apple’s little sound slots near the power cord to run the speaker wire through, a corresponding hole in the mesh, slapped it all back together, and hey presto I had a HomePod Mini that I could connect to any speaker I like. I know that there are AirPlay 2 adapters out there and I could use an AirPort Express (I’m already running several of those around the house) but I wanted to have the smart features. Being able to use my voice is convenient and it works seamlessly with the other HomePods I have. If you can’t tell by now I’m a wh**e for Apple. (I do have a gaming PC though) The Mini seems to have more than enough to power the speakers I’ve thrown at it. I’m labeling this as revision #1, I plan on changing some things in future versions. Some of the things I have in mind are: Finding a location to run the wires out of that allows the Mini to sit without needing a stand Figure out how to get both layers of fabric put back into place Maybe install some type of terminal instead of hardwiring EQ board??? Built in battery I should also make it clear that I am not a sound engineer. I am a manufacturing engineer. If you’ve made it to the bottom of this without jumping to the comments then I appreciate you. I know there is a lot that I did wrong here, I do not have the equipment or knowledge to do this “right”. As such, here are some other things that I am aware of: No clue what the built in amp can safely handle No clue if Apple has any safety features built in No sure what the ohm rating of the speaker that Apple used is I’ve glanced around the World Wide Web and haven’t found anyone else doing this but if anyone knows of a similar mod I’d love to know about it. Let me know if you think this is stupid or if Apple should create a smart speaker amp.

Can you make your own DIY cable modem out of old computer parts?

so, we all seen how much of a hack job Linus and Alex did with their car radiator 2 years back. right? I wanted to do it better. Note that this was done BEFORE the current water cooled car rad from a week ago. but I digress. The goal: In Wisconsin, outside temps can get to about 80 to 90F with near 60 to 80% humidity. My room can get to a scorching 80F from my PC which is almost always folding at home or playing Hunt: Showdown. Needless to say, I was tired of the heat and I wish there was a better way! but there is a way: cooling my PC down stairs in the basement. but I'm not Linus, I dont have a grand to spend on a Fiber optic cables and have my monitors and peripherals sent up to my room. so the backup plan is to buy a Car Rad and send down tubes from my already water-cooled system to the basement. The plan: Taking insperation from Linus's video from 2 years ago. but better and done "right." (foreshadowing) I needed a car rad, Bulk soft tubes that are 3/8th, Fittings from the hardware store, a few 2020 extruded aluminum, angle brackets, a aquarium pump and a way to protect the PC incase of pump failure. this seems easy but cost is kinda up there. but we can split it up by buying a few parts per month as we need them. Action: The entire build is depended on the car radiator. during this phase, I had a lot of questions. What size tubes from the Rad am I going to need to adapt? how much aluminum am I going to need? will I need a fan? and the most important part: How clean/used is the rad. A quick Facebook market place search yielded a BRAND NEW NEVER BEEN USED Car radiator for a Subaru forester! Perfect! The kind old man bought the wrong part. so I'd take it off his hands for $40. We dont need to worry about cleaning the rad inside and out. After Obtaining the Rad. we have a few problems to solve. The tubes from the Rad are about 1 inch DIA. we need to reduce the size to 3/8ths. A trip the the hardware store yielded fittings, barbed fittings, 1 inch dia clear soft tube and hose clamps to secure it all. so we are good. the next issue is how am I going to mount it? well 2020 aluminum will do the trick ($69.99 on amazon(Nice)). we will build a box around the aluminum which will hold the rad up right and kinda protect it if we are moving it around (see image 1). The rad didn't have a radiator cap so I had to go to the automotive store to get one for $12. I'm not going to worry about the reservoir since the rad is already going to take up about 3/4ths of a gallon of distilled water (and 2 bottles of EK coolant concentrate $50). I got a variable speed aquarium pump that had the head lift for about 12 feet. since I didn't know what Gal per min I needed and I also wanted something to last. it was about $60. Few days later Bulk tubing came in from amazon ($21). as well as the pump. lets test it See image 2, 3 and last. under max load from F@H. I dropped CPU temps from 80c to 56c. I also Dropped GPU temps from 60c to 35. this is going to work! Not so Fast: instead of using plumbers tape. I used paste. looks like some of that stuff got into the GPU water block. welp. Time to clean it out and its not the first time something like this happen. so I took apart the GPU water block. cleaned it out and I installed a gas Filter into my water loop before the PC and after the Pump (see 4). I had to use the gas filter before to clean out the "bubble sponge" out of my system. so I just reused it. I left the gas filter in for insurance and to slow the pump flow a little to improve heat transfer to the coolant. I did this because I don't remember the correct flow rate that actual water cooling loops used. I'm tired of typing and ADHD meds is out of my system. NEXT and final post will continue tomorrow. which will talk about the PC safety and minor adjustments. part two is up. we talk about galvanic corrosion, Pump failure and little about why I did it this way.

