07_Sev

Here you go.

Before you jump in, do realize that 3d printing is not easy. AT ALL. You WILL have to sink a lot of time into getting to know your 3d printer inside and out. You'll have to know about a bizillion different setting that can all massively impact your 3d printer's performance. You'll also have to carefully calibrate your print so your filement sticks to the build plate and not leave an elephant's foot. This calibrating has to happen with sub millemeter precision and accuracy.\ Personally I use a creality ender 3 pro. But I reccomend watching a lot of reviews and 3d printing tutorials online first before going out to buy your own.

NGL this controller design looks super interesting. I'd love to try it but I was raised on PC so I don't really have that much analog stick experience. And the xp I do have is me being terrible at call of duty and battlefield, just longing for keyboard and mouse support on consoles. I'm also not familiar with Orbital Race. And last but not least, I live in the Netherlands. It's probaly quite costly to ship the controller to the other side of the world. Perhaps if you could go to r/ElectricalEngineering someone closer to you might want to have a look and give you excelent feedback.

A complete shutdown means you're triggering the PSU's overload protection. The average continues current listed by the manufacturers of both PSU, CPU and GPU manufacturers are just that, averages. Unfortunatly it's not that simple. Sometimes your GPU or CPU will draw way more power than it is rated for in a very short time. If your PSU can't handle that it will shut down and power off the device with it in order to protect itself and the rest of your components. Edit: Don't worry, as long as you don't have a gigabyte power supply and a powersupply from a reputable manufacturer (thermaltake is decent enough I think) your components are not at risk for blowing up. Your data is though if your disk is writing a file at the moment of the shut down. That file might be lost for ever since it couldn't complete the write.

Overclock is unstable.Lowering or disabling it should fix the issue.

You can just pick any simple speaker or buzzer and put them on the PWM pins of the arduino uno (The pins with the ~ next to them) TBH, the code here could be way more sefisticated. But have you already looked at digital kitchen timers? It looks like they will fulfill your requirements with the physical buttons and everything and is way easier, less fragile and probaly cheaper to use.

I've got the MSI 970 gaming motherboard.

I found the issue. I had a leaking capacitor near the cpu power delivery system Edit: The motherboard in question was the MSI 970 gaming motherboard.

Hello everyone, This isn't as much of a review of a single product but a long term review of msi products as a whole. I've been using MSI products since my first build about 6 years ago. I was very happy with their motherboard, their laptop and their graphics cards. However, after a couple of years of use, with proper maintenance, the products start to fall appart. First, my dad's laptop desktop replacement, which cost about 2000 euros with tax (about 2000$ excluding tax), it's screen began to fail by phisicaly seperating from the laptop. Now the only thing holding that thing together is lots of tape. Now, my desktop motherboard has failed me after only 6 years of use. their capacitors began to leak ruining the cpu performance and requiring me to replace my motherboard, memory and cpu. These problems are a sign of cost cutting on components. In the case of the laptop by not using the correct material or materialthickness in order to securely hold the screen. With the motherboard the choice was made to use less durable capacitors which start to leak after only 6 years. I've designed electronics which should hold out in way rougher environments while being powered and used for at least 12 hours a day, 7 days of the week. It doesn't cost that much more to get decent capacitors. I know people think I've used my pc for a long enough time when I use it for 6 years. But I usually use a pc for 8 to 10 years before I have to replace it, not because it broke but only because it was outdated. I have consoles with CRT's with an age of 38 and they still work fine without performance degradation. I expect non moving parts to practically work forever. I certainly won't be buying any MSI products any time soon.

Thanks for clarifying. I couldn't make that out of the forum post I saw earlier.

Hello, I'm walking against some peformance issues. First windows 10 didn't properly clock up my cpu to it's full base speed. After a regedit I mangaged to lock the clock at the base speed so turboing is gone I guess. However, now I've noticed windows taskmanager and cpu-z are both only detecting half of my actual ram speed(933Mhz. Is this normal. are there any known fixes? My setup is a AMD FX-8350 on an MSI 970 Gaming motherboard with 16gb of hyperX DDR3 RAM clocked at 1866Mhz in dual channel mode. Of course I've done some googling and I found an old post on the forums saying this was normal behaviour, which I think is quite hard to believe. If this is normal behaviour could you please verify this?

I've bought the components new in 2014 so I know they have aged. I would however expect day 1 performance since all my never maintained 38 year old vectrex still works like new and Linus has already debunked performance degradation in the following video: I do take your advice to heart though. As my financial situation has significantly worsened over the yeas I am not able to spend as much as I did on new hardware anymore. A pal of mine is willing to sell he's 1st gen ryzen 5 plus some ram for 90 euros to me and another one is willing to donate a gtx 1060 if I help him moving. When I bought my PSU i made sure it had a long warranty (8 years in my case). That just leaves a new motherboard which I can afford in a couple of months.

I run bitdefender. but this usually doesn't take up to much cpu power. for some reason, with a slight overclock a lot of the problems are fixed. though my pc now sounds like a lawnmoawer.

Also, forgot to mention, I have Linux dualbooted on my device on a completely seperate ssd.

Hello fine folks, I've got an AMD FX-8350 on a msi970 motherboard coupled with a gtx970 GPU. I've got a fresh install of windows 10 on my pc and my cpu usage is all over the place. I've already installed my anti-malware software, discord and all the nessesary game launchers. Discord uses 10-20% of my cpu recources, which I think it's quite a lot. My games also see reduced peformance from when I first got the PC. stuttering and sevire framerate drops are all to common. And I dont even play the latest game. I play titanfall 2, battlefield 4 and fortnite. all on the lowest settings except for the resolution. Fortnite even struggles at lowest settings, 1080p which I find to be quit odd for this setup. Anyone got any proposed solutions? Thanks for the advice.

