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iJarbus

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia

System

  • CPU
    i5 4690K @ 4.5 GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Maximus VII Ranger
  • RAM
    8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro
  • GPU
    MSI GeForce GTX 970 Gaming 4GB
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Primo
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO Series 120GB SSD, 2TB WD HDD
  • PSU
    Be Quiet! Straight Power 10 800W CM Power Supply
  • Display(s)
    LG 29UM57-P
  • Cooling
    Custom Water Cooling Loop
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 RGB
  • Mouse
    Logitech G500s
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD558
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

1,355 profile views
  1. Looks like it'd be a freaking sick build, I've had allot of success with EK blocks so I'd recommend paying the bit extra for them. I'm running a Phobya pump and I'd stay the hell away from it, the fittings stripped the plastic threads on the pump and I ended up having to glue fittings into the pump(somehow I'm a year on with no leaks). For tubing I'd go with PETG over Acrylic, PETG is much less brittle and easier to cut and is equally as clear. I got a little tubing cutter from my local hardware store, it's meant for cutting copper pipes but it works really well for cutting plastic tubes to and gives a really smooth cut. Soapy water is your best friend for getting your silicon insert in the tubes for bending. Also, work out how much tubing you think you'll need and double it, bending the pipes is really tricky and for some of the more intricate bends will take several attempts since once you bent the tube you can't really do more than minor adjustments to it. If you can add a drain point to your loop when you are building it, I ignored this advice the first time I did it and it made draining the loop a pain, only costs like $30 in parts and makes your life so much easier. Last thing, make sure you set aside a heap of time to do it, took me three days to do mine(most of that time was spent trying to work out what I was doing lol)
  2. Using gutter sealant to seal a leaky fitting on my loop, been running for a year without a single drop. Also in the same loop using Araldite to glue a fitting into a pump after the plastic threads were stripped completely. Thinking about it it's a damn miracle I haven't had a leak
  3. I had an issue similar to this with my rig(I can't remember if it was the sane post code but it was the same symptoms), I have the Maximus Hero VII, my problem turned out to be a USB card reader being plugged in and having a microSD to SD card adapter plugged into it without the microSD card in it, just the empty adapter. if I removed that it would boot fine, maybe try unplugging all USB devices?
  4. Hello, my rig is pretty similar to yours(specs in sig) A GTX 970 is roughly equal to a 1060 and I can run almost all modern games at max settings at 2560x1080 and I certainly recommend going the ultrawide path, I've really enjoyed the upgrade.
  5. Totally guessing but is it possible that the graphics card isn't being utilized at all, perhaps the small FPS is a result of the PC trying to run off it's integrated graphics. Do you have a program like HWMoniter where you could check the GPU utilisation in a game to see where it's sitting?
  6. Since you asked for Australian I'm guessing you are one, given that it's probobly worth checking out Harvey Norman, they have a few good deals on at the moment. I recently bought my first DSLR camera from there, NIkon D5200, I got it for a stupid good deal of $488 after cash back. I can personally recommend the Nikon D5200, it takes great shots and has some nice features too but like many have said there is no best camera and the person using it has much more to do with it. Tony Northrup has a good video comparing the Nikon D810($4000 US) and a $100 Pentax and showing that thought, planning and effort can mean much more than expensive gear.
  7. Rig Name: Specs: CPU: i5 4690K @4.7Ghz GPU: GTX 970 @1500Mhz RAM: 8Gb Corsair Vengeance Pro Score: 8
  8. This would fall into the super useless but awesome nonetheless category, I'd be pretty keen to see something like this. I'd have no idea if it would work, I guess so since you can boot off a disk drive.
  9. Like others have said a bare table would be better, as for sole general tips: - set aside a few hours for your first build its better to take it slow. - build everything outside the case first, just place the motherboard on the box it came in and do a quick post test. - if your computer doesn't post initially don't freak out allot of people's don't, just check each power connector and check that RAM is seated correctly. More often than not this is the issue. Hope this helps, if you need help feel free to PM me, good luck.
  10. I haven't played Fallout 4 but it doesn't interest me very much where as I have played Just Cause 3 and it's amazing, It's probably the most fun I've had in a game in a long time. It's so over the top its brilliant.
  11. Hey whats that motherboard? I haven't seen anything with duel CPU thats not work station or server, that looks more consumer grade.
  12. It's super not recommended but I have done it and it worked although all bets are off on reliability and compatibility in exact situations. If it was me I'd try to match the RAM if you can, failing that get a similar stick from the same brand.
  13. OK, I don't think so I've never heard of RAM OCing causing damage and certainly not at the pretty standard speeds you were trying to achieve. Are you getting any error messages, like beeping or codes if your motherboard has a display? Also maybe try different sticks of RAM by themselves in different slots just in case.
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