1. Why SSDs & Build Goals: While my use case does not require the blazing fast speeds provided by SSDs, the goal of my build is to be efficient with cost, space, energy usage, upgradability, reliability, and noise. I am aware that doing something with HDDs is probably more sensible given the cost difference but believe the upgrades in reliability and performance are an ok trade off. Additionally, since I do not need massive amounts of space, SSDs should be fine. I would not have planned out this build without the seemingly gigantic price drop we are seeing in flash storage. For context I added a 2TB SK Hynix Gold Drive to my laptop in 2021 for the price of 245 USD. That same drive can be had for 94 dollars as of writing. So you may ask why not consider a prebuilt? Linus and a lot of other youtubers have recently showcased a prebuilt NVME nas called the Flashstor by Asustor. It is offered either 6 "bay" and 2x 2.5GbE ports, or 12 "bay" with a single 10GbE port. I would be interested in this if the CPU was either more powerful or upgradable. I also acknowledge that these prebuilt devices likely have a huge power efficiency advantage over my DIY plans. My plan is to deploy the NAS and have it be a long lived device since my planned build is likely overkill for my use case but it should offer room to grow albeit in a design that is inherently limited by my underlined goals above. 2. My constraints: While a departure from what I assume is typical NAS parts selection guidance, I have targeted a mini ITX form factor and am using a Fractal ridge for it's small footprint. 3. My Purchased and Planned for Purchased Part List (Planned for purchase items marked with *): Component Selection Price CPU* Intel Core i3-12100 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor $114.99 Motherboard* ASRock Z690M-ITX/ax Mini ITX LGA1700 Motherboard $149.99 Memory* Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $44.99 OS Drive SK Hynix mSATA 6 Gbps Drive $0.00 Bulk Storage* Samsung 870 EVO 4TB $169.00 Bulk Storage* Samsung 870 EVO 4TB $169.00 Bulk Storage* Samsung 870 EVO 4TB $169.00 Bulk Storage* Samsung 870 EVO 4TB $169.00 Case Fractal Ridge $149.85 Power Supply* Silverstone SFX 500 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply $113.00 4. Where I could use some help - Software configuration: I am a total noob when it comes to NAS OS options, and capabilities. I have tinkered with Linux but am certainly a novice. It is also important to consider what I would be doing with the NAS. My plan is to essentially use it as bulk storage for a few different client devices. Most of the data stored on the NAS would be come from a Windows PC, but I would also like to allow backing up files from mobile devices (which should be as simple as establishing a shared folder and accessing over wifi). My motherboard choice above includes 2 ethernet ports one 2.5Gb. It would be great if there was a way to configure a direct 2.5 gig connection between the windows machine and the NAS, while connecting the one gigabit port to my wifi router. If possible I would like to use UrBackup. Now comes the hypothetical part that was a contributing factor in the DIY approach as opposed to prebuilt: the Linus backed NAS project. If Linus' use case of enabling an encrypted peer to peer back up becomes a reality I would like to jump on board that platform one day. But until that becomes available I need something in the short-medium term. That is where I could use some help. Here are the software configuration options I am considering for now: OS Option 1 Open Media Vault: Pros: Allows for Docker which I could maybe use to install UrBackup into Has built in auto sleep / shutdown tools so the NAS can be put to sleep I am assuming I could configure Wake on LAN so the client could initiate backups Software RAID functionality Cons: I assume there will be some bottleneck if UrBackup is running inside of a container OS Option 2 Ubuntu Server: Pros: Lightweight OS, configurable Cons: For me probably higher learning curve without GUI (even though one could be added) Setting up RAID may be more complex 5. My Miscellaneous Thoughts & Questions: I know based on my PSU choice I will need to get a SATA power splitter my plan is to use this StarTech 4x SATA Power Splitter Adapter I am aware of some of the limitations of RAID, and I will not need to expand the array. Since my goal is to have this NAS as a part of my 3-2-1 backup plan, I think RAID 5 is appropriate. The Samsung EVO SSDs are rated at a 2400 TBW. I think one fault tolerance should give me a fairly long lifespan. In the event of a failure I would replace the dead drive with another 4TB drive (ideally from Samsung). Regardless of the OS I use should I use the RAID options built in to the motherboard? You will notice I have marked as an OS Drive a mSATA drive that I have pulled from my deceased Surface Pro 3. I have struggled to get a clear answer if I can adapt this to an m.2 NVME slot on the motherboard. I referred to the motherboard manual and recognize that it has a 2280 slot with Key M. Would I be able to use an adapter like this to install the drive into the motherboard of my planned NAS? Here is a relevant quote from the motherboard manual: "The Hyper M.2 Socket (M2_2, Key M) supports type 2280 SATA3 6.0 Gb/s & PCIe Gen4x4 (64 Gb/s) modes." Since this is a NAS, and I don't plan on doing any GPU intensive applications, integrated graphics should be sufficient. It is my intention that 12 TB of useable space is more than enough for today and should offer lots of room to grow. BUT since future proofing is somewhat of a futile game, I figured I could always use my PCIE x16 connection to expand my storage if necessary Now this looks like it could get complicated. I know there are PCIE carrier cards but I am unclear if my motherboard + CPU platform would support them. If I had this ASUS Hyper m2 Card would I be able to access all 4 drives? Intel has a VROC technology for virtual RAID specifically geared towards servers. I don't believe my platform will allow that. However it does say it supports Intel VMD (Volume Management Device). I appreciate any suggestions or feedback! Thanks!

