Falcon1986

Clean off the camera lenses with one of those fine microfiber cloths. No need to use any harsh chemicals. Remove any lens protectors if you have one installed. Update your phone's ROM to the latest version. Delete the cache for the camera app, restart the phone and try using the camera again. You might have a broken AF system. Did you drop your phone prior to noticing this problem? If you can still return the phone for replacement or repair, try that. Otherwise, some people have reported tapping on the rear of the phone below the camera while the app is open gets AF to work. Obviously, this is just a temporary fix.

If you simply want to access your home network from work, just use OpenVPN. Unlike NordVPN, I don't think ProtonVPN has any "mesh" feature to activate.

As in they're all running in their default 'router' mode? Why? That's a whole lot of NAT. Read your router's manual on AP mode. That's not a model number. Those are features. Model will be on a sticker attached to the ISP unit directly. That's due to your setup.

Tried a different browser? Turned off any extensions/plugins? Have you updated your graphics drivers?

You don't need mesh to do this, but it is one of the simpler "set-it-and-forget-it" solutions that has this feature. Start by reading about what are mesh systems here. Then take a look at which setups work the best. That budget might be more in keeping with a WiFi 6 mesh system, but you can take a look at the other reviews for WiFi 6E/7 if your budget expands.

In Device Manager, go to 'View' > 'Show hidden devices'. Look under Network Adapters for any greyed out entry. That's likely your adapter. Open the laptop and find the adapter. Is it attached correctly? Are the antennae attached correctly? Eject it taking very good care not to damage the antenna cables/connectors. Then insert again, secure, and reattach antenna connectors. Boot laptop to see if the adapter is detected by Windows. If none of that works, have a talk with your friend.

The AR956x is a very old WiFi module. It only has a single 2.4GHz radio for 802.11b/g/n. I'd be surprised if Windows 11 even supports it today. Invest in a modern M.2/2230 WiFi/BT module to go with that motherboard.

WiFi Analyzer outputs different graphs based on the frequency it's analyzing. Are you sure you used the correct WiFi Analyzer app? Your previous screenshot showed a pure 2.4GHz analysis because you can only see channels 1-14. There should be a toggle in the interface to switch to the 5GHz view. Looking at what your phone was able to detect, it seems like your 2.4GHz spectrum is crowded as expected. Whoever is broadcasting 'House WiFi' obviously doesn't care about neighbours since they're using a 40MHz bandwidth. This wide on 2.4GHz is asking for interference. There's not much you can do about this; perhaps configure your router's radio to use channel 1 at 20MHz on 2.4GHz. Your 5GHz analysis is interesting. Your router seems to be using a 160MHz broadcast that predominantly overlaps the DFS range. Because most USB WiFi adapters tend to have hardware limitations, they rarely can "see" DFS channels. Furthermore, if they could see it, this segment of the 5GHz spectrum overlaps with weather radar and satellite communication use. As a result, your WiFi can be temporarily interrupted if these broadcasts are common in your area. You need to configure your router's radio to use a narrower channel width (80 or even 40MHz), which will sacrifice on overall throughput, and try using one of the upper 5GHz channels (149-165). It would have been nice to see that far to the right on your analysis to see if any neighbour is broadcasting that high.

When this happens, look at the hardware properties to see what error message it generates. There's always a message if you're seeing a yellow [!]. No need to install. Run live from USB. Ubuntu is popular. If WiFi works (hopefully, there are supported drivers in the Linux kernel), then that might point to a Windows driver issue. Wouldn't say it's unremovable. Probably more risk of damage if you tried. I've successfully removed the shroud on my MSI WiFi motherboard before to replace the M.2 WiFi adapter. Needed care, but I would understand your reluctance with an expensive board. Honestly, you can go on to investigate this problem as much as possible. Time taken to get a conclusion might be more than just getting a PCIe replacement one time if it's annoying you that much. I'd avoid USB if there's a compatible slot available.

And analysis when connecting on 5GHz?

That is preferred. USB WiFi adapters can be limited compared to PCIe alternatives and what your phone sees. Just to clarify: is your WiFi's SSID the one with the strongest signal (highest amplitude)? While being directly above the router isn't ideal, sometimes you're in the right location to still get a decent signal.

