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Snarky

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About Snarky

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  1. What game specifically ? What resolution are you playing at and what are your specs?
  2. Yes, that is why he needs a new PSU and we are running out of time to get one, but I ask once again what would be better: A Chieftec smart gps-650c or a Vinga vps650G ? they are the same price , both have 80+ gold rating but Vinga has a 3 year warranty instead of the 2 year one that Chieftec has. Chieftec is a Tier B PSU with black name and the Vinga is a tier C PSU with a gold name which means it is the best PSU in the tier. Which one would you recommend?
  3. I would recommend b450 pro4 without F as it has 3 fan connectors which is sometimes enough for mATX systems or less power hungry components, if you have a fan hub both options are good.
  4. With the launch of the new Ampere GPUs my friend wants to upgrade in november from a 1650S with a 450W PSU to a 3070 .The recommended Power supply wattage for a 3070 is 650W , he doesn't know how to choose a good PSU so he asked for help. I started searching for a cheap, but pretty good PSU for him as his budget is not very big and he also wants to upgrade his CPU. I came across a Chieftec smart GPS-650C , looking at the PSU tier list it was at Tier B , I do like this PSU because: it is cheap, has 80+ Gold rating and also it is semi - modular. It is the best choice so far , my only worry is that it has a 2 year warranty and there is another PSU for the same price Which is a tier C gold name PSU and it has 3 year warranty which one would you choose, also feel free to suggest any other PSUs that would be a good choice for my friend, 100$ is the budget he has for a Power supply.
  5. Rx 580 will get bottlenecked a 1050ti or rx 570 is perfect for this job I would recommend the rx 570 if you got a powerful 500w+ power supply Also consider upgrading your cpu
  6. 1660 super for 1080p gaming
  7. The machine doesn't do anything. No beeps, LEDs or spinning fans. Check if your power cable is firmly plugged in on both ends (you would be surprised how many issues this resolves) Check if the power supply (PSU) has a button to cut the power to the machine. Check if this button is in the position denoted with ON or I Check if EVERY power cable is plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Check if the power button is installed correctly (consult your motherboard manual) Try shorting out the pins you connect the power button to manually. If this powers on your system, you have a faulty power button. Check with a device of which you know that it works if the power outlet you're using is actually providing power. If this hasn't solved the problem, check if your PSU isn't dead. To do this, you can follow these steps: Unplug your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with OFF or 0 Unplug every connector coming from your PSU (this is very important) Using a bent paperclip, short out the green wire on the 24 pin header with any of the black wires, like so. If you have a PSU that shuts down its fan under low load, or a PSU that is fanless, connect something small like a hard drive to it. Plug in your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with ON or I If the PSU does NOT power on (the fan/hard drive you connected should start spinning) after following these steps, your PSU is in all likelyhood defective. Request an RMA. If the PSU DOES power on, then the problem is most likely your motherboard. The machine does power up, but my screen remains black (no POST). Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system. Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard. Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual or this thread to see what it means. Try clearing your CMOS. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (if you don't have an iGPU, plug in your GPU as well ). Make sure your GPU works (if you have a dedicated one), try it in another computer. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard. If the PC still doesn't POST after this, create a new thread and, as explained here, post IN FULL DETAIL about your problem. Make sure you include the following: System configuration Troubleshooting steps you already did Any additional information that may be relevant. Credits to BlueScope819
  8. Planning to get a ryzen 5 2600 to get me started in pc building and I was wondering if I could get a 3600 mhz 2x8GB kit for future proofing and run it at 3200 mhz.
  9. My local stores are out of stock and i can only get a steel legend , other options: Msi b450m pro vdh or gigabyte b450m gaming
  10. I need a new MOBO to upgrade my build and i was wondering if an Asrock b450M Steel Legend would function similar to the ATX version of it or is it in a weaker tier? ( yes i know it is an mATX board with less PCI-E connectors and a SATAIII m.2).
  11. I dont need 650W+ Vinga 550W is enough for me
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