Hello, I recently had a portable hard drive fail which resulted in losing access to all my data. I had used the drive to store images, videos, games and other stuff I felt important to store which is now unfortunately all gone. Before this, I never knew it was a rule of thumb to have backups for a backup as I believed that it would never die in such a way and I know now that thinking so was a costly mistake. This made me start looking into various home server and backup solutions especially ones that I build myself from used and refurbished desktops as I would like to keep costs to a minimum and for the learning experience before I move on to more expensive solutions. I want to build a storage that I would mainly use simply for backing up or storing files and data that exists separately from my PC which I do not need to access remotely. Right now, I have 2TB of data that exists only on a portable hard drive and I want something reliable where I can move all that data into. I would like to future proof the system with at least 8TB of pure storage (meaning I would have 8TB of data to backup or store in the near future) and I never want it to fail (meaning I don't want to lose all my data because of a mechanical or software failure). I therefore, request advice or guidance on understanding how I can do so using an old or used desktop (or parts) that I would source from local used stores and online retailers. I want help with understanding the hardware and software (if applicable) requirements for building such a device. How many drives should I get? How big should each drive be? I read about something called a NAS, is this something I should consider if I only (I think) need extended storage? Is it possible to connect to the machine from my pc and not buy a separate monitor? If so, how do I access it (I was unable to find proper information on using a pc to connect to another pc)? Is it just by using a LAN cable? I am a complete beginner to storage and backup in general and I am open to elaborating anything you may feel I may have not explained or considered. Thank you for reading and I appreciate any advice you may have for me.

Is this possible?

I am planning to build a NAS and it will be my first time. I am picking up the Dell OPTIPLEX 3020; i5 4590, 4g ram, and 500HDD. What OS will you recommend? the OS to use that I know so far is True NAS, are there any other options? My main goal for this NAS is to store my photos, videos, etc outside my pc and is accessible with my laptop, and phone and could be shared with someone. (ie siblings, partners) I will upgrade the PC with a 128gb SATA ssd and 2 clone HDDs. Future upgrades would be a GPU (for media server if needed), Ram (if needed), and PSU (if needed) I want to perform as follows: 1. Could access the NAS locally and outside (with my phone or laptop) 2. It is secure 3. RAID 1 for data protection 4. Maybe will run a server (for future projects; Media server, ad block, home automation)

I plan to use mini-box's openups to power a minipc and a few other electronics related to building a laptop. While i've read all documentation several times, I was wondering if anyone has experience pushing it past the 6amp nominal load rating to the 10amp peak rating. Im not unfamiliar to cooling mods and was under the assumption I would be making a custom heat sink for it, along with one for my 7940hs as its stock cooler is limited to only 90w(ships @ 65w), 120-150w being the goal for this gen and next gens peak apu.