Simple things: Placement/obstruction - Placement behind a PC where there is a lot of clutter and the whole metal PC case can obstruct reception. Either plug in via a front port or use an extension cable to mount higher. Distance/attenuation - The further from the wireless source, the weaker the signal gets. Objects in between (e.g. floors, walls, etc.) also weaken the signal on top of this. WiFi at elevation is also not good since most wireless routers/APs are omnidirectional (stronger in a horizontal/radial orientation; quickly dies above and below). Do any of these things apply to your situation? Interference - Whether it's from your neighbour's WiFi or other sources of electromagnetic interference (e.g. fridge, Bluetooth, cordless phones). You can run WiFi Analyzer (see Windows/Android app store) to figure out how strong the signal is where your PC is located and if there are any overlapping broadcasts from your neighbours. Post screenshots of your 2.4GHz and 5GHz analyses. Wireless router/AP configuration - At further distances, it's better to try 2.4GHz even if it's slower than 5GHz. However, you might encounter interference, since everyone's wireless router blasts out a 2.4GHz signal. You can also narrow the bandwidth of your own broadcast from 80MHz to 20/40MHz, which will limit maximum speed, but might improve on range. On a hub? No. Directly attach to its own USB port if possible, preferably not a shared interface.

Make and model? Have you evaluated if the problem is due to factors not related to the adapter?

That's a lot of work to get WiFi working again. Does it not detect your WiFi network or does it not detect any network at all? Does it "disappear" from Device Manager when WiFi disappears? Do you have many peripherals plugged in? Is your PSU adequate for the hardware you have? Can you boot into a Linux distro to see if it works fine there? Probably for good reason. Googling the RZ616 shows that it's really a MediaTek wireless chip which, depending on where you look, has given problems.

Actually, the ER-X and ER-X-SFP do not have to be used with WISPs or AirMax. You can use it as a regular router and it performs well for what it is. The AC-M requires 24V passive PoE, so PoE compatibility shouldn't be a problem here. I do agree that you have to manually "switch" PoE on in the router interface. Are you sure you want a system like Ubiquiti? Why not keep it a bit simpler with a mesh system using ethernet backhaul between the primary unit and peripheral nodes?

@jmatt I'd go with whatever a local certified electrician would do. Make sure it passes standards set in your country. You don't want an accident to happen later on and your insurance doesn't cover it because things weren't up to code. DIY is fine if you're staying away from high-voltage wires. BTW, should you have any other conduit for coax or even central ventilation, those can be used instead. Also, keep in mind that the more insulation you add to ethernet cables, the less tolerant they are to flexion. That's aside from their added bulk and weight which might be of concern if running in conduit with limited space.

Try uninstalling and reinstalling Chrome. Turn off as many extensions that you don't need. Add them back one by one to see if any is to blame. Have you tried replicating this behaviour on another browser? When you run speed tests, the latency results (unloaded and loaded) are just as important. What do you see on "show more info"? BTW, not every server you're downloading from has the capacity to upload to you at your maximum throughput. This can be due to many reasons that are out of your control, such as capped connection limits at the server, server overload, network congestion at some point along the path, etc.

Currently, if all peripheral devices were actively doing something at maximum power draw, your PoE load would be around 49W. Add 2 more G4-Dome cameras later and you add 10W, pushing total PoE draw to just under 60W. Device | Quantity | Unit POE (W) | Total POE (W) --------------------------------------------------- U6-LR | 1 | 18.5 | 18.5 G3-Flex | 3 | 4 | 12 G4-Dome | 1 | 5 | 5 UCK-G2P | 1 | 13 | 13 ---------------------------------------------------- Total | 6 | 48.5 That 60W AC power adapter also has to provide 8W of power for the USW-Ultra. So, with the setup you already have, you're probably reaching the limit with the 60W adapter (49 + 8 = 57W). All PoE devices and the switch itself are unlikely to be active and consuming maximum power simultaneously. However, if you're constantly recording video to the UCK-G2+, you might be getting close. If you have an existing PoE switch through which you can assess the total power draw on your current devices, you should get an idea of what your typical power consumption will be like.

