Thalandros

Hi LTT! I come to you for help. My girlfriend has recently decided she wanted to build a computer. I've had one all my life and am fairly used to computer parts and building one. We got her the following parts: Motherboard: ASrock Phantom Gaming B550 CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR4 GPU: Nvidia RTX 3060Ti Case: Corsair 100R PSU: Argus RGB 650CM-II We bought all the parts at an online computer shop, and quickly had to return both the motherboard and CPU because we couldn't figure out why, but it wouldn't POST. We checked the RAM on my system, and the PC booted, just ended in a boot loop. The computer shop sent us her old CPU back and confirmed that the motherboard was DoA, and shipped us a new one. So now we've got tested RAM, a new motherboard, a tested CPU. Should be golden. We reinstall everything, and now the computer literally doesn't even power on. I feel like we've checked everything: - Replaced power cable - Replaced power strip (just in case) - Checked if PSU is turned on - Checked if CPU and Motherboard are connected to PSU - Seated and re-seated power switch and reset buttons on the motherboard - Removed the motherboard from the case and tried to boot shorting the power switch on the board - During most of this, we removed the unnecessary things like GPU and storage just to be sure. I want to try the paperclip method of testing a PSU tomorrow, but it seems to be the only possible culprit. The thing is, it worked last time when we figured the motherboard was broken (fans went on, POST lights were on) and we have not touched the computer between now and then. I'm utterly lost and would hate to have to tell her that we have to RMA AGAIN, and it just seems weird that this occurs now after already replacing a faulty part. Anything I might have missed? Any tips? :(

Hey! I have an issue I've never encountered before and I have no idea how to solve it. The HDMI cable in question is http://www.profigoldcables.co.uk/catalog/profigold-prol1202-2m-led-tv-hdmi-cable-high-speed-with-ethernet-p-100.html I know, overpriced as shit, I didn't buy it. But that should guarantee quality a bit atleast, no? I have two monitors. One being the http://www.iiyama.com/gb_en/products/prolite-e2473hds-1/(Ilyama ProLite 2473HDS) And the other (my main monitor) being the http://gaming.benq.com/gaming-monitor/xl2411z (BenQ XL2411Z) Both support HDMI, DVI-D and all the widely supported stuff. I am running a GTX 970 in my system, the one by Gigabyte, so I have 3 DP slots, 1 HDMI and 2 DVI slots. The technical specs out of the way: This morning I got the urge to connect my earbuds to my monitor, so that they wouldn't be in the way. I usually use my desktop headphones, but sometimes I prefer in-ears so I decided to connect them to my monitor, because HDMI supports audio, right? My Ilyama screen has a 3.5MM headphone output connector so I connected it there. Going to my windows sound panel, the monitor definitely is able to produce sound, but only from the monitor's on-board speakers. The headphones just do not work. Then I decided to switch the cables around. (I usually have my Ilyama connected to HDMI, and the BenQ to DVI-D). The Ilyama connected fine, but my BenQ doesn't respond to the HDMI? It just tells me ''no signal.'' It has power, is connected to the PC (have re-connected it multiple times) and I have even restarted the PC even though it's hotswappable. Reversing this alleviates the problem. The monitor can connect fine through DVI-D again. So, am I dealing with a shitty HDMI cable here? Is it partly broken? Am I doing something wrong? It definitely is able to produce sound, just not over my earphones, and on my other monitor, it doesn't even work! Any help is appreciated.

Right, so I've owned a Blackwidow 2013 for over a year now and I've loved this keyboard a lot. I'm ready to expand my inventory though! That, and it's quite huge and heavy, not very nice to move around a lot which I will do more in the future. I also want to try Red switches instead of the Blackwidow's awesome blues. I'm looking at both the Leopold FC660M and the Poker II, specifically the Leopold with a red case. Separate cases are very expensive I've found, so that's why. The leopold has like six more dedicated keys, and while I don't need them, it's a welcome addition I suppose. I wouldn't miss it on the Poker though. Anyway, my two-parted question: Which of the keyboard gets your preference if you have one? The leopold's more expensive but also looks a bit better and has more keys. I'd mod both keyboards with different keycaps. I need some inspiration on this though :> Any keycaps that go well with either the Leopold or Poker layout? hoping on some experienced advice. Thanks in advance!

Winning a 600W PSU at a gaming tournament. Apart from that, anything I can get out of the US and not pay crazy shipping/taxes for.

Personally, I'm not a nitpicky person, but I fingertip grip a lot (90% of the time) and I've got a G400s for it's crazy accuracy and it's fine for me. I used to use a Steelseries Sensei even. It's a logitech mouse, so technically a ''palm grip'' mouse but it's extremely comfortable no matter what. You seem like you nitpick too much, you're not going to ever find a perfect mouse at this rate. There's two kind of mice out right now. Bulky ones and small ones like the Abyssus and CM storm Spawn. Take your pick.

Why downgrade the 970? It's 1.66x as strong as the 770. You might wanna get an MSI or Gigabyte G1 gaming one though, they're the best cards. G1 could be slightly too big for your case, check that first.

Yes, everyone should buy what they think is best. What people hate is fanboys who bullshit and have no idea what they're talking about when they say ''Apple is best!'' or ''Samsung phones are so much better than X''. It's a factual thing that Apple (and more companies, but mostly apple) are selling their stuff at a way too high price JUST because they can through their brand. I hate people who feel ''cool'' because they paid a certain amount for a premium product that's not really premium at all but just looks that way. I wish people just knew better. (Phones aren't the only market where this happens, by the way..)

Roccat probably isn't a good call, they only just stepped into the market. The rest should all be good, yeah.

`The quality on the headset isn't enough to justify a soundcard anyway. Don't bother.

Sennheiser HD 598 is the 100%, best bang for your buck for ~200, no soundcard headphones. They're comfy, look great, and have great sound reproduction on top of being easy to drive.

The finish I never need to clean, it always looks pretty good. Have had it for like a year. No issues whatsoever, except once in a while a key being stuck in windows (while not mechanically being stuck. Very rare though.)

Nothing that I can think of, maybe a PS2. I'll try tomorrow.

So I just bought a new XL2411Z for my setup (while waiting for my GTX 970 to arrive) and halfway through the installing of the monitor software, my 2nd monitor, a 1080p Ilyama HD screen (24''), fell out, black. I was okay, it's probably just my software doing that. Now however, on any system I try, it's showing that it has power, and the lights go on but it tells me ''no signal''. Windows and CCC recognise the monitor and I can move my cursor into the black area. The problem is that it just doesn't want to turn on and stays on ''no signal'' forever, whatever input I use (HDMI, VGA, DVI). I just cannot get it to work. Could the software be messing it up? As far as I'm aware there are no standalone drivers for the Ilyama or software, and it work(ed) right out of the box. Any tips? I'd still like to use it as a 2nd monitor. Thanks in advance!

Yes, get it. The only comparable card that sometimes beats it is the Gigabyte. Both have extreme overclock rates compared to EVGA & ASUS. The only bad thing is that it doesn't come with a backplate, which is why I'm waiting for a gigabyte.

Well I have no memory of it making less consistent sound, but under load it definitely is a bit noisy. I'm running the WD data lifeguard diagnostic as we speak, but sadly CMD doesn't want to go further than ''The type of the file system is NTFS''. As replacement I'm looking at WD drives, should I get a blue or green drive for storage + games? I like a less noisy HDD, but at the same time I don't want to lose any loading times? Thanks in advance!