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Mojo-Jojo

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  • Content Count

    678
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About Mojo-Jojo

  • Title
    The Briefcase is Secure
  • Birthday 1992-10-03

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Netherlands
  • Interests
    All tech-y things
    Music and Video
    Scuba Diving
  • Biography
    I'm a student in the field of Embedded Systems Engineering, where hardware- and software-development come together to build the future.

    I've been building/fixing by own PCs since I was 9/10 and have been playing with electronics for as long as I can remember.

    Other than that I love myself some good old Scuba Diving, music, and nature.
  • Occupation
    Embedded Systems Engineer

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  1. Not any 2.4 GHz receiver will work. While it's correct that the frequency plays a major part in receiver/transmitter intercompatibility, it is by no means the only factor that counts. Some receivers are explicitly paired to one specific mouse or require a pairing process. Some receivers use different modulation techniques than others, even though they use the same frequency. And then there's the difference in protocols: Bluetooth, Zigbee, other 802.15.4-based protocols, are all not simply interchangeable.
  2. Then I'm out of ideas, sorry. Hopefully someone else has an idea.
  3. So in that same window, when you click "Display adapter properties for Display 1", and then in the new window click "List all modes", is there a 240Hz mode listed as well? If so, you could try selecting it and seeing what happens. My issue was my display was running at 59 Hz, which you would think was close enough to 60 Hz, but it was very noticable for me.
  4. On Windows 10, under Settings->System->Display->Advanced Display Settings (at the bottom of the page) This will take you to a summary of your display information with the current operating properties.
  5. And is this only on the desktop, or in-game as well? You're running a 240 Hz display, can you verify that the desktop is running the display at that same frame-rate? I had issues not too long ago where the mouse pointer would feel laggy, because the desktop wasn't rendering at my display's native refresh rate. As soon as I fixed that, the issue went away.
  6. So with "On ice", what's the actual issue you're trying to describe? Slow velocity ramp-up and "gliding" after you stop moving? Or simply high latency?
  7. Mojo-Jojo

    Is this wierd?

    Nah man, I put up background noise all the time. Sometimes it's TED talks, but it can be anything. As long as you feel comfortable, who cares what it is.
  8. I posted too soon, my bad. What I meant is that when someone buys, say, a 6700K, that's not just some mainstream processor by any means. It's a pretty serious chip. Yet intel still only slaps 16 PCIE lanes on them. The next step up, the extreme editions, suddenly have ~40 lanes. But at a price, of course.
  9. This 16x PCIE lanes for even the newest i7s is getting ridiculous. There's too big a gap between the regular i7s and the extreme editions.
  10. Yep. It's the easiest for simple on/off regulation, although it'd be harder to have volume-dependent brightness with MOSFETs. You could use a high-power transistor for that with the right amplification configuration. With a MOSFET, you would have to use a PWM generated from the volume of the audio, or a MOSFET with a good linear response between the current that it allows through and the voltage at the gate.
  11. Most LED strips have resistors built in either way, but just in case he was going to connect the LEDs directly, I thought it'd be useful information.
  12. The voltage tolerance on LEDs is very tight. Connecting LEDs in parallel means each gets the full supply voltage. You can't just connect some voltage supply and expect your LEDs to live for long. Not without some form of resistance. So each LED would need EXACTLY (or within a certain spec) its rated voltage, or much safer: add a resistor to each of your LEDs. Without that resistance, they'll almost certainly draw too high a current and blow. I assume the LED strip has that taken care of, but better check and be safe than sorry. With these kinds of high loads, a MOSFET would be much more adequate to switch on and off the LEDs. They require no gate/base current so you won't have to worry about saturation like with transistors, which is great at these kinds of amps. Usually the power losses inside the MOSFET are much smaller. Also make sure to check if you need a heatsink. Since the switching frequencies might be high, the inductance from the supply to the LEDs could cause current spikes and reflections and other weird behaviour. Make sure to decouple the 12V supply well with some bulky capacitors to prevent weird issues or a blown supply.
  13. Partly true. Usually eletrolytic capacitors like these will not resonate and will not cause an audible frequency. However, you will find in some circuits that they are gunked down to prevent them from creating audible noises. This is especially true in applications where there is a high ripple current passing through the capacitors (because capacitors let AC currents through!) Ceramic capacitors, usually in SMD format, are known to have the piezo-electric effect causing them to be able to produce audible sounds., but they're not usually used for bulk filtering as electrolytics are.
  14. Does it help to wiggle/angle the connector? If so, the socket for your charger connector is loose. If not, I suspect a problem with the power delivery circuitry.
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