My work laptop is an ASUS VivoBook Laptop X513EA-K513EA while my personal laptop that I use for light gaming is an MSI GF63-Thin 11SC. As seen on the pictures below, the display of the ASUS is more "cool" to my eyes than the MSI. Are these caused by the displays or by the GPU? Can I swap these displays directly or will the colors be the same even if I swap them? From panelook.com, the MSI(Chi Mei N156HCA-EAB) and the ASUS (Panda LM156LF5L04) both have 30-pin connectors.

hello, its my first time building an fpv drone and i am stuck on how i should solder the x6b receiver to the mamba f405 mk2 v2 stack. i was thinking of connecting yellow to 5v, red to vcc and black to ground, would it be okay? i will share some images of the receiver and flight controller

Water Cooled Laptop, MSI GP66 This linked video is a bit of a TLDR and shows the most current setup of the laptop and radiator stand. There are some gameplay clips at the end and all games are on ultra with RTX on and DLSS on quality in 1080p because that is what my monitor is. The end shows pictures of the cooler in it's different configurations over time. Towards the end of last year I found myself trying to cut up my IETS GT500 cooling pad to replace the fan and make it more quiet. While doing this I came across a series of water cooled laptop videos from LTT and a few others. After finding out about the XMG laptops and their Oasis cooler shortly after, I knew I needed to give it a shot. Cost wise the XMG laptops weren't it for me, I thought I could out do them with a better preforming laptop and a DIY water loop and radiator setup while keeping it as practical if not more. From here, I settled on an MSI GP66 11UH, the most powerful gaming laptop in it's class holding the record of (at the time) 14,057 and a BeQuiet Pure Loop to keep on the idea of keeping things as quiet as possible. Way too many attempts at bending 1/4" copper pipe to match the stock heatsink, 2 broken stock heatsinks, and more SnBi solder than Id like to admit, I had my first iteration of the water cooled GP66 together. The first version used a remote radiator connected by amazon QDC which were soon replaced by Koolance QDC which are nothing short of amazing. I kept with BeQuiet fans and experimented with a few fan variations. Starting with 2 Pure Wings fans and then 4 in a push pull setup I stuck with 4 for a time mainly because the fans helped keep the radiator from getting dinged up in a backpack (did I mention I was taking this with me to work?). Eventually I dialed this in to just 2 Silent Wings 3 fans with higher static pressure. With the water cooling set up, games ran at 15-18* less with no sound from the fans whatsoever. Cinebench gained about 3000 points from air cooling, air cooling still worked perfectly, and I set the now world record score of 14,091 on Time Spy for the 11800h/3080 combo! Time went on and I was hit with a realization, this all started because I wanted a more quiet cooling pad, so why haven't I made this radiator into a cooling pad yet? I ran to MicroCenter and grabbed something I thought would work. Let me take a second to say, the MicroCenter guys in Tustin are troopers; dudes did what they could to help with this madness and not one cracked a laugh when I said I was water cooling a laptop. With some minor modification I rigged up the radiator, reservoir, and voltage regulator to the stand. It still worked, but it degraded the cooling significantly. because there was no bottom if I used the laptop in bed a blanket would block any and all airflow. Regardless of placement, the grating on the top further suffocated the fans trying to blow through them. This reduced the cooling gains from -18* to -10* at best. After giving it some time I flushed the Go Chiller coolant I was trying out (didn't even give it a week and it was causing more liquid to come out of the QDC because of gunking them up) and 'borrowed' my wife's old stand she had for a chrome book. Using zip ties at first it was obvious this stand would be the way to go. The top was unobstructive and the bottom kept the intake fans from being blocked. These two benefits weren't the only things, the cooling actually improved compared to the remote radiator. Keeping about 10mm for the fans to have good airflow, the cool air from the fans (cooler than the laptop at least) was blowing into the intakes of the laptop and helped take off another 2* from when the radiator was remote. This wasn't enough for a substantial boost in benchmarks, but it was enough to keep Cinebench from breaking 92* at the same overclock which had previously been (very slightly) throttling. The final tweak that was made to reduce the profile of the stand was to replace the 4 Pure Wings fans (Burnt out the Silent Wings turning the voltage controller too high on accident) with the Phanteks T30 fans. These beastly fans push more air than the push pull BeQuiet fans and are still unbelievably quiet. Lastly, I also 3d printed a bracket for the Koolance fittings, because they are actually bulkhead fittings because they just weren't amazing enough to begin with. With this setup most games will never break 60*. The only game I have that gets anywhere near 70* is the Dead Space remake. Doom Eternal plays at 60* GPU and 61*CPU (73* 81* on air); Metro Exodus (Enhanced Ed) plays at 59* GPU and 54* CPU (79* 75* on air); and Dead Space plays at 55* GPU 65* CPU (64* 87* on air). On all games the overclock and undervolt need to be dialed back on the CPU to prevent crashing when it gets too hot.

