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NienorGT

Member
  • Content Count

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About NienorGT

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1986-07-07

Contact Methods

  • Twitter
    NienorGT

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ottawa
  • Interests
    Graphic Design, Gadgets, Smartphones, knowledge, music, movies.
  • Biography
    Graphic Designer in the Making - Gadget and Smartphones Zealot - AD/HD Handicapped Genius - Human Rights Supporter
  • Occupation
    Graphic Design Student

System

  • CPU
    Intel i5 8500 (6C6T @ 3-4.1GHz)
  • Motherboard
    MSI B360M Mortar Titanium
  • RAM
    32GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LT DDR4
  • GPU
    Sapphire RX 570 4GB Nitro+
  • Case
    Golden Field M3S
  • Storage
    NVMe: 512GB XPG SX8200 Pro + Gammix S11 Pro, SHDD: Firecuda 2TB
  • PSU
    Seasonic Focus SGX-500, 500W 80+ Gold, Full-Modular, SFX-L
  • Display(s)
    LG Ultra Wide 29" 2560x1080P - Artisul D16 Pro Drawing Monitor
  • Cooling
    Phanteks PH-TC12LS Low-Profile
  • Keyboard
    Microsoft Natural Ergonomic 4000 / Apple corded full keyboard
  • Mouse
    Zelotes C18 Vertical Mouse
  • Sound
    PHONIKAS USB Sound Card with USB Hub
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro Insider Preview / Hackintosh
  • Laptop
    Acer Switch Alpha 12 (i5 6300U) 2-in-1 / Lenovo 500e (2nd Gen) Chromebook 2-in-1