I'd get it with the 210W AC adapter to be safe. You're going to quickly run out of ports. 8 will be enough?

Why do you need to switch the backhaul medium so much? You're interrupting the mesh network and reassigning antenna bands, so I wouldn't expect less. Set up AiMesh and leave it alone.

Mesh systems use omnidirectional antennae. And in order for mesh to work properly, you have to use compatible units (usually the same brand/model unless if you're running Asus' AiMesh). What I'm saying is that getting mesh to reliably link vertically will be a challenge. It would be better that you stagger mesh point locations around the house so that the software "figures out" the best path to establish mesh links. Hear you! Here would be my argument: Would you rather see multiple "alien spaceships" around the house with cables coming out of them, or a neatly-mounted AP where wires are almost completely hidden? You don't need new conduit if you already have conduit for low-voltage cables or coax. Ethernet can run in the same conduit if there is space. Actually, you don't need conduit if you can get into the walls and make routes through the studs.

Are the two Powerline adapters on the same circuit? Are there any high-draw appliances on the same circuit? E.g. air conditioning, fridge, freezer, microwave, etc. Any form of filtering (e.g. surge protectors) or power conditioning will "clean out" the signal required for Powerline to work effectively. Are any of those on the same circuit? Old wiring = poor performance for Powerline. Unless you upgrade the wiring yourself, there's no way of getting around this. Newer Powerline generations are more tolerant of interference, but can still be subject to it. What is the make/model of your adapters? Sometimes, simply rebooting or resetting/re-pairing the adapters will fix a slowdown. However, this is likely to be temporary at best. If you're going to use Powerline, know its limitations. Speed, latency and reliability are always poor. WiFi is probably better if you have good reception. Wired (ethernet, fiber, etc.) directly to the switch or router is always best. If you have an available slot that can accommodate the adapter, that should be fine. Personally, even if it costs a little more, I'd invest in an adapter with detached antennae that you can move around for optimum reception. The ones directly attached to the adapter have limited planes of manipulation and are stuck behind a PC case always.

Are you sure you'll need 3 APs if your internal walls are made of wood and drywall? Is it a multi-level or large home? I have this very same router at my parents' house, but the U6-Lite APs are being powered by a dedicated UniFi PoE+ switch and, attached to the switch, is a CloudKey Gen2Plus for local management. BTW, individual UAP-AC-M units should come with their own compatible PoE injectors, so you don't need a PoE switch or the ER-X-SFP to power them. Are you planning of hosting the UniFi Controller on a separate device, in the cloud or using the phone app? Personally, I wouldn't be getting the UAP-AC-M in this day and age unless I wanted something sturdy for outdoor placement. In the home, a U6-Lite costs almost the same and supports WiFi 6. However, I notice the cost of network hardware in NZ is quite high! Actually, the UAP-AC-M uses passive PoE (24V, 8.5W max). For those on a budget [and where stock is available] and looking for a smaller footprint, a setup like this is also possible: The UCG-Ultra hosts the UniFi Network (not any other app at the moment except Inner Space) which eliminates needing a CloudKey or UDM/UDR.

For close to gigabit WAN speeds - ASUS TUF-AX6000 ($386) For close to 500Mbps WAN speeds - GL.iNET GL-AX1800 ($94) or Cudy AX1800 ($59.90) I've not tested any of these personally, but what I've seen mentioned elsewhere. GL.iNET wireless routers come with an OpenWRT variant out of the box and are pretty good value for the money.

Unless you use directional antennae. And if I'm interpreting the construction correctly, a lot of that signal will be wasted outside. The ideal solution would be to run ethernet from the ISP's gateway to the top floor and attach an AP. It will provide the most stable and consistent signal to your wireless clients because you have a wired uplink and you're removing any signal attenuation caused by the floors. Running ethernet might be more labour-intensive, but the results are better in the long term. If you absolutely can't run ethernet, then you can try mesh and see how it performs. Can't guarantee anything since every house is constructed differently.