THIS HAS BEEN A ALMOST 4+ YEARS BUILD FOR ME AND I'M FROM THE UNITED STATES. As it states this had been a 4+ years to get to this point to build this SILVER MISFIT. I've honestly have lost count of the cost of everything I've spent on building my system. Where old parts that became spare part to ending up in a second computer I made for someone else but that's for another post and time lol. I original started off with parts list: Case Phanteks Evolv Shift XT(silver)/750w platinum power supply combo(Was inspired by JAYZTWOCENTS from YouTube) Bought from Phanteks MoBo Asus X570I GAMING (ITX) bought through New egg CPU AMD 5600 bought through New Egg CPU COOLER PHANTEKS Glacier One WHITE RGB edition bought from Phanteks(Before they offered bundle with case & power supply) Ram OLOy OWL WHITE RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 3600 bought through New Egg GPU GIGABYTE GTX 1080TI Gaming OC 11g white special edition bought used from ebay during the gpu apocalypse Storage Corsair Mp500 m.2 240gb bought from Newegg back in 2017 lol and the true starting point of this build PNY 1tb 2.5 ssd bought from Walmart Ran my system like that for a couple of months maybe longer. Before I did my first upgrade lol. Which was a ram upgrade by the same manufacturer OLOY and same kit just went from 16g to 32g. Which I also bought on NEWEGG lol. During that time I was looking into parts for a custom waterloop. Where I made my first noob water cooling mistake lol *sigh* I under estimated the size of the pump reservoir combo from Corsair. The one the size of 2 120mm stacked together. Yeah total noob mistake lol and only realized it once I had the box in had looking it over. Talk about a facepalm moment. I should of don't a return of it and got my money back but I decided to keep it. Figured I'd end up using for another build down the road. Which I did lol. Next upgrade I got were some high flow/pressure fans for the radiator on the AIO. Since I couldn't get the Phanteks T30-120 Fan that had come out and JAYZTWOCENTS had demonstrated. Without having to give up a left nut to scalpers. I instead bought a set of EK-Furious Meltemi 120 (1200-3500rpm) lol what I didn't realize was these were 35mm and wouldn't quite let the top of the fast go back on by a few mm. So I just ended leaving the top sitting on top not latched. As I was gathering all the water cooling pieces I needed to complete loop V1 Decided to go for all white fittings as an accent cooler matching with the ram and duktape was using around the fan edges of the AIO radiator since didn't have gaff tape like JAYZTWOCENTS lol. Hey it worked to help the air going through the radiator better. Help cool by at least 5° c. As for the fittings I bought a mix of Corsair, FreezeMod, and Barrow. I also decided to go soft tubing route at first to make it easier on myself with my first loop and allow me to do a proff of concept on the loop on how I wanted to do it. Which was 10mm ID/13mm OD 3/8in x 1/2in. Which was by PRIMOFLEX 10ft box bundle. The radiator I decided to go with Alphacool NexXxos ST30 V2 Full Copper Radiator 240, 120mm x 2, Dual Fan, Black because of the fact it had 5 g 1/4 ports. Which 4 were basically back to back which would be needed for me to fill the loop since I wasn't going to be able to run a reservoir in the loop do to lack of space and not trying to spend too much on water cooling parts lol The pump I finally found and would work for my build Ek-Loop DDC 4.2 PWM. It was the perfect size to fit in this SFF case and partly why I went with the tube size I picked lol For the waterblocks. I chose to go with what I could find without having to give up a body part to afford them lol. For the CPU I went with Hydro X Series XC7 White and for the GPU Bykski Gigabyte GTX 1080Ti Gaming OC 11G Full Coverage GPU Water Block - Clear (N-GV1080TIG1-X). As for the fluid I went with Corsair Hydro X clear premix since could get it cheap and I didn't feel like using any color fluid at the time. Here's pics of my very first loop from the sides only and before I filled the loop. Forgot to take more pics after getting it filled and system up and running. After a few months of having my system like that and using it on my days off I decided that I was ready to go hard line but before I could do that. I had to source a new top for the pump that would let me use g1/4 fittings. Which I found used on ebay and was the EK-XTOP DDC - Plexi that I ended up having to buy EKs mounting hardware since didn't get it when I bought the block. Then after watching another JAYZTWOCENTS upload lol I decided on what hard tubing I wanted to use after seeing the corsair frosted tubing he showed that looked amazing! And had to use it myself lol loop V2 first hard line set up pics incoming lol Yeah I know that the cleanest hard line setup on the gpu side or the cable management lol but considering this was my first time and made it harder on myself by watching to make sure both the gpu and the cpu got the coolest coming from the radiator. Which I saw as a must for my SFF BUILD. I have to say it came out pretty good. OH! At this point I also had come across a screaming deal I would of been stupid to past up on ebay for a brand new in box unopened 5900X for the price of a 5800X but not installed yet. Then my next upgrade after a few more months was a GPU I picked up on Ebay when prices had dropped for some new gen GPUs. I scored a Zotac RTX AMP HALO 8GB NON LHR version with waterblock just over MSRP and got ahold of a set of Phanteks T30-120 fans(3pack) finally straight from Phanteks but also decided the radiator wasn't thick enough to handle the heat soak that happens during long game playing since loop would start reaching up into the high 60°c to mid/high 70°c. I know this thanks to a temp sensor I put into the loop where I had the coolant coming out of the pump before splitting to go to the GPU/CPU and would randomly check Temps through Fan control and recommendation I got from JAYZTWOCENTS lol High Jay if you or your team is reading this by now but I digress... lol anyways.... as I was saying. I decided to also upgrade the radiator to a THICK BOY as Jay would say lol and since EKWB had a sale going on for the Monoblock for the ASUS X570I GAMING. I also picked that up since it was half of what is used to cost. Why not at this point lol and found a deal on deal on a 64g 4000mhz kit by OLOY on NEWEGG but this time wasn't white but damn did that ram kit look good and was a price that made it hard to resist lol and here's the current form loop v3 lol for now because I think I just might of found my dream GPU and I'm not going to say more then that till I'm sure I'm golden on it but here's loop v3 with the monster alphacool NexXxos monsta lol and Yes I kinda had to hotrod mod the case to make it fit all together lol but Damn it looks good! And yes I know some of the loop doesn't look the cleanest or greats but at least its functional/working lol. Though I admit I'm not sure how I Want to finish up the top lol. Got a few Idears kicking around in my head on what I might do. With being an over the road trucker and working on it when I can to tweak it and do upgrades when I can. I say it's looking good for being able to build my once in a lifetime dream pc build that I call "SILVER MISFIT" Crap! Just remember there's other upgrades I forgot to include but will later do a complete parts list later with everything in the build. But I need to get some sleep for an early morning delivery I have to make tomorrow. I do welcome any ideas on how to finish up the top of system and comments. Update 6/20/2023 Well instead of typing everything out that I used in my system I decided to make a pcpartpicker list and here's a link with as much as I could remember off the top of my head with prices I could find from the purchasing of items or it that was included with a purchase. https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Ponchaz/saved/wRbyWZ Didn't realize how much I spent on my system yeah my bank account definitely was hurting after all this.... even more after latest gpu upgrade I bought. Won't know for sure if I got the real deal or scam till I get home to check it out myself but at least I don't have to worry about porch pirates because have someone at home to make sure it gets brought in lol. Well till next time. TTFN LOL