I am ususally really willing to switch since my ISP is more expensive due to that reliability. My nagosiated deal is still more expensive than some competitors, however their reliability and equipment truly is amazing. That's why I usually accept to pay a bit more than the cheapest compettitor.

I know for a lot of people this is quite normal. However, the majority of people I know don't do this. For those people I make this tutorial.

DISCLAIMER: The succes of this tutorial will vary hugely from situation to situation. You might get less of a deal than I did, you might get more. It is certainly worth trying though. Even if you don't come out with as much success as me, it's probaly still a win for you. The problem: Internet is expensive, especially if you want a reliable and fast connection. ISPs don't hesetate to make a huge profit on their bandwith. Especially in the states where internet networks are almost entirely monopolised. In these difficult times we could all use less fixed charges each month, though this tutorial will work pretty much any time. The solution: To some this might be real obvious and some have probaly already done this but for a lot of folks this is new news. Call your ISP and tell them you want to switch over to a new one, or just buy a new plan and let your new provider cancel your old plan. Be prepaired to actually do it though with it as this might be the case. Do some research and look into alternatives in your area, there might be more than you think. In the states finding alternatives might be quite hard, if you can't find any competitors than unfortunatly this tutorial will come to an end here for you. Perhaps you could make a difference and set up your own network. Once your ISP has been contacted, either by you or your potential next IPS, your current ISP will call you or put you through to a customer retention representative. At this stage, whatever you do, be nice! These people get enough flak thrown their way. Make sure they like talking to you, this will give them more insentive to genuanly help you. Tell them you want to switch because of prefirebally pricing or if thats not an option some other issue. They will than probaly give you a non-advertised offer. If they don't remeber to BE NICE. Usually their first offer isn't the best offer they can do so be hasitant. Perhaps you want to think about it a little longer. Perhaps their compatitor is still cheaper. They usually give you a second, better offer. This is where I usually bite. They might give you a 3rd offer but I always take the 2nd. My results: My original situation was that I paid 60+ Euros for 200MB/s down reliable internet. I state reliable because that is the main selling point of the ISP I connect to, and boy, do they deliver. My first time when they tried to increasy my monthly pricy by about 2 euros, I used this tactic and it got me a monthly discount of 10 euro's per month for an entire year, after which I could cancel again. So when my price shot back up to 62 euros, I decided to cancel again. This time, I saved 10 euros a month by downgrading my internet package since I have an internal bottlenack which caps me at 100MB/s. Aditionally they offered me a discount of 15 euros a month for 10 months if I sayed for another year. This would avarage out to 12.50 euros a month, or 150 euros a year. Other sources: This guy makes great videos btw and wears LTT merch. Can Linus hire him already? He would be a great second Luke. Unfortunatly he's been quiet for a very long time. Ending statement: Results will differ per case but usually if you don't get a great deal, you still know where you might a different place where you can get internet for less money. Switching from provider almost always saves money.

No, heatpipes evaporate a liquid and move the gas to be converted. My goal is to have the liquid cycling around and carrying the majority of the heat since a liquid has more hea capacity than a gas.

Wow cool, I can't think of an LTT video to cover this subject exactly but if they could try to DIY it I think that would be a great video. Perhaps for lower powered systems?

I don't think this is the thing I had in mind. This cooling system evaporates a liquit to be converted to a liquid again in the radiator. Which is kinda like a heat pipe. My idea is to take conventional water cooling and have the liquit remain liquid or perhaps to turn some of the liquit into a gas to speed up the liquid.

Hey guys, I was just reading a threat about a passive water cooling loop where the only active part would be the pump. This got me thinking, would it be possible to have a water loop with no active parts at all? The theory is fairly simple, any liquid becomes less dense as it heats up, less dense materials rise to the top and denser materials sink to the bottom. This could create a loop of a heating part and a cooling part where the water circles around. I think it is possible if the shape of the loop is changed from a traditional loop where a pump takes care of water cycling to a shape where gravity can do all of the work. The question will remain whether there will be enough flow through the system for adiquate cooling. I haven't seen this idea tested yet in the limited time I had to search. I think this is at least worth a CAD simulation. Perhaps an LTT video? Do you guys have any experience with this concept? -Sev

Hello, I am thinking about building a plex server I've already got an old but capable cpu, motherboard, GPU, RAM and power supply. I am still looking for a good long term storage solution. This isn't my first plex server I build. I've used old used server hardware before to run my own getto plex server however this hardware didn't survive for a long time (about 3 to 6 months). All my storage failed and now I have to go through the process of ripping all of my blu rays again. I've been thinking, since SSDs are solid state storage, they wouldn't wear out like a harddrive would when there is no data being written to it. So in theory they could remain operational for a longer time. However, SSDs are way more expensive and since I have a pretty sizable blu ray collection I will need a lot of storage (at least 3 TB). Do you think it is worth it to pick an SSD for data storage or should I pick an HDD now and wait for SSDs to become cheaper?

I don't see datacaps as a big problem for the future. For now: Yes, in north America it might be an issue, however time will probably pull down prices. When I looked at a local advert from 9 years ago it was promoting the big deal of unlimited mobile calls for only 40 euro/month. Now, You can have unlimited calls, texts and practically unlimited 4g internet for nearly half of that. That's the innovation we're seing in europe. I don't know how quickly Americans can follow. Perhaps you should advocate for the abolishment of datacaps as bandwith really is very cheap.

Yeah, at the moment, nobody buys 4k blu rays for the 4k resolution because we all know most VFX are rendered in 2K. At the moment most people buy 4k blu rays for the HDR and bitrate improvements. Many 4k blu rays also come with a better audio track which is weird as the older blu rays can also handle Dolby Atmos and DTSX just fine.