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Louie Friesen

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Everything posted by Louie Friesen

  1. It would be really helpful for you to post a few pictures of the "heatsink", "caddy" and "fan". If you want to upgrade to an SSD (and remove the hard drive), then you should look at the bottom of the caddy. If there are four holes in a rectangle (each hole has another one about 2.5 inches away and another hole about 3 inches away), then you don't need a 2.5" to 3.5" drive adapter sled. If there aren't holes like what I described above, then you should get a 2.5" to 3.5" adapter sled. You can get them of Amazon or Newegg. Something like this would be good: https://www.amazon.ca/SABRENT-3-5-Inch-2-5-Inch-Converter-BK-HDDH/dp/B00G57BN1M/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=3.5+to+2.5+hard+drive+adapter&qid=1603508297&sr=8-8 For the SSD, I would recommend getting one from a reliable brand. I'd recommend getting one that is not super high-end, as they are expensive, but not low-end. All SSDs I mention are 2.5" form factor. Middle-of-the-road SSDs: Samsung 860 EVO Western Digital Blue Seagate FireCuda 120 Seagate BarraCuda 120 Kingston UV500 Crucial MX500 High-end: Samsung 860 PRO Western Digital Red Seagate IronWolf 125 Seagate IronWolf Pro Kingston KC600 Low(er)-end: Samsung 860 QVO Western Digital Green Seagate BarraCuda Q1 Kingston A400 Crucial BX500 The SSDs above are just a few good ones. Reputable brands are: Samsung Western Digital Corsair Kingston Seagate SanDisk HyperX Crucial
  2. For the radiators, do I need specific Bitspower Touchaqua ones to line up or can I use ones from EK?
  3. I'm kind of starting to like that distro plate! LOL, I've noticed the same thing like originally I didn't like the look of the EK monoblocks for the Zenith II Extreme and the Maximus XII Formula, but now I kind of like them (especially since Bitwit used the Zenith II one and JayzTwoCents used the Maximus XII one) XD
  4. Thanks. I was just wondering for a possible future rig of mine. BTW I already have the software because I already have Trident Z RGB memory.
  5. Hi there, I'm wondering if G.Skill RGB memory (Trident Z RGB, Neo and Royal) are compatible with iCUE when you have an Asus motherboard (because Asus motherboards are compatible with iCUE now).
  6. I actually am not a big fan of Bitspower's distro plates because they are like halfway in the case. You'll see what I mean on these pictures, although I'll still consider it.
  7. Hi there, I've been considering (it's about a 50/50) doing a custom loop with my Hackintosh: Gigabyte Z390 AORUS ULTRA Intel Core i7 9700K Sapphire NITRO+ Radeon RX 5700 XT SE 32GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3600 Corsair H100i RGB Platinum SE Corsair RM850x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB Western Digital Black SN750 500GB Seagate BarraCuda 4TB NZXT H510i I'd definitely be cooling the CPU, and for the GPU, I'll wait and if the 6900 XT is supported I might buy one and put a waterblock on that, but if it isn't supported, then I'd buy the Alphacool block for my GPU. The hardware I know I'd use would be: EK-Quantum Momentum Aorus Z390 Master D-RGB - Plexi EK-CoolStream SE280 or Corsair Hydro XR5 280 (I'm guessing the EK one is better?) Some soft tubing and fittings from EK and a filter and temperature sensor from Bitspower Distilled water for coolant Probably Corsair ML140 Pro RGB or Noctua NF-A14 chromax.black.swap fans EK air leak tester thingy My main question is what pump to use. The EK configurator recommended the EK-Classic Pump Reservoir SPC 160 PWM D-RGB, but my main concern is how I'd fill it, and if it includes hardware to mount it to the reservoir mount built into the case, or if I should spend the extra $90 and get the VTX (BTW, what's the difference between VTX and DDC?) 120mm tall pump/res. Another question I've got is how good Alphacool waterblocks are (if I choose to cool my 5700 XT, otherwise I'd get probably an EK one if I got a 6900 XT that's compatible). Do they leak? Thanks!