Just finished building the most transparent pc I could build with just using basic tools. No cnc or laser. Some metal bars and some 2mm plexiglass. The goal was to see everything inside working and give it best airflow possible while keeping it water splash proof. I flipped the backside of the motherboard upwards so I don't have to be with limited front panel setup. Also it allowed me to have two different front so I can take fresh air for both cpu aio and gpu. And as a bonus I got rid of the gpu sagging issue. Before in a cooler master case 3090 gpu vram temp was reaching 105, now it's 90. Was on a tight budget, so had to use leftover plexiglass from another project, that's why so many joints. Also reused 2 fan from dead psu. Hope you guys like it. VID-20230618-WA0015.mp4

So I've got a pair of HDR130 headphones from Sennheiser just collecting dust in my closet, and the only reason I'm not using them is because of the interference they receive from using RF to transmit the audio. I've been looking all over the internet to find any information on modding them to be wired headphones instead, and I think I have a rough idea on how to do it. Won't be hard to solder on the necessary components, already opened them up to check on that. I'm lucky enough to live near an electronics shop that carries a bunch of DIY stuff, should be able to get all the materials I need there. (Yay for not having to buy a pack of 40 stereo jacks just to use one) I'll be updating this post as I go along, but if anyone wants to help me that'd be great! I've never soldered before, so It's gonna be fun to do this.

