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Hi ya'll I often find myself here when I'm deciding on what to buy next. While I do most of my research by myself, I usually want a 2nd opinion. Currently in the market for a laptop that would be used for programming, 3d design and video editting. I've found myself leaning towards Asus since Macbooks are a bit pricey here and the rest dont fit me (I would however take suggestions). The 2 laptops I'm currently looking at are at the same price with the main difference being that the Zenbook 13 is refurbished and the Vivobook is new. Leaning towards the Zenbook cuz of specs and the crisp OLED but would love to hear ya'lls thoughts. Specs are below: Zenbook i5-1135G7, 16GB LPDDR4X, 1TB NVME Vivobook I5-1235U, 8GB DDR4, 512GB NVME. I guess the Vivobook is an option cuz its new and cuz of the better processor but for my purpose, is it worth losing the additional ram and storage?.
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I put together a new system with a ryzen 9 5900x and a pro WS x570 ace that had been sitting on a shelf for the past 2.5 years. This board is terrible, I have to restart my system 10 times before it will boot, after then, it will reboot by itself after 0.5-5 minutes (or BSOD), assuming that it will even recognize my boot SSD. I've spent like 15 hours over the past 2 days trying to get the POS to work, installing new PCH drivers, new bios, NADA. So much for being a workstation board when it's got the stability of a family of alcoholics. What do I do?
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Hey gang, A while ago I was asking around for laptop recommendations, and I ended up going with a roughly $600 ASUS TUF F15 with an 11th gen Core i5, a RTX 2050 and 8GBs of RAM. Its a very solid laptop (barring the 8GB RAM which hampers performance) and I'm enjoying my experiences with it... except for one issue. Whenever I have set the laptop to sleep and then proceed to wake it, the fans whirr up to 4000-5000 RPM before the system itself entirely reboots. This happens every single time I've put the laptop to sleep mode without fail and is an issue I have no idea why exists, and no idea how to solve. I've tried BIOS updates, profile switching in Armoury Crate, driver updates for both the CPU and GPU, switching off fast boot, switching off modern standby, multiple solutions on the internet & more and nothing has worked. So I come to the LTT forum for help as I'm running out of ideas and options. I really hope it isn't a hardware issue or something that requires a send to ASUS... -
Asus - https://www.amazon.in/dp/B0C7R342NJ Dell - https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0BQJD5P52/ Read serious negative reviews about Dell G15-5520 related to battery/over-heating. Battery gets depleted in around 2 hours on normal usage (battery power off and not gaming). Battery cannot last even 40 minutes when gaming with battery power off, read Gaming is not suggested without AC Power on as per many aricles. CPU over-heating is another major concern in Dell which pushes me towards ASUS Even after Windows 11 clean install, end-users kept complaning about same. Here are some similarities/differences between models I have selected as per my budget: (Will purchase additional 8 GB RAM with any model, I plan to purchase) Both SHARE same processor Same GPU - Nvidia RTX 3050 (4G DDR6) Storage 512 gb ssd Important Key differences: Dell 1 x SSD slot VS Asus 2 SSD slots Dell 56wh battery vs Asus 90 wh [BAttery life is most important in this case] Dell 8 GB DDR5 Ram vs Asus 8 GB DDR4 Ram I need a good mid-range gaming laptop with good battery life, where Asus superseeds Dell. Any reasons, which laptop I must select ? Prime requirements: Light gaming Browsing/Office/Youtube -
Hello My Name Is Chris And I’m Here To Share My Most Recent Build And My Setup With Anyone Who Shares The Same Interest I Do!! So Here We Go! Also I am very grateful for advice, Opinions And Options or upgrades I should Consider! Thank you again for letting me share!!! Custom Build: Mint Green PC DIYPC ARGB Q3 Micro Case Motherboard: Asus A520 AM4 GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1080 8GB CPU: AMD RYZEN 5 3600 6 Core Ram: Corsair Vengeance 4x8GB 3600mhz Cpu Cooler: Thermalright Assassin 120mm SSD/HDD: Samsung 850 Pro 120GB SSD, 4TB WD HDD Cooling Fans: ThermalRight White 7 x 120MM fans PSU: Apevia SFX 500 Watt. Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64…. Here Are some pictures included of build & Setup as of today, i will also include in my next post the details of the other 2 systems under my desk! There Custom Builds as well!!! I hope you enjoy thank you again for taking the time to read and help me progress and succeed in Life!!!
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The fans are the ones that came with the Corsair 4000d Airflow (3-Pin). They are plugged into Cha_Fan 1&2 on my Mainboard (ASUS TUF Gaming B550-Plus (Wi-Fi) II). The BIOS shows N/A RPM for Cha_Fan 3 which makes me believe I plugged them in correctly. Any ideas where the problem may lie?