  8. Hello there, just wondering if EK's D-RGB products (i.e. monoblocks, GPU blocks, distro plates, etc.) are compatible with the Asus Aura Terminal.
  9. Hi there, Currently I have my PC/Hackintosh with a 240mm Corsair AIO, and am planning on using it for a build for a friend, so I need to get a new cooling solution for my processor. First of all, here are my system specs: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra Intel Core i7 9700K Sapphire Nitro+ Radeon RX 5700 XT SE 32GB (2x16GB) G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3600MHz C16 Corsair H100i RGB Platinum SE Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB Western Digital Black SN750 500GB Seagate BarraCuda 4TB Fenvi FV-T919 Corsair RM850x NZXT H510i I've always wanted to do a custom loop, but am wondering if it is worth it (like are the temps much better). If I just got a new AIO (a Corsair H115i RGB Platinum), it would cost $245*. If I got a custom loop, it would cost about $870. *All prices are CAD$ The parts I would need for the custom loop are: EK-Quantum Momentum Aorus Z390 Master D-RGB - Plexi Alphacool Eisblock Aurora Plexi GPX-A Radeon 5700 XT Nitro+ Alphacool Eisblock Aurora Backplate GPX-A Radeon RX 5700/5700 XT Nitro+ EK-CoolStream SE 280 Noctua NF-A14 chromax.black.swap EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 120 VTX PWM D-RGB - Acetal EK-DuraClear 9.5/12.7mm 3M Plus Fittings: EK-STC Classic 10/13 - Black (x8) EK-AF Y-Splitter Rotary 2F-1M G1/4 - Black (x1) Corsair Hydro X Series XF Fill Port - Black (x1) Corsair Hydro X Series XF Ball Valve — Black (x1) Bitspower G1/4" Matt Black Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting (x1) EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 - Black (x2) EK-AF Classic Angled 45° - Black (x1) EK-PLUG G1/4 Acetal - Black (10 pack) (x1) Total cost: $875 Is it worth it?
  10. Hi there, just wondering what the difference is between the Seasonic SGX-500 and the Fractal Design Ion SFX 500G are. I read that the OEM for the 500G is Seasonic and am just wondering if it is just a SGX-500 with Fractal branding, and if there are any feature differences which I should make me use the Seasonic one instead.
  11. Hi there, I'm wanting to get some headphones to upgrade from my earbuds which I currently use for my computer. My budget is $130 CAD. Willing to go a bit over. Requirements: 1. Some form of wireless (2.4GHz or BT) 2. Decent sound quality (I currently use Sony earbuds, so something equivalent or better) 3. Comfortable 4. Not too gamery 5. Option to be wired 6. Must be Mac compatible (I use a dual-boot gaming PC/hackintosh) Nice-to-haves: 1. Bluetooth -so I can use them with my phone if I want 2. Microphone -definitely not required, doesn't need to be very good. My webcam already has a good mic. I would also want the mic to be either retractable or removable (not flip-up, like the Corsair Void Pro). 3. Good surround sound -I play a lot of driving/simulation games, so some surround sound would be nice. These are some of the ones I've been looking at: Steelseries Arctis 1 Wireless Steelseries Arctis 3 Bluetooth Corsair HS70 If you have one of these and they are really good, I might be willing to binge and get one of these: Steelseries Arctis 7 HyperX Cloud Flight Corsair Vurtoso RGB Wireless
  12. I looked again today, and I found the grey and the black version on Newegg. I don't think I'm going to ask Phanteks, because I was just curious.
  13. Hi there, this is just a random topic. The other day, I was looking at computer cases on Newegg, and I noticed that the Phanteks Evolv X was nowhere to be seen. I also looked on Amazon, and I could only find one for $577. I looked on PCPartPicker and found it for $260+. Anyone know what happened to it? Was it discontinued or something? Is Phanteks coming out with a new case to replace it? (FYI, all the prices are CAD$)
  14. So I haven't got a new PSU yet, but it is working just fine now. Since I reset the CMOS, the BIOS has been reset, and I forgot to reconfigure the BIOS (like enabling XMP), so I successfully booted into macOS without any issues (just that my RAM is running at 2133). FYI, I had a set of Corsair Vengeance LPX RAM lying around, so I tried it (before I reset the CMOS), and I wouldn't boot. It could be the RAM... Not sure. Also when I did reset the CMOS, it didn't boot up right away when I pressed the button (it didn't boot). The next morning, it booted up after a boot loop.