So today my AMD firepro W4100 arrived. Bracket was full height, PC is a small form factor, needs half height. No 3D printer, no problem - It works! :)

Hello, My Basilisk broke about a week ago when I turned it on while having a liquid in or around the sensor(Long story, but i have good reason to suspect the board itself is fine), I have since bought a new one but I have made it a personal project to find a way to repair the old one, mainly just for fun! I found the optical sensor I need as i suspect that is broken, I am currently waiting on a supplier to respond to my query and hopefully ship me one. What i need now is the red LED diod, Does anyone here know what kind of diod i need ? Or is it just any old red led that i can fit? Just in case anyone else is looking for the sensor i used these 2 websites to contact 2 different distributers of pixart: This website lists parts it can find suppliers with and gets you in touch with them: https://www.digchip.com/ And i used this page from the pixart website to find a supplier local to my region and contacted them on their website: https://www.pixart.com/sales_support-distribution/ I also contacted pixart directly using a company account but i apreciate that is not an option for everyone. Thanks in advance!

does this HP EliteDesk 705 G4 Mini with Quad-Core Ryzen 5 Pro 2400GE have a uefi boot up menu for oc an other tweaks ? i want to load with pop os an might have to disable secure boot if it has it an id like to oc the cpu an tweak the voltages if possible short of just using corectrl app on the desktop if it doesn't have a uefi can i load something like core boot https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L9NB7RD/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A3RUF4WM0ZIQQN

I had the awesome S20FE until water got inside it. Bullshit water resistance rating. Currently I managed to afford just the new A54. Its ok till it comes to the camera, compared to the S20FE it is shit. I was wondering if it is possible to swap the physical camera from the S20FE to the A54? I expect the biggest issue is going to be with the software.

Hello. I'm using pfsense to set up a personal router for my own home network. I have Cox ISP to a Netgear Nighthawk CM1000v2 to a mini pc that contains a Celeron J4125 with 8gbs of ram and has 4 2.5gb ports. I've set up the 1 LAN and WAN ports. LAN leads to a switch that everything, including the access point (which isn't setup yet), is connected to. My computer is plugged into the switch. I have tested by plugging directly into the router. When setting up I followed both networkchuck's and Lawerence Systems's videos on it. Pfsense is running 2.6.0 on amd64. I see the WAN with my public ip and my LAN with my local ip. DNS server of 1.1.1.1 and 9.9.9.9. If there is more info needed please let my know.

So im looking at building my own offline security camera system using POE, and having it feed to a computer from switch to pc directly, and using a program to stream and record all the foods from the IPCameras, im wanting to have upwards of maybe 12? cameras, what kind of system would i need for something like this?

Hi, my friend is giving me a PC with some 2gen AMD Ryzen 5 CPU, Dell AMD Radeon HD 7770 (2gb vram),8gb RAM and a big tower case and I was thinking about putting it in my work room and use it to replace my crappy WD NAS box. With all of this, I was thinking about using it as a NAS and maybe for running a Windows 10 (modded Lite iso) or Arch Linux VM on that system. I also have a Dell OEM AMD Radeon Pro WX5100 8gb laying around that I could use it for the VM and I have 4x 4tb NAS HDD's (unused) that I could use here. As far as I seen, I could throw out the DVD drive and get 5 free SATA slots for the NAS HDD's and my SanDisk 120gb SSD. What are my options here in terms of the OS, where I don't need to pay for licenses? Would it be worth it replacing the 2x4gb HP RAM modules for something from more reputable brands like Corsair, Crucial or G.Skill? Before anyone asks, my work room is connected to solar panels on top of my shed and this is why I don't care about power consumption

Country: USA So I have an old Razor Blade Stealth 12.5 that i was thinking of turning into a monitor, but then i remembered, this is also a touch screen. Is there a way to make a touch screen monitor from this or should I stick to just a normal monitor?