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I know there are a lot of similar posts but i needed to have a one on one talk with someone myself. Im running an asus tuf laptop with an R7 6800H and an RTX 3050ti. The idle temps seem to be around 60 degrees C and below which is decent for a laptop. However while playing, say OW2 the temperatures climbs up to 90 degrees C on low settings. since the idle temps are decent i dont think its problem of thermal paste or clogged air vents since its a new system. The fans also ramp up to max speed at high temps. So my first question is - How safe is it to operate at this temperature for the overall health of the cpu since i plan to use it for 5 years. Secondly - Say if im playing god of war then the cpu utilisation is decent so it makes sense for high temps but while playing ow2 the cpu utilisation is like 10-20% which wont make sense why the cpu temps go so high. I also saw a setting in the power plan in control panel where i can change the max power state of the cpu. Would it help to run the cpu on a low enough power to prevent from heating. This whole heating issue is with the cpu only - the gpu seems to be fine. Thanks in advanced.
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Hi everyone I need help, so in 2019ish I bought a computer (i5 10400f) 1650super 16 gig ram 2tb nvme ssd), I played it for about 2 years until all of a sudden I started experiencing a micro stutter every ten ish seconds, so I got rid of it for cheap, now 2 years later I just bought an asus rog strix g30 with a i7 7700k and a 1070 and the micro stutter is on this pc too, totally different pc, the only things that are the same are my Microsoft account(so the files I had in the cloud) my monitor( which works fine on Xbox series x) and my mouse and keyboard someone please help, I am lost
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So I'm building this rig with a ASUS rog strix z790-a motherboard. On the motherboard, there are two 8-pin power connectors with the regular ATX power connector to the board. I have connected the regular ATX connector to the board already, do i need to fix two extra 8-pin connectors? I know this sounds like a silly question but i'm confused and a clarification would be a great help.
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I have purchased an Asus H81m-k expecting it to work with an SATA SSD with 6G SATA and power. But it kept saying this bios doesn't support boot drive no matter how hard i try it doesn't work I have done many things. Updating bios Changing slots Changing CPU even changing bio settings But after all that troubleshooting still can't seem to figure it out... My specs are: -Intel core i5 4460 (Stock cooler) -8 GB Corsair Vengence 1600MHZ -Warlram Sata SSD 256GB -
Hello! I’m not sure if this is the correct place to ask this so I’m extremely sorry if I’m in the wrong place. I recently shipped my computer that I built back from my boyfriend’s house. Prior to this the fans and LED worked fine and the ship there nothing happened but now I can’t seem to get them to work no matter how much I connect and retry. Any help? The mother board is ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING II and the case is Montech but not entirely sure the exacts since I can’t find the box. Playing things since I’ve gotten it back yesterday has made the case warm which usually doesn’t happen so I’m just worried because those fans seem important. Anything is appreciated! (Please don’t mind the dust and mess, it’s about 3? years old and the first one I’ve ever built and I’ve been in the process of cleaning it since it arrived back at my home yesterday lol.)
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I recently purchased a Rog Maximus Z790 Hero and installed it today. However when I started the PC I got a d6 error. Which is related to the GPU however, I had saw posts recommending a Biosflash, which I then proceeded to do. However after the blue light was blinking for a while, it went solid abd has now stayed solid for over 2 hours. I do not want to attempt anything without complete certainty because I know that I can cause irrepreable damage to the motherboard during a Biosflash. I saw someone mention that a solid blue light means that it is finished, but everything else mentioned the light would turn off. Please I urgently need assistance.