Recent Profile Visitors

559 profile views
  1. Well, I don't think I overdraw power from my USB =/ The biggest power draw would be the monitor at 2000mA if I would directly plug it, but as I said, I use the Y cable that comes with the USB monitor and is normal to use to power the monitor. The only thing: I use my own Samsung wall charger instead of the included *chinese* wall wart. See the user manual: EDIT: Guys, here's a video: I plugged the monitor straight to the PC, powered it off, unplugged the PSU (sorry, I forgot to put additional light before filming, but trust me, it's unplugged) and look what happen when I plug the Y cable in: 20200601_214656_1_-_Copy.mp4
  2. Sorry for the lack of replies, I had to delay my modding project due to work commitment. Well, I was mostly procrastinating putting my PC parts into a temporary case because one of the most annoying part of my computer case is that EVERYTHING is cut sharp at 90°, making any manipulation of the case a potential accidental cut away for your fingers. I was wondering if there something that I could do with one of those tools to polish down the corners to make them less dangerous. The main corners I want to make less rough are going to be hidden by the black plastic band where the glass is sitting, so I don't care how it look, and I guess the easiest way will be using normal sand paper. But I was wondering if there something I can do with other corners like those fan holes that really feel like touching a cheese grater plate when moving the PC around. Since the sanding paper thing for the dremel is big, does the pink abrasive parts could be used to just make it less sharp?
  3. Hello, I'm currently working on my computer case so I put my PC parts into an old case and as I was plugging stuff, I noticed something weird that shouldn't happen... My USB devices (like my USB sound card) was powered up (lights on) and I was still in the process of replugging stuff and the PSU was not even plugged to the wall yet. I was like, WTF, why my USB is getting power, and even allowing me to charge my smartwatch, without even my PSU being plugged to the wall? And then I remembered that my USB drawing monitor was connected to a USB wall plug using a Y cable... Basically: the drawing monitor is connected to the PC with a USB-C> HDMI/USB cable. My PC is able to power the monitor with the USB cable without external help, but I still used the included Y cable to plug the monitor into a USB wallplug so I can use the monitor as a normal HDMI monitor when my PC is turned off (using a basic unpowered HDMI switch). But why the heck powering the usb monitor via an external power source is able to transmit power to my other USB ports on my motherboard even if the PC is turned off and unplugged? Isn't that dangerous/problematic or it is a normal "feature" of a motherboard? (my motherboard is a MSI B360M Motar) Here how it is connected:
  4. Hey guys, I want to do some modifications on my aluminium PC case, so I bought a dremel since I know it can cut and make holes without needing more tools while being cheap. As the title say, I'm a total noob and have no experience with a dremel, but I do like a challenge. I watched YouTube videos about dremels, so I think I'll be able to do what I need, but I'm still a freaking noob that didn't used power tools since high school 20 years ago. So... I just want to make sure that I'm not missing anything... This is the case that I have. I knew it wasn't optimised for airflow and stuff would get hotter than my older ATX tower, but I really wanted something small because I was tired of having an ATX tower that were >50% empty space. The thing that I didn't consider is that my GPU is taller than the normal size and thus totally prevent air circulation in the case, causing heat built up. It took me a while to notice it because, I don't game a lot, so my GPU sit mostly idle. I got more fans, but now the poor design of the fan mounts (look at the stupid "abstract design" of the top fan...) make it impossible to have a normal fan noise without an annoying high-pitch whining. To be clear: I don't mind most fan noise, but I can't stand high-pitch whining, it's like nails on a blackboard to me. Sadly, I noticed this problem months after the purchase, so I can't return the case, and anyway, the case looks perfectly like I want (ignoring the top fan ugly design), so I want to keep it and just jerryrig a fix. It might not look pretty up close after the modifications, but it will still look nice sitting on my desk. My goal is to remove those lines on the top fan hole and use a basic fan filter instead and I will probably fully open the back and bottom fan mounts because those lines are way too much restrictive for the airflow and probably don't help the noise. This is the dremel that I got, the LCD display might be a gimmick, but I noticed that it is important to use the correct speed depending what you do and which accessory you use, so since the LCD show the actual rotation speed (36 = 36 000 rpm) it should help a lot. It's supposed to be a 200W motor, so it should be enough (many videos were recommending to avoid cordless dremels because it lacked power). I even bought Dremel branded cutting discs made for cutting metal, just to be sure of the quality (It was only few bucks and I guess Dremel is a good brand since people refer to rotary tools as dremel ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ). I also have protection glasses, gloves and a mask for safety, obviously. So, as I said, I watched few videos (like this one), so I know what to do, the use of tape and how to hold the dremel, finish with filling tools etc. Since the case is all aluminum (1/8" or 3.2mm of thickness) instead of steel, it should be easy to cut as long I don't go too fast and make sure it doesn't melt. But, is there anything else that I might have missed or tips that I should know? --- my post was starting to be too long since I had nothing to do else while waiting for my pizza delivery, so I kept the fluff if you want to read more details and why I bought this case: I was once a PC enthusiast and gamer with a gamer overclocked PC (In the Athlon 64 days, I had a DFI LanParty mobo with UV bling bling), but now I'm a graphic designer who suffer from wrist pain (apparently not carpal tunnel syndrome says my doc everytime I ask him). So gaming is not a priority anymore and I built my new PC last year with that in mind, I wanted something that looks nice, but didn't want to care about overclocking and stuff. That's why I bought a i5 8500 (wasn't able to find a non-F 9400 and I wanted the iGPU since this PC will go in a slim PC case when I'll upgrade to a Ryzen sometime, hence the low profile cooler). I wanted something small because I was tired to have big ATX cases that had more empty and unused space than a bag of chips and I really wanted a mATX board because, I knew that I would require more than 16GB (and I did, I'm now at 32GB) so I opted for a Golden Field M3S which fit perfectly my style (a rebel graphic designer that live in a world dominated by Apple and a sea of rounded aluminium cases). Everything was going smoothly, despite having a case that lack cooling abilities, it did what I wanted: being silent in idle/productivity work. I don't really care about some noise when I game because I exclusively use headphones. However, because of the whole "global situation" right now, I end up playing games way more often that I was before, and since I play open-world / story driven games, I might play for long sessions. But despite never getting any thermal throttling so far, my PC does get freakingly hot - it's an aluminium case, so it literally get hot to the touch - when I game and I worry about shorting the life of my components due to the heat and with summer coming around, I might finally get some thermal throttling. I've bought more fans and changed the PWM curves, but the noise now hit a very annoying whining because of the way the case fan mounts are designed. So, I told myself that I could learn something different and buy a rotary tool to do some modifications... Edit: my full PC specs are on my profile, I thought that it would show on the side...