  15. Good news! I just tried booting this morning, this is what happened: Pressed the power button, RGB lit up and fan spin. Then it turned off and rebooted, RGB lit up and fan spin. Then nothing just the mobo's RGB was on. I pressed the power button again and it went through a boot loop a few times (I was mashing F12, for boot drives), then finally my monitor turned on and then it said that the BIOS had been reset, and then I booted into macOS through Clover. I forgot to set the BIOS settings I had, so now my RAM runs at 2133, but that's ok with me right now. Now I'm terrified to turn it off XD
  16. Here are my thoughts: For the memory, Curcial isn't the most reliable brand (they are still fine), but if possible for a good price, I would try to get Corsair or G.Skill memory. I'm guessing you are going to be using the stock Wraith Stealth cooler. If you want a better cooler (Wraith Spire), you could get the 3600X if you want. You'll probably want to get some fans for the front of the case. Either 2x 120mm or 2x 140mm. Other then that, it looks really good!
  17. I can try replacing the PSU (I'd do that first), because for a hackintosh, the mobo is quite specific. I think I'll get one of these: Seasonic FOCUS GX-850 Seasonic FOCUS PX-850 Asus ROG Strix 850G (the OEM is Seasonic) I can always return the PSU if I have the same problem.
  18. Do you think it's the mobo? FYI, I also tried putting in different RAM, but I had the same results. I think I'll open the back up and try replugging in all the power cables into the PSU, and also redoing all the power cables on the motherboard to make sure that they are all in properly.
  19. I reset the CMOS, and the same thing happened.
  20. It's a Corsair RM850x... I would be very surprised if it blew up... I'll try resetting the CMOS. There is SOME light when I flip the PSU switch on (the mobo's RGB flashes for about half a second, and it always has). Also, if I hold the power button long enough, the RAM's RGB turns on (it's G.Skill, so when sleeping, the RGB doesn't turn off unless if you are using the mobo's software to control it).
  21. I'm thinking it's the PSU or motherboard. I've got an extra GPU and RAM lying around so I think I'll try that just to see if it does anything.
  22. No fan spin. No RGB. Nothing. How do I reset the CMOS (keep in mind that I have the Ultra, not Master variation)?
  23. Currently I'm writing this from my laptop because my gaming PC/hackintosh won't boot. I tried unplugging and replugging the power into the PSU multiple times, reconnecting the power cables, etc. When it was working, I'd turn on the PSU, and press the power button, the PSU would click (it always has) and then all the RGB turns on and it get the splash screen and can go into Clover, Windows, or the BIOS. The problem with it not booting is when sometimes I would sleep the computer, then when I would try to wake it, it'd not turn on. What I would do then is try unplugging and replugging the power cord into the PSU, and fiddle with a few things and it would work, but now it doesn't. I repositioned some fans in my case earlier today, but it still worked completely fine after that. What would happen when I would flip the switch on the PSU on, (normally the motherboard lights would flash on, and they did sometimes), then press the power button, then the PSU would make a clicking noise, then nothing would happen (sometimes it would try again). I'm thinking that maybe my PSU failed or something. It is a Corsair RM850x and I have been using it since the start of the year. My current hardware is this if it makes any difference: Intel Core i7 9700K Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra Sapphire Nitro+ 5700 XT SE 32GB (2x16GB) G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3600 C16 Corsair Hydro H100i RGB Platinum SE Corsair RM850x NZXT H510i WD Black SN750 500GB (Windows) Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB (macOS) Seagate BarraCuda 4TB Fenvi T919 Wifi & BT card Sorry but this was written in a hurry if I got any spelling mistakes. I can provide any more info or a video if you need.
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