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This problem is reproducible with a Kingston Fury 2x16GB 5200MT/s CL40-40-40 1.25V XMP pair (KF552C40BBK2-32 and with Gskill Trident Z5 2x16GB DDR-6000 F5-6000J3636F16GX2-TZ5K The CPU is AMD 7700X both of which are in the list of compatible DDRs The BIOS version is the latest one (July Version 1516 9.76 MB 2023/07/24) although I did not flash this myself, the shop did. I am running Ubuntu 22.04, both the stock 6.2 kernel and latest liquorix. I am using the google tool stressapptest So in both cases, with only one stick installed in slot A2, I have no problems. With two sticks, there are many problems. The stress test always fails, sometimes immediately. It doesn't matter which stick I use. They are both indvidually stable, for both kits. This happens with the AI Tweaker setting set to Auto or to DCOP1 or in fact to any of the settings. I have spent hours, and can not find a stable configuration. However, this is only my second PC this century, and I have not needed to bother about tweaking. The fact that is seems to impossible to get right makes me wonder if there is a problem somewhere else, but for me this is new territory. I do actually want to overclock it, but even the "auto" settings, which is I suppose conservative, doesn't work. I also tried running it lower frequencies, e.g. taking the DCOP profile and then going down one or two frequency steps, but it is also not a stable result. So is there something I can do to fix this, or to an experienced reader, is it already obvious that I have a problem somewhere else? Thanks. -
I've had this problem for a while with my Asus monitor Anytime i put any refresh rate above 60 hz, screen goes partially or fully black Previously it was just a small portion that later went away but now it seems like it is staying Monitor has not had any punches, water or visible damage. Only thing is that it is VESA mounted and I'm using the display port to connect my graphics card. Is it fixable? I hope so... Model is Asus VG279Q1A. video_2023-08-09_23-33-10.mp4
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As I was connecting my audio mixer (powered off but connected to a different outlet) to my USB audio interface with 1/4" audio cables, one of the cables zapped me (more than regular static electricity but less than wall), burnt out the audio interface, and the USB port it was plugged into on my MoBo is no longer functional. All other ports still work. Is it safe to keep using? My PC stayed on the whole time, and displayed no errors. MoBo in question is a fairly new Rog Strix B550-A. I'm also confused why this happened, as it's a setup I've used before. USB interface, PC, and speakers were all powered on at the time. I figured it would be enough that the mixer was powered off. -
System Asus ROG Z690 Formula w/ custom loop, 2x360 rad i9 13900k + thermal grizzly contact frame (0.4 NM) - by core, MCE disbabled, auto/default everything else. G.skill trident-z DDR5 2x16GB (XMP not enabled) EVGA 3080 TI icx Samsung 990 pro as boot drive Recently rebuilt this system with a new formula, 13900k, and 990. I was previously running a different z690 formula board and 12900k. During my initial tests, I was getting numerous WHEA and CPU logical errors and crashes in OCCT. Flashed motherboard bios to most recent, which eliminated the CPU errors, but I am still getting lots of WHEA errors. There is no overclock or XMP set up yet... What can I do to address this? The only other thing I could think of other than faulty parts would be the contact frame. I had a heck of a time getting it to post in this build until I bought the torque screwdriver and got it in spec.
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Asus B550-A Strix, bios version 2806 / AGESA 1207. Noticed my measured core voltage peak today was 1.337v which is still within the chips rating but I've been thinking of undevolting for a while now anyway. Usually it's sitting a fair bit below 1.337v though, so I don't need to worry about that part right? Anyway here's a screenshot of my bios screen where I THINK I can apply an all core negative voltage offset, but I want to confirm this is where I do it before I go ahead. Which option would I select and how would I go about it? https://imgur.com/gallery/cwSCWQB -
System Asus ROG Z690 Formula i9 13900k - default clocks, MCE was disabled G.skill trident-z DDR5 2x16GB (XMP disabled) EVGA 3080 TI icx Samsung 990 pro as boot drive Problem I flashed my bios to ver 2602, got the update successful message, and have not been able to post since. On the first boot attempt the CPU hangs with code 7F for maybe 5 seconds, then it displays "Test NVRAM", and moves on, but ultimately doesn't output and hangs with a D6 code. Subsequent boots go through the initializations a few times before ultimately failing at the end of the cycle on D6 and "detect HDD". The CPU will hang for a few seconds on B6 and then go back to 00. I was running bios 1720 previously with little issue. I wanted to upgrade because 13th gen stability was supposed to be improved... I installed the latest Intel ME firmware and drivers as recommended by Asus and rebooted before flashing. What I have tried so far power cycle CMOS clear via button + disconnect power and press the power and reset buttons. I can't reach the CMOS battery with the custom loop installed. Re-flashing bios. I have tried every version from 2602 down to 2305. Each flash displays update successful, but the boot attempt is the same. I can't flash to my previous version, apparently due to some "wifi regulation." I tried, and it won't do it. No peripherals Only keyboard via wired connection Display connected to iGPU instead of dGPU I've checked cables and other obvious things. No hardware was touched between successful boot and the initial BIOS flash. What can I do? I really don't want to RMA it. I have had nothing but problems with Asus support this year (all about this damn z690 formula!)