  5. Well, the B360 and H370 can't have faster RAM than what your CPU supports, you need a frigging Z370/Z390 board to get faster RAM. This behaviour from Intel annoy me and I wish I could go with AMD, but I'm stuck with Intel due to compatibility requirements. Anyway, it seems it doesn't matter much after all according to Gamer Nexus.
  6. TL/DR; If a locked i5 and B360/H370 board limit you to DDR4 2666MHz, can you still play with timings and even make it faster than rated and does it even matter in real world performance? Hey guys, I used to buy the ram at the fastest speed and at the lowest CAS timings, but... back then all CPUs were unlocked and the fastest RAM was still a speed supported out of the box by the CPU (I'm a first gen i5 hold up...). But today due to Intel's Overclock Tax it's not always worth it to buy K/Z parts since there's a step price change for the K CPUs and a cheap Z board have less features than B/H boards at the same price level (and they may have a worst VRM which is one of the most important factor for overclocking). And correct me if I'm wrong but if I buy a B360/H370, I'm stuck at 2666MHz and that's it for the speed, but what about the CAS and other timings? Because the price itself is quite different, a stick at CAS15 will cost more than one at CAS19 (those numbers seems to be the lowest and highest I saw) but will it really matter in real life scenario for someone who's not overclocking? But I also remember that if you were to have a slower RAM than what they were rated due to your FSBxMULTIPLIER ratio, you could crank up the timings higher than rated. Is that still works with today's "locked" platforms or you have to use timings set in the memory itself? Because I feel kind of cheated when I see sales only on faster memory but making me pay more for a slower memory of the same brand/series... Here an example: I still remember my old boss being adamant on his DDR2 800MHz 4-4-4-12 with gold heat spreader and *gasp* Samsung chips! (sorry, he kept repeating the same thing at every client and it's still burned in my memory )
  7. Well, the weird slot seems to be a vertical SO-DIMM memory slot which does exit in some motherboards. But Intel NUC's motherboards (which have a similar size) are most likely to have stacked SO-DIMM slots. But the lack of IO ports make me think that this is probably some part of an high-end printer or router with SO-DIMM upgradability.
  8. Wow, this device look awesome. It goes way beyond the original nVidia Shield idea of a portable console that can stream full blown PC games when at home. And while we still don't know how the Nintendo Switch will works as a portable/"dockable" console, I still kind of prefer the concept of the GPD Win. It's not a cheap device but it could easily replace few devices like a Windows PC on a HDMI stick, a NUC PC and a HTPC. You got to understand that the USB-C connector is currently a mess with multiple standards. But at the base level, it's just a connector. First, it can be a USB 2.0 (480Mb/s) with a Type-C connector. Most phones are stuck to USB 2.0 speeds. Then you have the USB 3.1 Gen 1 which is just a USB 3.0 (5Gb/s) with a Type C connector. This is currently the most common type currently. The Gen 2 finally bring a speed bump to 10Gb/s. Then you have the Thunderbolt 3 port which use the USB-C connector and can act as a USB 3.1 Gen 2 (10Gb/s) or a Thunderbolt 3 at 40Gb/s. This is the bus speed that allow you to plug a eGPU. Most confusedly, the ability to charge a device via the Power Delivery standard (or other proprietary standard like the OnePlus DASH charge) can be added to the USB-C port regardless of what data bus is connected. TL;DR: Beside knowing the device's specs, you can't tell what a USB Type C port can do without testing it... (And the GPD spec list simply say it's a USB 3.0 so I guess they mean it's a Gen 1)
  9. Yup, Asus ZenWatch 2. It's funny because he said in his ZW2 review that I prefered the LG G Watch R but kept the ZW2 since.
  10. The upcoming ROG Claymore Keyboard will have a detachable wireless numeric keypad that is programmable as well. Nope, sorry, detachable =/= wireless You could maybe hack your own keypad with a cheap number keypad (many are wireless) and few remapping software. http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-powerful-programmable-keypad-for-less-tha/?ALLSTEPS
  11. You could always get a Razer Tartarus or Orbweaver keypads and don't get distracted by the fact that they are "made for gaming" since you can really enjoy this in any context like I do with design apps. They are fully programmable with multiple keymap, unlimited macro and per-app settings. The Orbweaver Chroma version also support per-key RGB lightning which is cool for macro identification.
  12. The Roccat Kova is likely to be the best ambidextrous mouse and it just look perfect (I love symmetry).
  13. My dad, 68, was once an assisting teacher in computing back when computers were bigger than a small house and had punched cards instead of keyboards and screens. But today, he own a phone smarter than him and barely know how to use Windows and Internet (read: browser) for accessing the already too complicated Facebook. If I had to find a nice tech gift to give him, it would be a Chromebook. No Windows, no updates that break stuff, no antivirus, no calling me in panic because of a Windows-error-message-that-I-don't-know-what-it-says-and-I-don't-want-to-loose-my-music. I would go with an Asus Chromebook Flip for the model because it have a touchscreen which is very user friendly and the tablet/tent modes are great for media consumption. This will also be a better choice than an iPad/tablet because of the keyboard and "full laptop" feel (my dad hate changing his habits) but still allows him to video-call the family and play Sudoku/Solitaire games like a normal tablet.
  14. Define "School Stuff" because there's many thing to consider. Anyway, the best is to make your choice by the use you have to do and the context. MacBook advantages: If you are in design/photography stuff, Macbook is your only choice as the whole artistic community is running on Apple sauce. Mac have competent Office now and OneNote to use notes but there's also a whole big bunch of other tools that greatly help students (planners, learning tools and stuff). Mac is not the friendly OS for an Android phone while obviously made to fit with iOS in any way. The "Expected Battery life" listed on Apple Macs are based on normal use (using WiFi nonetheless) and you might even outpass it. No one ever bought a mouse because the glass trackpad was bad on the Mac. (personally I couldn't believe I would tolerate a trackpad but so wasted cash on a mouse that I used twice) Razer Blade advantages: If you are a general schooler, you may have trouble with a Mac at school (software for example). If your laptop will be your main machine and you like gaming on a PC and don't wont to offload this to a console... Android phones will play better with Windows. The "Expected Battery life" listed on most Windows laptop are more often numbers guessed by unicorns. You will stand out with a Black Mackbook-ish laptop and not look exactly like any MacBook users. On a personal note, I'm typing this on a nearly 6 years old MacBook 2008 (the only aluminum full Macbook without Pro at the end) and it's still usable today despite having been quite banged up every day. My TabletPC I paid the same price in 2010 died in 2012. So yeah...
  15. *Double Post Internet Hiccup*
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