Freelance Bum

I misread the post and I'm tired, and that's why I said take it with a grain of salt DBAD

yes, 3080 should be compatible, and you probably won't miss out without pci gen 4

Guys, can we not be toxic on one small slip up? This is starting to look like youtube comments on both sides.

Huh, Gamers Nexus isn't on here

If your laptop has an NVME slot (which it sounded like it did) or at least m.2 Sata, then use that as the boot drive. I would probably still replace the 7200 rpm hard drive for storage though. The thing with spinning magnetic hard drives and laptops is the fact that due to the mobile nature of laptops, it's more likely to die. In my personal experience, it's not too much of a risk though. I had one with that configuration for about 3 years and used it on a school campus where it was constantly being moved around and never had a problem with the spinning drive. It was a gaming laptop even, and all of my games were stored on the HDD because back then a 250gb SSD cost about $120 USD. I'd say you probably got a drive that was more prone to failure (which isn't the easiest thing to test for in a factory). You aren't likely to get that again, as it's not very common. I would still absolutely run a SSD as the boot and a HDD as the storage if your laptop has slots for both. That's probably your best configuration.

I feel like there's some misunderstanding from everyone on what you're asking, as well as from you (The OP) about what the laptop is doing which is causing some miscommunication. That's all totally fine and understandable. I've had this exact issue before, so let me help clear up some confusion. Windows and Nvidia are reporting that Intel UHD controls that monitor because UHD is your primary video output, even if you plugged in an external. This is fine, normal, and there's no way to change it. It does not work like a desktop, because the discrete GPU and the integrated one can still swap between output and control of programs. The UHD takes over for what it believes to be normal desktop programs because it is able to run those more efficiently (I.E. it's intended to save on power consumption). Sometimes, however, the system controlling it doesn't recognize games and thinks they are normal programs, and tries to run them with UHD. This is where you have to individually set it in the 3d settings of the NVidia control panel. Additionally, you can follow These Steps (It's a gigabyte site, but the steps involved are for Nvidia) These steps will show you how to see which running programs are utilizing which GPU

I've been looking for a cheap laptop for awhile to just do simple things with, and ended up finding this thing (Dell Inspiron 3135) at a store for $85 USD. I've since slapped a Samsung 850 evo I had from an old dead laptop and installed Manjaro Linux. I'm now looking at some other upgrades that I need to buy some parts online for but I have a few questions. 3 questions, with a few sub-questions. 1. I've been looking at RAM for this, and I found something by Crucial that crucial's site says is compatible, but when also looking up the same speed and type of DDR3L SO-DIMMs, I also found something by G.Skill that costs less and has a lower cas latency. I'm wondering if the timings need to match what is currently in my system for my motherboard to be compatible with it (laptops like these can be so selective about hardware) or can I get the ram with the better timings? 2. I've noticed the cpu sits around 48-52 Celsius in idle. I know it's normal for laptop CPUs to run kind of hot, especially since this thing is running an APU, but that still seems kind of high and the little fan on this thing is almost constantly running at max. I read something in its manual that suggested it had a thermal pad in it, rather than thermal paste. If so, would I be able to open it up and apply thermal paste or is a thermal pad too thick? I've never worked with thermal pads before. I've always used paste. Also, if I can use paste, should I use a normal decent quality thermal paste (like Noctua's or Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut) or, since it's a laptop CPU and therefor more than likely has an exposed die, should I go with something like thermal grizzly's conductonaut liquid metal or is it just not worth the risk (since gallium can damage the surrounding components) 3. The WLAN card in this laptop only supports up to Wireless N. It's not entirely necessary, but I do want to put in a wireless AC card in here at some point. As long as I find something that can fit into the mini PCI-E slot that's wireless AC capable (which I have found) would I have any trouble with compatibility?