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Hi all, I plan to build a new SFF rig in the coming weeks and am working on locking down a final parts list. My CPU of choice is the i7-13700KF, as I'd like to do some overclocking if I can. But looking at Z790 boards from Canadian retailers, the prices all seem pretty insane, some even equalling the CPU itself. Would it be crazy to use an Asus ROG STRIX Z690-I with a 13700KF? I'm perfectly comfortable with flashing the BIOS via USB if it ships with an older version that doesn't support the 13700KF, but I'm wondering if there are any major features I'd be missing out on by buying last-gen hardware. Thanks! -
PRIME B450M-A II｜Motherboards｜ASUS Global Just downloaded the BIOS update. Followed these instructions: PRIME B450M-A II BIOS 4202 Version 4202 15.75 MB 2023/07/31 "1. Update AGESA version to ComboV2PI 1.2.0.A 2. Mitigate the AMD potential security vulnerabilities for AMD Athlon™ processors and Ryzen™ processors 3. Improve system stability Before running the USB BIOS Flashback tool, please rename the BIOS file (PB450MA2.CAP) using BIOSRenamer." While in EzFlash in BIOS and picking the renamed file PB450MA2.CAP it states its not a proper BIOS file. Any clues you veterans ? Thanks
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I recently bought a TUF Gaming B550m-plus motherboard from ASUS, and plenty other components and managed to build a PC which was basically new from everything other than a few components (pretty much just the storage, psu, and case remained from the previous build.) I installed windows and got to installing some apps on my new system, and everything seemed to be working pretty good, so I didn't think I'd run into any issues anywhere going forward. That is until I decided to finally go into the BIOS and turn on the DOCP settings on. As soon as i pressed save and exit, the PC would simply shut off maybe 3 or so times, and would then tell me to press F1 if i wanted to go to the BIOS settings/reset them to defaults. Whenever I'd turn off DOCP and leave the ram to run on the stock 2400mhz, the PC would boot up just fine and it doesn't seem like i'd have any issues. I got this RAM not too long ago, and i actually tested it out on my older build to see if it's defective, and after running it quickly throught the memtest and using it for about 3-4 days in my older build, it seemed to be working fine, so I didn't think there'd be any issues with this "new" PC and that RAM. The specific model is from Teamgroup, TUF Gaming alliance ram, 16GBx2 configuration rated for 3200mhz. The exact serial number (think that's what it's called?) is: TLTYD432G3200HC16FDC01. The CPU is Ryzen 5 5600X, so I figured it wouldn't have any issues running at 3200mhz with the DOCP RAM. One thing I should note is that while I DID load the DOCP on my old motherboard and CPU aswell, i tuned the frequency down to 2933mhz, because i was running a Ryzen 5 2600x, and I read somewhere that's it's most rated operating speed. Are there any ideas or suggestions on what I should do with my current config? I didn't touch anything in BIOS again after it refused to POST for the 2 times I tried doing it as I'm too scared of playing around with it, so i simply left it all running "as is" on my motherboard. The BIOS version my motherboard is running is 2803, so it's not the newest one, but I wouldn't say it's too old either.
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Story: so i was holding my gpu trying to remove the fan enclosure which broke btw.. i manage to hit a SMD ELECTROLYTIC CAPACTOR and got detached. so my friend volunteered to re solder it. when i came back the soldering job looked like this and i decided never to put it back to the system. will it still work after replacing the smd capacitor and can you help me find one.
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My custom build that took me over two years to build I think I may have gone overboard lol. Specs: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 12 core G.SKILL Trident Z Neo 64GB 3600MHz F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC(Two kits) ASUS Dual AMD Radeon RX 6750 XT OC Edition ASUS ROG Strix X570-E Gaming Motherboard ASUS ROG Strix LC 240 RGB AIO Liquid CPU Cooler ASUS ROG-Thor 850 Watt 80+ Platinum PSU ASUS ROG Strix Scope TKL Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (Using a wireless gaming keyboard at the moment Logitech G613) ASUS ROG Gladius II Wireless Gaming Mouse Storage: Kingston KC3000 1024GB NVMe SSD(SKC300) Team Group T-FORCE VULCAN Z 2.5" 2TB SATA III(game storage) Seagate Exos 16TB ST16000NM000J Hard Drive WD Black 8TB Performance Hard Drive Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Sound Card Creative Gigaworks T 40 Series II speakers Windows 10 Pro Xbox Wireless Controller Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Cooling: 6 CORSAIR ML120 RGB Elite, Magnetic Levitation RGB Fan with AirGuide
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Is my ASUS PSU compatible with a 4070 ti? I was thinking I could use a PCIE Gen 5 cable from CableMod with the graphics card and psu but i want to get more information about it. Is it going to work?
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I press boot button on the casing's front and system lights turn on, peripherals lights(keyboard capslock etc) light up and then turn off, Asus logo shows and then it gets stuck. I shutdown by pressing the power button and pc shuts down, I power it back on > stuck again on Asus logo> I shut it down> pc boots successfully to windows. It always takes 2 or 3 restarts to successfully boot into windows. Things I've tried to fix it: Clean install windows x5 times Updated windows, updated drivers tried uninstalling windows updates Tried enabling/disable CSM Enable/disable fast boot Changing RAM slots Changing monitors/lcd Changing power supply Resetting by removing CMOS Remove and placing GPU, RAM , CPU(checked for broken pins) PC SPECS: AMD RYZEN 5 3600 MOBO: ASUS PRIME B450M-A (BIOS VERSION 4002) RAM 16GB DDR4 Lexar GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 POWER SUPPLY: Corsair CV650 1TB WD Blue SN570 Nvme SSD Windows 10 64 Pro 64bit
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